How To: Cut Short Hair With Briana Cisneros

Where, with one of my favorite artists, someone, I've had a chance to work with a little bit recently, and I think she's got a lot of skill and a lot to share with you guys, Breanna, Cisneros and Breanna is a global ambassador or North American ambassador with Wella color she's pre-colored her model Vlada, so we'll get to see that finished look, but today she's going to be cutting for us. I'M super excited for that. As always I'll be looking for your questions here and giving you guys shout outs, let us know where you're watching from ask your questions and I'll be sharing them with Breanna. What is that going on today? Well, I was thinking that today we would do. I wanted to do a shag haircut and a pic see if they had a baby shigeaki a sexy or a micro shag yeah that sounds better. Let'S, let's get rid of the shag exceed that one so um, but so what I'm gon na start with is I'm actually gon na start in with a shaggy bang? I I, when I'm approaching a haircut, I really like to start where there's the most impact and build off of that. I start where there's a lot of impact or maybe even where there's certain details that I'm just noting out over. So if I'm like. Oh I'm gon na love this detail. I make sure that I pay a lot of attention right off the get-go to those areas, so I think her shaggy bang is gon na be the biggest impact, so I want to start there um. I want to walk you through just quickly the sectioning. I took a horseshoe section just below the parietal Ridge and I took it a little bit lower because I do want to keep it more of a shaggy look then to pixie and the higher you take that the more you're removing from here and the less hair That you have to work with up here right, so I took it a little bit lower. I also sectioned off right here right at the top of the crown a radial section, okay. So what that leaves me with? Is this moon shaped section in the back right? There and so the and the reason I have the back section like this - it's just a reminder for me that this is where she has some of her lengths. Typically, I would leave some of these details down here, but she had an undercut, so I'm making sure that all of the little parts that I love these are some of those details that I was speaking into that I to kick out and do something fun right. There I'm making sure that I can section that away and remind myself: hey, don't touch those right, which is why that's the next thing, I'm gon na cut I'll cut the fringe and then I'll cut these details, which I also have in the front here. This is another area that I want to maintain some length right through. That'S like looking in the mirror. Here we go right through here around her hairline these little details. I want to have some kick the ability to kind of give them texture and flip them out. A little bit and then the in-between areas are, I need to collapse the weight and collapse it down and just kind of take away a lot of that bulk. So I'm gon na start in on her fringe area or bang area. Depending on what country you're from right have you ever heard, it called a pony, a pony yeah? No, when I first started cutting hair, the one of my very first clients on my first day on the floor was a German stewardess after she kept asking me about her pony had no idea what she was talking about, but in Germany they call that sometimes a Pony, that's so like opposite of what I think of a pony yeah, you think it's at the back yeah but ponies also have hair at the front. Okay, great you're right, but that's called a forelock dressage. So we have a lot of love coming in. We'Ve got some good friends watching Mirena Lantos is excited to see you cut she's a big fan of your work. Yep we've got people watching from all over the world. I'Ve seen some flags, I don't even know what they are. We'Ve got. Space presa Brahimi is watching from the UK. We have our good friend James or Neil, watching from Tulsa. We'Ve got Stroh bogged in watching from Romania and again at this flag. I'M not sure what this one is know. What that one is we'll have to translate. Austin, Texas, eggs, guys, let us know, let us know where you're watching from but also questions. You know that's what this is all now. Her brain is here to share this incredible education that well, it provides through artists like Briana. So please, let's get some great questions from you and I'll be sure to share them with Briana. Today, okay, should I start in do there are no questions? I'M gon na start. This little section here is so near and dear to my heart, because it is what I build my entire shaggy Bank after and honestly when this isn't cut a certain way, even on myself, it's kind of like a make or break it for me, in a fringe Section so it's the small little triangle and I'm gon na go in with my shear, and the reason I want to use my shear is because I want to actually maintain a little bit of the just. I want it to be really solid. I want it to feel solid. I'M gon na stand over here, so you guys can see better alright. So I'm gon na pull this small triangle, section 90 degrees from her head. If you have a mirror, you're able to kind of look and see if you need to shift to the left or to the right - and I give myself plenty of room to work, so I put my comb up here myself, plenty of room to work and it's An opening and closing motion and a rocking out motion, so open-close open-close and rock out rocking open closed rocking open, closed rocking open closed at a 45 degree angle. So, essentially, what you're creating is shorter hair on the underneath, with a little bit of length preserved on top. You can check your line that it's diffused and it's at that 45 degree angle. So Brent as I watch you do that technique. It really feels to me, like it's very relative, to razor cutting it's a similar