How To Cut A Pixie Haircut With A Long Layered Bang | Matt Beck Vlog #017

All right guys, so I'm back at the vlog today, sorry about yesterday we were at IBS New York and I tried to put together something that would be a tad bit exciting for you guys - and I just I found nothing so, but I did get some great Interviews so those will be coming up, but I don't want to put those out today. I got a lot more work to do with those and they were for American salons, we're both going to put them out at the same time, but some really really cool interviews coming up now. Today'S vlog we're gon na focus on a another pixie cut and this actually was requested. So let me show you: it was Meghan Alexander on our free salon, education, Facebook page, so she posted on there. She wanted to see this cut, so I'm gon na show you guys actually, let's put that right there, real quick, so that was a requested cut. So I wanted to do an interpretation of that. This is the end result of our cut. The big thing with this is it: I went through a lot of different techniques, so we're going to do some round layering throughout the sides. Some disconnection in the top - and I think another key thing about this haircut - is the short layers that happen throughout the top section, the mohawk section of the haircut. So this is similar to some of the pixie cuts. I'Ve done, but I think what you guys will take away from it is the techniques that we shift and switch as we move about the head shape so hope you guys like it. Let'S get started with our step-by-step post in the comments you guys have been doing. Such an awesome job of letting me know how you're feeling about the vlog the more feedback I get, the better. I can do the vlog, so I'm glad you're like in the head sheets and all that so we're gon na keep adding that in. Let'S get started. Alright, so we're gon na start off. The key to this haircut is the triangle that we're putting on the top. So the right hand. Side of the triangle is where her part is, so you want to make sure you have that right nailed exactly where she's going to be parting it and then the rest of it comes across the top of the head riding above the parietal Ridge. I like to cut this part of the triangle a little bit high, because that's going to be the undercut portion where the heavy part is going to fall over is that was me if I want to remove extra weight from underneath that that disconnection I can. So you don't want that triangle to be too wide on the top, so starting in the back we're working a vertical section. We start off by graduating the hair, keeping it below 90 degrees coming straight out or straight back from towards me and then, as I work down the head shape, I'm working at 90 degrees coming straight out from the head. All right so you'll see my finger angle shift as I work down the head. That'S allowing me to keep that 90 degree of angle because the head shape is moving and that's you know I I preach this all the time, but it's really important to be aware. The entire time you're cutting hair of what the head shape is doing, because that affects the outcome of the density and the whether you're graduating whether you're layering and all of that so coming straight out from the head and then once I get to this corner now, I'M going to start to it will turn it into more over direction because I'll directing it back to me not fully back, but just slightly back to the previous section as I work through the into this corner, because I'm cutting more of a pixie cut and not A bob and bob you want to preserve length so you'll over direct it further back to preserve that length behind the ear, because we all know that the the density gets smaller behind the ear when you're cutting a pixie cut you're going to have those holes. That'S part of what a pixie cut is, so you don't have to over direct it as far back and worry about creating that hole because you're going to do it anyways now what I'm really doing here, I'm create. So I took a diagonal forward parting and I'm creating a connection point from the front in the back. So I take a little bit of the back. I connect it to the front I cut diagonal forward and now I'm going to work through the back and connect all those points together, working vertically palm to palm right here in the back and just working my way around the head shape. So we talked about the importance of working vertically and working horizontally in a haircut when you work vertically you're working with more of the weight in your hands, so you're working on elevation. So as I work through the crown area of this haircut, I just want to make sure that my elevation is where I want it to be, because I want the shape of the haircut to just hug the crown of the head. Now, as I work into the temple area, I'm working more of a horizontal diagonal forward and what that's allowing me to do is work a little bit with the elevation. But majority is with my finger angle and creating that shape in the front. So I want to add a little extra weight around the cheekbone, so my finger angle is a little bit more out and you can see how that pushes that extra weight towards the front now we're going to go through vertically. I want to work on top of my fingers at this point. The reason we're going vertical now is because I want to remove extra weight so we're working on weight control again, not so much shape. This is underneath the disconnection. So this is the important part of wanting to remove as much weight as possible throughout the top of the haircut, so sectioning vertical slight diagonal back through through the top of the head here, and this is the parietal Ridge. So this is the big round of the head and I think where a lot of people would make a mistake is having their elevation too low and not layering at this point, just pulling it straight out from the head and it turns into more of a graduation. So make sure that you have that elevation, nice and high as you work through now, I'm going to work diagonal back and just round off this corner. So when I was going through vertically, I was pushing the weight forward. So I just want to soften the corner of this haircut, because this is where the disconnection is going to fall over. So I don't need all that weight push to the front because there's going to be weight coming off of that top triangle, section anyways! So we'll just work until there's no hair left, I'm not following the head shape, I'm just over directing it to the front to more of a stationary guide in the front and that cleans it up there. Now I'm going to go through little scissor over comb just to tighten it up, that's really more of a cross-checking thing and just making sure that everything melts together then we're going to go around the ear. This is where that diagonal forward cutting horizontally kind of comes into play, because we pushed all that weight to the temple area