Tutorial | Dark Hair To Light Brown | Full Application + Formulation

So here is the video that has been highly anticipated here is the before to my client, and this is the transition that we will be doing today. The service took a little over eight hours, so this is a long video, so get your popcorn get comfortable. I hope you enjoy this. There were some some bumps in the road, but ultimately everything worked out in the end. So i hope you like this video and don't forget to like and subscribe. You guys can follow me over on instagram at christy at the cottage. Hey guys, so i'm on my way to the beauty supply store right now and if you guys follow my youtube stories, then you already saw like part of this, because i already uploaded there or uploaded this part to that um anyways. So i'm on my way to the beauty, supply store and the client that i'm going to be doing today is probably she's, probably like a level two. Three and i've done her hair before and she has very thick hair and i'm actually really glad that she chopped her hair off, because what she wants done is is even with shorter hair still going to take all day. She. You know that kind of, like the kardashians, how they have that kind of caramelly brown. I feel like that's really popular right now, um. So that's what she wants just kind of that, like kind of a cooler, caramel brown tone so um last night i was literally falling asleep trying to think about. How am i gon na go about tackling this service um? Am i gon na, like bleach out like do a bleach and tone or foil or hair and bleach it like just trying to think about how to go about the service, so um like what toners to use? How light am i gon na lift her? All of this stuff, so i just thought i'd, bring you along the way and kind of show you my thought process through trying to pick out what products to use what toner to use, what developer to use um! I was kind of debating about that last night, because schwarzkopf blind me gets nine levels of lift. I get a really good clean lift when i use that, but i don't know that i want to lift her to like as light as the schwarzkopf will lift her, because i know it's going to sit for a while. So um, i might use like a lesser developer, like maybe 15 instead of 20, or you know, usually when i mean doing really dark hair i'll, take really thin fine sections, but maybe i'll take thicker sections so that they don't lift as much. I just like all those things that make a difference, so um anyways, i'm i'm driving there and i will kind of show you guys what i'm trying to figure out. As i pick out, color whatnot, so um yeah i'll see you at the beauty supply store. Okay, so i'm here at the beauty, supply store and i'm thinking that i definitely want to grab some level seven and eight, because these are kind of like the natural. I think she's kind of wanting to be like right in here, but i think adding a level. Seven, for some depth will be good, so i'm gon na do some seven and eight and then because she's gon na lift so warm. I definitely need some cooler tones and they're also, so i think i'm gon na grab some of the seven i'll do a couple of these seven one or seven one and we'll just start with that. For now - and i know i have some other stuff at this one too - that i'll probably look through oh yeah and i'm also almost out of bleach. So i need more okay, so i just got to the salon - and i just talked to my client and so basically, what i would have to do for her service is go through and basically platinum card, her whole head, leaving the roots out and then let that Process go through and then um bleach out her roots. Let that process tone her hair and then go back through and do some balayage pieces because she wants some areas where it's like, actually more blonde than just caramel um. And so i sat with her and i was talking to her about pricing or whatever, because i know pricing is a big thing, with a stylus not really knowing how much to charge for a service and or even how to talk about it to your client and So the way that i handled it was just i sat down was like look. So let's go over pricing, because this is a really big service and i don't want there to be any like surprises at the end, where you know it's 800 or something like that. So um i just asked her, like you know: do you have a price range that you want to stay within whatever and she she said well, because i cut all my hair off like. Isn'T it going to be less expensive than last time, which i think her last service was like 500, because her hair was very very long and we did a very heavy full um foilage to like a really pretty caramel color, and i told her that um, even Though you chopped your hair off um, we're actually going to be using more bleach than last time, because last time we did a balayage. But this time we're actually going to be bleaching out your whole head and probably using way more bleach than we did last time. Because we have to keep reapplying potentially and then go back through and hit your roots um and we're bleaching out everything versus just balayaging, some of the hair, and so i told her, even though it's shorter, it's they're still two completely different services and each one. You know they're expensive for two for different reasons, so i told her you know i don't know how much it's gon na be, but it's still probably gon na be if we do the full thing, if we bleach out all of your head and then tone, but Then we have to um go through and do the balayage pieces to get some brighter blonde and then tone a second time. I would say that that would probably be around like 750 dollars for how long of a service and all those stuff that we're gon na have to do so. Um, i told her, you know. Maybe we could do a partial or maybe we'd go through and do like a heavy foil. You still have some of your natural in there um, maybe instead of bleaching out your whole head. Maybe we just leave out this section underneath and don't even touch that so we're still bleaching and doing the full service, but we're just really doing from here and above and that's kind of the decision. The conclusion that we came to that it's probably going to be around 500 the same as last time, but um, because i told her we're still gon na have to bleach everything reapply bleach, your roots out wash tone come back where you play again, essentially we're doing Two completely different services in one. So that's where the cost of the service comes from, and i just explained all of that to her so and that's when i said, but we can do whatever it's just. You know whatever you're comfortable with and your decision on what you want to do so she decided that we're just going to leave out this bottom half and still do the whole thing um like on the top half. So i think it's really important to sit down with your clients and talk to them about that kind of stuff, because you don't want to come to the end of the service and they're thinking like oh, my hair shorter. So it should be less expensive. But it's a completely different service than last time. It still requires a whole bunch of bleach and color and all these different steps and processes or whatever. So that's why the price is still going to be expensive um. I know some people are probably going to say why don't you go through with a high lift like a 6aa with like 30 volume or something? And i really don't like doing it, because i feel like there's. No control really of lift. I feel like um, going through with a permanent color, is just gon na expose a lot of warmth and have it be too orangey or too caramelly, and i know you can tone it down, but i feel like whenever i use a high lift on somebody like I'M not going to go through with 40 volume and put it on the roots or 30 volume. Even i don't even like that. So i feel like that's okay, to do a high lift if you're gon na go through and foil the hair um, but because we're doing that solid, i feel like. I just don't like that idea, also because she has previous, like semi-permanent color on her ends from what we did before. I wouldn't want to worry that the ends of her hair aren't going to look as good as like the mid shaft. I hate that word um or her root area. So that's why i want to go through and use bleach so that i can be in control of the lift because she wants to be kind of like a level eight, and i just don't ever. I feel like no matter what, if i use like a 6aa or an 8aa, we're still going to be stuck at, like i feel, like a 6 double ash, really only lifts to a level 5.. I feel, like an eight, probably only lifts to level six, so i feel like i'm, never gon na get as good of lift as i want um than if i just were to use bleach anyways. So sorry, i know this is kind of going on and if you're not a stylist, then go ahead and skip forward or if you don't care about this kind of stuff, that's fine. So i just wanted to give my kind of idea on that type of thing. Anytime, i've used high lift because somebody else recommended it. I used it and it just didn't work out like it would have. If i just would have bleached the hair out in the first place, so um that's what we're going to do for the service today, um. I'M just going to go through also, i want to say i'm usually such a meticulous foiler don't feel like if you're doing a service like this, like don't worry about the detail, work and where the foils are gon na lay and how you're foiling this way to Make sure you get the money piece whatever, because we're lifting the whole head we're not doing anything fancy i mean it is a lot of work, we're not doing fancy foil work where it matters exactly how you position the foils or whatever. So that's going to be something i struggle with today is just throwing the foils in and not worrying about, if they're, perfect or not um, so, and also with dark hair, to get good lift, you usually want to do like very thin fine foils, but because i Don'T want her to lift to a level nine or ten, i'm actually going to take thicker sections today that will leave her. I want to lift her probably to like a level eight, that's my goal: eight and a half or so, and then we'll tone down to be like at a seven so um. Let'S mix i'm going to be using schwarzkopf blondie with probably to start just like 15 volume, 10 15 volume, okay, bye, okay, really fast! Before i get started, i want to show you guys my bowl of bleach, that i'm mixing some people ask how much to do so. This is my bleach and you can see it's a pretty full ball of bleach. That'S because i know her hair is very thick and i'm gon na have to use a lot of bleach to saturate. So, in this case, i feel like it's okay to over mix and do like um a scoop and a half to do scoops and heavy on the developer. If you need to that way, um you don't have to keep going back every like 10 minutes or whatever um again charge for every scoop, whatever that you're using just know that you know this isn't going to last me an hour. This is probably going to last me 30 minutes and then i'll, probably remix, every 30 minutes to keep my bleach fresh to make sure that i have like you know, good lift and everything like that um, i don't like mixing a huge bowl and then using that For my whole foil, because then you know that could take an hour by the time you get to the last oils that you're putting in your bleach is going to be weak and not have much lifting power in it anymore. But because i know our hair is so thick and i'm gon na be reapplying um. I feel like it's okay to use more bleach because it's really not gon na last me as long as what it looks like it's going to: okay, okay, here's my client's before and the way that the light is reflecting off of her hair. It does not even go to show you guys how dark her hair is, and i'm trying to show you how thick her hair is. That'S just like one handful of hair with some clients that would be their whole head of hair and that one handful. So i'm trying to convey to you