kind of movement and, like a stroke with the scissor 110 percent, I'm actually gon na change up my razor and you're not really gon na be able to see what was a scissor And what was a razor because a lot of my scissor techniques, I end up doing some kind of opening my stroke, either smaller or larger, even with my sheer just make sure that you're not dragging it on the hair as much because this is kind of designed For that, so you have to make sure that your technique is really kind of on point right on, and you know how do you feel about the two parts to this question so stylists, who are afraid to try razor cutting sure? Thank you. Oh really, an introduction to razor because I teach I do teach a master's class and we teach cuts that are somewhere. You know that's not the same but similar and and we use every tool and we pick up every tool and then we use them all for different reasons. But I think before you go in with like a straight blade that doesn't have a guard, you absolutely should take an introduction to razor class because I just think it's it's it's crucial to feel confident to go in with confidence. I would say you know, don't fear it but respect it. It'S if you go at it with fear. It'S never gon na get you anywhere, but if we learn how to respect it, you'll be doing great totally. I love that yeah, you don't want to you, don't want to be afraid of it, but you want to have that healthy awareness right. So I'm going in and cutting it shorter at the center getting gradually a little bit longer and a little bit longer and a little bit longer as I go towards my corners on each section that I bring forward. So we started off what looked like pretty short right, but each section that I dropped down, I'm actually making it a little longer and a little longer and a little longer as I move through now Brianna. If someone was working in the salon - and maybe they didn't have the time to do all the sectioning, you think they could still execute a haircut like this a little bit more kind of organically in terms of sectioning 100 % um. When I'm teaching, I feel like sectioning is like just the easiest way for me to communicate where I'm going, where I've been and the different areas of the head that I'm going to cut differently when I'm in the salon. I don't it's usually for this haircut I'll. Just take a horseshoe section right, and I know that I'm gon na treat the crown differently than the midsection and then the fringe and typically the fringe section. I let it break away, naturally, so that I can really see. I can really see where the hair is natural fall is, and that's how I find that so the way that I section is actually very organically, but then I break it down like this, so that you guys can understand a little bit more of the. Why I highly recommend, if you are doing a cut, that you're kind of planning or Matt like basically something new to you if you're doing something, that's a little bit new to you? I would absolutely absolutely section beforehand like when I'm creating a new technique. If I'm creating something from nothing, I'm like okay, this is a new haircut. I want to create something new I go in and that's it completely helps me to think about what I'm doing. Why and where I'm going with it great great answer and great advice, they only give some shoutouts. Oh we've got rich Lowe watching from Newport Beach right right down the coast. Here we've got one of my old friends Steven Mendelsohn, you might know Steven he's kind of legendary hairdresser here in California. What'S up Steven I'll, definitely contact! You send me a DM with your email, I'd love to talk to you again, I'm living back here in California. So I'd love to hang out with you. We'Ve got Samantha watching from the UK. We'Ve got someone from Russia. We might need a translator for that. One she's right here, Lott us from Russia. We do have a question coming in from Jessica with Stella. She is wondering what hair types will this work on? Is it just for kind of straighter, finer, hair, all right, and I just in general, with the razor? Can it work on different hair, textures, absolutely um. The razor, I think, is something that it's more about. What effect you want in hair um and what effect you want to create in the hair, but she has a little bit finer hair. So I am gon na be switching between my razor and my scissor, just because there are certain areas that I want to really strengthen and there's not one tool better than the other. I really don't. I really think that the best thing you could do is to free yourself up to just totally be able to use all of the tools available. It'S not the tool, it's the first thing. That'S the person, that's using it, it's the tool, that's using the tool right. So guys, if you're loving this education and you're getting a lot out of it, do us a favor hit that share button. So your friends, fellow hairdressers, can can also learn because we've got some special stuff happening here so completed the fringe, the bang. Now, starting on the undercard yeah, so I just took one section: diagonal back diagonal back gradually getting a little bit longer a little bit longer. This first section I just put a little bit of shaping. I didn't take very much length off at all and to make sure that camera can see you there, I'm directing this straight out. This is another one that actually I'm going to come above my fingers and I'm going to take out a little bit of weight and just kind of texturize the length away. So I'm creating kind of like a little bit of a channel cut and then an end piece channel cut and then the length channel cut and then the length. So, what's the purpose of the channel cut before you cut the length, so the purpose of that is that I want this to really break up and have this really PC effect. So I went in aggressively