Foilayage | Cool Caramel On Dark Hair + Tips For Lifting Dark Hair

Hey guys, it's been a while, since i've put out a longer video, so get your popcorn, this one's gon na be a long one. We'Re gon na be going over lightening, really dark hair how to saturate lifting power developer all of that stuff. So if you guys are interested in this color then keep watching you can follow me over on instagram at christy at the cottage okay. So i'm getting ready to do my client and she has very dark hair. It'S probably like, naturally, a level two like it's very, very dark, very coarse, hair um and i'm going to be going in with my schwarzkopf lightener and i'm just going to be using 20 volume. I know that i talked about this before, but i feel like a lot of people think like the darker, the hair, the higher the volume which is not really true, i feel like i get the best lift the like around 20 volume um. Sometimes even seven volume gets me really good lift, but because she does have such dark hair, i'm going to be going into a 20 volume developer. And that's because if you use like 30 or 40 volume, it has a stronger like push of power. But it dies off a lot faster, so you know if it takes you like 30 to 45 minutes per bowl of bleach to apply the color by the time you get to the end of that application. For that bowl that power and the lift is kind of already expired, so then you're not going to get as good of lift. So sometimes when people say like, oh, i can't lift it very well or get that greater lift. A lot of the reason is because your power is already gone so um. That'S why i like to use 20 volume, because it's a slower lift, but it's even and it lasts longer. So that's why i like going in with my 20 volume um. I really feel like schwarzkopf blonde me: it gets nine levels of lift and it's honestly one of the best bleaches that i really love for extremely dark hair um. I know that i use the blonde solutions, but i mix i'm very, very selective with who i use that on because it's sold out all the time um and it's like you really have to use a lot. So i'm going to be using my shortcut. For that reason, so schwarzkopf on me, with 20 volume, it's going to get you the best lift. Also don't make huge bowls of bleach like charge accordingly, for how many bowls of bleach you have to use. But if you're gon na you like, if you have somebody that has a lot of hair like don't mix this big ass bowl of bleach, because it's gon na get weakened out like the longer the application goes and then by the time you're. At the end of that bowl of bleach, like that section, still isn't going to get as good of lift as like when it when you first started applying so um for somebody that has really thick coarse hair. I do mix a little bit more because you do have to get really good heavy saturation um, so i am going to mix a little bit more, but only because i know that it's, it's probably really not going to last me that long because of how thick And coarse, her hair is so uh we're going to mix right now, i'm going to be using oleflex and we kind of talked about pricing and what she wants. She wants it like pretty heavy um we're going for like more of a cooler, caramel color. So that's what we're going to be doing today: okay, that was an earful but here's, my lightener, that i'm going to be using and the consistency is going to be nice and thick to get heavy saturation. Okay, here's her before you can see she has some grout from probably like two years ago, and i kind of like this because it will add a little bit of warmth to her hair, where we're going to be doing like a warmer tone. But it's not it's going to be kind of like a cooler, caramel tone so having that extra color in her hair will add a nice little bit of dimension, and so everybody was asking me to kind of show my parting that i do for my section. But i don't really do a lot of sectioning, i kind of just like pin the hair aside or whatever, but i don't always do like four quadrants. So if i don't ever show my sectioning it's because i don't really section, i just kind of you know section off one little part of the hair and like move around the head and that's it so to start um. The picture that she showed me was kind of like an ombre where it was kind of um subtle through the root area and more solid through the ends. So that's what we're going to be doing is leaving out little bits of dimension but saturating heavily to give it a nice ombre effect through the ends. Okay, i want to show you this right, really quick, where i'm pointing at look at that, if you guys get uneven, lift or like cheetah prints in your um sectioning, it's because of stuff like that, you need to make sure that you're covering your ground. If you find little lines or if you undo the foil and you see that there's little creases or whatever make sure you're going back over those little pieces and re-saturating to make sure you don't have uneven lift if you have uneven application, it's going to give you An uneven lift so make sure that you're covering everything and saturating the hair nice and evenly also, i want to say she doesn't want like a definite money, piece or heavy highlights around the face or anything she doesn't want to be