guys how dark and how thick her hair is. I mean it's literally massive, so we're gon na start by sectioning off her hair and then work on this back section and i'm just gon na make sure that she's, okay with the amount of hair that we're leaving behind because ultimately um you know she wants to Stay within her price range or whatever, but i also want to make sure that she's, okay with the amount of dark that we're leaving underneath at the nape of the neck um. I just want to have you look at this, so this is the hair that i've set aside that we're not gon na. Do i kind of did it at an angle, so that way, it kind of looks more than just you know straight across so go ahead and just check and make sure that you're, okay with how much hair there is left behind, is that okay? Is that too much? Is it not enough? That should be fine? Is that okay? Okay, all right, so everything looks good, so we're just going to secure this, and i'm also going to take some deep conditioner and i'm going to apply this just kind of right. On top of the hair that we're leaving behind, because i know that i'm going to have some foils that are probably going to slide we're using a massive amount of bleach, so i want to protect it from bleeding onto this hair. I want to show you guys the consistency of the bleach that i'm using i'm doing it a little bit thicker, just because i want to make sure that we get really great saturation for how darker hairs and how much lightening that we have to do so. We'Re just going to start off by taking not really thick sections. I am doing them a little bit thicker than if we were trying to go for blonde um, normally with super dark hair. When you're trying to go for blonde. I do like the thinnest little sections that i can, but because we're trying to stay in like a level, eight range um and i don't want it to process too fast - i'm going to take a little bit thicker of a section that way it doesn't lighten up A whole bunch or too fast or whatever. So i'm just going to use my board and you can see that i'm staying probably within an inch away from her roots and that's because we don't want to hit the roots yet because for one i don't want to start from root to end. Because you don't want that to sit on her scalp for so long and then cause irritation, so just to start off we're going to foil within an inch roughly of her roots and foil all the way through the ends. And this will hopefully lighten up her hair. Nice and slow - because this is i'm assuming at this point when i'm applying this is probably going to be in her hair for three hours. That'S why i'm doing this full application? So i want to make sure that it's not lightening too much or too fast, because i don't want to have to rinse it out and then disrupt the rest of the service or my application or whatever so definitely doing a low and slow developer. To make sure that we don't get super fast, lift and then potentially cause damage so um. This is just what we're going to do to start the service off so, and i want you guys to pay attention to how thick of a saturation that i'm doing and how much bleach i'm using per one foil the amount of bleach that i use. You would think that that's gon na last me a long time, but actually it really doesn't get me very far. Only gets me about halfway up this back section of the head. I have a lot of people that have a hard time, lifting really dark hair and i feel like it's because it's two things your section is too thick and you don't and second you don't have heavy enough saturation. I'Ve had a few clients that have really dark hair and they always kind of get stuck in that caramel tone. They'Ve never had a stylist be able to get them to a nice, pretty blonde color in the first session - and i remember one time i was doing this girl's, hair and after processing for about 45 minutes. I went and remixed some more bleach and i went back back through while all the foils were still in her head and i was just checking every single one of them and reapplying bleach and she was like what are you doing and i told her that i'm Reapplying to make sure that we can continue lifting and get a little bit lighter and she's like i've, never had a stylist do that before i'm like what she and she's like no i've never had a stylist go through and reapply bleach, and i was just thinking Like that must be why people are having a hard time getting good lifts with dark hair because they're not reapplying or they don't know to reapply or they feel like. Oh it stopped working. This is the amount of lightness that we can get for this session, but that's not true. If you're kind of stuck at a level, eight don't be afraid if the hair is in good condition to go back through and reapply um just to get it to keep lifting a little bit, get some fresh bleach on there and use smaller bowls when you're mixing. Don'T mix a huge bowl and expect to use that, for the whole service make sure you're only mixing enough to last you for about 30 minutes. So that way, every 30 minutes you can get a fresh bowl of bleach and to make sure that you're getting nice even consistent, lift through your whole application right here. I just really wanted to show you guys how little that bowl really got me. I really only got these few packets of bleach in because i'm using such a heavy amount of bleach to saturate the hair. So i wanted to show you that one little bowl really didn't get me very far and i'm going to show you guys throughout the service. This is my first refill two scoops each and right now, where i'm feeling the foils. I just want to see what the temperature is, if it's feeling hot or not, and if it's starting to process but because we use a lesser developer, it's going to process pretty slow, but i just wanted to double check and see how it was feeling if it Was already starting to feel hot, so that tells me that it's not quite yet feeling warm at all. Actually at this point in the service. So i know that