Creating Pixie Waves Hair Tutorial - How To Style A Wavy Pixie

I enjoyed scarpe, see here co-founder of the harebrained community on a really big weekend in New York City. It'S hva six weekend where we'll be giving out our awards and a fabulous show on Sunday night, but before we get to that, we've got some great education coming up today and I think we've got a few more over the weekend. We'Re starting off at a high with Naja, hey Naja, hey great, and this is her beautiful model. Naima say I'm Ava, not just gon na, be sharing something that we always get incredible: feedback about. It'S working to create a waving texture and, in this case just using traditional, somewhat traditional Flatirons, but at different sizes. So this is something whenever we post this on Instagram or Facebook, and we show the process of creating wave and texture on short hair people go Gray's crazy about it. Naja is really well-known for this technique and we'll talk about her salon in Atlanta and how you know: they're successful with this type of styling and really get to know all about that. But let's learn the technique right off the bat from Naja creating waves on a pixie hi. Well, let's see to do this. This is like the best haircut to have. First of all, it's so super easy, but a lot of times. You know women still want to look soft. Pixie haircuts are um, you know. Sometimes they could look hard depending on how they're cut and if they're buzzed off and that kind of thing, but I use an iron and I'm gon na start just with the a really good hot iron, which is my h2 Pro I don't know. So. That'S super tiny. Let'S see this is it's just 3/10 right. That'S the yeah 310! So you're gon na hold your head down and is other. Are the are the the plates? Are they rounded a little bit? Are they totally that's perfect yeah? So what I'm doing is gon na create a back-and-forth curl that actually will sit almost like in a wave. So it's gon na add so much texture to this hair and the key is like having see how we're creating remember how we used to have to create those waves in school in cosmetology school, a finger wave finger waves, but with it you get a big gallon Of gel - oh my god, you remember that in there and you slap it on and you have yes but we're gon na do this with look how beautiful that is, we're creating this with I iron alright, so it looks like you're working across the head, almost diagonally Across the top yes and you're, taking very fine sections with the tail comb, yes and then with this special that now I'll get them to get the name right. This is the h2 h3 10th Black Diamond iron. So is this the smallest one? This is the smallest one is very tiny for these kind of pixie haircuts, and you must have enough product on this here. In order to create these waves perfectly, I know you're you're, going in different directions with each one. Is it like left right, left right, yeah? It'S like left right, yes, it is back and forth. So one goes one way and the other one comes in another direction, but you're thinking you have to think of a wave as you're doing it. You have to you know, just keep a wave in mind because that's what you're creating like the river right like the river, that's where cuz the name of the salon? Yes, that's your salon in Atlanta we'll talk about that. But first we have a few questions. So yeah Liz Bumgardner is wondering why styling product you use and is it important you were talking already about how important the product is, but let's review well on on these to get this hair to slip like make it very slip and back and forth. So in SHINee we use our signature de oil and I use a little bit of the TG wax tick. I have to say and admit, but our signature product is the de-oiled. This is your own. This is our. This is our always like this one here. Yes, amber yeah, that's it that's the expression, your product, that is our product, where you can get it on our website at like the river calm, but that's made of grapeseed oil base. It has lavender rosemary lemongrass and it's a base. Wonderful, it's amazing, and it's creating this. The slickness in the hair, of course, the shine as well. Another question coming in from Chantel Cox is named as hair relaxed. She is relaxed, she's, relaxed, um texture is key and critical as a hairdresser. You need to know the difference between textures and what the hair can do and can't do. A lot of our clients are always asking. Oh, can I get the waves you know? Waves are really popular with our salon and that's what we're really known for in short hair, but you got ta know. Texture texture is key to determining whether a client can actually wear this style, so yeah she's, relaxed and in general. You know. Do you? Do you think relaxers have come a long way? I can remember, I have pretty curly hair and I remember as a teenager, relaxing my hair and even throughout my life of how to relax at different points, and I would just get a little like lifeless, but I feel, like things have gotten so much fun. Oh, my god, so much better. I mean we're not doing what we did years ago and the scalps are falling off a lot. I was gon na bring that up the first time I did it. I made it myself in high school, I put so much Revlon extra extra. Oh my go to a professional cosmetologist. Who knows how to keep you safe, yeah a lot of times we get because we're doing this stuff at home. That'S why most of it we had a lot of issues with the relaxers, but now today we don't have those price yeah. I learned and that's why I said you know what maybe I should go to school and become a professional. Do this right Wow. So we have a great question from Mike Adam Turpin: do you do a foam set first? It says yeah he's pretty comfortable with the top, but has a hard time on the shorter areas in the perimeter. Okay, so we do a foam set. We use a foam and you can use a foam of your choice. You can use a mousse or a foam to really get this hair slick and smooth. So everything that you see like laying down like this, it's um, we molded her first and then put her under the dryer for about 30 minutes, and so this is gon na, create that smooth and really it's gon na help your styling. You know this is Keith. Actual mold is key to your styling, so we want to get her molded and under the dryer. So that's gon na be a little time, though clients you know clients on they don't like sitting under the dryer. Okay. Can we talk about booking and charging? You know now. Naja owns a salon so she's doing this day in day out. This isn't just for the camera as a really busy clientele and really known in Atlanta is one of the top salons and tell us about that, and then also tell us about the practicality. So if Naima was your client and how often would you come in for a haircut which you should come in for a styling once a week? How do you book it? How do you charge for it so all that stuff that maybe a lot of people don't know exactly what to do right? Well, Naima would be we do we specialize in a lot of short hair, so you know what they come more often than your color clients. They come home often, then your longer hair clients, because shorty air grows pretty fast and it has to be maintained and outlined. So she would be like a weekly, I would say, a weekly client that will come in for shampoo styling. We may do a partial relaxer on her. Let'S talk about that for a minute, because this is a huge business point. If you've got a weekly clientele, I mean and you've got. Let'S just say some of them don't come in all the time, but if you've got 65 people that are like diehard dedicated to you and most of them are coming in weekly yeah you're done you're like busy all the time. Right is the all the time. If you're, just you know you, the average hairdresser that doesn't have weeklies needs, like 400 coins in their book to be busy all the time right. Yes, it's a whole different world. When you have weekly clients, you also have to build deeper relationships. I think we yeah sometimes our clients. We have clients that come in twice a week. Well, with this short hair, so yeah I mean they've got to maintain it and I wouldn't say it's like a high maintenance. However, you know women want to look great with short hair. You know now. How would you book for this? Is this a 45-minute point? Man is it out because I know there's a priest, sad like a Ralphie. This is me probably about an hour and a half should be in the salon total an hour now about how I have max max. She just comes in to get a shampooed and styled she'd have to go into the dryer. The dryer proper is the most the longest time she's, so you kind of like wrapped the booking she comes in, sees you or an assisting shampoos. Her you do some kind of you do like the setting first, those drawers. Maybe you work on somebody else yeah, while she's under the dryer, then I've got my next one coming in that I need to wrap. My shampoo assistant will shampoo her and get her all ready for me to mold and molding is key yeah, a lot of love coming in here, our timer and over again perfect, beautiful, yes, Kim thanks for he left for the love. Jacinta is wondering about the heat on the iron and also, if you can tell us where the iron is from everything you can about that iron. Well, this is an h2 Pro iron and actually, if you are a hairdresser and you're gon na be in town in New York this weekend - oh my god, you got to go to IBS and get this iron. This is an h2 Pro. It is a three tenth inch and I'm sure they have a huge variety of sizes. Yes, they have a huge variety but for to create this wave look. This is the one that you need and you need to be careful. Please don't burn your clients either. So any tips with that, because I mean obviously that hair there is that's, maybe less than an inch, long you're taking a baby flowing section. How do you get in there without burning um practice? It'S all practice. You know no trick. It'S just go get skill and you just cannot burn your client up. I'Ve had I thought. Can I just say this that I had a client come in. She was like I stopped going to my last hairdresser because every week she burned me with what they iron. Now, let's talk about about charge, cost now I know you're in Atlanta, a major metropolitan city. You know how do you price something like this and you know what's the range so to speak, someone can charge this particular style, um