super bright like that. So because of that, i'm not going around her hairline at all and doing any foils up to the hairline. She wants everything to be kind of rooty and to be able to let it grow out again. So that's why i'm kind of just starting throughout the hair. Instead of hitting her hairline - and here i want to show you guys, accurate saturation, that is very thick heavily saturated. Yes, it takes a lot of bleach and on this side, i'm going to show you the difference between what i see some stylists do, which is why they don't get as good of lift because they're they just like. I see some stylists just slap the bleach on and it's actually it was really hard for me to like do less because i'm so used to like slapping it on there and getting it nice and thick. So it's kind of hard to show you guys just trying to scrape it, because i actually see people do this really light amount of bleach and that's why they're not getting good lift. So, look at this you can see through to the hair that is not thick bleach. That is not good saturation versus look at um. Here we go so you can see that you can see through to the hair versus look at the other side. It'S super thick. Super creamy, you can see layers and layers of bleach on the hair versus this. That is not going to get good lift at all. You really got to make sure you're laying on there thick, especially with dark hair. If you want to get good lift, so we're just going to close this foil up and then i'm going to go through and finish reapplying to this section, so you guys can see exactly how much more bleach i'm applying um the less bleach, the less lift you're Gon na get you don't you wan na make sure you're adding enough bleach on there to where it's gon na have lots of time to process. If you don't have enough bleach, it's gon na dry out. It'S not thick enough to like saturate the hair to get good lift all of that stuff, so make sure that you're really saturating the hair. How many times can i say the word saturation in this whole video somebody count because we're laying it on thick today, i'm kind of staggering at my sections, but i also wanted to mention that every few sections you'll see me go up a little bit higher into The root area and that's because we want to kind of have a melted effect if everything is just down from like the mid shaft midsection to the ends, then you're not going to have a nice blend. So every few sections i'm going to go up a little bit higher, probably within an inch inch and a half into the root. So that way, she'll have a nice rooty look, but she'll still have a little bit of dimension to break her roots up just slightly enough to feel like you know, if somebody says that they want to have some roots and everything that doesn't mean that they want To grow they want, they don't want to walk out of the salon with a whole bunch of roots. Sometimes it means that they want to have like a rudy look, but they still want to have some soft dimension in that area. So make sure you talk to your client and see what they prefer, because there's a difference between like ombre, which is extremely rooty, like nothing up in the root area. Um, like a true ombre, you know and then kind of fading through the midsection through, like heavily saturated through the ends of like solid, solid blonde or solid, whatever your color you're doing so, but because of here i want to make sure she has some soft dimension. So every few sections we're going to bring the bleach up just a little bit closer into her root area. So again because she wants it to be nice and heavy through the ends. But she does want to have a little bit of her natural dimension kind of breaking up the ends of the hair, even though she does want it really kind of heavy. I i'm gon na go through and just paint through some of the ends of the hair, and this is gon na help create that kind of a color melt effect where, because we're kind of adding the bleach in different levels of the hair, some closer up to The root some more in the midsection and in some of these areas, i'm really just going straight through the ends, that's going to help, give it a really nice blend from like nice and rooty to kind of softer and then more solid through the ends. But we're also going to weave just a little bit of her natural just to give it a little bit more of dimension, and some contrast also because she doesn't want to feel like you know too solid. She wants to be solid, not too solid. You know what i mean just soft dimension and then, after i finish applying everything, then you'll see me kind of go through again and like pick and choose little pieces of hair because you know i don't want to leave too much of her natural behind all right. So now that we're done with this back section, i'm actually going to be pinning aside this mid section to the top crown area and start in the front section. But first i wanted to show you guys my bleach look at how thick this is. It'S nice and thick here we go again for that saturation. That'S the key word today, word of the day is saturation. I feel like i'm on sesame street and i'm i'm like teaching you guys the benefits of saturation and i need like the count dracula to like pop up with