Haircolor Formulation For Gray Hair And Going Lighter

So let's say we're gon na, say natural level: six, because everybody thinks they're a natural level, six, let's say desired: color personality. Let'S say that our client wants to be. What do they want to be? Give me something and then a nine. They are at nine. In a national text, so they want to be a 9 a and what's their percentage of gray, slightly okay, so I'm in it it's 20 %. Okay, and that's all to you right now. We don't need to contexture and all that crazy stuff, we'll just assume everybody's texture is a medium just for argument's sake. The texture is medium okay, so how many levels are we lifting went from a level six to level nine three levels? Okay and we need to cover great, but only 22 %. Okay, so, are we more concerned about the coverage or are we more concerned about the lifting of three levels? Okay, are we more concerned about the coverage or more concerned about the listing? Thank you because he said it and then you backed off you're like no. No, I want to be right. So let's address the lift first, since that's our main concern. Okay, so we know that we'll be using something plus something else and then flex developer. Okay. So that's the very top portion. These are all of our color options that we have, and this is what we'll be going over as a group together, so go ahead and take a look at nine and for me please end 9, n, 9n, so you'll notice that 9 n on the right-hand side Of the rectangle it says, Thomas ok, does everybody see that so when a shade says tones, it means it comes in dem eye and in permanent, not just in tones makes sense that way. It'S one slot sharp for both categories, not to separate okay. Now, if you look at 10 edge, you'll notice, it does not say tones. That means it comes in permanent, only got it okay. So now, when we're wanting to take our level 6 to level 9, we need 3 levels of lift, which is great. We also want a cooler result. So what is the coolest option that we can do? Is a blue, the coolest, a blue violet, a violet of age? What'S the most actually option that we can do a blue okay, so in a waxy of yours and a lock see that would be an a our ash? Is a blue base now, what's different or what's exciting about our ash? Is that our fashioned shades do not have any brown in them at all, so our ash series is chest: blue, that's it! Okay! Why is that a good thing to not have brown really think that, because you're on the right track, but your your what'd, she say she said so it won't be so difficult to take off. But I know where she's going with it so that it'll be easier to control the work because we're not putting any warmth in right if we have brown in the. But what is brown made of red, yellow and blue right so we're trying to lift to an ash State? We can't add in there, otherwise we're constantly trying to remove what we're putting in okay. So that's why our fashion sheets, if you look at the chart from the B, all the way through to the GG all of those shades we consider fashion because they have no brown background in them at all. Okay, so that means our ashes are just blew. Our violets are just violets, our reds coppers golds. There'S no brown there to dull anything out. Okay! Does that make sense, so we want to live to a 980. So what do we think we're going to use on this client if ash is the coolest option that we have and you want to be a level 9 ash? What'S part of our formula going to be 9a? Thank you. Okay. Now, we are mildly concerned about her 20 % gray right. So whenever we have somebody that less than 50 % gray, we just need one quarter of the formula to be gray coverage. Okay, what is the coolest gray coverage that we have? You have N and n, for course, resistant hair na, which is a natural plus added blue, or we have NT, which is natural with added tan or gold. So say that again na. So we'll do a 9 and a so 9 + 8 + 9 a, and we only need a quarter of it to be great coverage to raise two ounces or grams houses. Okay, so we would do one quarter ounce of 9 na three quarter ounce of 19. Now something that's also a little different about along C. Is that? Because we are a low ammonia color option, our developers are used a little differently. Okay, so 10 volume, when thalaaq C is going to give you 100 % gray coverage. When you are staying at same level or going darker, 20 volume is going to give you great coverage, and one level of lift 30 volume is going to give you great coverage and two levels of lift and 40 volume is going to give. You great coverage and three levels of lift okay. So having said that, we need three levels of lift: what developer choice? Are we gon na use 40 volume? Now she also wants to be a 9a. So would we use the white 40 volume or the blue blue? So 40, Oh perfect, that's pretty simple right! A quarter of her hair is gray, so a quarter of it needs to be great coverage. Yeah. Those three quarters needs to be what she actually wants to be 40 volume blue for the lift. Is anybody get sprayed that I just said use 40 volume? Thank you for your honesty, only be afraid of 40 volume or be cautious, a 40 volume with Lightner or or bleach. Okay with color. You don't have to be nervous