it's not going to process too fast because i'm not using 20 volume, which normally would start feeling a little bit warm at this point. I'M really not going to make you guys sit here and watch four hours of this repetitive application, but i'm thinking i'll show you guys my bowls of bleach and how far i am in my application. So you can see exactly how much bleach i ended up having to use and where i was at that point in the service, and you are really not mistaken - that one bowl of bleach really only got me to this back top of the crown area of the Head, it really only got me that small little section, because we had to use such heavy application. I don't think people realize how much bleach we have to use for these services and that's why the cost is so much and i go over the breakdown of the service for the pricing at the very very end of the video, but just for a heads up For those of you that don't make it through the end of this um video, the extra bowl of bleach cost for this service was roughly 200. That'S how much bleach we had to use - and i almost that 110, that i bought at the beauty supply store, which i'm so glad that i bought it. I ended up using practically that whole tin just for this service, now that this top section is a little bit smaller, i'm just going to start going straight down the middle of the mohawk section. Do now i'm on my third bowl of bleach. My third refill. I should say two scoops, each plus olaplex, with my first initial bowl of bleach, which would be four, so that's still literally eight scoops of bleach, and you can see that it's just this back section right here that i've done and i still have the whole sides In front left to do um - and this is at the point in the service, where i realized that i'm not going to do the sides first, i'm going to continue my way down the mohawk section so right here, i'm actually measuring where um, how large this size Should be because i don't want to extend beyond the foil, because i don't want any drag and then it's not going to get very good lift. Also because i'm going to be going through and moving the foils around and kind of pulling the back to hit her roots later on in the service, i want to make sure that they're not pulling or anything. So, that's why i'm measuring to make sure that everything is going to fit exactly how i want it as we make our way down the center of the mohawk section. I want to add that, at this point in the service is kind of when i want the top to start processing a little bit faster, which is why i decided to start with the mohawk section versus going down through the sides, because the back has been processing. For probably almost an hour and a half - maybe two hours at this point, so i know we're getting some lift. I'Ve been checking it throughout the whole application process. So far - and i don't want this to take too long - so i'm going a little bit heavier when i mix with 20 volume versus like seven volume, because i want it to pick up and have a little bit more speed and better lift to it, especially because We'Re on the top part of the head: it's not gon na incubate as much because it doesn't have all that heat from underneath and all the foils lean on top of it. So that's why i'm gon na start on the top versus the sides, because i really want this to start processing. I'M also going to start taking thinner sections, because the thinner, the section, the better the lift. However, i'm not going to start taking like super thin baby lights or super thin slices or anything, because i don't want this to get too too light. I don't want this to be like a level 9 or 10 or anything i still want it to be like in the eight and a half range, so deciding like how thin or how thick of slices is gon na determine your amount of lift so um, also Because we're going to be pulling these foils back and hitting her roots, you want to make sure that you're not leaving too doing too thick of sections, because you want to make sure that you can saturate the roots good enough when we go back through. At that point of the service, i started working on the front side of my client's face and at this point in the service you want to make sure you tell your client to close their eyes because you're using so much bleach and sometimes it's falling off the Side of the board, or sometimes bleach just flings around you guys, so i made sure to tell her to keep her eyes closed as i was working on this front section just to be safe and also i forgot to mention, but i am now on my fourth Bowl of bleach, i just forgot to show you guys when i um started my application, but i just did this one foil so that top section in the back area was my whole third bowl, and now i'm starting my fourth bowl here you can see the ends Are already pretty light, she's, probably like a level eight through the ends, maybe level nine, not quite uh, but she has some of the dark hair kind of going through the ends for where we weaved her money piece out from the first service that we did so Because i really want to be cautious of her hair not create any damage, i'm trying to weave out those little dark pieces of hair and i'm going to leave all that blonde out. I don't want to overlap as much as possible if i can prevent that from happening. So any of these areas, where you can see, there's a heavy amount of blonde through the ends. I'M not gon na quite yet run the bleach through there. I'M gon na wait towards the end of the application um just to make sure that we keep the integrity of the hair and prevent any damage, but we're just gon na weave any of those dark pieces up. Because again, she really doesn't want any of her natural through the hair at all, so we're just gon na try to pick up those pieces as best as we can. Okay, now that we're starting on the sides of the head, i'm just really quickly going to check through the back section and see how those are feeling if they need to be pulled out. I kind of did a pull