the letter s and spell out saturation somebody make it happen. Anyways back to the topic at hand, so we're gon na go in right now and do her quote unquote money piece, not many piece, because she doesn't want it too bright and chunky or whatever, but we do want it a little bit brighter. So we're gon na go through kind of weave out that front section to give it a little dimension back comb it and we're painting, probably within an inch inch and a half of her hairline, so also make sure you tell your clients to shut their damn eyes. There is nobody that needs to get a speck of bleach in their eye, so always make sure to tell your clients close your eyes. We don't want to bleed your eyeball out so again, just going in through here and um. I feel like people ask me sometimes why do i start on the hairline um because it lifts so fast, but i didn't want to start directly here like that's why i started in the back, because i knew it needed to sit longer so here i'm starting because It does have a long time to process because of how coarse her hair is very, very coarse and thick. So i want to make sure that we start on the hairline in her facial framing area, to make sure we get the dimension and the brightness that we want and that way it has time to sit and process. Because i don't want to come here last and then by the time all of her hair is ready to rinse out. You know this section hasn't processed long enough or it's not ready or whatever. So that's why i like to go through and do the hairline first and then, if you have to wash the or um pull the foils and wipe the bleach off earlier, then you can so because she doesn't want like too chunky of a money piece or too Bright or anything, i'm only doing that first weave directly on her hairline and then everything after that is going to be kind of underneath where her hair falls on her part. So she parts her hair straight down the center because she's not in her 30s and she's, a gen z if you're a millennial, you know what i'm talking about, because you part your hair on the side. Okay, our moms don't tell us how to do our hair. We make our own choices, so she parts her hair down the center, and so that kind of makes it nice and even technically it normally would. But one side falls actually very, very thick and i had to re-go through and do like a whole bunch of more application than the other side. So you can see here i'm going underneath where her hair falls, and this is going to kind of connect, her front money piece section to the side, and this is going to help kind of bring a lot of brightness towards her face. But it's not going to be so bright that she's going to feel like washed out or anything, because everything is kind of falling underneath so she's still going to have that dimension up top, but then kind of directly, underneath that first layer of her hair, where that Dimension is at the roots, she's gon na have all this nice brightness um kind of showing through underneath her hair. So i'm just going to finish sectioning off this area behind her ears and then again, because we're not going directly up onto her hairline, i'm gon na kind of just take this bottom section, um kind of back comb it pretty heavily and then we're going to bring It up a little bit closer to her hairline kind of feather it up into there. That way. She gets some of that brightness up into her root area, but it's not directly on her hairline, so she's still gon na have softer grow out, but still have a slight brightness around her face without feeling too heavy do all right. So i'm just going to flip flop back and forth between the sections. So i'm just going to continue this on this side of the head. What we just did on the other side and then i'm gon na keep going back and forth. So we're really trying to focus right now, just right along her hairline and getting her a little bit brighter, underneath, where her hair naturally falls again, not trying to go too bright or anything, but just kind of feathering up closer towards her face and then kind of Dropping the feathering down a little bit further towards the back section of the parting that we're doing so again here you can see that i'm kind of angling it just slightly higher towards her face and that's going to create a little bit more of a softer, more Subtle brightness towards the face and then slightly angled down to kind of drop that shadow a little bit more towards the back do so. This is kind of what i noticed that this side of her head actually is much more thick than the other side. So if you see me going through and doing more foils on the side of the head, that's why and i feel like this is kind i mean everybody has a thicker side and a thinner side, but it's kind of rare when you, when you have a client Who drastically has a much thicker side, and so that can kind of create some difficulties with your application, because it was really hard for me to try to figure out like okay. I have to do more sectioning on this side and more applications. But if i do too much application, then this side is going to be a lot brighter than the other side, but i can't leave too much dimension out on that side and not enough on this side, because then