about it. When did we determine earlier that ammonia does okay, so what so ammonia opens the cuticle, then developer. Does what does what you're on the right track? It oxidizes oxidizes the artificial pigment to our natural pigment, but it also breaks apart our natural pigment to lighten it. Okay, so we don't need to be afraid of 40 volume when we need lift. We only get a little cautious of it when we're using, lighter, because lighter with 40 volume is a whole nother level than color, with 30 volume, okay color with 40 bottom. I'M sorry! So when we want to give somebody significant lift, if we don't use the appropriate developer, it's not going to lift to the level that we want and then we're going to be upset because we would have. Let'S say this was well at you. Guys, probably would have gone for 20 volume correct right, because that's our safety there's a few sellers yeah, but 20 volume in Wella is going to give you one to two levels of left. Still, it's not going to give you three or four right, but as stylist as beginning stylist, that's are scary, like like. I know a lot of silence that don't even like to use 30 volume because they're like oh, no, I never used more than 20. Well, that's everybody's brassy they're, using a level 9 on somebody that you're only looking into a 7 and you're expecting you know a light blue to cancel orange. It'S not gon na happen right, so we need to live to the appropriate contributing pigment in order to be able to cancel it with the level that we're losing, because when we list, let's say we're lifting to a level 9, what's the underlying pigment at a level 9, anybody know offhand light yellow right, so if we're lifting to light yellow at a level 9 and we're using a level 9 ash, that means that there's enough ash in this formula to neutralize a light, yellow. Okay, that's why it's important! We lift all the way up to that light, yellow if we were to use 20 volume with the Loxy on a level 6 we're lifting to a level 7. What'S the contributing picking out a level 7, it's yellow orange or like more like a gold right. So, if we're on a level 7 and we're all in agreement, we're super goals in we're like an orange yellow right, because level 6 is orange, so orange yellow. So this would be the difference between 24. First 40 is our little bit of blue pigment and a level 9 that can control light yellow. Is that going to be able to control, yellow or orange, yellow? No right, it's only going to neutralize level 9. It'S going to only neutralize yellow. What do we? Let that is every hairdressers, most common mistake and yet their biggest fear at the same time. Okay, that is what we battle all day every day, because people are so nervous to use a higher volume developer because they think it's going to be damaging to the hair. It'S not it breaks. Our red melanin are yellow melanin apart to get it out of the hair so that when we neutralize, we don't have an overabundance of once to neutralize out. Okay, let's do the fur texture was course I would drop a level. So the question: the question is that her texture was coarse versus medium. Then I would drop a level of color, because coarse hair needs more pigment to make it reflects like a level nine right. It would need a level eight. Instead, my developer choice would still be the same, because I I would need that so same level of lift. Essentially so I would just move to an eighth MA and an eighth day if my texture was fine, could I maybe back down my developer to a thirty sure sure, but all hair color brands are formulated for medium texture just as a rule, they all are okay, So we do have those exceptions with texture, but that's why I said: let's just assume everybody is medium because it makes it easier for argument's sake. Let'S do another one that that you guys wanted to do. We want to do the same natural level, so she still has six. She still wants to be a nine eight, but let's say her percentage of gray is higher. What do we want to do? Fifty you'll see where I'm going in just a minute with that. So sixty percent gray, hmm, the reason why I didn't take your 45, which thank you, but I didn't take it because the rule is the same as long as they're less than 50 % gray. It'S a quarter, great coverage to three-quarters! That'S why um! So now we 50 % gray or 60 % gray the amount of gray coverage that we need in the formula changes. Okay, so we're still gon na do two colors in there are we still lifting three levels? Yes, so what developer choice? 