test every now and then to see how it feels if it's feeling stretchy or not, and everything still feels good. So what i'm going to do here is i'm going to start on the side and i'm going to go from one side to the very next, because i want to make sure that we have even lift - and i don't want one side to process faster than the Other side, so that's why you'll see me start here then go to the next side. Do another one go to the other side and switch back and forth so um. This is processing. If at any point we need to rinse the foil out, then we can. But if i do one whole side first and then i flip over and do the other hole side, then it would be really hard to rinse out one side versus the next or i don't want one side to process and get a lot lighter than the other Side, so that's why i like going back and forth and making sure that everything lifts at the same exact time. Because if i do like the bottom half of each each section, then i can go through and mix another bowl of just 20 volume or even add a little bit of 30. If i want it to process even faster. But if i do one whole side, then that's going to process faster, then i'm gon na have to go start on the other side and then that might take a little bit longer to catch up where i can always rinse out the bottom half. But then i don't want to you know what i mean like it just gets kind of complicated. In my opinion, if you do one whole half first and then go to the other half, i feel like it's not going to come out as even or if you have to rinse out early, then that makes it a little bit harder to do. I'M just going to continue this up the rest of the sides of the head and then when we get there i'll kind of let it process for probably like 15, 20 minutes or so and then we'll refresh another bowl of bleach and then start hitting her roots. Do we're at our fifth refresh of bleach now and two scoops each so again. This is so much bleach that we're using for the service and at this point, i'm starting to mix 20 volume and just squirt a little bit of 30 in there just to get it going a little bit more to catch up with the back all right. So here's her full application, but wait we're not done. We still have the roots to do so. We'Re gon na let this sit and process, but i'm gon na check everything just to see how it's going if anything needs to be pulled out or rinsed out through the ends. Because at this point, if we have to end up washing everything out, we can and then just go hit her roots separately. While we wash out all the rest of her hair. Do a laplex treatment on the ends, but we don't have to everything feels okay. So we're just gon na let this continue um processing and we'll just do the roots at the same time. Okay, so i just let my client process for about 25 minutes or so just to get her ends, processing a little bit more and now we're gon na go through and do some bleach on her scalp and then i'll check the foils and run through the ends. If there's anywhere, that needs a little bit more of an extra boost, so that's what we're gon na do right now and i don't think that i um had gone over it yet so i used total five additional bowls of bleach with two scoops each so that Equals exactly 12 scoops of bleach total with olaplex and um. The total application took me. Probably i want to say roughly three hours or so okay, so i'm going to go through and i'm trying to figure out at this point like what is the best way to go about her uh root application, because there are some areas in the ends where she Still needs to process a little bit, not a whole bunch, but there is a little bit too much warmth than what we want. So i don't want to pull all the foils out yet um. I want to try to keep this as clean as possible, so i decided that i'm going to start in the back, so i'm going to flip everything forward and try to pin it up out of her face, but again she knows to keep her eyes closed. Okay, so i'm just going to start in this back right here and i'm going to work my way forward and i'm going to just hit her roots and there's a little bit of warmth where the foil line was before from when we first did our application. So i'm going to just kind of bring it down into the line of demarcation just slightly to get rid of that um warmth! That'S there! So i'm going to just hit her roots and i like the way that it works to do this application with the foils, because i feel like it's a lot cleaner. Sometimes, when you have bleach through all the ends, it's kind of hard to like take a comb and like section through and everything. So when you have everything in a foil, all you have to do is just grab the foil and flip it up and do your application, because we didn't take anything too large of a section where you have to worry about splitting these foils in half or anything. Everything'S already sectioned enough to where we can just like hit the roots, and we know that the saturation is going to be good because our sectioning wasn't too big or anything like that. So i like doing my application this way because it stays nice and clean and i can flip the foils over the top of her head and i don't have to worry if anything's gon na really like fall on her face or bleach or bleach flopping around or Getting messy or whatever, because the foil is containing it so um we're just gon na start doing our root application. This way, and at this point i'm only using 20 volume - i don't want to do anything heavier and i don't want it to irritate her scalp. So that's just what we're going to do at this point and now that we have that top section done. I'M gon na pin everything up to the side and it's okay if the foils pull and all of that stuff. Because, for the most part, the ends are contained and processing a little bit more if they need to the root. Saturation is good. So it's okay. If the foils like move around and slip or whatever that's not really a big deal, we're not trying to keep anything like in specific placement or anything