with my channel cut. It wasn't just to remove weight but to actually add texture right here, but this whole area is sectioned away. So I can really be I'll. Show you again on this side: okay, a lot more separation right on the hairline, where you want it all totally that PC look, I know, is it normal for you to go back and forth like this, as opposed to doing like one whole side in the other? Absolutely I think, when you want to be very intentional about about where you, where what exactly you did cuz, I I do I kind of make up haircuts as I go sometimes because it'll speak to me. You know something will speak to me and I'll say hey. I don't I don't really do there are specific haircuts that I do section specific ways that I've learned, but really I allow the haircut to guide me. So if I did something on that side, it's because I saw I saw something that I wanted to to do. A little bit differently than I initially said, I wanted to do so I'll, come in on this side and I'll just give myself the freedom to come in and just do it straight off. It'S kind of essential to have that. That'S a difference between cookie cutter and kind of organic, beautiful hair, even though you start off with a plan, you need that freedom to adapt it's totally totally and and when you're doing that, though, like when you have that freedom to adapt and you're adapting, I heard To do one side and then the other, because then that way, I'm able to not forget what I was being so crazy rough sketch. You can't like do the whole side of the rough sketch of a number yeah. You can get the basic form in and then to the details, totally I'm gon na this trailer. Just I have some awesome if you're just joining us guys we're here with Briana Cisneros we're at the wellis studio, you can tell by all the fancy camera work lighting. We upped our game today for you guys Brianna, sharing a beautiful razor cut, pre, colored hair, so we'll get to see a complete finished. Look here, which is awesome. We love that working through these intricate panels and razoring. Of course, I'm always here. Looking for your questions and shout outs, so let us know what questions you have and tell us where you're watching from and just share the love. Alright and I'm gon na take this section just over the ear, and this is going to help be my guide. So I'm actually going to cut around the ear and that's what I love about the razor is that you can take rounded sections and work rounded shapes. That is always super exciting to me. So I'm going to start at the center and I'm gon na go around the ear out. You see that and then I'll start at the center here using the heel of my blade, this back part of my blade and around the ear wai-wait so Brianna. How do you know when to use the tip and when to use the heel? I think that's a question that I always hear. I love to hear York yeah um. The easiest answer for me is when it feels naturally it's the direction you're moving right. So if I'm moving left to right, I'm using the tip, if I'm using, is that right right to left left to right would be the heel and then right the left would be the tip so to be. It actually does feel natural if you think about coming in this way and you're, trying to use the tip of your blade you're getting. This is just in the way right, so get it out of the way and use the heel. This part, if you're using the heel, the tip is gon na be in the way. So just if you think about it and kind of break down the reason why that always helps remind you, oh wait a minute. This seems a little awkward. Maybe I'm doing it wrong so June. Francis is watching from Ohio and she's wondering if hair with a lot of calyx can also have a short haircut. Is that possible? Oh, my gosh. It'S the best with the right products right yeah with the right products with um. I just love some good hair texture, like Vlada here, has great little wave to her hair, just a subtle little wave. It'S really gon na help us it's really gon na help, what we're doing and then tech and then, as far as calyx go my favorite one is in the crown like that cowlick in the crown that like swirl and when you just cut the hair cut off Of that, what are you tight, automatic height automatic route direction? Really you get this really really awesome route direction, so I'm over directing everything to the center. I want most of my shape to be collapsed here above her ear and I'm letting these be a little bit. Preserving a little bit of the length right behind her ear, if you guys can see that right behind her ear right, so I'm coming through now in this nape area, I actually kind of want to preserve a little bit of what's there and just break it up, Because, initially I was thinking I would leave this longer through here, but she had a grown out undercut. So I need to come from further up and then this is actually going to be the hair that I would have kick out at the nape. I have to travel further up and that's another one of those adjustments that you make right. It'S another one of those adjustments to be like okay, so I'm reaching it again and I'm channel cutting and then I'm establishing length, channel, cutting and then establishing length. So simple question but I think super important: what's the tension like when you're cutting here, I think a lot of times people increase your cutting is really about loose cutting, but it doesn't seem very loose to me what you're doing, no, not at all, honestly, actually jarred. We were kind of talking about this, like there is so much focus that needs to happen. Let me see if I can get you guys, a good angle here, where I'm not in front of them yeah. So so much of the focused attention is just in your fingertips and it's like you get to forget about the world around you and you have good tension on that hair. So once I start to lose my grip in my knuckle there, I regather it and I'll add more tension. If I need even more tension, you can use your fingertips and actually pinch the hair so that you get even more tension. Tension super important because then you're able to be more precise. If you tell us a little bit about the actual razor that you use, because I think again it it's very specific to this way of cutting sure yeah. It'S just a it's a straight blade. Um the Pilar, feather razor. I really like I really um love. I actually have used my eros eraser for a long time in New York, um that one it's it's very. This is exactly it yeah. It'S a feather, plee! I know feather play there. You go yep. That'S the correct way to say it yeah and you know again it's very specific that this type of cutting was kind of evolved around the tool yeah. You know there are a lot of great razors to work with guarded unguarded folding, not folding, but this very specific type of sculpting is really inspired by this tool and it's it comes from an early 1920s approach to to haircutting from France. It'S the name plie, which is right and do another blade. I'M like I don't know it's French there's a question coming in from Martha, Oh segue da, if you have to say one thing to be careful with with curly hair and a razor, what would it be? Curly, hair and a razor you know I approach curly hair curly hair is just different in general, it's a different texture. It'S a different way of cutting the tensions that were like really thinking about how much you're taking off how much it's gon na spring up. I, like cutting curly hair with a razor to me. A razor is more about the effect you want to give as opposed to like. Would you cut curly hair with a razor? Would you cut straight hair with a razor? Would you cut fine or coarse or thicker? I would cut it all with a razor. I think it depends on how you use the razor and what effect you're giving it. So really it's more a matter of how are you cutting that hair, so I'm gon na leave this a little bit of detail. I always liken it to to bleach or high-lift color or something like that. It. Anyone can be blonde, it's just how you do it and how you apply it and - and you know how you customize it you're gon na use, different developers and with the razor using different amounts of tension and rotation. So it's all about again. It'S a back to the hairdresser, not the tool, yeah 100 %, so I'm taking the hair out at a 45, I'm creating a little bit of a graduation right here, but it's also kind of collapsing it as well. So if there's a buildup of weight to maintain the roundness of the shape of her head using about a medium stroke for just a little bit of texture, but also to create that shape, so it's skin eing out this area and building up just a little bit Of weight here and then I'm being very cautious, because I've already cut this area to not go too crazy right in those corners. Because I want to make sure that I maintain those fun pieces. And then I'm just going to over direct this a little bit. Because this is actually going to get included and absorbed into that as well. So more great questions coming in from Jessica, Estella she's wondering how often you change your blades, I turned it every haircut or it you know you can get away with every other haircut um, but I like to have a fresh blade. I, like the feeling when it's like there's convinced sharpest can be, but sometimes it's interesting though, if there's somebody that has a specific hair texture and you want like the slightest bit of drag. Sometimes I actually or if I'm softening around the nape area or cutting some hair just to make it really soft and using a little bit of the flat. I sometimes I like to have a little drag. Sometimes people keep blade razors, not weights but razors in their kit. Knowing one that's maybe got two haircuts on it and one then you kind of keep alternating so you've got the real, sharp one for the detail. Work and you've got the slightly dull one for the rougher edges yeah for sure I love that, and I'm I'm all about having a million tools for different reasons all into it. So over her ear, going around her ear, creating a round shape short too long, see that right there - and this is just a great guide to use as well, because you're able to cut, I always cut. What'S like important to me, I'm like around her ear. That'S really important to me, and then I just so happen to create a guide for myself right when I'm working through here, but I always cut the areas that are just really important to me. I think I want to see this look a certain way. I'M gon na attack it first, you know, but back to that same thing. The difference between good and great is so subtle, but with short women haircut, this can all be great, and if it's not good around the ear, it's not gon na grow in well. It'S not gon na feel good having short hair yourself, I'm sure you can attest to that. The bang, the hairline can be great, but over the years, if it's not right, it's like you need a haircut in a week. Totally I'm yeah I've gotten pretty picky short hair is so wonderful. For the same reason, I like love blondes, is that you can see everything you know what I mean like you can see it all. It'S all right there for you. So all of this color that we did in her blonde and all of the little like nuances and all of the details I like showing that off, I want to show what I can do right when it Turner this. So what what's? What'S your day-to-day, like now, I know at one point you were in the salon a lot, but I think your careers evolves a little bit. What what are you up to these days and evolving I mean it is just I feel like for me, and my career is evolving as fast as the industry's changing, which is fast, which is good. You know, I think it's healthy to to embrace that the change that is in the industry and to kind of just go after it, and so for me, that's kind of what I'm doing um and I encourage a lot of people to do it too. In their own way, I'm passionate about teaching. I'Ve got my workshop evolving and I do know that um I create me and my business partner, Shannon teach some master classes and well has been so awesome. They'Ve hosted a lot of our master classes right here in the studio, and it's just been such a privilege. So if people want to do a hands-on training with you, one of the places they can do it right here is in Calabasas at the Wallace to do 100 %. We'Re gon na try to set up some more dates for that, but we're kind of announcing dates as we have time, which is the beauty of our job and the beauty of the industry in general. Is that we're able to like change? You know like? Oh, I don't have a schedule yet for this and okay, you know we need more classes. Oh there's! This need there's that evil, especially now we have so much connectivity together. It used to be how to put out a cap and doing this for a minute. Yeah used to be better put out a calendar like a year ahead, because by the time we mailed it to people and like yeah, happy to the town, squared or ya, know. But now you can put it right out on Instagram. But I know that's been a big thing for you, using social media just spread your message in your education totally and that's so important to me, like I, I'm really big on just like trying to leave some kind of legacy after I'm gone, I'm morbid, but just You know the reality is: is that the only things that lasts forever are the things that you really instill in other people you know, so I think this gives me a great way to do something. I'M really passionate about. So I'm dropping down this back section and I'm gon na take diagonal back sections here in the crown and I'm gon na over direct them. This way, all this way and then all the opposite way cutting with my razor rounded. So that's something that, with the sheer unless you're you can point cut round, but with the razor it's kind of a nice fluid motion as you're cutting you're able to jump on this side, you're able to look at exactly where it lays and just create that shorter. Here and like travel with it as you're moving, so why don't you? Do you want to create a rounded shape here? How do you choose between round or square or triangular? What are the things you're looking for when you determine that that area needs to be rounded, so for me, it's all about head shape and just what's flattering so for her around this back part of her head. I do want a nice rounded effect. I wouldn't want to go into square, I feel like I want to keep it nice and feminine feminine. Sometimes, a more square effect can be a little bit more masculine, and I also don't want to go to. I want this to be soft, really really soft and really organic and follow the natural flow of her like as a haircutting tip in general. That'S one of the foundation things that we learn round or head shapes enhances femininity squarer a little bit more masculinity. So that's kind of informing your decision yeah absolutely want to give some shoutouts. I we've got my good friend, Curt Keefe and her watching always a pleasure to have Curt, join us. I'D love to hear some questions from Curt. Melanie could be loves. Razor cutting Andrea young has very curly hair and does not like razor cutting, and I want to say Andrea, that's great. I should find a hairdresser that is as good with the scissor the clip or the razor and find what's right for you. I don't know about you Breanna, but when anyone sits in my chair and says hey, I don't like razor cuts. I don't give him a razor cut. How do you treat that that's interesting question cuz? Sometimes I will tell people now you're wrong yeah, but you know, but in a way that I'm with you Gerard in the sense that I'm like hey, that's absolutely fine I'll use the scissor, but I build that trust relationship. I would build the trust I build the trust with my clients if, after they've returned to me, they know that I have nothing but love in my heart for them, they believe in your skill, set your skill level, and you know they they've come to just kind Of buy into whatever it is that you're selling, but you're not selling it it's because you really believe the fact that you know I want to use the razor on you for this specific reason. I just touched on the most important thing. There is to say, if you want to be a successful hairdresser, you have to learn how to gain trust, and you learn that through communication and respect for your clients, wishes and then, of course, technical ability, but they always take that for granted. They don't necessarily you know, they don't know how good you are technically. They just know how you communicate and if you respect their wishes yeah once you get that trust, then you raise her away, yeah and, and speaking of I'm gon na switch to my scissor right now, because I'm actually just gon na strengthen up some of these pieces. For her, because we just pre lightened her hair and so it's kind of just getting a little, I want it to look like it has like kind of a little bit of something going on here. Just a point cut just a bit and add some deeper texture and strengthen up the ends. So do you mix the scissor and the razor a lot all the time yeah I I literally as I'm working through a haircut. That'S something that is just very very me. Is to just constantly be going back and forth between tools, I'll even use my um, my guarded feather razor, this guy. Where did he go he's here somewhere right here, um in just certain areas, great so I'll, even use that just like areas here in the nape I'll kind of pick it up at any point, if something's bugging me I'll go in and just like all right, I Just don't want that there anymore. I