40? Are we still staying blue, okay, okay, and does she still want to be an eye day? Yeah, okay, so we're still gon na use a nine day. Our coolest great coverage is still the night na, so we're still going to use that. The only difference here is if our client is 20 % grade versus 60 is now we're doing. Half of the formula needs to be great coverage and the other half needs to be fashion. The only difference. That'S super easy right, some brands, if you're 25 % grades a quarter of the formula if you're 50 % grey sequel, part 75 % gray. It'S 3/4 great coverage to 1/4 fashion. What do you do if it's hundred percent right, you want to put great coverage, you have no none of your fashion. What do you do then, right? So it gets really confusing with us if it's less than 50 % grey 1/4 of the formula, great coverage 3/4 fashion, if it's 50 % or higher equal parts, that's it super super super simple. Okay! Now, let's say that she is 100 % grey because you will get these people, so your client is 100 % grey. Does her natural levels still matter? I think yes, exactly it's funny, because people will say yeah, I'm a but she's under percent way. She has a natural left right, so now her natural level doesn't even matter she wants to be a 98. That'S it right so now. What do you think we would do in this instance say that again, equal parts anytime, that it's 50 % or higher equal parts? Great coverage with fashion okay, so we're still doing half nine and a half day. Remember what I said about our fashions: they have no what brown no brown in the formula. So if I put a nine a straight on the gray hair, it'll literally be like a blue light: blue okay. So we do nine eight equal parts of nine and eight, but now because we're not lifting any longer we're going for depositing because whites to a level nine is going darker and what did I say we get great coverage and level and level or darker ten-volume. That'S very different, coming from Wella, okay, so that's another point of difference for you just you like them, because you know yes, yes, that's why we don't have blue developer in a boy than ten volumes were just depositing, so we're not exposing 4-minute percent gray. What'S another one, any other clients are all of our clients, nine eight mourners yeah and then how I would we'd have to use Lightner yeah yeah, because anytime you want to lift more than four levels. You have to go into Lightner instead of color. Yes, you can use color to tone with after right, but we would have to go in with Lightner. You can choose white blue ultra quickly free hands whichever, but you would need to lift first same thing. If you're, if you're going from level 5 or darker, then you want to be a level 10. If she just doesn't want to solid color hair, she was wonderful, a big throw my good color enough, yeah, okay! So, what's our starting level, six, six, okay and what levels does she want to happen there and then what what tonal value just for Tom purposes when we go through it all, so she wants an eight something and then with a ten. So maybe like an a GV mmm-hmm, okay, so a GV with what attend, make a choice: crack ten, a ten, a okay. So pretty common. Actually, so what would you guys do first? Would you give her all one solid color first, would you go in and do our highlights first, what would you guys do light and first can I ask why no I'm not saying you're wrong. I'M is that anyway. Okay, so so that's actually a really good response. So the question is: if we were going from a level 6 to 8 GV with balayage pieces of a 10 a when we do her color first and then do her Lightner or like and then left your color either way. Whichever you choose is exactly right. You can do it in whichever order and the response was she'd rather do the lightener first, because then she's not fighting through with the color. She just put in okay. Great, absolutely keep in mind, though, that we're lifting to this color we're not depositing. So if you wouldn't be fighting that much, but you would be double processing, so yeah that's a good option. So let's do her balayage first, so balayage, where what do you guys want to hypothetically use I'll try? Why do we want seven levels? We want nine levels. We want to be a little slower and steady wins the race. Do we want that? Racehorse? Quick, Oh clay, like so our free hand? Okay, for you guys later that's free hands, not free man, yeah, okay and with our free hand, Lightner we're gon na use. 30 ball, just because we can okay, so we're gon na ball, Yosh first with freehand Lightner, and get that color placement in there that we want okay, then she's the level six so lifting to a level. Ten isn't going to be that hard, let's say process! For thirty minutes, right anywhere up to thirty minutes, okay, so we've all Yost. First now we're gon na go in between and do her color okay. And what would we do for her color? Her percentage of gray is, let's say, zero, because this is one of you guys, so we're not fighting a percentage of gray, but we do want to be a gold violet when we lift from a level six to a level eight. What are we exposing works, but so what's what's a contributing battle of leyte, yellow gold like a real like a yellow, eight gold right? So we want to cancel out so we're going from a six which is orange, we're going to an eight which is yellow orange. Okay, so in an 8 GB we do have gold, we have somewhere, but we also have violated you to it. So we definitely need to neutralize some of this right. So what do we? What do we need? A neutralize out? You know we need a new tries out some orange okay. So what could we use to neutralize orange? What cancels out orange blue yeah and then for the yellow, we're not too concerned because AGV has warmth in it already? Okay, so our formula would be 8a right. We'Re all in agreement, sorry Orange has something in it. What can the other part of our formula be? Maybe