and the sideburn area. So now I can go in and just customize what I want it to look like a rounder ear. Now we're going to do the same thing on the opposite side, starting vertically, creating that graduation to begin with and then working layering all the way down the difference you're going to see now is that my hand is facing down. That'S a comfort thing for me to make sure that I can comb. I'M always combing that new hair into my guideline. You don't want to comb your guideline into the new hair that will just shift your guide. It'Ll make your guide shorter and then you'll end up with one side of the haircut longer than the other, so just make sure that you're always combing your new section into your guideline. Keeping your guideline where it is the whole purpose of a guide is that it should be exactly where you cut it, and the new hair should go to that. So you can see my finger angle shift to kind of come in that's to keep with the head shape to keep it at 90 degrees. We'Re rounding off that corner slight over direction back not too much and then working that diagonal forward section. So what I left in here was I wanted to show you guys that the first time I cut this part right here around the ear. I left it a little bit longer, so I comb it. I take a look at it. Make sure that it's where I want it to be, and if it's not, then I shift it a bit. This is then I'll I'll. Look at the other side make sure that they match up. You want to go through it. Not everything is cut the exact way you need it to be on the first round so going through making those details, work, checking your work throughout the haircut and just making sure that you have everything the length that you want it now that I have my guideline Cut now I'll move forward, cutting diagonal forward just into the temple area and then once I get about an inch up, then I'm going to start working the diagonal back, so you can see I'm not taking a lot of hair at a time. I really want to see that guide as I cut, and if you don't see your guide, then you definitely need to reek home and regrab a more guide in your hair. You should have normally in a haircut about 60 % guide, maybe even 70 % guide to 30 % new hair. Now we're going to work back, I'm working a rounded section, diagonal back. This is different than the other side, a little bit on. The reason that this is different is I wanted to cut this shorter, because this is the exposed side and what I liked about the haircut was that the extreme disconnection from the right side and the left side, so the top triangle is going to fall to the Opposite direction of this, so I wanted to get a nice clean, rounded shape off the face feel to this part of the haircut so I'll just go through them following the head shape, cutting it 90 degrees, nice and short, and just working on my elevation around there. So now we're going to take down the top comb it out. This had a previous haircut on it, so you can see how there's a longer side and the shorter side we're going to cut all that off, so we're going to work a stationary guide. So that's what I'm going to work on right now. I want to connect the points in the back, so the tip of that triangle that we created will be where we cut our guide and then everything's going to come directly back to that point. So that's going to push as much weight as possible to the front of the head, but creating short layers on the tops. I think that's what made this haircut stand out from a lot of the other ones that I've done that are shorter. Hair cuts is the fact that it has these short layers throughout the entire top, and then the very very front is the long disconnected point. So, just creating that disconnection getting as much weight as we can in the front. So then we can go in with a dry cut and cut into that later. You'Ll notice, how many times I kind of screw that's! I just want to make sure that I get every little piece combed up in there, so we don't miss anything. Now we're going to go through we're going to blow-dry with our comb at first. So I'm going to blow-dry all of the short parts with my comb and then I go in my ergo paddle brush and then I blow-dry the top and we got our vibratory iron. We iron it out and that's pretty much the finish for that. Then a little scissor over comb in the back just to connect everything together, just make sure it's nice and polished. You don't need a lot of that work in there and then we're going to go through and detail the sides. So I'm using my Mizutani, it's a six and a half inch solid scissor, it's one of the newer scissors from Mizutani. I love this scissor because it has a ton of power in it. It also has the ball bearing screw and as so as I'm working, it's got a nice smooth, open and closed to it and it's really hard to find a six and a half inch scissor. That has enough power in the tip. To really do this kind of detail work so I'll work, this scissor with my scissor over comb and the detail work around the edges. You can see. I keep that steady blade as much as possible against the skin, and then I open and close throughout there. Now we're moving in this is my Mizutani Puffin scissor. This is a dry cutting scissor that I use anytime, I'm pretty much cutting dry and doing this type of detail work, it's a five and a half inch scissor and I'm working those short layers. So this is, I did slide cutting through the top we're going to do a little bit more in a second now, I'm doing some point cutting taking those horizontal sections, so just softening the shape. So I take a horizontal parting. I lift it up over direct it. Nice and high and just soften the shape now more slide cutting because what I loved and when I said earlier, I love all the short layers in the top of this haircut and then how it gets disconnected long in the front. So just go through as much slide cutting as you feel and how much density your guest has that's how much you're going to do so. I just keep going through until I feel like I got the shape exactly where I want it and then a little bit more slide, cutting in the front just to piece out that bang area soften that you can see the disconnection through there and all of the Texture and movement, and now go in with the Rakata call irv, which i use on all short haircuts. I love this products. Nice lightweight cream, wax it's going to give me all that texture that I want. So I just kind of slicked back the the one side to show off that round: layering and then mess up the front in the top to show off the texture and the layers on the top, and that is our end result. Alright guys, like always, if you like this video, make sure that you share it with your friends, hit the like button and I sure you're subscribed to our YouTube channel. If you haven't done so already, because we're putting out videos every day at 10 a.m. thank you guys so much for checking us out and we'll see you next time.