don't want to look at it anymore. Cutting hair I've been cutting hair. That'S a good question! I'Ve been, I don't you don't have to count the Barbies. I know right yeah. No, I legitimately. My first haircut was when I was 11, but but professionally I'm 34 years old. Right now, no shame baby. I started when I was. I started when I was 18, but I really feel like it took me a solid to just be like. Yes, it took like solid seven to ten years to be like that's it's a craft and it takes that's. That'S your journey, the seven to ten years to get to mastery totally. I completely agree, but what I was getting at was. Did you start off with a lot of scissor cutting before you started to do razor? I did 100 %. I was terrified of the razor. I was really scared of the razor, so yeah, I'm gon na switch to my scissor she's. Just got a little bit. Her ends, I want to kind of strengthen them up, I'm creating a little bit of a square shape right here and just creating some texture to connect the back to the front and I'm a really really deep point cutting. So there is a line and I'm very strategic about the little pieces that I leave as well. I want this to be shorter than the back and shorter than this front piece just connecting them together and I'll. Even I mean sometimes I'll go in, and I think I want like a good amount of separation here. It'S kind of awkward because I'm trying to show the camera but backhand slice ha ha ha little backhand slicing. So like what? What told you that you needed to change the way you were cutting it? You were kind of pointing the ends and like what did you see that made, you feel you how to change the angle of a scissor. So, as I was pointing in this way, it felt very natural, but - and I can point in is one thing, but I was actually doing a little bit of a see shaping motion to remove even more weight and create even more separation here. So you get these really cool like pieces, so you can see kind of the undercut in between them. So that was important to me and again it's not something you planned out on paper like first I'm going to point and then I'm gon na do this. So yeah, that's where the mastery comes in, having done it for long enough to recognize what needs to evolve in the technique absolutely and I'm starting to elevate a little bit higher as I work up just a little touch base. If you're just joining us, I'm Gerard cigar Pacey, we're here for hairbrained, live where a special especially hosted today at the Wella studio, super fancy, lots of cameras and lights and sounds and graphics, and incredibly talented, Brianna Cisneros, who I love. I love the way she does. Hair, I know a lot of you guys do too lot of love coming in. You got a lot of fans yeah again, if you guys have any questions as this technique of valves. I know, as it starts to dry off, we'll talk about the color. I mean it's kind of wet, but you did some pre coloring here and you obviously use the Wella the well alone and different products from Wella. So we'll talk about that. But let's I feel like you're, getting close to the end of the haircut, which is great with everyone that you just joined just give us a recap of where you started sure. So I started here in the fringe area. I did a shaggy bang. I did a bit of an undercut from shorter to longer I over directed each section a little longer than the previous to create a weightiness, but a softness, because I used my razor and then I preserved some length here around the hairline here in the back. I collapsed a bit over her ear. I had collapsed a bit right here at the nape, creating some graduation here and then I did. There was a horseshoe section that I did a rounded haircut on and I elevated each one slightly higher with the razor and I came through the side which I'm about to complete this side and I'm point cutting with my scissors to connect it and bring it all Together, I want this texture to be a little different. Then then, the texture in the crown and the texture. We find a better way to do this, for you guys it makes me think about. You know, precision in a different way. I mean we always just think about precision is just blending everything perfectly, but you're actually making precision choices about your texture totally yeah. So let's talk a little bit about that like what? What does it create for this texture to be different from the texture underneath it for sure? So, I'm like a huge fan of I I nerd out on precision cutting right. I really love it, but I also have a very organic way of working where I'll pick up a you know, I'm not going to just use one tool throughout the entire haircut, because I'm thinking I'm thinking through everything I'm doing and what I'm thinking is, as I Want this to have a really cool kind of choppier, PC er effect, but I want her nape to be soft. I want her crown to be really soft and I want her fringe to be like feathers. You know like around her hairline, so I switch up what I'm using, because it's the effect that I want to give in the hair and also I want to kind of strengthen her little baby ends after being pretty lightened. So I'm just about to be done with the wet part of the haircut there's very little honestly when you're using your tools in this way, there's very little to do after it's really more about like more detail work, you know more detail, work more detail work, but I'M cutting it kind of square so that it it resembles a pixie still right and then this last portion, just through the top I'm gon na, create kind of like a concave layer. I'M gon na preserve the length through the crown. Just that way, you know Brianna what is a pixie to you. I mean it's one of these terms like a bob or a shag or what, when, when you think of pixie, what what is it? Is it a certain length? Is it a certain texture? What does it mean to you? A pixie