where she wants to be right, because we need some fun in it too. So equal parts - 8a +, 8 GV. If we just went in there with 8 GV we're adding all of this to all of this okay, and what would happen is the yellow would be neutralized by the violet and we'd be left with orange and cold and then she'd be really warm. She'D be like very brassy, ok, so that's why we're mixing this to neutralize some of this out. First. Does that make sense why we went about it that way, and even though it's like? Oh, I really need to think about this. Yes, please think about it, because this is usually where people go wrong so say: oh, you want to be an 8 GV, I'm just going to use that HEV, because that's what my client said she wants to be right, but we don't think about what we're exposing When we're lifting okay - so that's why we choose 8 GV with 8a, now we're lifting two levels. So 20 volume lifts 130 volume lips, 240 volume lifts 3. So what developer would we use 30 volume plus 30? So this would be half ounce. This would be half ounce. This would be one and a half ounces, because developer is or color is one part color one and a half parts developer, so you're saving a little bit on the back end to monetarily. Okay. So now we're painting this everywhere that her foils aren't so we've free-handed her in between are these pieces. Then, when we rinse her all off, this has to process sorry anyway. This has to process 30 to 40 minutes right. We got her all done now. We have to address her 10, a slices, so we're already lifted on a level 10 and what's the contributing pink matter, level. 10 hail, yellow. Okay. So what can we use to turn her out? Yeah 10a right? We can use 10a with a little bit of 9a. Even if we really wanted to make sure that she's, nice and ashy, okay, so tone or tones, I should say formula - is 10a with 701 heart-to-hearts. You guys feel good about that. Okay, could you lift all of her color first and then go back in and balayage? Absolutely if you, because I don't like painting in between foils, I don't. I hate it right. If you don't like painting in between foils, you can lift all of her hair first and then go back in in place her light pieces and then glaze at the very end. If you want to foil her first paint in between and then glaze whatever way you want to do it, okay, you guys feel confident without formula we address both issues. We addressed neutralizing versus what we want to see with the amount of lift, giving her light pieces and toning good to go. So that would be a really good formula for her. Do we have any other ones? We do that red pick. A good rub: red, copper, mahogany, something yeah are those the same is ready for the read-a-thon, so six are right. Okay, so let's do let's do six our papers, ravish me and rev it up just fun. To say: let's go natural felony. Can we do alright I'll see your I'll, see her level to natural and then we'll move into gray, so we're gon na say no? Will leap red hair, oh great right now, okay, so she's a natural I will do she wants to be 6rk, but do you want to work on first valid for choice, contributing pigment or a jewel? Okay? So when we're going from a two to a six, what do we expose me? Please think that orange at a level, six red orange would be five and red all the way down to one okay, so we're exposing orange. So what do we need in this formula or do we need anything? She wants to be a red copper? Does she want to be a little more copper than red? That'S to say: does she want to be a little more copper than red? Does she want to be more rather than copper, copper than red? So maybe we don't need a neutralize anything! That'S saying that her hair is virgin. Yes, yeah anytime. If I put an existing level, then that would be color treated that natural level, yes virgin hair. So if she wants to be more orange red rather than red orange or she just wants to be more fiery, then we don't need to neutralize this out. We want to work with this okay, so then we don't need to add anything. So we can simply go in with 1 6 RK, so 6 RK and then what developer choice we're lifting or levels. So we do I'm glad that you brought a level 2 into the mix. We are lifting four levels which we cannot do with our 40 volume right because it lifts how many three so we need an extra level of clicked and your salon technical guides. If you go to, let's see where are you a little thing? Little oh page, seven you'll see maybe page eight, because some of them are the friends thinking you wanted. Some of them are when I had but page seven review, HP, you'll, see a product called boost. Okay, but boost is is boost, is basically ammonia into okay, ammonia and creamed corn. So what you can do is put more boost in the formula to get an extra level of lift okay, so that would be ideal in this struggle situation, where we need a little bit more help getting up there. Okay, another thing that you could do so well: let's go: let's go here: first, 6rk fastest, so we'll do one half boost one half six arcade for t-ball, white or blue, like white. It'S gon na need a cancel. Anyone who she wants to be she's. The Holy Grail client, that wants to be warm because most people are like hey, you know, bright