Crochet Messy Bun Beanie | Free Crochet Pattern

Hi guys and welcome back to my channel, my name is Ashley and I am the mom for newer here behind a crafty concept in today's video. I'M going to show you guys how to crochet my best-selling pattern and my best-selling product from my Etsy shop, the Clara fun beanie. This is the first pattern I ever designed and released like for purchasing, and it has done so well. I'Ve just been blown away this. This pattern is what turned a crafty concept from selling finished pieces to selling and creating crochet patterns to share with people. So I'm very very excited to share this with you guys. Today I asked my Instagram followers at the end of 2018. I told them if we got to Tim Keady before 2019. I wouldn't release one of my paid patterns as a free pattern. I let everybody vote on which pattern they would like to be released and Clara bun beanie won by landslide. So that's what we're gon na get into today, I'm super excited. I can't wait to start seeing y'all it's clear button. Beanies, let's go see what you need to make this pattern. You will need some yarn. I use. I love this yarn. This is the color gray beard, it's just a worsted weight yarn. I love this yarn is just my go-to. You will need a J six millimeter crochet hook. This is my clover more hook. I notice that I get the same tension with this guy, as I do an eye hook in Susan Bates or boy brand hooks if you've never used clover more hooks before you might want to test that out to see if your tension is different before you start And some scissors tapestry needle for sewing in your ends at the end, and I like to attach a tag to my beanies that says a crafty concept. A lot of my customers find this touch very nice. It makes the beanie look just more finished and put together. I get my tags from all this wood on Etsy and I will link that below for you guys too, so you can get some custom product types for your beanies. Ok, following along with the pattern, we're gon na start with the brim and it says, make a slip, knot and chain 10. You can find the pattern on my blog linked below, or the ad free pdf in my Etsy shop, also linked below for you guys. So we make our slip knot and chain 10. Then it says row 1 skip the chain closest to your hook and single crochet in the next 9 stitches chain 1 and turn your work so we're gon na skip this chain right here, go into the next one. For a single crochet 1 insert your hook yarn over pull up a loop yarn over pull through 2. That'S 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8 chain. One turn our work rows: 2. Through 50. It says we're gon na single crochet in the back loop. Only for the all 9 stitches. So if you look at the top of your work, you can see your front loop and your back loop. It'S the loop further from you, we're gon na insert our hook just into the back loop. Will loop pull through two and we're gon na? Do that all the way down for 50 rows? You may notice that I yarn under my hook, you can see instead of you might yarn over to pull through with this pattern. It doesn't make a difference. All it does. Is it changes? If you can see, my single crochets are a little twisted looking and yours might have a really nice. Indeed, if you yarn the other way yarning under like this is faster for me, and it's just how I taught myself and it's easier. So that's how I do it, but if you see that yours is looking slightly different or my hands are doing something weird that your hands, don't do that's why so Row 3 just keep going back loop only yarn over and then Row 4. We'Ve turn our work after every row and then keep going in the back loops and we're going to do this until we get 50 total rows and after I get 50 I'll come back. I forgot to mention to be cheerful when you do your chain ups, your chain ones at the end of each row and make sure you don't do them too tightly. If you chained up like super tight, then your brim won't have this stretch that it needs to fit around an adult head. This is the adult size. So after you do your nine and you chain up one right, there make sure that you don't make that as tight as you possibly can, because I think some people have just made them really really tight in their beanie state and stretch almost done and then I'll Be back to show you guys how to join okay, I just finished row 50, and I want to show you guys a few tricks that I do one if you notice that your headband is twisting like that. That'S okay! It won't stay like that. It'S just from turning your work. I think to something that I do to know. If I have an even number of rows, so 50 is an even number, so I know that my working yarn should end up on the opposite side of my starting yarn. That'S just something like if I'm getting ready to stop and count and see how many rows that I have. If it's on this side, I know I need to at least do one more when they're, both on opposite sides like this. That'S when you have an even number so that might help you guys count also something that I do is I count the valleys so like download. This is a peak. This is the valley and I'll just go 2. 4. 6. 8. 10. 12. 14. 16. 18. 20. 22. 24. 6. 28. 30. 2. 4, 6, 8, 42, 46, 850, and then I know that I have my 50 rows. I know. Sometimes rows can be hard to count. That'S just one way to help you guys. I grabbed a tape measure, so I could show you guys about how much mine is measuring at this point. The pattern says it should be about 14 inches in length and that's unstretched, I'm just gon na give it a tug. So all the stitches fall in the right spot and then we'll measure this and see where we're at. Oh look perfect. That was a little worried, but it might not be right at 14. Okay, so you might think 14 inches wow, that's way too small for anybody's head. How is this ever gon na fit an adult sized head? That'S the size of my hand, this the single crochet in the back loop only stitch is very stretchy. This thing will stretch you want it to be stretched to fit instead of fitting loosely because then it won't like stay on your head. So that's why I designed it this way. It will stretch to fit around an adult head, it'll fit in like nicely. It won't be too loose and it won't be too tight, so it does stretch if you pull your brim and you notice that it's like feeling restricted and it's not stretching to its full ability. Your chain Ups might have been too tight. Now, let's go ahead and close the brim up and turn it into a circle. So the pattern says after finishing row: 50 still do your chain and turn as normal. Okay turn fold band in half with the right sides facing together working through both loops on each end of the band slip stitch to join. So we are going to slip stitch through this side of the band and this side at the same time. So we're gon na go through both of those and we're just gon na slip stitch so just insert our hook grab our yarn pull through everything. That'S one slip, stitch we're gon na. Do that for nine times making sure to go through boast and keep them lined up, and then it says we need to chain one after our nine slip: stitches okay. So this is the wrong side of our beanie. This is the part that will not be showing it will be inside, like touching your head, so now it says, turn band right, side out and turn your work 90 degrees to start working on the hat body. Okay, that I had a really hard time figuring out how to how to work that, but I'm going to show you on the video much easier flip our work right side out and then turn it. So you were here now we're gon na go here and we're gon na start working around this way. Instead of back and forth like we were doing so we're going to go back into where we just chained up and now we are going to do Row. One did i chain up no chain up. Okay. Now we are going to do Row, one of the body of the beanie. This looks really super small. You guys, I promise it stretches. The stretch is good so for Row, one we are going to single crochet around the raw edge of our rows here and we're gon na do 55 single crochets. Now there's only 50 rows of single crochet. So we're going to have to do five increases, so we're going to kind of make our own spots one oops, two three, four, five, six, seven, eight nine ten and I'm gon na go ahead and put an increase in that one too. So that's our first increase brings us to eleven stitches, four more increases to get to 55. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 29. 30. 31. That'S our third increase. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37. 8. 39, 40. 41. For our fourth increase 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50 and increase again for our fifth increase. 51. 52. 53. 54. 55 join back into your first single crochet. So right here, underneath both loops there yarn over, join and then chain one and now we start the fun parts which are the puff stitches so for Row. Two we're going to puff stitch in the same space as the chain. One skip the next stitch and then puff stitch in the next stitch, so our first puff stitch is gon na go in this same spot. Where we just joined our yarn right there yarn over insert your hook. Grab your yarn pull up a loop. That'S one yarn over insert your hook grab your yarn pull up only that's to yarn over in grabbed pull up three yarn over and grab pull up four and then yarn over pull through all the loops on your hook and then yarn over pull through one. That'S gon na secure our puff. Don'T forget to do that! Guy now we skip the next stitch and we're gon na do another puff in this stitch right here yarn over insert our hook. Grab our yarn pull up a loop. That'S one two-three-four yarn over pull through all the loops for two puff stitches, skip this guy and then puff stitch in this one. One, two three for pull through all and chain skip this guy, go into this guy right here and we're just gon na. Do that all the way around? Until we get back to the beginning, it will be 28 puff stitches and then we will start Row 3 and our first puff stitch will go in a different spot and I'm going to show you that once we get back around okay, I just did my 28th Puff and I'm getting ready to join into the top right here into the chain. 1. I know: that's it. That'S a chain 1! That'S the top of our stitch, so I'm going to join into the top of our stitch right there from our first puff just insert my hook, grab my yarn and chain 1. Okay, and now also you might notice that your beanie starts to curl over this way. That'S okay, we're gon na just straighten it out and need to be fine once it's all put together. No big deal now we're gon na do Row 3, which is our second row of puff stitches, and our first puff stitch is gon na. Go all the way over here into this space right here so for Row 2. It went right up next to the chain right here, but for Row 3. It'S gon na go all the way over here and our last puff stitch will be right here right up. Next to the chain, when we alternate where we start, that's gon na make our join go straight up the back instead of like got an angle, so we're gon na yarn over insert our hook all the way into that hole over the first puff and do our Puff stitch there, okay keep going into all the gap spaces from Row. Two we put a postage in all the gap, spaces and those spaces are created when we do the chain one after each postage. You may notice that I yarn under for my puffs. I think it gives them a boxy look. Some people just yarn over some people, yarn under it, really doesn't affect the overall fit of the Hat. My puff stitches are about three quarters of an inch tall, so if your beanies are coming out too tall, maybe your puffs are bigger. I have seen that some people meant when they make their puffs they yarn over. I mean they just like you know what I mean: pull it pull the yarn, so it makes a huge huge puff like this and just have really like loose tension, and you can see the difference there like if all of my puffs were this size versus this Size, my hat is gon na be much bigger, so that's just something to keep in mind. Okay, we are back around and I'm getting ready to do. The very last puff which is gon na, go in this hole and that's gon na bring my puff stitch right up close to my starting chain