there's not going to be enough balance. So it's really hard to try and find that like perfect combination of enough sections or enough bleaches, bleach, packets or whatever um, and i feel like this also comes into the cost of the service. This takes a lot of education and practice and just years of making mistakes honestly and just getting better over time and like understanding that you can't, if somebody parts their head down the center, you cannot go through and do the same. Exact thing on every side of the head and have it turn out perfect: it's not gon na happen and go to somebody who might be brand new in school, or maybe this isn't their specialty and they're. Not gon na understand that and that's why the cost of some of these services go up is because you're paying for the knowledge that the service provider has and we'll get into that a little bit later going over the cost and pricing, and you know why things Cost the way that they do or whatever so a lot of it is just education and learning from your own mistakes. On oh crap, i thought i did enough, but this side is brighter than the other side. I should have added more and that's totally fine. That'S how we all get better but um. This client, specifically i felt like, was kind of difficult because i i was really nervous actually - and i think it's okay - to say that i was nervous that i was over saturating on the one side, because it was so much heavier than the other side. But in the end everything turned out. Okay, like i mean look at this, i still have this whole huge section that i have to go through, and i was really worried that she was gon na have to way too much brightness on one side, but knowing where to leave that dimension. How much dimension to leave and all of that stuff really comes in with creating the overall look and knowing exactly where to find the balance between each sides of the head? Okay. So when somebody wants a blended like money, piece kind of a rootier look, i like taking this triangle section right here, just kind of going a little bit deeper of a section going straight across where they part their hair, weaving it. This whole section weave it out back comb it and that's going to kind of create a natural blend, because that section at the very tip of that triangle, right where it meets the money piece at the very front of the hairline. To kind of, like the top of the crown area where the middle of their part is you're, pulling all of that hair forward and it's gon na kind of create this natural dropped effect. So we're going to pull everything forward back comb, it weave it and then we're going to paint it and feather it and that's going to help it have a soft blend. It'S just going to kind of naturally create a little bit of an over directed, like facial. Framing money piece that blends softly into the back, and i really like that for people that don't want it necessarily like super bright super heavy, but they just want it kind of like softer and more subtle and more of a rudy look. I feel like that. Just kind of naturally does it for you without having to like trying to figure out how much work to do whatever just kind of takes the guesswork out of it. So that's one of the things that i really like doing is that kind of triangle - um section just right after that front foil of the money piece: okay, now that we're at the top section of her hair. This is where i'm going to be going and doing a little bit more finer details, because this is the hair that's going to be laying on top, so some of it is going to be going up more of, like a finer foil, a little bit closer up To the root area, and then some of it i'm going to be dropping down a little bit further to make sure we have enough of that rooted. Look at the very very top. So we're just going to finish this top section out and then repeat on the other side, so my and here as i'm getting to the very top layer of the head, you can see that this is dropping down a little bit further. I'M still feathering some points up into the root area, but more like an inch and a half to two inches away from the roots, and this is going gon na help create more of that shadow and a little bit more of a rootier. Look on the very very top, but underneath is where the brightness is gon na be so everything is gon na blend really nicely still, but the brightness is gon na be more underneath. So that way, she doesn't have to worry about like heavy grow out, but she'll still have that dimension kind of flowing underneath the hair. So so, and then again as with the other side that we just did, i'm going to be taking this drop out section. That rootiness is still going to be there to create that dimension, but we're going to go through and paint through some of the ends. That way, it flows really nicely to be a little bit brighter and more saturated and brighter through the ends. So now, actually, because again, this side was so much heavier. I still have more that i have to do so. I'M gon na go through and just finish popping in a few more foils on this side and then finally be done. Do? Okay now that we're finally done with both sides of the head? We'Re going to start in this back section, and here i'm going to kind of