like that. If it like, it's, not gon na bleed, it's a full bleach out, so um we're just gon na continue down the back section of her head and i'm just gon na hit the roots work my way down and then on my way back up, i'm just gon Na double check my work again and make sure if there's anything that i miss that i need to reapply on or anything like that, then i'll make sure to hit it. So we're just going to finish our application right now and then move on to the sides and do the same thing. And i want to show you this area right here. Remember when we laid deep conditioner down on her hair at the very start of the video, and you can see that the bleach has gotten on there, but it hasn't penetrated through the conditioner or anything like that. So there's no bleeders in this area that we're going to have to retouch or anything all right now that we're done applying our root color, i'm going to start at the very bottom and i'm going to start laying some foils down to insulate the root area and We'Re going to start pulling foils out and i'm kind of checking the ends of her hair and remember. I said at the beginning that there's like a demi-permanent color from where we toned her hair last time, so some of that area is a little bit brassy. It'S not bad right now or anything, but you'll see that it's just a little bit warmer like when we wash your hair you'll notice that it's a little bit brassier through the ends. But everything looks pretty good generally, so i don't really have to run any more lightner through it, but i always check to make sure so right now, i'm just gon na keep reapplying double, checking my work and then laying some foils across the top just to make Sure that the roots are insulated and processing nicely, and now that we're back up to the very top where we initially started doing our root retouch area, i'm going to start pulling these foils out, but i'm also going to check and see how these foil, not the Foils, however, her roots are processing, i'm going to hit them again with some more lightener just to make sure that everything's saturated it's not drying out or anything. So we're just going to continue this, and also i'm going to start laying some foils across this section too. To make sure that everything is insulated nicely and processing, as it should. Okay, remember those ends that we left out earlier when we were doing around the hairline. Now is the point of the service where we're going to start running some bleach through the ends and we're not going to like insulate it fully, but we're going to just kind of leave it out and paint them that way. We can keep an eye on them and make sure that they're not over processing. She probably sat for another 20, 30 minutes or so as her roots were lifting and now we're at the shampoo bowl we're just gon na kind of pull all these foils out as carefully as we can. I swear this gets so heavy but um. I just wanted to show you guys the way that she lifted and she's probably a good level eight, which is exactly where we wanted her okay, so my client just got done processing we just washed her out she's sitting at the sink with um an olaplex treatment. So i'm getting ready to formulate for her all over toner that we're gon na do which i'm not gon na apply at the shampoo bowl. She'S gon na be tell dried, but i'm gon na play it as an actual all-over color with suctioning and everything just to make sure um. It'S accurate and heavy saturation. So our goal. I think we want to be kind of like a seven, eight, so um. What i'm gon na mix with it, i'm gon na kind of throw a whole bunch of random things together. So, let's use i'm going to be using, like i think the half of my like a large percentage of my formulation, is gon na be level eight with like a little bit of nine just to bump it up a little bit. So it kind of keeps a little bit of lightness um, i'm going to use like 7 1 to cool it down a little bit because we don't want it to be like too too warm, especially since she has so much like underlying warmth in her hair. Right now, um, i only have a little bit of the 742 and i think that's nice, to have like a little bit of beige tones in it and then the 646, which is like a beige chocolate and i'm only gon na do like a small little. These two are just gon na, be a little bit to add a little bit of the tones in there not a whole bunch because they're both beige tones, but one is more of an ashier beige. The other one is more of a chocolatey beige. So, in the end, it's just gon na be like a neutral beige but um. I like i've, said before i don't really carry the full line. I just kind of go with what i have like. I got the majority of my color earlier thinking. That'S what i needed um, but i'm trying to tweak it a little bit with what i have so that's why i'm kind of throwing a whole bunch of random stuff together. So the majority of my formulation is gon na, be like that um, probably honestly, the eight and the seven one a little bit of the nine and then just this like a smidge of these two. So you know it's kind of confusing, but sorry all right. So, a little bit of nine the whole thing of eight the whole thing of seven one and just a little bit of those other two and here's her hair pre-toned, nothing at all, um. I just wanted to show you guys what her lift was without being adjusted, as i am doing my application, i'm really just trying to focus in the back area and let it process first for a little bit before i go too high up on the scalp. Just because i know with some of the videos that i've done in the past, where it's been like a cooler, caramel tone. It is really scary because it looks like it's grabbing so cool and then after it's said and done, and i wash it out and it's drying and everything it looks perfect, but that processing time son of a if it's not the scariest. You know moment because it looks like it's blue. It gives you a heart attack, it's really scary, so i'm honestly applying just this little bit right in here and i'm gon na. Let it sit for about 15 minutes just because i want to check it and see how the toner is, because, when it's underneath, if i need to adjust anything to warm up a little bit, i always can. But i'd rather just be safe than sorry. And just let it sit for a few minutes make sure that it's processing the way that i want it to and then we'll finish the application. Okay. So at this point i let it sit for like 10, 15 minutes or whatever i feel like. I'M okay, with the way that it's processing i've kind of pulled the toner off a little bit to check everything in my sections to make sure it's not grabbing too ashy. So i'm gon na go through and i decided that i don't want to have to go back through and do like a balayage. So i'm just gon na kind of weave these sections out that you see that i'm leaving behind where i'm not running the color through the ends and i'm going to keep these aside. As my highlights, and here i'm still checking the color, because you can never be too cautious when you're dealing with ashy tones and freshly bleached hair that could grab extra porous. So, just as before, with with my bleach application, i'm doing the same here where i will do a few sections on the side and then i will flip her to the other side and start painting that side over there. And the reason is because i want to make sure that i'm keeping track of exactly where i'm weaving out the hair to keep it have some blonde pieces in there um. I feel like it's really easy to forget exactly what pattern you're doing unless you're doing like a very specific, like um slice, weave slice weave, but i never do my coloring that way, i'm never like too patterned out or anything so for here, i'm going through and Then, when i flip to the other side, i can remember like okay, i only did like a few sections where i pulled all the way through the ends and then added one in between section that i was keeping blonde. So now i'm gon na flip to the other side and repeat the same steps guys if i sound like. I don't know what i'm talking about it's it's because i don't know what i'm talking about it's, because it's 1 30 in the morning and i'm trying to do this um voice over because i've done it like sporadically through the day like five times. But i can't get it finished and i have to upload this in a few hours. I want to make sure it's done, and so, if i sound like, i don't know what i'm talking about or if i'm not making complete sense. I apologize it's because i'm tired, but i love you anyways, so all right, so you can see that i'm pulling aside some of those hairline pieces and that's because the picture that she showed me it has a little bit of a money piece. But it's not like super blonde or super bright or anything. But i just want to make sure that i'm keeping track to have that stuff set aside and to make sure that i don't tap it yet because i don't want it to start oxidizing and going too dark. So i'm going to finish the sides and then i'm going to hit the mohawk section and i'm kind of gon na do that a little bit more pattern to be more like highlights, but i'm still gon na tap through a little bit. That way. Everything blends really nicely so you'll see everywhere within this whole application that, even though i'm leaving some hair behind i'm still going through and hitting the roots, and that way everything blends really nicely and everything looks a little bit more natural and more subtle and nothing ever Is going to be too bright, it's just going to be a really soft little difference of a highlight versus super blonde and super bright. So now that i'm at the top of the mohawk section, i'm going to take my sections and be a little bit more patterned that way, i know exactly how much brightness i'm leaving behind and i want to make sure that it has nice balance. I don't want it to be like super streaky or anything like that, so i'm still going to hit the roots throughout this whole top section, just like the rest of the hair. I want it to have like a nice brightness, but i want it to blend into everything, so there's still going to be like a root shadow appearance to even where the highlights are. So when i do my sectioning, i'm probably going to have like at the most half an inch of like a dark piece. And then i'm just going to take my next section and do like a weave and have that be like the blonde piece. And then another half inch of dark and then a weave again of the blonde and then so on and so forth. Until i get to the very front of the hairline, so you'll see me kind of taking turns of pulling the color all the way through the ends and then weaving my next section and i'm still going to hit the roots that way. Everything blends and it looks more like a balayage versus super streaky and stripy straight on the hairline right at the scalp. You know we don't want it to look super chunky or anything. We still want it to blend a little bit more. So that's why i'm still going to paint the roots even where we're going to leave the blonde and having those pieces staying out and sorry. My camera angle wasn't very good so right here, i'm going to show you that i'm just taking a weave of a blonde piece again and i'm just going to tap the roots a little bit and then split it down the center and pull those blonde pieces directly To the side that way, i can make sure that i'm not pulling them back. As i was laying the sections where i run the color all the way through the ends. I pull that straight back and then you'll see all the blonde pieces that i'm going to preserve the lightness i'm kind of pulling those down to the side. So this little section, i'm going to um, run all the color through the ends, but i want to make sure that i'm not going to transfer any of that color onto the other blonde that i've done or that i'm leaving behind. So i'm actually going to put that foil down and put the dark on top of it. That way and make sure that all that blonde stays nice