Permanent, Demi & Semi Hair Color: What It Means & Covering Gray | Hair Color Series 04

Welcome back to my bathroom and welcome to video four of the hair color series today, we're gon na be breaking down the differences between temporary semi-demi and permanent hair color. I'M gon na take you through what they are. What'S the difference, how to correctly use them? We'Re gon na demonstrate it using a level one which is black and we're gon na go through why you would choose the certain color, especially for blending or covering gray gray hair. If you're joining me from cosmetology school, we are gon na, be on page 670. 679. 679, your keynotes are in the description box below, as well as the previous videos, to the series, so the first colors we're going to talk about are temporary colors. These are your hair mascaras, your wands, your sprays, your powders, these typically last just one time. Think of like halloween fantasy colors and they shampoo out as soon as you get the shower the root spray we tried last week, yellow that is a temporary color. Another good example is shimmer lights, the purple shampoo from sally's, so here's one i actually picked up at sally's. This is zoto's professional age. Beautiful root touch up in black. Can you see that so this is my old weave? It'S actually my favorite one r.i.p. It smells like my grandma's house so very quickly, with this temporary spray, you can go from blonde to level one ten to one black instantly, but as soon as we shampoo this out, it's going to disappear, they make a physical change, not a chemical change and what I mean by that back in with the paper. Now i'm not like an artiste or anything, but this is our hair strand, an enlarged photo of the hair strand. It'S made up of three main parts, all our little hair strands. The cuticle is the outermost layer of the hair strand, think of like a shield. It protects everything on the inside. It'S also see-through. So i remember this by thinking of clear nail polish, it's see-through, but it's protecting my colored nail polish and it makes up about 20 of your hair strength. So it's kind of important that we seal the cuticle which we'll get into later, when we start talking about hair color in the middle we'll do this a funky line. This is called the medulla the medulla. This is the intermost intermost innermost. I think it's innermost. This is the innermost layer of the dang hair shaft, a lot of people don't have a medulla, especially blondes, and it serves literally no purpose. So you don't really need to know anything about it now, this layer in between the cuticle and the medulla, if you have one, is the cortex. I got ta work on my handwriting. This is the most important layer of the hair shaft because it makes up 80 percent of its strength. So if you have crap hair it's because something is going on in the cortex over processing in this layer, the cortex, the red one. This is what contains your hair's natural melanin melanin, meaning color. Let'S just say you have a red hair. You have a red melanin, that's made up in the cortex that you can see through the cuticle. So when we're talking about temporary hair color - and this is again your very nice hair shaft, ladies here's, the medulla when you enlarge the hair, it looks like it has these little feet kind of like a jellyfish or whatever these little feet when you're taking the hair Color molecule molecules, i can't say that word y'all molecules when you take those from temporary hair color. These are the hair molecules by the way purple. It sits on the outside of the hair shaft, these big old balls just sitting right there, so it doesn't penetrate inside to make a chemical change. It'S just making a physical change. It'S like dipping your hand in temporary paint, changes the color of your hand, but as soon as you go to the sink and shampoo it or wash it off, there goes the paint and it's back to your hand. Does that make sense? Yes. Now, in with our semi-permanent hair color, these colors do not lift the hair at all. So if i wanted to do a root retouch to get my dark roots to this blonde here, a semi-permanent is not going to work. They can only deposit color, meaning they can either make it the same color or darker, but no lifting that is permanent, color or bleach lightener. Typically, you don't mix these with developer and they go on wet hair. Most of the time, a good example of a semi-permanent color is brad. Mondo'S ex-mondo, oh, and this is actually my favorite color lime. Green i've only done a little strip of my hair, but it is gorgeous so for this color and semi-permanent colors. You take this out of the jar tube. Can whatever and slap it on, you don't need to intermix it with anything from the jar to the head. Typically, these are going to last about 10 to 15 shampoos, but that obviously depends on how frequent or how frequently you shampoo your hair. Here'S what it looks like in our hair, shaft, there's our medulla again, here's our little feet little toes whatever the hair color molecules again, this purple stuff they set on the outside, just like the temporary colors, but some of them are small enough to penetrate through creating A stain because there's no hydrogen peroxide or developer - it's not really making that huge chemical change, but it is working better than a temporary hair color. If you will the cool thing about semi-permanent hair colors, are they don't make that line of demarcation? Like my hair, you can kind of see how it's got a stark line with a semi-permanent hair color. It will gradually fade with each shampoo. So, instead of being it will be a nice soft blend, would it really recommend these for blending or covering gray hair? You can do a little bit of gray blending, but it's honestly, in my opinion, not really worth