do a little bit of a layering effect with my foils. I'M not going to really do a whole bunch of subsections, so i'm just going to kind of pick the hair up where it naturally falls, i'm going to kind of weave it a little bit and back comb it, and this first foil that i'm doing right here. I'M going to be going up a little bit closer into the root area just to like match. The sides probably like within an inch and a half to two inches of the very root area and then we're gon na heavily paint through the ends of the hair and then the following sections. After this i'm actually not going to be taking any subsections. These first three foils a lot of people, ask me about like color melting and how to get a good blend, and this is how i i feel like it works best for me is take the very first section. Do it a little bit more of a finer of a section weave it back comb, it paint it a little bit higher up into the root area. This next section you can see, we didn't take any subsections, we're still weaving it. We'Re still back combing it, but you can see that i'm painting it just just a little bit further down and not so higher up in to the root area, and this is going to help create that softer dimension into the roots. But it again we're creating that layer of color where that first section is just really fine, you're going to see just a little bit of pieces up into the root area and then, when everything falls down when everything's said and done, this second section that we're doing Right here is gon na kind of add a little bit more of that layer of brightness. That'S gon na fall underneath that first foil that we're doing, and now this third section that we're doing we're going to drop it down even further down. Maybe just like the mid section through the ends and that's going to help create even more of a blend. So again every section we're leaving a little bit more of a root but saturating through the ends, and so that's going to help create that nice blend. Where everything just kind of flows together a little bit more nicely here, i'm going to kind of show you how far down that shadow is of a root in this little section. It'S a good couple inches right there. This next section right here a little bit less and then this top section is up even tighter. So i know that feels like a lot of foil for one section, but if you see actually like that section as a whole, really wasn't that large. So you know she's still going to be rudy, but it's not going to be like such a heavy amount of roots that she's going to feel too dark all over so because we did that again. I know i kind of talked about it in that first section. Um at the very beginning of the video application, i'm gon na kind of be staggering. These next few foils, some of them are going to go up a little bit higher into the root section so because i'm dropping these ones down a little bit further down through the ends of the hair. These next few sections, you can see that i'm trying to be very specific of where i'm grabbing the hair, i'm going to be taking these a little bit finer, i'm going to back comb it, and actually these sections right here, i'm going to be painting up a Little bit higher into the root area, and that's because i want her to still have some dimension up into the roots. But i don't want her to feel too rooty so because we did such heavy roots in the last few sections. These next few sections that i'm going to be doing is going to be going up higher into the root area. So i'm pulling that hair up trying to get those pieces and then you'll see that i'm going to be painting it up quite a bit closer into the roots, to get a little bit more brightness up in that area. So another question that i get sometimes is: am i saturating the whole section that i'm foiling and if you haven't gotten the picture yet today from how many times like we've talked about saturation? Yes, when i do more of a foilage i, which is the majority of the work that i do, i 100 saturate through the whole section. I don't just like paint on the very top of the hair or anything. I make sure that i like get the bleach heavily through, that whole section, that i'm foiling and that's gon na really help you get more lift. I feel like a lot of clients when they come to me. I feel like their goal is to get really bright or much lighter and if you're just painting like a typical balayage, you can only get in my experience. You can only get so much lift or, if you're just painting on the top, then you're only getting like that brightness at the very top, but then you're leaving a lot of dimension. That'S not getting touched on the underneath! So for me, when i foil and do my applications, i really like to make sure i'm saturating all the way through and feathering up just at the root to kind of blend it out. But that's what's going to help you get better lift and i feel like this is the world's longest application and if you guys are still hanging on, then the lord bless you from the heavens above because i know that this is a really long video. But a lot of the video is just the application. So if you guys are still watching then leave like 500 thumbs ups because, like there's just a lot of talking and a lot of like reapplication of the same thing over and over again, so i'm just gon na. Let the video finish playing out right now. We'Re just gon na finish touching up through the ends of the hair and then we're gon na go through and just pinpoint some of these pieces through the very very ends that i don't want to leave too much dimension. Now that we've gone through and done like our interior brightness and everything i'm going to kind of go through and see the rest of the hair, that's kind of still falling out. We don't want to leave that much dimension, so i'm going to start going through and picking through some of that and just kind of going through and adding through the ends of the hair. Add through to the list of how many times we can keep count of that word also, oh, my god. I know there's gon na be somebody sitting there. Thinking like how many times does she have to say the word through okay. What is another word that i can use for through? I cannot think of anything i can't think of it. Somebody get me a thesaurus okay. I just want to let you know that i looked up on a thesaurus other words that i could use for the word through since i know somebody's gon na come at me in the comment section and tell me to stop saying through how many times do i Have to see through okay enough, i can say it enough times and the words that it came up with were around and circling uh surrounding and throughout. So if you would prefer me to, i can go through and say make sure that you're applying the bleach enough. That it is surrounding the hair that the bleach is encircling the whole section of the hair there. We go okay back to what we all came here for so i'm gon na go through and reapply in areas that she's still kind of sitting at like a level. Eight or so because we wan na get it a little bit lighter than that. So, and right now is the point that if she was trying to actually go blonde, i would probably go through with a 30 volume and get all of the foils that are stuck at like a level. Eight, nine and just reapply everything to just bump her up to get her nice and bright, but she does not want to be blonde. This kind of makes the job easier because you can get her to like a level eight and a half, nine or whatever and be comfortable there, because we're going to be toning down through the brassiness anyways and that warmth will kind of work in our favor because She does want to be warm, but she kind of wants to be a little bit more of a cooler warm like you can see right there, that's still a little bit too brassy, so i'm reapplying, and then i'm going to let that sit for about. Like 15. More minutes and intermission time, okay for this little clip because she's processing right now, if you don't want to hear what i have to say about like pricing and the cost of products and whatever then go ahead and skip forward like maybe five minutes or so hey Guys just a little intermission while my client is processing so so far, i've had to refill her well, not so far, i'm done with her application, which, by the way, her application has taken, probably like maybe like two two and a half hours or so um, and We ended up doing a full foilage, balayage or whatever um, but i kind of want to like address people have told me like: oh, don't come across like petty or or whatever, because then it puts off your subscribers um. So i'm gon na try to i'm really just trying to like educate people that are clients or other hair stylists that are like you charge too much or whatever um. So i'm gon na try not to like sound, even though i kind of that's kind of what i am not all the time but like i definitely can be, but so i had somebody recently be like 450 for a color. That'S way too much and they're like bleach and product doesn't cost that much or whatever, and that is true. However, that's not the reason for the overall cost of the service, like that, definitely adds to the service. So my client that i'm doing right now, i've had to refill her bleach, probably like four times and every time i've refilled her bleach. I end up doing two scoops plus olaplex um, just because of how heavy of saturation i have to do so. That'S where a lot of the cost comes in, oh god, my math sucks um. So what is uh hold on? Okay, i'm back so eight bowls of extra bowls of bleach son of a oh. I forgot to do two scoops. I only did it for one extra hold on okay. No! I was right the first time i swear, i'm not a crackhead, so april's of bleach times 15 dollars per extra bowl of bleach, because that include it used to be just ten dollars, but with the olaplex they do five extra dollars. So fifteen dollars per extra bleach at eight extra scoops equals 120. Why is that so difficult for me to figure out? I don't know but like i suck at math, and i can acknowledge that about myself. So 120 extra dollars just of bleach costs that doesn't include the toner which how much hair she has and how much toner i'm gon na have to use a toner is 25, but i'm gon na have to do two toners. So then that is fifty dollars. So that's like a hundred and seventy dollars extra of just product usage and sure when i go buy the product at the beauty supply store. No, it does not cost me that much for that specific