to me just means well what I think of as a rounded shape around the head. It'S like hugging, the head in such a way, but so can a bomb can be around Bob. You know what I mean, so I guess it is more of a length thing I think of it as more of a length thing. Typically like somewhat undercut in the underneath. There'S there's just so many ways to do a haircut that that's kind of a hard question, because I you know when you look at one I'm like, I feel like it's a length thing. It'S like III, agree. You know it's like yeah when you're covering the ears to me, it kind of again and there's no real real answer here right, but it and that's why it's so important to be able to communicate with your client cause. If they say I want to pixie and they really want to Bob, you know it could be something completely different. Do you still do a lot of clients on that on a regular basis? I do yeah. I am. I do a little bit less in the salon. Now because I'm a little bit I'm on the road a lot, so I'm an unreliable stylist. I can't I'm never like I'm just canceling people today that have stayed with me for years. You want touch just quickly on this there's a concave layer shorter by the fringe, and the reason that I do. That is because I want the hair to sit, and this is something important to me as somebody who has a pixie. I need these pieces right here to differentiate my fringe, so it basically goes concave up and then concave again, because these hairs are shorter, underneath and that to me is another one of those like. Oh wow that'll change your pixie game because you're not just creating a short, too long, you're creating so many different short too long throughout that really wrap around the head shape and just create something way more interesting to look at I'll stand on this side. For you, you've gotten a lot of love for your jacket today from Greece going on. That'S the pants yeah the pants and she wore a lot of jacket too. Oh, I went full sandy yeah. I am the jacket, as I stated previously, was from wasteland. So it's this really awesome, like vintage shot that they have stuff, that's designer. So it's like a $ 2,000 leather jacket that I didn't spend $ 2,000 on. You know it's just great. So if you're ever in the LA area go to wasteland just check, if see if those reach - and they don't all right guys, just give it a shake cool, I'm loving the way that the deep root this was all planned that the deep root is giving, and I want to just kind of check for those last little details, we added a little bit of yellow that I cut a bunch off, but you can still kind of see it's. This cool, like greeny, yellow, color right there and, as you start to dry off you'll talk a lot about the color in the formulas. I think people are very interested yeah I mean it is, would it be easier to even post them um, so the the color that we did on her base? I wanted to use my comb, so this is what I do in the salon. What I do is I go um. Thank you, yeah, the color that I used was 7 0 1 & 7, 1 7, and that was with 10 volume on a level 5 base level 5 level 6, and we just wanted to warm up her base. I wanted the gold I was like give me all the gold I'm so into it. So I'm just going through the nape area just softening that further but yeah. I was really stoked to incorporate some gold in her base because I felt like with the the pale soft pink it would just really bring that out and create something beautiful, I'm liking that yeah totally post the formulas just took a picture of your board. Oh you shut up, so everybody can see it. Oh yeah and the end color was really fun. Everything was cool, estan, perfect, so it's actually a permanent color that I did through the ends with a pastel developer, which is exciting because I love mixing things that are like just a mixologist kind of thing. So we used a level 10 and it was a nine stroke, five and a nine stroke, six just a little bit of nicer, Vegas, predominantly 10, stroke, 95 and then a tiny little pea-sized of 5 5, which is a level 5 intense red violet. So it's a 4 6, 5, 5 or 6 and just a pea size and that's what gave it even more of that pinky hue, how you guys doing out there great lots of love coming in Judy Malin says gold is so underrated these days right. So that's a little shorter because she had an undercut, so I might even undercut this even a little more undercuts. The undercard I'm gon na undercut that undercut Courtney bright from hair brained is watching amber Cooke says she loves it. It'S super inspiring thanks, amber super cute, says Donna, car and lots of people have liked and agreed to that. So now, as you get into these little final touches, I mean this is where it gets to be like. How do you know when to say one isn't that the Trekker it's like it could always be more purr right, so I'm coming in here and I'm just kind of channel cutting we're very close to being done. I'M always close to being done when I kind of bust this guy out is that now because, as the hair is maybe drying off a little bit, you find it. You know more comfortable to work with or yeah, because I wouldn't I didn't. I don't necessarily go in with a straight blade on dry hair. It sounds a little on dry hair sure so for this I like to it just helps me kind of like soften it and get that little finessed finish. I know each tool has its own thing right. It just creates something a little bit different than the next thing. Well, that's what makes it really super interesting is that you know as a craftsperson craft hairdresser, you can really explore and, as your career goes on, you can keep trying new things like we talked about before. I didn't touch a razor for the first 10 to 15 years of my career and now it's what I'm known for. So it's definitely something that keeps you going. So I think we are gon na dry her off. Are we gon na