Ombre Color On Natural Gray Hair

Hey guys crystal here from elite haircare, usa. So today i am doing a retouch color on my client, who is natural and also salt and pepper. She has about an inch and a half to two inches of new growth at the scalpel root level. So we are going to warm up her roots and then also retouch the color on her ends. Now the color that she wanted initially was more of a auburn, slash, copper, color. You will later see on what the result is, but i wanted to do this video, because it was the perfect opportunity for me to talk to you guys a little bit about hair color and how it works. So i am using pravana chromosome colors on her hair. To start i went ahead and put the color on her ends. First, the reason i did it on her ends. First, is because color processes with what we call body heat. So if you put the color on the roots, first you'll get something that we call hot roots, because the roots will sometimes overlift, because the roots are your or you're so close to what we call the heat zone that you increase. The amount of developer or the volume of that developer, naturally with just your body heat so how to alleviate, that is to start on the ends and then put your color on the ends. First and the last area that you will touch will be the root area and then you'll be able to process for the full processing time. This technique is also great for those clients who have very sensitive scalps, and they also want hair color, because sometimes hair color can become a little bit too warm, and then it ends up not working the way that you really wanted it to so now that i've Applied the color to her ends, i'm applying a level 7 n to her root area, and i did also um use a lower volume. Instead of me, using a 20 volume, i used a 10 volume because i know that 10 volume on the scalp almost works as a 20 volume, and it is also ideal for gray coverage. Now, let's talk a little bit about her ends. If you notice her end, color has changed slightly reason being is, i did add, a little bit of lightener to the mixture of color. The reason i did that is because i wanted to boost her hair color about a level or two more, because i noticed that it was not processing in the fashion that i wanted it to now. You'Ll see towards the end that the color did not come out extremely bright. It came out nice and subtle, but that actually was not the color that we were going for reason being is her. Hair was extremely resistant which you'll see later on and her ends did not want to lift as high as i wanted them to, so they only lifted about maybe a level or two compared to where she already was. Was that an epic fail? Absolutely not. We had already discussed this when we first started the color process as to what was happening to her ends, and i think the culprit may be. She used a certain type of color at some point and it just it didn't allow for us to really open that. Cuticle as much as i wanted it to be open to develop that color, but there are some products out there that you can use to do what we call pre-softening, um or pre-soaking, or something of that nature. In her case, i did not do that um. I just went through and just went ahead and - and we just made it work now when you're doing what we call a shadow root. Some people like to wait until they've already done the ends and then they'll go through and put the color on the roots. In my case, i did not do that reason being is. I know that gray hair is missing a pigment and that pigment is typically red or copper. So when you put a dark color on that area, typically that area likes to or anything that's salt and pepper or gray it likes to draw in the base color first, so it really worked out that i got a chance to slightly mix in a little bit Of that copper color that she's already missing from the beginning, color that we put on her ends and just feather it into the hair, and it allowed me to not have to do two or three processes to get that color to really adhere the way i wanted It to so now we are using our frizz tamer and shine serum to go through and soak out our hair. This is the color that we came out with. As i said, it was about a level or two higher than where we had already started, but we did want it to be a little bit brighter. It just did not work out that way. Unfortunately, color is temperamental and i do not jeopardize the integrity of my clients hair just to bring them up to a level that may not be even achievable after just trying it out. Typically, you don't really want to try it out either. You definitely want to make sure that you do a strand test or a patch test which in this case i did not. So please do not follow my mistake, but i always suggest definitely going to a professional whenever you're getting a hair color service and they in turn will determine you know what is the best way to approach the color that you want now for her silk out. She is fine textured, so it i could actually soak her in a lot larger sectioning than i normally would and i'm using the h2 pro titanium one inch flat iron um, which actually is my go-to for almost everything at this point. But if you have like a babyliss prima or something of that nature, you're definitely able to use that now. What i'm doing is i'm also curling