and bright and i don't get any transfer there. So we're almost done with this little section and we're going to let all this color process, probably for like 30 minutes or so okay. So we are toning. Her lightest blonde, well not her lightest blonde pieces, but the pieces that we left out from before when we bleached her hair um. We had a conversation about it's just really hard to match this color up perfectly for how cool it is, and it's like a fine line between mixing and being still too orange, of a caramel tone versus like um, making it like a nice cool, caramel tone, and I asked her: would you rather me air on the side of being too cool of a caramel shade or too warm of a caramel shade, and she said too cool of a caramel shade, because it's always gon na warm up anyways for how much warm under pigment? She has in her hair um. However, i feel like it's, i feel like it's almost a little too cool um. So what i'm toning her hair with right now is paul mitchell, the demi and the reason. Why is because i feel like it's so translucent like it? Doesn'T ever really tone down highlights so much like the schwarzkopf agora, vibrance um? If i want to cover up hair and like not be able to see, highlights or do a really strong shadow root like i will always go to that. But if i want something, that's a little bit softer where you can still see the highlights through a little bit more than i always go to palm mitchell, the demi just because it's so much softer so to try and add a little bit more warmth back into Her hair, i'm using paul mitchell, the demi i'm using basically half and half of the 9nbc 7n, so i'm definitely putting a lot more warmth back into the hair to hopefully, you know make it a little bit more of a warmer tone, not so cool of a Caramel just a little bit more of a warmer caramel tone, um, and then i can see that it's not really depositing too much into the highlights. So i just did half and half of this and i'm letting it sit for probably like 15 minutes. Adding this toner put just the right amount of warmth back into the hair that we needed all right. I have to show you guys. This color was literally a perfect match for what she wanted. I was panicking so much thinking that it was gon na, be so cool and way too ashy, and actually it turned out really perfect. It'S like the perfect beige tone. It'S like a level eight. It matches exactly what she wanted in the picture and then she felt like it was too light and she wishes she could go back down to like a little three. No i'm not doing that. You guys didn't catch that i just wet her down and put some level five all over her head and let it sit for about 10 minutes. So here's her before again and then we will get into her after okay. Here is her after um. I'M definitely happy with the color still. I was a little let down that after working so hard to get her to that perfect level, eight that we were going for and after stressing out so much about it. I was a little you know like. Oh, i tried so hard to get that perfect color, but you know she wasn't happy with it. I told her if she needed to adjust it. We could so i'm glad that she left happy and we just toned it down a little bit and it still has a really pretty nice lightness to it. It'S just not quite as light as we were striving for um. You know it's fine, but um. I think adding that little bit of dimension made her more comfortable, so i'm really glad about that. So here is the total after and i think it's still such a really really pretty color okay, so my client just left, i just rang her out and i'm glad that we added that root shadow of the darker tone, because she was definitely a lot happier with That um, oh crap, i have music playing in the background and if it's like, if the thing catches on it'll, like um, copyright me hold on i'm just turning the music down for a minute, okay um. So i just rang her out and if i were to charge hourly, because we technically sat down and talked about her hair at 10 30 - it's 6 45 right now, so i think it was over eight hours, so my hourly rate would have been a little over Eight hundred dollars for that whole service, but i'm nice because i know a lot of people are like how can you charge that much so i went through and looked at everything like how much it would be per service like per whatever we did for the service. So the way that her service breaks down is um, so the toner, because we had to do - i basically did an all over color with the toner. So that's 95., the root shadows 55, all the additional solution that we used, because it was basically um. 12 scoops of bleach total was 200 um. Her overall, like bleaching out her hair was 220 and then the the other toner that we used after the all-over toner that we did was thirty dollars. So all of that total comes out to be six hundred dollars. So that's what i ended up charging her and, in my mind when i was thinking like i don't know what this is going to come out to be, but i feel like 600 is fair. Like i that's just what i felt like i deserved for the work. I don't think i would have charged her. I mean. Obviously i didn't, but i felt like 800 was probably a little bit too high, but i just feel like for the amount of work that we did, how much bleach, olaplex olaplex treatment, how many different toners and all of that stuff that we had to do. I feel like 600 is fair um. I know she was really trying to keep her price at like 500, but the fact that we had to go back through and re add some color and it added on about an extra hour and a half to the service. From doing that root shadow, that's why i ended up um charging 600 for the service so anyways. I hope you guys, like the video um it definitely i wish that we would have left it what the initial color that we first did was. But you know the client has to be happy, so um anyways there's still people in the salon. So i'm going to turn the volume back up and hope you, like the video i'll, see you next time. Bye.