Ash Brown Hair Transformation Tutorial | How To Remove Unwanted Brassy Tones
- Posted on 23 January, 2020
- Trending
- By Anonymous
Here's another in-salon hair color tutorial for you guys! My new client came in with a very warm balayage and she wanted to be darker, but very ashy. Our goal was "kind of silver, but still brunette" - so here's how I did it! It's a really hard color to capture accurately on camera unfortunately, so it looked ten times better in person, but hopefully you get the general idea and still learn something! :)
TONING FORMULAS:
8PA Paul Mitchell The Demi (pre tone)
3A + 4N (1:1) Paul Mitchell The Demi (midstrand)
6A + splash of silver + splash of lavender Paul Mitchell The Demi (ends)
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Earrings: Urban Outfitters
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CAMERA:
Canon SL2 (tutorials)
Canon g7x (vlogs)
EDITING SOFTWARE:
Final Cut Pro X
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ABOUT ME
Hi! I'm Sam and I'm a professional hairstylist from Pennsylvania. Here on my channel I post a variety of videos related to beauty and my life in general. I love teaching and inspiring others, whether that's through a hair tutorial or an advice video.
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Hey guys welcome back to my channel so today we're doing an Ashley brown color transformation and I'm so excited to share the process with you. So this was a new client. She had been getting her hair, balayage somewhere else and she felt like the tone. Just wasn't what she was looking for. She said she hated the warmer more caramel tones and she wanted something darker and more ashy, so something kind of like this kind of a silver but still technically Brown is what she said now, if you guys saw the toning video, I posted a few videos back. You know that, even though the color she wants is darker than what we're starting with, we still need to lighten her hair to remove all of that warmth and get her as ashy as possible. So I sectioned her hair into three sections two in the front and then one in the back. She said she was happy with the placement of her balayage, so I just took horizontal partings and I tried to follow her current highlight pattern as best as I could. If I was creating my own pattern, then I would have probably done some V partings, some more like diagonal partings, but what I'm trying to follow someone else's work just doing horizontal partings is the easiest thing for me personally. So I just continued this all the way up her head in the back, just picking up the pre latent pieces and overlapping them. By the way, the lightener I'm using is sink or lift by Paul Mitchell and I'm starting with 15 volume in the back and then as they work. My way towards the front. I slowly increase my developer strength so that everything will process evenly for the topmost pieces. In the back and the front pieces, you'll notice - I'm not following her previous, highlight pattern as much because I felt like it was really low. It had already been several months since the last time she got her hair lightened. So I didn't want it to look too grown out, so I just brought it up a bit higher and by this point I've increased my developer to 20 volume. I think I ended my last section using 25 volume, so I let her hair processing the foils for about 20 minutes or so, and then I decided to put her under low heat for the remainder of the time and as you can see, I mainly pointed the Heat on the front section, since those were the ones that I finished with, not only do the lightener sit on those sections for less time than the back, but remember I also brought the blonde up higher, so I needed a little boost to break through her darker Base color - and they don't remember how long she was under the heat in total, but I made sure to keep checking on it every 10 minutes and as soon as it looked like it was around a level 9. I rinsed her out. Next, I decided to pre tone her hair, since we had just lightened it. She had all that underlying pigment which, of course, is gon na be warm and brassy. So I wanted to neutralize that first, before applying her silvery color anytime, we were doing an unnatural color. Like a fashion, color like blue rose, gold or silver pre toning is super important to make sure you're, starting with a clean canvas. So you got the proper results. So here I'm toning, her with Paul Mitchell, the Demi in 8pa. From there I decided to do a color melt. You can't really tell them these clips with her hair wet, but the ends were definitely lighter and more ashy than the mid strands, because the ends were obviously already pretty light when we started so to make sure we had a really nice blend and to cover over Everything I did a darker color on the mids and a lighter color on the ends. So for her mid strand, I did equal parts 3a with 4n, also from Paul Mitchell to Demi. Looking back, I should have just did the 3a, since she didn't want to see any warmth at all, but out of habit, I did a natural shade anyway. I combed through that and then on the ends. I did 6a with a splash of the silver and a splash of lavender and I made sure to really blend everything together and I let that process for about 15 minutes - and here is our final result. It'S a cool color because, depending on the lighting, it can look more Brown or more silver. So that's it for this video. Thank you guys so much for watching. If you'd like to see more tutorials like this, make sure to give the video a thumbs up and subscribe to my channel and hopefully I'll see you in my next video bye,
Comments
guacgirl: This is good to see because alot of tutorials are of causacian women whose hair tends to be lighter naturally. I work with dark haired ethnic women so I need videos like this. You did a good job
Amber Rose: I love your videos because you have realistic clientele! I’m a newer stylist as well and it’s so refreshing to see videos where you really discuss the process and even the parts that don’t turn out in your favor or things you learned during the service! Ugh yes a million times yes I love your vids and vibes as always ✂️❤️
Crystal Montano: These videos are so calming and satisfying! Going on my maternity leave soon, these videos are going to get me through the boring pangs
Dominique G: When you do these videos you should include how long the process was and how much you charge personally for it just so everyone who is looking into getting their hair done gets a general idea! Just a cool thought!