anywhere between 65 and 75 dollars. For the shampoo style, sometimes with waving since a lot of people come in, we do charge a little extra, because this is like technical. So we're really trying to create a look, and this is almost like a style. You know just a creative style, so it does take longer and we do charge them a little extra now, as you work your way down into these shorter hairs, all the waving go in the same direction or you know it's gon na go back going left to Right so that yes, we're gon na create that whole. You can see it in here very detailing sorry, yeah there you go and sometimes I'll, stop right now, like I'm gon na, not stop, but I'm gon na put more product on really quick. What made you know that it was time to put more product, because I, like this hair to just gloss, I see a couple of flyaways that may have gotten loose, and so I feel like this needs to kind of get really tapered and smoothed over using a Little bit of oil, why is it called D oil? Oh, it's a delightful, delicious, the gorgeous, really it has a it has a really meaningful reason behind it. It'S actually named after my sister that passed away about five years ago, she had came down with a rare cancer and the first thing my sister was a professional in New York. She worked in New York and advertising and she her first thing was like. I don't want to lose my hair, and so I said well, you got to start using grapeseed oil, because grapeseed oil is gon na save your hair, it's a good product that they put in a lot of like hair growth and hair loss products. So we started doing some research, she started using it and when she passed away she had all of her hair on her head. So we named dutiful story, we came up and we just named it after her, it's nice to see there's so much meaning. Even you know in your product, you know which is to you. Yes, let's talk a little bit about your background, because I was thrilled to learn that you started your career with one of my hair heroes, Vann Council, at the Van Michaels in Atlanta - oh my god, but out there it does it no fan council. You should follow him. You should check out that model. I have a signature line that I always say about Van. He is the best salon owner in the world. That means the happiest staff, the busiest business he makes a ton of money and some of the people that work for him and he's just happens to be a great person. You started your career there. So let's talk a little bit about that yeah. I started out as a hair salon assistant. You know I just always had a passion for hair, so I'm like I've got to go, find the best place to work in so it was in Buckhead in Atlanta. I was actually working in corporate at the time going. Teas, what I mean by corporate you, weren't, a hairdresser, you didn't start hairdressing at young age or well yeah, I would say, like 7 years old, you know I was doing my all my sisters of all the family stuff and then one day I just kept like. I was used to keep a journal so anyway, I started working corporate corporate America was like boring hated it. So I found a salon while I was going to take hair school at night and I found a salon to work in and it was Van Michel in Buckhead, and I learned so much just from being an assistant that I was like. You know what this is. Gon na be my career, I just loved a consistency, the professionalism, everything that everything that you know van stands for in his business, which you said he's the greatest salon owner in the world, and I wanted to create when I was there something for african-american salons and That was my truth and I was like we've got. We don't have salons like this. That looked like this and I'm like why, and so I went on my search. Your perception was that they needed to be like an upgrade. There was needed to be an upgrade in the industry, particularly towards african-american salons, and feel that it's evolved more, oh for sure, and I really honestly feel that I've led that way. We'Ve owned our salon. For ten years, I've had a lot of stylists come through, and I've gotten a lot of write-ups about how great the salon is and professional. What was that point of difference? What did you feel me to be added? Because you know we know there was a lot of great hairdressing going on there husband forever yeah. What what did you feel that the salon needed upgrading in um professionalism? We need hairdressers need to come to work on time right, and this is the same every, but they needed to be more professional. They need to take this more serious. This is a career. This is a lifestyle and not just your gig. You know when you have to party - and you just come to start doing here, so I I came from that corporate background, so I wanted to incorporate that from learning advantage. What did you do in the corporate world? I was, oh, my god, insurance adjustor, perfect. Alright, alright! Well, you take what you learned there yeah with creative hairdressing, put it with what you learned from Van ray and now you've got this incredibly successful salon like the river in Atlanta, yeah, fantastic yeah. There'S a question coming in from Corey Elizabeth she's wondering how long did it