dry? Her later? Are we gon na dry no right now, yeah, okay, hey God, I think we're waiting for a blow dryer, I'm gon na get some some product going in there. I'M gon na use. This is my cutting lotion to UM. The perfect me is a great it has like just the right amount of slip. It has subtle, subtle, hold so I'll use that as I'm working through with my razor. So I put about this much on her hair, especially on the ends. That'S because it just like really allows your razor to glide through really with tons of ease so uh, so I'm gon na use a little bit more of that and it'll just help kind of like moisturize. Her ends just a bit and then also give it just enough grip. She doesn't know what she looks like. Oh yeah. You do use computer monitor. What do you think so far, yeah yeah, so good on you, I, when I saw her face it was so funny. Cuz, I'm thinking oh my gosh. This is like my haircut. You know, I think it's kind of like my hair, and so I was like people are gon na think I only do one thing or like that. I'M only into this right now right. It'S amazing how just a little bit of product can completely transform the texture. Oh wonder what we use here, so that was perfect. Imperfect me yes! Well, as I knew so, you can see how these little pieces underneath just add that extra bit of like texture to so, if you can just even sometimes I like to actually dry it more organically, and then I go in just with the details with my blow. Dryer, but this is a perfect example of they were saying. Well what about my you know what about my pixie? What about it is a pixie okay for people with calyx right, and so my answer is like heck. Yes, like that's exactly it, that gives it the character and the uniqueness. Absolutely it's your thumbprint, it's your thumbprint of your head really. So this is your thumbprint and nobody's. Pixie is gon na. Look like yours because of your Kelly and because of your thumbprint, and it does give you this great natural height right there as her hair starts to just really unlock some of her natural wave and her natural texture. Are you kind of on a one product? Finish? Are you someone who kind of combines and cocktails a lot of things together? I combined and I cocktail a lot of things, but I typically I don't go crazy beforehand, like I typically do a lot of my hair styling afterwards and then I'll grab all of my products afterwards, but yeah beforehand. I kind of stick to something that just kind of helps to bring out like some kind of a curl cream or like like to perfect me, which I'll has just enough slip and just enough hold and the twisting with the fingers there does. That kind of enhance the wave and set the texture yeah, and so what I'm doing is when I twist the hair, I actually go in the direction that I want the curl. Well, basically, you listen to the hair. So if the hair is what you're saying it's telling me I it does, it speaks to me Gerard it does like. Basically, I don't want to work against it. It'S telling me this way. I'M gon na go this way. You know because otherwise, there's penalties right, because I'm trying to force it trying to force it trying to force it, and then it's not that effortless look that you're going for in the first place. I'M telling you hair speaks to me. I'M like it wants to be here, go in a minute, it's kind of having its moment really effortless hair like overly styled hair, is kind of maybe off to the side, even though we've had that for a while yeah you're still seeing a lot of it. No, I think that well, there's like some on the runway. Some things are coming like big hair yeah, it's kind of like back on it like these big 90s blowouts are kind of coming back, but then with the complete juxtaposition of like completely undone. So there's like completely undone and then there's completely done, there's kind of no in-between, that's kind of how fashion is right. It'S always like either black or white yeah yeah have gray for sure so yeah, I'm I'm into the completely done. How do you know when you need to add more, do you kind of? Can you see it? Is the hair telling you something there yeah when I need to add more it's basically just if these ends need to be like a little bit more sealed or I feel like they're. Maybe there wasn't enough product distributed to that area off the get-go. So as I'm working through it's more of just a texture thing with your hands, alright, so Briana, I think you're gon na be finishing up and you're doing a little bit more styling, off-camera and well. We'Ll show a final in the in the feed yep thanks everybody, good guy. What do you think are we liking it so far? Yeah you've had nothing but love coming in from all over the world. Some really great hairdressers seeing lots of great comments and excited to see you. So thanks for joining us again at HB live we'll be back again very very shortly. We'Ve got a whole bunch of stuff coming up next week, we've had a great time here at the Wella studio, I've really enjoyed working with Breanna. We got to do this more often 100 % peace out guys hi, everybody mm-hmm. So we wrapped up the haircut. The styling was pretty straightforward. We went with her natural break right here, her cowlick right there. We styled it out from there everything forward towards her face blow drying it with Amy's. Perfect me what that was really the hero product. I feel like in the style, because I used it before I blew dry it after I blew dry it to define it. I, like the amount of moisture that it gives to the hair as well as just just enough hold, and then we went in with the stay, essential, hairspray and just kind of kick those ends out further. I used my before I use the hairspray. I used my flat iron and I just added some bevels a little bit under for the fringe out in certain areas and added to her natural wave already with the flatiron