her. At the same time, i'm doing what we call a textured press, because during the process of us soaking her, we decided that she wanted to have some loose slash, curls waves or whatever we wanted to call them. So, instead of me just soaking her 100 and leaving it straight, we decided to do some loose curls. So at the beginning i did start silking and then once we determined that that's what we wanted to do to her hair in regards to the loose curls. I just turned it into what we call a textured press and i was able to slightly silk but curl at the same time to alleviate us doing too much heat altogether. How you do this, it really just depends on the texture of the client's hair. Now, if you have extremely coarse textured hair, you more than likely will have to silk the hair out first to make it nice and smooth and then go back and curl it in her case with fine textured hair, which um fine textured hair doesn't mean damaged guys That just means that was the texture that you were given by the grace of the lord and that's what you were born with. So that's what you have to deal with um with her texture of hair. I could curl and silk almost at the same time, but the the sectioning or the size of the parting will definitely be on the determining factor of how these curls come out. Now for her hairline. I just went through and used my 3 10 of an inch h2 pro flat iron, which is a ceramic iron. It works really well for the edges and then we went through and used my larger iron to create our little curls there. Now, if you wanted the curls to be a lot tighter like more of a barrel, then you could use a curling iron or you can use your marcels in her case, i did not. If i saw an area that was a little bit too, it wasn't as smooth as i wanted it to be, then i would pre-silk it and then curl it, and in some areas i would just curl it. It just really depends on the person that is doing the style and the press. There is no right or wrong way to do this. I do try to alleviate using as much heat as i possibly can, but for the achieving or the to achieve this style. I definitely wanted to in some areas, especially in the crown soak it out just a little bit, so i am going to um finish curling her hair, and then we will continue on with our tutorial, which i did it that fast you guys. No, but what i'm doing is i'm also giving her a trim. Now i am using a wide tooth comb, but the hair is already silky. So it is very easy for me to be able to trim her through this and, at the same time, we are going to pin curl her hair to keep the life of the curls and she um perspires a lot. So she knew that her hair probably would not last very long, so we wanted to make it and keep it really nice so that she could show her other half don't mind my son who's um standing in the doorway all right. So what i'm doing now is, i just went through and kind of wrapped it slightly just because we were just playing in it just to show you guys what her hair looked like and then we um decided to pin curl it towards the end, and i did Spray a little bit of our goddess polish on her hair, which is a glossifier spray to add shine to the hair and also the heat protectant after the fact. So take note guys of the color take notes of the roots. Her roots are nice and warm, but not too warm, and it has a gradient effect where it goes into her color. I think it came out absolutely amazing, despite the fact that we wanted the ends to be slightly brighter, i loved it. She loved it. Her husband loved it, so it worked out really really well. Now she decided for her to go home that we were going to pin curl her hair, so i'm going to show you guys how we actually do the pin curl, which is really really simple. All we do is take the hair and section it into large sections roll it around your finger place it on the head and pin it. This is going to keep the body and the curls at the same time, and it's not going to make the hair flat. Now, if she wanted it flat, then we would have just wrapped her hair for her to go home, but she wanted to keep the curls. So that is why we did the pin curl instead and then we just put bobby pins now the bobby pins. You want to make sure that you turn the piece that flicks up on the end of the pin. That part should be face down when you're doing this pin curl thing reason being is, it will leave somewhat of a line and also depending on how long they keep the pins in their hair. That could also create a line as well. So just be careful when you do this, especially when you're doing it with your natural hair, because that fish hook is not easy to get out now for her front, i went ahead and split that into two and pin curled her crown as one and then pin Curled the side as another is this the cutest style to walk around with nope? Absolutely not, but does it keep your curls and preserve that body? Yes, it does, and a little bit of reversion at the roots is going to help the style even more so i know when she pulls it out, she'll swell slightly at the root area and that hair will be nice and cute. Alright guys, please don't forget, to subscribe to my channel thumbs up this video and comment and tell us what you thought about the color and, if you've ever done any type of pin curl style like this and how it came out.