take you to come up from being an assistant to owning your own salon? You know when I started in 2005, I got my license. I opened my salon in 2008, so we quick, you were quick three years. I think, because I always had the passion for it. I think that's why I always talk to hairdressers I'll, be at leading, ladies and I'm talking about at IBS this weekend. Talking about so, let's leading ladies there's a panel of women in the industry that are doing things making moves, do incredible things and you're on that panel Monica. I don't even heard that so that's awesome yeah. So I am so. I went three years like three years. Was my Maxim because I because I loved it so much that it just came to me very quickly - I started building a great clientele and - and I opened my salon Nadja - this is looking beautiful. It'S just so effortless the way that you kind of create that texture and movement anybody watching at home. If you have questions for nausea, about the technique about her career butter salon about the business, I think there's a lot of really interesting things to talk about. I bring up something that is a little controversial, but I bring it up a lot and I think that the hair industry and churches are the only two things that are still segregated yeah. I think that there are black salons and white salons and I think that they're, you know, and I got the church thing from Kia. We were working together, cuz, you know, kids, she said. Churches are still like that to them. I said you know. Maybe right not. I think it's a terrible thing because, just from being a pure businessman like if I had maybe twenty percent of my client was a african-american twenty foot, imagine the standing appointment side. You can make more much to talk about business. You can make more money and all it comes down to is education, education. That'S all! I'M learning I've now seen people do variations of this technique over the past year a couple times, I'm learning how to do it. I definitely is something that I can add to my skill set. It doesn't matter what color you are, you can do. Any hair texture, hair hair is hair and you can learn it. You can learn texture. I think you know we were just talking about that and you have to keep yourself educated and I've got to think it starts on school level too. You know we don't think that some of us don't think that we can do Caucasian here and then yeah, but knowledge destroys feel. Like my good buddy DJ said it's like. I sat with you and I took a class with you and you taught me this and I did it with my hands and you showed me right. I think I could learn how to do this. You know right sure you can easy easy. The pixie wait actually looks fantastic. I mean it's just I've seen a couple versions of this, but something about yours just looks so much more organic. Ah I think yeah like as I look at it on the screen. It doesn't look so forced Wow. Is it because the way you undulate back and forth, or it's the back and forth it's the size of the iron to really get in there? The heat of the iron, it's all of those combinations, but also it's that risk. You know it's it's the power of that wrist and then what you're using a lot of tension or is it very gentle, it's kind of gentle, very gentle and the kasnian convex, or the convex concave, yeah, concave and also the product it's the product. You should have product in your hand, see how that shine is just really not like on the ridge yeah. Yes, question coming in from Tiffany Kay, how is this look maintained? Is it something that my Eva can maintain at home? I always sleep what you do yeah. I told my clients to sleep on a silk pillowcase: that's all they need to do. You don't have to wrap it. No, no wrapping wrapping will destroy the hair and then is there anything that she would need to do in the morning specifically or some product. Now, as it goes like it's nice and place, so she was going to an evening event or wedding. This is like perfect hair. However, if she wants to get a little rock and roll with it a couple days later, she could just kind of push this up with a little wax stick and just make it really kind of messy. So to have a lot of texture, but it'll still be in that weight you want to get around so example. What'S looking on her face just those little bits that you did on the front, hairline yeah to the next level, and then that's that's really important. I'M going to show you just a couple little details on how to keep it. This is my wax stick that I like to use. That'S the TG! That'S that GG! Yes, so just shine! Some love here showing a Brundage, says, seamless, beautiful work. Felisha Wimbush says you do beautiful work. Thank you so much beautiful. We see that word coming in a lot, which is obvious. There was a question: what is the name of the oil you've been using? Oh, that's the de-oiled, that's our D aisle which you can get on our website and like the river comm and that's the name of your signature like the rivers, our salon name, and you can get that oil right from there and these details will help with, like The wax stick will really help with really defining, and I like to just turn it a little bit in the mirror to see beautiful. Oh beautiful, can we talk just a little bit about cutting because we were talking earlier. I know you trained that van Michael, you said: you've been to Sassoon, so yeah you've learned some real great precision cutting. What'S your philosophy with cutting hair in general, do you work dry? Do you work wet to dry, like what are some of your tips again back to that fear factor if someone maybe has never cut african-american, hair or relaxed hair and someone comes in and they sit in their chair like what are some tips to get started because To me, cutting is cutting. If you understand shape, you can figure it all out, but then there's these little things should i do. Should i straighten it and kind of dry should i do why? What are your thoughts, sometimes when you're moving hair around you know, I? I have this thing where the hair speaks to me, so I kind of work basically organically. I think when you get a lot of textured hair, you definitely have to make sure it's smooth, smooth finishing on textured hair is so key, so my cutting, I usually cut on dry hair turn. I usually cut on dry hair and that way, I'm able to see it. So if there's a relaxer, you tend to you'll kind of smooth that hair out maybe do like a wrap or use an iron right and then cut the shape. But you know they're not if they're not relaxed, definitely have to get them straight. First, we have to smooth them somehow that straightening or if their hair is enough. Texture, that's soft enough to wave and go under our mold and put under the dryer, but you definitely have to straighten out textured hair first in order to start cutting and doing anything on it. So I like to cut dry and then so that way I can really see what's happening when you cut a real, precise shape when it's dried you cut like Club cut. No, I got actually no, I just kind of go in and kind of outline and then once I mold and because normally I do short hair all short hair. I don't really get anybody coming into me for long hair, I'm known for that. So once I get the outline in I'll mold her and get her under the dryer to get it really straight, and then I go back in and start really perfecting my lines and honey. Alright, so again, lots of love coming in Juliet heroine is wondering. If name is, hair is relaxed, she is relaxed. I think we establish that it was wrong. She'S, relaxed, um and she's got a beautiful. She could probably go natural but she's so so short and a lot. We get those questions all the time I'm natural can. I go short and most times you know it just depends on the texture. You need a consultation to see you know, clients are always talked about. I don't want to relaxer. I I want to stay natural, but to be this to have this look. Sometimes you need an assessment. You need to see whether that's going to work, because the hair will just either puff back up or you'll revert quickly. Age goes exactly it'll revert. If you do all this work and she was excited and it's done and it's done. Yeah Donna Braun says she fell in love. With this look, I love your passion for textured, hair and whatever eyes, can you give for a stylist who wants to open a salon for natural hair? What advice do I give mm-hmm you need to practice. You need to learn textured hair. You would have to just understand hair texture getting in there, knowing what the hair can do and what it won't do. I think it's more needed to, but I think those those are on like school levels. You got to learn in school, but practice on some textured hair. You can do it. I think those are natural. Hair salons are needed more. We have some, but I think it's so again. If you people are familiar with that terminology, that means like unrelaxed hair right. Maybe that's not straightened kind of treated more natural right. We'Ve got our great friend the monocot she's kind of known for doing stuff like right, and you know there's even so, there's something for everyone. You I'd say do something that you really love right. You know. So I'm here exactly that's right, like Mona, helps people maybe transition from relaxed back to natural. It just made a big business on that. You know. She'S got a way of cutting and way of talking to people right. You know where you're working very often with relaxed hair, but also natural, I'm assuming right, and I work with yeah, but I work with both alright. So again, if you can tell us about the iron is lots of questions. What is it, and where can people get it? It is an h2 pro iron and they have it at the IBS hair show this weekend here in New York City here in New York. You can also get it at Beauty, live.com right. That'S the the website, Beauty life.com, you can get this, but this is an h2 Pro 3/10 inch, it's very small and it's a concave, but it works amazing and there's. I think this one goes to 450, yes, and just because the irons go to 450, that doesn't mean you need to take it to 450. What what he did show you assess the texture in the sometimes. You can burn that here, a lot of times. Clients are burning their hair out even stylist. I have to say here: dresses are burning, but you need to just just because it goes with or 350 450 doesn't mean take it. So I