orange is already a big step, but so this is like that perfect situation, so half the formula would be boost. The other half would be what we want to see and then with one and a half parts of our developer. Okay, now, let's say that she wanted to be more red and copper. How would that change our formula? I say it loud and proud: violets can sell for orange, so you are, let's just ignore it. What cancels not orange again! Oh blue! Yes, I knew where you were you. Your eyes are saying blue, but your lips are saying violet. So what could we put in this formula then to help neutralize some of that some 6a right, because we need to create a canceling formula for this orange. She wants to be red orange, not equal parts, not mostly orange right, so we need to cancel this with ash, so we can do one quarter. 6A. I'M sorry. 1/4. 1/4. 1/4. My dad with 3/4 6rk. That will give us some neutralization of that orange, but still leave a little bit in there. But it's not going to look too hollow necessarily either we don't want, because orange and blue make what right ground exactly because orange is red and yellow blue is just blue red, yellow blue maker. We don't want too much brown in this formula that it dulls it out yep, because we're still lifting the same amount of levels and then you can put in here boost if you wanted to okay. So this is still an ounce, so we still need equal parts with boost or or you can do mid lengths and ends with 40 volume, Duan vase with 30 volume. That way, she's a little like one level deeper on her base, a little more fiery towards mid links and ends. That might be a good option too right. Why would that be a good option for her exactly it'll melt into her natural a little bit more, because we would have only listed two or not lifted two. We with the three levels right instead of lifting for so it'll, be one level closer to her natural it'll, be slightly softer, grow out for her yeah. You could use 30 after you know, like that, half inch and then 41 through the mid lengths and ends. But your traditional going, lighter application, so half inch off scalp through mid links and ends go back in with 30 on the scalp and it'll be nice, and even for you, okay, let's say that she's not a level two any longer. But let's say that her grade. It'S a situation mMmmm, okay, so let's say she is a level five and what's her great percentage between 45 and 70. Ok, let's start, let's start for argument's sake, let's start with 30 and then we'll go up to 60, so 30 % gray. Do we want to work from developer choice, first, tray coverage or fashion, so we have three working parts here. No great, there's no wrong answer. What do you want to work on free stuff, great harrods? Okay? So when we're doing a warm color, what do we want for our great coverage? A warm great coverage, right, auntie, okay, so 6nt because of her percentage, it's less than 50? What percentage of the formula has to be great coverage a quarter now? What we could put a neutral - yes, we could cut a neutral in here, but it wouldn't help support the warm that would just be adding brown. So you do have that option if the client doesn't want to be so warm, maybe they like liked. The idea of this, but you know that they don't really like the idea of this. They want to be a little more subtle. You can do the 6 and then said absolutely, but the 6 NT will just keep that warm theme to the red, copper. Okay. So now, what do you want to work on a great percentage with I'm sorry with developer choice, fashion 20, volume? Okay, why 20 exactly? We just need one level going from the 5 to a 6. So now the other portion is going to be when she actually wants to see which is 3/4 6rk, so 3/4 6r, for what she wants. 1/4 great coverage for what we need. We need one level of lift so 20 volume. Could you use blue sure? Could you use white sure do use blue it's just gon na cancel out a little more for you. You know want to you, want it as warm as possible. Do it this way? Okay! Now, if her percentage of great changes to 50 %, how does this change yep equal parts, so 1/2 ounce of 6nt 1/2 ounce of 6rk? That'S the only difference that you have to do. That'S it super simple right now. Let'S say that this changes she's course / resistant. If you look at your for great coverage, families on the left-hand side of your swatch chart the very top underneath the base. It says natural, intense natural, natural tan, natural ash, right which one of those four is for resistant or coarse, gray, hair and then the other three are fine to medium texture. So n n is for coarse resistant hair. That'S what we need. So this changes to n n O course great coverage options. What else could you do if their course resistant, Jo your hand that Marie just oh okay, what's an easier, an easier method? If the hair is coarse, do we go up a level or down level down a level? So let's say we didn't have six and n okay and let's say that she's she's still course resistant. So if we're going down a level, what would our new color option be 5rk and what would our new great coverage be? We could do exactly. You could do 5nt. What else could be do here, and I would be you, sir: that's what we could also do. 5N