the effort. You would use a demi which we'll get into in a minute, so the semi-permanent i picked up from sally's is color brilliance, color ion blackest, black or one looks like this. Oh and mine is already leaking perfect, as always with any type of hair color. You always want to open it up. Oh open it up and read the manufacturer's directions; instructions because they're all different okay, gloves: we've got invisible, gloves towel dried hair 10 to 25 minutes perfect! You take this out of the tube and you can apply it directly on the hair, no need for developers and again most semi-permanent colors do go on damp hair, so we'll let this process for the 25 minutes and obviously the more times you shampoo this, the quicker It will start fading out, so the less you shampoo, the more it's going to stay in moving on to demi-permanent, color and again, we've got this in level. One which is black did my permanent hair colors are really similar to the semi-permanent hair colors in the way that they're not going to lift the hair. So i cannot lift my roots with a demi or a semi that is permanent, hair color. This is only going to deposit make it the same color or darker, not lighter. You do typically use a developer or hydrogen peroxide with demi-permanent hair colors, so it needs a buddy for this to activate or work. These are really good for toners, and also really good for blending not covering, but blending gray hair. I can't think of the most popular men's hair color. It'S a hair color for men, that's in a box at the grocery store, drugstore or whatever, and it doesn't cover the gray, but it blends it. I don't think it's just for men, i don't know, but it still makes it salt and pepper, but adds a little dimension, so you're just not full on gray. This is what this is going to. Do. It'S not going to cover it completely. It'S just if you want to kind of hide some of it or enhance a little bit of the gray. Make it look more like a highlight. Demi permanent is a choice for you. For me, the only time i ever use demi permanent is when i'm doing a root retouch on a client. So, let's pretend we have someone who has black hair and they have 100 gray roots okay, so we want to do a root retouch with permanent hair color, because that covers gray 100, so we'll go through put one in with 20 volume for gray hair all over The roots once we're done with the roots, we're going to go in with a demi permanent hair color one end to match the top and run it through the ends and let it process for 30 minutes all together, shampoo it all at once, shampoo it all out At once, this is going to refresh the ends: the demy permanent hair color. You don't want a compact permanent hair color on top of each other, all the time so black on black on black on black on black or whatever color it is. You don't want to overlap permanent hair color. It creates build up it's hard to get out. If you change your mind, you want to do a different color. So a dim my permanent hair color color refresh, is a better choice to do on the ends of hair. That'S really the only time i use it and for toners, of course, now back in with the paper when we're talking about demi or demi. However, you want to say it demi permanent demi, whatever here's, your hair, shaft, here's your legs, here's the medulla, here's the cortex! Remember all chemical changes is mostly happening in the cortex. Cuticle is just a see-through part, the top coat to your nails. So when we're doing demi-permanent, we are usually using a hydrogen peroxide or developer. So this is making more of a chemical change. You have your color molecules right here with little happy faces, whoo and they're flying in there like sperm babies. They have found a way in they are able to seep through the hair shaft or the cuticle penetrate in the cortex to make that chemical change. Some of them still sit on the outside, but a lot of them are on the inside so when it shines through or goes through, the cuticle, the see-through part you're, seeing the color it's making more of a chemical change. It'S still not as permanent as permanent hair. Color, but it's pretty dang close okay, so did my permanent hair color looks just like permanent hair color. I'Ve always used it with 5 or 10 volume, but this is saying to use yeah 10 volume, and this is a 1 in a which is level 1 black. In neutral or natural, which means it doesn't really have too many warm or cool tones, but it has an a at the end, meaning it has a little bit of ash. Ash is blue. So this is basically saying this is a black hair color with a very mild tint of blue tin volume. Where are you we're using pravana 10 volume? It doesn't really matter if you intermix it, despite what the manufacturer's directions say, of course the hair color brand wants. You to buy their developer they're all the same, you'll be fine, demi permanent can go on wet or dry hair and when i say wet, i mean like towel. Dried, not soaking, wet, processing. Time for this, one is 25 minutes and you can see it's a little bit different from the others, because it's not automatically full blown black, it's going to take a little bit of time for it to process and then turn black here's the demo. Lastly, we have permanent hair color, which looks like this very similar to the demi permanent. This is actually a 2vv. They were out of level 1 and 2 is almost black. The v is just double violet, so it's going to look pretty much black with a double dose of violet, so it's violet in the light very pretty permanent hair color is most commonly used because it can lighten and deposit color at the same time. So if i wanted to do a root, retouch hypothetically, i could use permanent hair color or a high lipped color series with a high developer or hydrogen peroxide, to lift my roots and deposit a tone. At the same time, permanent color covers gray. So if you have gray hair - and you want to cover it completely - you're going to be looking at permanent hair color - they are mixed with developers and typically used on dry hair and the developers can range from 5. 