color that much bleach or whatever, but can we also address something like we have a gal here, that's gon na start doing botox and she's talking about how she charges like, however, much per unit, do, i Think that's how much it costs her to purchase. No, am i going to question her on her prices? No, when you go get your braces done, i've had braces before you just have the stupid little brackets on your teeth for five damn years and all like the wire and it's like thousands and thousands of dollars. People go and get that done or invisalign. The plastic like there is nothing in the world that people are paying just base price of the cost of that specific product ever like unless you're creating it yourself and utilizing your own products like you're, never gon na pay for something what the base price is. So why do people think as a hair stylist that the product isn't that expensive? So we shouldn't be charging that much? I just think it's kind of ridiculous and frustrating this is where i can feel me getting a little bit. So i apologize um, but i just think it's kind of frustrating when people look at hair stylists and are like or like photographers or makeup artists or whatever, like anybody in the service injury in this industry. I feel like it's really discredited about like their services, that they give because their products aren't expensive or whatever, like the reality, is like nothing is expensive, but the prices get jacked up because they can because people will pay for it or because that's what the general Cost is for whatever industry you're in so if i say that the pro the service like when i honestly so, we started talking at the beginning of her service and she was asking how much it would be, and i told her one color that i did kind Of like what she wanted was like 500, but she doesn't have as long as thick of hair as that client that i did so her hair might be like 450 or whatever. Well, when i started getting into her hair, i realized like how fast her hair was able to go through, so i thought i might not have to charge her as much as i thought i was going to, but after having to go through and like uh keep Like it, she one side of her head falls, really heavy um a lot more here than the other side and so um. I thought i might not have to charge as much, but then after doing that and how much color and whatever i ended up using. I realized that yeah, i'm probably going to but, like i told her 450 at the most, but that gives me the chance to like know at the most that's what it's gon na be. But if i don't, if it doesn't end up costing that much like i can, i can drop the price down. If i don't end up having to use that much product, so um anyways, we'll just have to see, because also i might have to go back through and re-saturate her hair just to get better lift. So there's so many things that go into why things cost a certain amount or whatever, like you could tell me that i'm charging too much go to somebody that doesn't have the education doesn't have the product. Knowledge doesn't saturate whatever, like all those things, that equal a good service and pay 200 for the same thing and tell me what one are you happier with? Would you rather just pay the 450 and know that you're getting a good job done the time and effort is going to go into a good service, or would you rather pay 200 not have the right products not have whatever be rushed in the service and then Walk out with something that you're not happy with, so that is where i feel like you know the more education somebody gets or the more techniques that they learn or the more practice and time that they spent behind the chair and evolving, who they are as a Stylist, like that's where the product can, the prices can go up so anyways. I'M just going to do that because people keep on coming in and out, and i feel like dumb ass talking to my phone, so um i'm going to go, check her and see where we're at now and um finish the service all right now that i've, let Her hair sit for quite a bit. I'M gon na go back through and check her foils and it looks like we have the lift that we're wanting so we're just gon na head over and wash her out now. Okay, so we're toning right now and she lifted really good she's, like at a level nine, probably level, eight eight in some spots, um. If she was actually going for blonde, i would have reapply, but that's not what we're going for what she wants like of um. Probably like a level six, seven like kind of a caramely color but kind of cool at the same time like not too crummy like soft and a little bit ashier, so i'm going to switch something out. So i'm looking through my colors, my for formulation, um, i'm actually going to throw quite a bit of things together, so i'm going to use a level 6 to give her some depth in her tone. Um, i'm going to use 721 to kind of cool down the warmth and the rest of the formulation that i'm going to be using, and then i have seven four and seven two four. So the seven four is a medium bond blonde beige. The 724 is a medium blonde ash beige. So i have these two that i'm going to be using also, and the reason why i'm using both of those is because i don't have enough of just one of them. So i'm just going