could have a setting for about 3 or 4 425. You know, because I want this to really have a nice polished. Look, so it looks like you've got it all in now, you're doing some detail. Let'S get some action on the crown here. I'M gon na bring you around this way. So it looks like you were. Just kind of going through there and doing some detail work, we're looking for I'm looking for any holes or spaces that might be here and want more detail. I want more shine, see if I take this iron and go over one more time on it. It gives a amazing shine, and it's very quite sometimes I like to kind of mess it up. I'M like you, know more product in the hand you can never have too much product on like a set like this waves need oil. Is there any type of product you wouldn't recommend using for this gel crispy, it's gon na look hard and plastered to it. We don't want that. Look, we want something super thought and it's very sexy do not use the job, no job. Looking beautiful and again just an incredible display of craftsmanship and technique - and you know when you come in, you see: you've got a model with hair an inch and shorter and I'm thinking. Okay. Well, what's gon na happen here? What'S the lesson and look at how much magic was done here and that's all testament to being a craft hair, dresser working beautifully with the hands, and I have to say I've seen this technique done quite a few times, but this is probably the most beautiful version. I'Ve seen so there's, obviously something special about the way that you do it here. So what are you seeing there? You just see a little dryness, so I'm gon na get my wax stick. I just want it to be more polished and I'm just gon na take a little bit of stick and then I'm gon na take where those areas are way up with the stick, I'm going to get the iron and get more smoothing and more polished. So you didn't feel like it. The wave was defined enough. I didn't feel like it was like seen that see that piece it so now it's like more slip and slick and shiny, and that's the look that we want to create, and it's very detailed. You know this is really a detailed situation here, Nigel watching you want to follow you and learn more from you. What'S a good way for them to to follow you yeah Instagram, Facebook, yeah asses. Yes, I have I'm on Instagram Nyjah like the river. Our salon is like the river salon on Instagram and I actually teach Emma I'm an educator in the industry. I teach my techniques ie. These waves Kelly cuts, the braids. I'Ve come up with some amazing things that kind of went viral, and so we give classes all the time and right now we have a class scheduled in New Orleans for the branagh brother weekend show that's going to be Monday April 1st and we're going to be At ringlet salon in the French quarters at the Hilton Hotel - and it's going to be amazing, so they can register at beauty beyond the hair, calm. Well, that sounds great, a class in New Orleans, so yeah a time while you're there. Oh my god, a lot yeah. So that's on April 1st, in New Orleans April 1st, it's a Monday, that's a full-day class, no, it's from 10:00 to 2:00! Thank you, yeah 10:00 to 2:00, and what could people expect to learn? They'Re gon na learn a perfect pixie cut and also the Kelly cut, and they can look at my website, but what's a kilocalorie, the Kelly cut. Is this crazy cut my wife's name Kelly? So, oh, my god, it's beautiful! So it's look. If you look at it looks like a mohawk, but it's it's very technical and how I reached the cut. It was lots of diagonal cutting. We basically take all the sides off. We leave all of this hair, so it's like got diamond in the back and a diamond in the front graduation, and so you look like you have a tail. These are for the women who don't want to have really commit to short hair, but they have all this short underneath, which is amazing, fun and edgy. It'S fun and edgy. I even did a Kelly cut challenge on a women viral viral. Like all the styles - and I was posting all their work, also all their Kelly cuts, so yeah awesome. Well, I think this is looking fantastic and Naima looks even more beautiful than you started any finishing words now, as you start to kind of finish up, your look. Um, I just think that you know find your niche. You know, I think I found it in short hair, and this is what I love, and I think this is what I'm most great at. I don't try to master everything and be a master of all things. I find I do things that make me happy and satisfied, and this short hair is one that I love dearly so well. I want to thank you for joining us. I'M sure you got a busy weekend ahead of you in New York and it went out there about hva six, it's officially sold out, but if you're joining us, it's gon na be a great party. It'S on Sunday night here in New York City, if you're in town from the IPS, I hope you'll be joining us. I want to thank Naja. I want to thank my EEMA beautiful model, fantastic lesson here: peace out guys, we've got another HP live later on today, with Lupe Voss, we'll be down with the Aveda Institute, doing some color, so you got nothing going on around five o'clock East Coast time. We'Ll see you then thank you and giving you so much.