right, because that would give us a little more coverage to on that course resistant, hair, okay, Janice. So if we're working with course resistant hair, we have a few options. We can drop a level of color. We can use the nm series instead or we can get into pre softening, which I don't want to go super into it. But you do have this bad boy and it does go over on how to avoid pre softening. But how does still crease often, but in the same formula, so it's not a two-step situation. If you look under Advanced Options for covering gray white hair, it does tell you some good good options and there these are last resort situations. These are when you tried what we're doing as a group, and it was a little too translucent. Then you can request not the big guys. Okay, now, let's say that her gray percentage is 90 and let's go back to just medium texture, because that's nicer so medium texture, her great percentage is 90 okay. So let me ask you a very you're right. Let me ask you a very good question when we're working on somebody with 90 percent great white hair. Are we more concerned about lifting this one level, or are we more concerned about covering that 90 percent gray? Yes, so what developer would be used here? Yes, why are we using 10 volume because you wanted response agency? Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. Yes, we are going from a 5 to a 6, but 90 % of their hair is white. Okay, so that 10 % that's a level 5. It'S not going to be seen in a sea of white hair okay, so we would rather cover this 90, then lift that 10 % okay, so we're gon na go in there with 10 volume. Absolutely this is every situation where somebody is 90 percent gray: 10 volume. Okay and then we still need to do great coverage in there and we still need to do her desired color personality with the percentage B according to 3/4. Would it be equal parts? What would we do equal parts because we're still above 50 %, so we still need primarily even mixture of gray coverage with fashion. So then we do half now 6rk half ounce. We could do 6 NT. If we wanted to. We could do 6 a 10 because she does have a high percentage. We'Ll leave that up to you as a stylist. Does this make sense to guys feel safe? If a client came in and asked you for something crazy, would you know how to break it down? Yeah, would you really that's awesome? Okay, good, okay, yes yeah! You could do the question is: could we use the 6 n n instead? Absolutely it's totally up to you as a stylist. What great coverage you would want to use the ante? Oh keep it! The warmest the NA will neutralize a little bit for you, which might be what you want when you're lifting right, the NN will give you more of that opaque, solid coverage and the end would just be adding a little bit more Brown. Instead of supporting more that's heck, what is the red? Copper? Copper for us means. Okay, I don't know that's fine up. Are you think Amy yeah? I knew it right. Okay, you want to do any more together. Oh there's a button just like someone say no, so they just want to change their tone yeah. If one is eight gep, okay, but they say they just oh okay, are you guys cool? If this is the last one, because they've had you a little extra time? I know you 12 bend it over okay, so they're natural level is eight and they're a gold violet, and they want to be an 8g yeah, okay and a great percentage, five per second all right. So she wants to be warmer than what she has now super simple solution. Can I blow your mind what cancels violent yeah? No so, and we need to cover a little bit of gray. So what could we do? Eight and T done yeah because we already have the gold in there. We have gold in here we're cancelling this gold. With this pilot, we have great coverage and we have two goals: Denzel and then we just use ten ball. Did you expect it to be more difficult, but you know why it's because this needed to be canceled out. That'S it! Thank you if she wanted to be an ing instead, okay, so now starting at 8 GB. This is change to 9. Okay. So now we're going from a level of 8 to level 9. So what developer? 24? Okay? What do we do? 9 empty? What else easy right? Because this is neutralized by this tan, which is really gold, and then we're left with prey coverage covering her weight? And this is what you'll see and how much of me one corner to 3/4 yeah, because she's 30 % 35 % okay, you guys, will be like counteracting tones like all day. It'S so fun doing it. This way - and just I don't know like this, is I wish every salon had white board it's because then we could really like work through it. You know - and this long instead of like in the background like trying to set your nose, many one right up. Well, what you can do, too, is, if you laminate the swatch chart and get dry erase markers you can draw like do it on there. Yep might be good cuz. We have fun. Yes, are you inspired? Are you all gon na go file oxy and become educators for us? Well, I'd like to thank each and every one of you for participating. It was super fun. My most favorite thing to do ever is teaching a beauty school like. So thank you for having me. We are hopefully going to come back a second visit and maybe some model workshops.