to throw them back together because they both have that, like beige tone that we're wanting um the sub, if i had just 724 like that, would be better because it has that ashiness in it also. But i don't so that's cool! That'S why we're going to use the 721 and the way that i'm going to use? It is probably the majority probably like half of my formulation is going to be the six just six zero and then i'm going to do equal parts of the 74724 will probably be like the other half of my formulation and just to cancel out a little bit Of the warmth that i don't want it to be too warm, i'm going to do like just a smidge of the 721 just to cool it down slightly and then also i'll, be using agora, vibrance um, the six volume right there. So that's what we'll be toning with for her overall color, i'm probably gon na, let it sit for like 15 minutes or so just to be 100 real with you guys, okay, so i let this sit for probably 15 minutes and let me tell you the level Of panic that i was having look at how ashy this was grabbing, and i really love the schwarzkopf like in some of these areas, where the light's hitting you can see the warmth showing through, but that ash is just it really grabbed, and i didn't rinse it Out i wanted to, i actually did feel like it was a little too ashy, so i did take a clarifier shampoo and just wash it once with the clarifier and i'm just kind of like rough drying. It right now to see the color, because i told her. We could re-tone if we need to um and actually the color ended up being perfect. But let me tell you guys, i was panicking because i thought it was gon na be just super ashy with no warmth at all, and i am so glad that i just waited it out. But i just want to let you know like these moments of panic. Are real and they happen even for stylists, like me, who's been in the industry for like 17 years, like you just never know how much is a color gon na grab the agora vibrance. I really love the line so much, because the coolness really helps cancel out the brassiness. It is such a strong coolness to it, but like i thought that it was just gon na overwhelm the color, but but it ended up working out and being perfect, but um. Sometimes, if you feel like it just overtones a little bit just run like a clarifier through the hair and just pull the overtone out of the ashiness, and that should help like um brighten. It up a little bit more. If you feel like it grabbed too much, which it did in my case - and i just want to share that with you guys so um anyways now we're just gon na go through. I just wanted to show you guys how her hair was straightened before we go through and color or curl it. So now we're just going to go through and style the rest of her hair. But i really love how you can see like. It really is a true cool caramely tone which i feel like this color is kind of becoming really popular, and i don't even know what to call it like cool caramel, like i don't even know like it's something like it's definitely not caramel, because it has so Much of a coolness to it, but um anyways, it's kind of hard to formulate for because it's hard to know the balance between like how much cool to add how much warm, like some clients, see any warmth as too brassy. But then it's like where's. The fine line between the color being what they want versus being too brassy or whatever so because i'm kind of booked out i wanted to make sure she was happy with the color. So i dried at first, i told her if we need to re-tone the hair readjuster or anything, we can do it right now. You have to let me know right now, or else i might not be able to get you in, and i let my clients know that, like let me know right now, we can adjust it if we need to, but you can't call me in two days because I might not be able to get you in so she was happy with it. We didn't need to fix it or anything um. So also here's the hairspray that i use the kenner volume spray number 25. It has like a nice firm hold, but not like too firm, where it feels like cement in the hair. You know what i mean so we're just gon na finish, styling and see the end result, and a lot of you guys ask how i get my curl. So i curl everything towards the back center away from the face and then i go through after everything sprayed and cooled down to set the curl. Then i go through and just comb it out with the comb and that kind of helps like um blend the curls. Together to give it like a nice soft wave, so this is how i style all of my clients, hair and here's her before again, and you guys this service took about five and a half hours and i did charge the full 450 and she was really happy With her hair - and that did not include a cut so look at that blend right there - that's kind of how i was talking about those layering effect with the foils, how it's just really soft into the root, but then blends nice and melts kind of into more Of a um, fuller, saturated color through the ends so um. Thank you guys so much for watching. I hope you liked this long video over an hour. You guys that stuck through it you're my number ones, and i love you so i hope you guys learned something from this video don't forget to like and subscribe, and i will see you guys on the next one. You