when I joined so I'm going to join into the top right here and chain one and now you can see my Puff stitch is right up next to the starting train right there, and even though my first one, which is Row 2, is right up next to it on this side, so we're gon na alternate all the way up, which side the which side of the puff stitches Are touching the chain so for Row 4, which is our third row of puff stitches? It'S confusing, because this first row is a single crochets. We'Re going to put our first puff stitch right into this guy right next to our chain. Just like that, and then we're going to pull them in all the gaps all the way around and our last one will go over here and then we'll reach over and join right here, I'll be back and back around to the end of the row. I'M gon na do my last puff stitch right here and then I'm going to join and China join all the way over here and then chain up. Okay for our next row, which is row five, our first puff stitch is gon na go all the way over. Here into that hole way over here yarn over your puff stitch, just like that and yes, your chain will be kind of pulled over to the side and then your last one will go here join two there, and then it will make that straighten up keeping your Seam, nice and straight up the back. I will do this row and then I'll be right back to show you how to close and then we'll go on to the next row. Getting ready to do the last puff stitch right here. This row join into the top of the first puff stitch and now for the next row, which is, let's see one two, three four, five: six we're going to puff stitch right here in this gap, starting there right up next to our chain. There I forgot to mention at the beginning, when I was going over the supplies that I can get two and a half player burn beanies from one solid color scheme of I love this yarn, so I think they're like less than three ounces. So that's something you can think about when you go to get some yarn or if you have half cakes or something that you want to make beanies out of the variegated yarn is only five ounces with I love this yarn and the solid colors are 7 ounces. With the variegated I can only get one and a half beanies and then two and a half beanies with the solid color to make the child-sized. All you do is go down a hook size. So if you're, using Susan, Bates or Boy brand hooks and you're using an eye, drop down to an H for the child size, if you're using clover more hooks - and you had to go up because of tension issues to a J for the adult size, I still Use an H for the child size so technically it's two hook sizes for the clover, remorse, okay, I will be right back as soon as I finish this row and we'll get started on in the next row. Just finish, the last puff join into the top of the first one. Okay, now you can see the chain is right up the center. Well: okay, we'll ride out the center, but it's straight doesn't curve next row we're going to put our first one right here and I think we have two more rows of puffs before we start our decreases. So our first puff stitch is gon na. Go all the way over here into the first gap. Also, since I was talking about how much yarn you'll need, I did a blog post that I called clear, bun, beanie, yarn experiment and I will link that below, for you guys and I tried making a clear button beanie following the same pattern, without any adjustments with Five different brands of worsted weight yarn, some of them turned out way too big and the the pattern would need to be adjusted or I would need to go down to hook size. Some of them were a little bit smaller. A couple of them were perfect and they turned out just as good as the ones with I love this yarn turnout. Definitely something to look up when you are deciding which yarn you want to use, and I plan on doing more you're an experiment posts in the future. If you subscribe to my blog, you will get an email notification. Every time I make a new post and I'll put that link below for you guys too, I'm gon na finish this row and then I'll be back and we'll start the next one just finish the last puff in that row going to join and we are going To do one more row of puffs before we start our decrease rows, so we will have seven total rows of puffs and I always count my rows by going diagonally. When I try to go like this, I always lose count so one two, three four: five. Six last one will be seven and then we'll start a decrease rows. So our first puff it's gon na, go right here right up next to our starting chain and then we're just gon na keep going around in the chain gaps. Just like we've been doing. You can see the beanies shape, so it's smaller down here and it's starting to fan out and then after we do our decreases. It'S gon na come back around like that. That was designed. That way. Specifically, I really like the mushroom shape. I think it looks nice and I think it fits heads nicely, so I'm gon na finish this row and meet you back to join okay. I just did the last puff stitch. I'M gon na join into the top of my first puff stitch and chain, one okay. If you are following the pattern, either the PDF or on my blog, it says here if you want to close your Clara bun beanie and make it a like a regular beanie instead of a bun beanie you're gon na want to jump down a few rows, but We'Re gon na do the fun fini version in this video and I will do another video showing the closed version so to continue on with the fun version. It says we're on row 9 now and it says to puff stitch in the first step, created right here by the chain: 1 stitches in row 8, and then we're going to decrease over these two right here. So first we're gon na put in a puff stitch right there. Just like we've been doing now. We'Re going to puff stitch decrease over these next two zoom in a little bit. So you guys can see what I'm doing so we're going to yarn over insert our hook into the next. The next gap flip a loop. That'S one, two, three: okay, now we're going to yarn over go into the next gap, pull up a loop for one. Two. Three, you know you have all of those loops on our hook and we're going to yarn over and pull through all of them we're going to chain one. So we just turned these two gaps into one stitch. So following the pattern, it says two puff stitch in the next three chain gap. So one two three and then puff stitch decrease right here. We'Re going to do that all the way around repeating that so three and then a decrease, but we're going to end on a decrease. So these two puffs, these two gaps here will be turned into a decrease puff. So let's do the next repeat here: I'm going to put a puff stitch here this one two three and then we are going to decrease over these next two dots here yarn over insert into the next gap, pull up a loop. Do that three times, that's one! That'S two: that's three and then yarn over go into the next chain gap, one two three and yarn over and pull through everything and then chain. So we're gon na keep repeating that until we get back around over here and then I'll come back and we'll join together. Ok, I'm back around to the beginning, when I do my last decrease right here over these two three two three yarn over pull through all the loops on my hook from a decrease join into the top of the first stitch and chain one for the next row. We'Re going to start by doing a puff stitch in the first chain gap right here right up next to our chain and then we're going to puff stitch, puff stitch cut such decrease on here right up next to our chain, two and three, and then we're going To decrease over these two right here, one two: three one: two: three pull all chain now, our repeat for this row is going to be puff, stitch, puff, stitch, puff stitch, decrease so two puffs and then a decrease one. Two now a decrease okay. Do it? One more time, little slower I've made probably six billion of these, be nice, like I said they were my best seller and my Etsy shop and my best selling pattern. So I've made a bunch of these two puffs and then a decrease. I do that all the way around until we get back to the beginning, just in my last increase and then we have one more puff stitch too in this row. So, instead of going decrease puff puff we're just gon na do decrease puff cuz. We are out of space, that's how the pattern is written. Okay, join back in to the top of our first puff stitch chain one now. This is our last puff stitch row and then we have a single crochet row and then you're done. So let's do our last puff stitch row. The pattern says to start by puff stitching and the gap created by your chain. One space here so we're gon na stretch over and go into that gap and then we're going to decrease and that's going to be the pattern, all the way around postage, postage, decrease, decrease and then for the last one. It says the pattern says to do a puff stitch instead of a puff stitch decrease. So we will do that when I get back around here. Okay, so since there's only one gap left, we can't do a decrease with just one, so we're just gon na end with one puff stitch here. At the end, you join into the top of our first puff stitch chain, one okay, so our last row row 12. We'Re just going to single crochet in each stitch around four twenty four single crochets, starting in this one right here right up next to our chain, one two: three for five: six: seven: eight 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24. Joining to the top of our first single crochet next, there's any tie off so use your scissors cut yarn through and now you have a clear bun beanie use your tapestry needle to sew. In your tails, I like to flip mine inside out and sew in my tails on this side, just using a forestry needle. I go in to that row one right here and that's where I hide my yarn and the stitches. The single crochet row of the body of the Hat and I just go in one way and then right back down and I kind of wiggle it. So it's going in between the different fibers and getting all knotted up under there. Nice and secure flip that off and then for this one. I go straight down into the into the stitch first and then on the sides right here for the last single crochet row that we did and you are all done. You can add a tag if you would so like to. I get mine from all this wood on Etsy and I will link that below, for you guys. I hope you all love this pattern. I hope you enjoy making Claire bun beanies and if you sell your finished pieces, I hope you sell a bunch of them. You are more than welcome to list them in your Etsy shops or your other online shops or sell them in your markets. I just ask that you credit me a crafty concept for the design, so other crochet errs. You can find the pattern as well. Like I said I do have a closed version, which is just slightly different. It'S got a few more rows to make it close, so you can like add a faux fur prom or something. I will link the video to that down below once it's posted and I will link the blog post to that once it's posted as well. If you make any Clairborne beanies, please tag me on instagram. I would love to see them. I love seeing all the different yarns that you guys use and the color combos and stuff, so you can hashtag player, bun, beanie or just at a crafty concept, and I will see it. I follow that hashtag, so they show up on my Instagram feed and I try to like all of them and comment on most of them, while your hashtag getting your pictures with hashtag Claire bimini go ahead and follow me on instagram for some fun behind-the-scenes stuff. I'M pretty active in my stories, always posting life of a mompreneur there and, like i've mentioned multiple times. If you subscribe to my blog, you will get a notification every time I post a new blog post and I also send out a free sheet of wrap labels. Every Wednesday which are perfect for Claire bun beanies, you just you, wrap your beanie and then put the wrap label around it and they say handmade with love and it's super cute. It'S a great way to package your beanie. If you like this pattern, and this video, give it a thumbs up and go ahead and subscribe to my youtube channel for more awesome, free crochet patterns and business tip videos, you'll have a fantastic day. I'Ll talk to you later, bye,