10. 20. 30. 40.. If you want to get silly double 40, 50 60 yadda yadda whatever i don't go past 40, because we're not making bombs. Okay, we're changing hair color! When we're talking about the hair shaft her. I don't know how to spell that permanent permanent hair color. Here'S the hair, shaft, here's the medulla with no purpose, here's the little legs when you put it under a microscope microscope microscope yeehaw. When you put this under a microscope, it appears that it has little legs. Here'S our hair, color molecules, whoo happy face. They have what's called aniline draw, aniline drawback, what the hell, i can't even say that whatever i'll write it below, basically, what you need to know are: these are tiny dye molecules and some people are allergic to these in that sciency jazz. This is what makes this hair color permanent, when combined, of course, with hydrogen peroxide now not to get all scientific, they start off real small when you pair them with their buddy. This is hydrogen peroxide and they're getting silly together, you and me they go inside the hair shaft and they start swelling up here. We go now we're gon na change, this gray hair we're changing it to red, we're changing it to red. Of course, some molecules still sit on the outside, like the rest of the hair colors, but most of them are living on the inside having a good old party time, they're permanent hair colors. You can see through the cuticle, the outermost layer, the clear top coat to our nail polish. You can see that the color has now changed now. This is bright a red party time and it makes a permanent chemical change inside the hair shaft. So, in a sense they get trapped inside your hair shaft. You could shampoo it hundreds of times and for the most part it will stay. This color it has made a chemical permanent change. Permanent hair color is great for blending or covering masking gray hair, but where it's not so great is that it tends to be a little bit high maintenance, for example, my hair, when it's growing out it has that line of demarcation. It'S very obvious on people that have blonde hair that have darker roots and on people that have darker hair that have lighter roots. You can see that line of demarcation, permanent hair color looks just like the demi see. Here'S the demi tube the semi tube again was a lot bigger because you need more you're, not mixing this with anything. This one is a one to one ratio: i'm going to do it over to the side here we're going to go back in with equal parts of 10 volume developer. Now, if you're, covering gray, you want to use a 20 volume developer, you want to soften the hair, cuticle the outermost layer. You need hydrogen peroxide to kind of like shake it up a bit, so these hair molecules can penetrate through and change the cortex. The cuticle is protecting the hair, nothing come in here, but you need to break that wall and get that permanent hair color in gray. Hair is crazy. It'S like a cat whisker, it's very like you could put color on it and it will slip right out. You need that extra bump of hydrogen peroxide to really make it stick and stay, and i know i've mentioned this in another video, but i honestly can't remember which one. But if you're, having a hard time covering gray, a good little trick is to take 20 volume developer pretend this is a 2 20 volume developer, put it on dry hair! Put it wherever you have gray. If it's all over he'll slap that all over, let it process 20 30 minutes with a cap over it shampoo blow dry. This out. This is going to take you a while mix your hair color with again 20 volume, so hair, color, 20 volume, developer mix it together then apply it. Let it process put a bag over it. Shampoo blow dry it out again that's going to really help open up and break open that cuticle, so you can bust through with the color permanent hair color and again it doesn't look black right away, but when we come back and visit it in about 20 30 Minutes it's going to be very black, very dark! We'Ve got all our friends we're going to let them process. So it's been like 20 minutes. Here'S the timbre and let's go ahead and run water with it through it and see if it comes off shampoo on it. Starting to come off because you can see the black so after we've shampooed it, i didn't do a great job, but you can see it's back to blonde temporary one-time use. Here'S the semi-permanent hair color! You can see it's a nice rich black, here's, the demine again black and here's the permanent hair color, which i didn't give it enough time, but you can kind of see what it was trying to do. It'S obviously turning black, but i don't know if you can see that violet hue, that it has here at the top, so it's gon na it would would be a very nice black. If i would let it process a complete time, but they're pretty much all black. So initially, all of these look the same blackest black. The only difference is how long they're gon na last is it gon na be a day? Is it gon na be five to ten shampoos? Is it going to be three ish weeks or is it going to be permanent where it's growing out and the only way to get rid of it is to remove it with bleach or to cut it out? Hopefully that made sense. I don't know about it, y'all. Let me know: that's it for this week. Hope you guys are well. I can't wait to see you next time so make sure you subscribe. Click the bell i post a new video in this series every single week, usually on sundays, so i will see you next time for something cool, something cool i've been asked to slow down. Who cares?