Swtmess: the ends of your client's hair is what i wanted to get done with my mine but my stylist just gives me the brassiest blonde and tells me that's what ash looks like despite how many pictures i show her!! great work sam xx
leighakayleen123: Hi Sam! I just wanted to say how much I look forward to your videos! Seriously, they brighten my day and are a part of my evening routine whenever you post. Thank you for doing what you're doing! Beautiful result here. See ya in the next video!
Bree Kiser: Was looking for this exact tutorial thank you so much!
Darby Stewart: I love your videos so much! Beautiful after result. Keep up the amazing work
Zzz: I love watching hair stylists and seeing the before and afters, I work for one and I love seeing the transformation, its like magic, you all are so talented.
Laura B: My hair is naturally an ash-brown color. It's cool seeing it become trendy, I feel like for years it's been seen as dull or uninteresting. I'll still keep mine when it fades out of style, but I'll enjoy being on trend while it lasts lol
arm: I'm watching this in bed and it's helping with my major insomnia. You did such a great job.. it looks so beautiful
Luane Ketcherd: Hi Sam. Did you use 3A with 4A on the roots also? Or just the mid ends? Struggling to get no warmth ashy brown roots. I have a platinum balayage/root melt and my stylist can’t seem to get an ashy brown on the roots (naturally I’m a level 5), my ‘ashy brown’ its more like a brassy reddish brown especially in the light every time she does it. Thinking of sending her this video.
M K: I've been battling with something similar, as I lightened my hair 1yr ago and I've been getting comments and noticing my hair turn a reddish color. I hate that, as I had spent so much money on getting my black hair to brown.
Alexis Lara: The end result is so beautiful! I was wondering if you knew of any products that do not have such a strong chemical smell? I’m currently 24 weeks pregnant and am itching to dye my hair because it’s color has worn out and I am at a level nine brassy blonde and just need a change
Best Friend In Your Thread: Loved this! Nice work
Danielle Wiser: Beautiful!! You go, girl!!
Jacqueline Villarreal: Loved it!!!
Mystery Ramirez: Quick hair question... I have a client coming up that usually gets a partial highlight and just decided to get a pretty dark lowlight... would you do a full highlight so it won’t look like a block of brown and then her highlights starting above because she wants a lot of layers...
C V: It’s interesting that the 3 and 4 didn’t look that dark on her previously lightened hair! It looks like a 5!
Jeannie Robletto: Girl!!! You know your shit!! You will own your own salon one day! ❤
Lauren Saunter: love your videos could you have a stylist day where u and the other stylists all do each others hair and you can film it?
Yana Stepkaeva: I had hair exactly like hers in the beginning and wanted that ashy tone. I was able to get it, except it washed out the day after I washed my hair....I was so bummed out.
CheerLovatic102: I just got my hair done a ash level 4 to cool down the warmth in my hair how do I maintain the ashiness in my hair?
ffireinthedark: hi sam!!! how are you? I have this problem... so yesterday i bought my 7.4 to repigment blonde hair. and i bought 6.1 ash... to cancel orange tones. the thing is this ash is green based... not blue based. (i DMed the brand and they answered the pigment was green) so... is it gonna cover the 7.4? should i go change it for a bkue based ash?
CZA: How would correct horizontal partings to v partings in the future? Especially if she becomes a reoccurring client?
V V: Can you explain the purpose of developer and how to use it properly? Can you explain toner as well— specifically for unnatural colors?
Maria McFaul: Im bit confused..if your lifting it up to a level 9..how can you putva level 6 on at the ends without it going green?
Isobel B: Perhaps it's the camera but at 6:35 it looks really warm toned!
Brianna Villarreal: How much would this color of hair cost if I have dark brown long hair + never been dyed before? I’m just asking because I made an appointment at my local color salon and I don’t know how much money I should prepare for this first appointment.
Beth Bonnett: So, if I was to use wella toner.. which would I choose?? Thnx
Rose: you rock!
robert björnesjö: Just me that cant take my eyes away from how greasy the clients halr is the results is stunning tho
Jan Jan: It wasn't at all what she wanted !
Madison😋: Girl you need to highlight me cause my hair is dark ash and it needs highlights
Alli Nelson: where did you get your shirt?!
Kateri Kosar: those toner formulas are permanent , yes?
Mery Mimi: ✨✨✨
Kimberly Cabrera: Hi I just wanted to why did you use lavender and silver? I recently graduated cosmetology school and I want to understand things better.
Ale: Where are you located at hun
Anita Kelly: You should watch and learn Guy Tangs videos because he is just amazing and I make a lot of people happy and make money because I do it the way he does and ÷he shows step by step in all the new ways never have I done any÷ed re SSSSSSSS
Laura Biscevic: