A Very Detailed Video On How To Sew A Side Part Pixie Cut With A Closure Using A Sewing Machine

Hi tim jay welcome back to my channel. Thank you for coming back to my channel, but if you are new here, don't forget to subscribe like and comment just stay tuned. Today we are going to be doing a side pattern with a closure using a dome cup with a sewing machine, so we are going to be as accurate as possible for you to get it. I hope you would like this video. I hope you enjoy it, but if you also find it useful, just don't forget to show me some love. Don'T forget to subscribe, don't forget to share this video. Thank you without further ado, let's start a tutorial, so today we are going to be doing a side. Part pixie cut on a dome cap with a closure using a sewing machine. First of all would have to adjust the dome cap onto the canvas head. We make sure that it lies flat on the canvas head and i'm using converse head size 23.. After it's placed firmly on the canvas head, we adjust it with pins. You can use t-pins or any other pin that you feel comfortable with, but you adjust it properly and make sure it lies flat before placing the closure onto the dome cap on the canvas head. So this is a three-part closure that i'm going to be using i've already bleached the knots as you can see, so i'm going to place it sideways. Since it's a side pattern. I don't have to place this in the middle like we regularly do, but i'm going to place this on the side and pin it down to lie flat before i start sewing. So i place at the position where i'm comfortable with or out wants my pattern to be before i start sewing, so i make sure i pin it down so, as you can see in the video, i start by pinning the downside. That'S my first step and the second step is behind before i come on to the third part and then pin this family plays down. So i do my stitches onto the dome cup, making sure that i don't sew into the canvas head. I use blanket stitches. All the time - and i make sure that when i'm done, i use the machine to stitch the closure onto the net just to avoid loose ends, because it's easier when you sew the closure, with the sewing machine onto the net before you even start stitching your first Track but either ways you can finish, sewing your wig before running stitches with the machine on the closure. I saw a bit on the left side and i saw a bit on the right side and i seal it in the middle. That'S what i usually do just to avoid overlapping at the end one two in a closure, so i usually stitch both sides and then seal it or finish up in the middle and i'm still using blanket stitches through positioning the closure onto the dome cap or whichever Net that you are using is very important because i'll determine where the line or the pattern is going to be. That depends on what kind of part you'd want. You can create an artificial part. Apart from the pattern that they've made on the closure, that's only depends on you. You can decide to have a curved line which would definitely be created by you if you want or you'd have to use the patterns created for you. So if you decide to use the patterns that have been created for you, then it means you'd have to position your closure very well before you start sewing, so you can mark the lines with your hands without measurements. That depends on you. For some of us we can use our eyes to measure and get accurate measurements, but it's not for all. So if you feel you're not conversant with using the free hand to do it, then you might as well just use a tape measure and then mark half an inch throughout as you mark. You make sure they are even but the fact that you are marking on the nets, maybe half an inch, doesn't mean you are going to sew on the exact max you've made because, for example, from the beginning, i might want to space it out a bit, because I would like the back or the nip area to be flatter than the occipital area, so um. I may decide to use the lines as i've marked by going towards the occipital area. I would want that part to be fuller, because i would like that part to be raised, so i can sew in between the tracks in between the tracks. You can decide to sew one track or you can decide to double your track or triple the track in between the lines, so that entirely depends on you, but i usually use the max as my guide but along the line. Since i know what i want, i choose to insert tracks in between the lines i have marked, so you don't necessarily have to follow the lines like line for line no you're just marking. I personally think that marking the lines is um just for is as far as for as a guide, but it doesn't mean that because if you mean to mark every track or every line on the net, it's going to look clumsy and you didn't even know where To sew when you're using the sewing machine, so that's why i do it this way. Well, my can ensure that you have straight lines because you wouldn't want to have kept lines as you stitch, because sometimes when the lines are kept towards a certain direction, it will alter the size of the nets as you sew. So you might be mindful of that. If you don't mark the lines at the right places, you might finish the cup and you not be satisfied with the results, so um the marking of the lines and this accuracy is very important. It'S something you should look out for, especially when you are stitching on a dome cap or an adjustable net. While using the sewing machine because mind you, each stitch alters the size of the nets. You are using the more the stitches the smaller the cup becomes, but if you are able to get the right technique, while stitching with the sewing machine, you'll be fine, you wouldn't have to worry about it. So, if you're able to get the guidelines right, if you're able to get the markings and the positioning of the hair right, you'll be fine, you wouldn't have to worry about it. Shrinking the net shrinking or any or the cup shrinking. It wouldn't be a problem, and when you take a closer look at this, you would realize that since it's a side part and the right parts of the cap or the net is bigger than the left side. Because then, closure has been tilted towards the left, which makes the side the left side the space on the left side smaller than that of the space on the right side. So i'm going to mark more lines on the right side, so the bigger the space there. The more you'd need to feel so, since the right side is um more than the space, there is more than the space on the left, i'm going to add more lines to it, which means i'm going to add more hair to the right side to be able To match up with the space on the left, to conclude, if you want the right side to be fuller, then it means you have to have more tracks on the right side, but you can't have so much hair on the left side, where the closure is because It'S going to look very full, but once again that also depends on if you'd want the side, your left side to be fuller, that's fine, and if you want the right side to be fuller, you add more tracks to it. That'S basically it! But if you don't want the right side to be full, you just go in with a regular fullness and now, as you can see, i'm having more tracks at the occipital area, because i need to fill that part. So, coming from the right side, i make sure i end around the occipital area so that i get more tracks over there to make the back look, fuller and now at the frontal area. Since i want the hair to also fall forward, or i want the hair to be more - i choose to mark it straight or i can choose to curve it. So, as you see that i've placed this track on it, i can choose to let the hair fall forward or i can choose to let the hair fall sideways. It all depends on the style you want to achieve, but either ways none is wrong. You can use whichever one that you are comfortable with. As you can see, i've placed the hairpiece on the track. So that's how it's going to be. That'S what it's going to look like when you place it on those tracks, but when it comes to the front, how i have marked my lines as the same way, i'm going to stitch my tracks so either a false forward or a full sideways. So you can decide to use afro-b, i personally like using tara for the back, because i want it to lie flat and you can use afro b at the frontal area, because it's fuller or you can use straight hair. When you are done, you cut and then style, i'm going to be using the curved metal method and either ways you are still going to come by about the same um style. So it shouldn't be a big deal. So you work with whichever one that you're comfortable with or you can do both on different cups. That'S that's all right. I'M still marking the lines using my tape measure but, as i said earlier, you can choose to stitch between in between the tracks, you've marked or the lines you've marked you can choose to stitch in between as in place hairs in between the white lines that you See marked, as i said earlier, you don't necessarily have to stitch on the white lines that you see, but when you stitch on the white line it doesn't mean you can't stitch on the part that doesn't have the white lines you can stitch in between. That'S if you want the hair to be fuller, but if you don't want it to be fuller, you just maintain your tracks or your guide or you work with your guide. You just stitch on the white lines that you see, but if you want it to be fuller, you make sure you stitch in between the lines you've marked when joining the lines i've marked, i make sure it blends in with the other line, the line that is Meeting, i just don't make it okay, let me put it this way if i'm stitching the hair piece onto the like to meet the other tracks, that i've already sewn and make sure it blends in, i just don't let it sit on top of it, because when You do that it distorts the the um. How do i call this um, the smoothness level of the hair. One side might look bumpy, but, as you saw and they meet it has to blend in, it has to sit properly on the track that you've already sewn. I don't know if i'm making sense gradually, i'm closing in on the space on the left side, you can tell that on the right side, the space is reducing. So that's what i'm trying to achieve right now. So you're marking you shouldn't, have a problem. If one side is bigger, one space is bigger than the other, especially when is the side, but when it's a middle, whatever happens on the right happens on the left, as i normally see. So i make sure i close in on the space on the left, because i'm trying to achieve the same spacing that i've left on the left side on the right side. So that's why you see me marking this way. I really really really really want you to get this. That'S what i've taken my time to explain and to mark the lines accurately, because, usually when i'm personally doing it, i never use a tip measure. I just use my hands and i get my lines accurately, but for the love i have for you. I'Ve taken my time to draw out these things like marks and all that with a tape measure for you to have a better understanding of what we are doing here and i know by the help of god in practice. I know you are going to get this within the shortest possible time. So if you at this moment, if you haven't liked this video, kindly do so, if you haven't subscribed, please show me some love and if you've not commented, please do well to leave a comment in the section below and give me some more whatever suggestions that you Also have, or whatever you want me to do, for you just leave it in the comment section below and i'll do that for you and don't forget to also share this with your friends who would also like to learn sharing. Is caring so show your sister? Some love and like this video comments and then share. Thank you. So let's continue with the video, so we're almost done here with the markings and you see i'm closing in on the left side. So right now you can tell that i'm done marking this thing. This is what i was just trying to achieve, and you can bear me witness this, isn't anything very difficult. It'S not it's not rocket science. This is this very simple and i'm sure i'm gon na make another video for you to understand more. If you really didn't get it this way, i'll do different a different technique in sewing this on a on a doom cap. Sorry, so that's the finished work of the markings. It doesn't look too perfect, but i think we can work with this, so we are going to be using the tara 24 pieces. For this part, i prefer using the tara for the back because it lies flat. So this is the type i'm using and before i um sew onto the cup, i make sure i place the cup very flat on the surface of the machine before i start stitching and make sure it's completely flat without any folds or anything, because if you have Folds, certainly they are going to be bumps in their stitches, so you need to be mindful and when i'm using the tara 24 pieces, when i open it up, i start using the very fair, the inner. So this is the very one that i use. I use the one the wefts that is inside, i start with the ones that are inside and i end with the last one at the back. So that's what i start with, because that one is way shorter than the ones that come after. So i start i do with a nip area. I start with single tracks. You can decide to start with single tracks and end with single tracks. You don't need to double the tracks till the end, but if you get to us to the occipital area, you can decide to double the tracks or triple the tracks there, because you want that side to be bulkier, so just make sure you place it flat on The surface of the machine and then, as you sew, the very like the beginning and the end, you need to stitch that place back and forth about three to five times just to keep that side firm, as you saw just make sure your fingers are working just Place your fingers on then on the net and then make sure it lies flat and when you get to the end, make sure you stitch back and forth between three to four or five times just to have that particular end in place. We don't want any loose ends, because it's very frustrating when you have loose ends, as you saw just make sure you keep cutting the threads before you continue sewing, at least after every three to four tracks. You need to cut off the loose threads, if not you're, not going to have a good work done or a neat work done because, as you saw, the threads get in the way of the stitches. So you happen to sew over them. And when you look inside or like in the cup, it doesn't look neatly done so you need to be cutting after every three to four tracks, at least to have neat work done and, as you saw just keep your fingers on the net and then open it Up don't stretch it, but just make sure it lies flat. Just work with your fingers and, as you can see, i'm using my middle finger to lay the track flat onto the net, as i saw and make sure the track. That is, in my right hand, is firmly placed onto the net, because i don't want it to fold. That'S why i keep the net flat. With my left hand, if you are right handed, i keep the net down with my left hand and i control the track or the wefts on the cap. As i saw and as i saw, i make sure i push the net through the machine, even though the machine automatically pushes the net out. It still doesn't um give you um great stitches, but when you push it out, you have normal stitches and um when sewing with a machine on a dome cup or whichever cab that you are using. The cap is likely to um shrink and the more the stitches. The smaller your cup would be so that's why you'd have to push it out so that it doesn't shrink the stitches, don't become too tight shrinkage, so just keep repeating the same thing over and over again till the end. Just use your guide when you get to the area where you feel you need to fill in more, you can stitch in between the white lines, so just keep sewing. Keep the net flat use your middle finger to press down the wefts onto the net and make sure it's as flat as possible, as you sew, wouldn't want the situation whereby you finish, sewing it and you wouldn't be able to wear it. So this is the frontal part we spoke about when i was marking the lines on the canvas head. So um, i'm about to sew on that side or that part. So you can either use afro b or you can use some straight hair. But i'll begin by using that for b, because i don't want the front to be too long, so i'm going to use that for b, which is shorter about four inches or so, and i'm going to put um about eight inches um after i saw about three To four tracks of the afro b, so i just sew it and i make sure when i'm sewing that pad, i stretch the band a bit because um, depending on the size that you're using if you made it like a size, smaller then you'd have to stretch The band, if not the band, is going to be tight on the frontal area on your forehead, i'm just using my guide to continue sewing my tracks, so that's what i'm just still i'm still doing so i make sure i go back and forth a couple of Times before i sew the track onto it and i'm still making sure that my net is as flat as possible on the machine, and at least i use my fingers to push it through. You don't need to apply a lot of pressure, just slide it through and it's automatically move so that shouldn't be a big deal. You don't have to push it so much just gently, so you just keep following the tracks when you start go back and forth a couple of times before you move on, i'm still placing my left hand on the net and i'm stretching it out with my fingers. I'M making use of my fingers and i'm using my middle finger to place the track family down on the net and i i'm still sewing through. So it's still going to be the same method from beginning till end. If you're able to get it this way, i think you should be good to go so i'm just about ending, so i'm just finishing up with the last tracks. So i followed my guide. I sewed some of the tracks in between after using that for b, i'm continuing with the long tracks that i showed earlier, it's eight inches, so i'm using i'm placing that above the afro b. I so therefore b about um four to five tracks before using this. Simply because i don't want to - i don't want the front to be very long, so i use that for b and then i'm using the 8 inches on top of it, so that i'll have um a mid length. Bang. I don't want it to be too long. That'S why i'm doing this, but you can choose to use aphro b throughout and you can choose to use eight or ten inches throughout that's for the frontal area. So, however, you want to achieve your style. You can, and also, if you want the front to be fuller, you need to sew in between the lines or the guide provided because um you wouldn't some don't like flat hair. So if you don't want the hair to be flat at that side, you need to put in more tracks. You can decide to double your tracks at the front so that you have the front. Looking fuller, if you wanted longer, you use longer inches. If you want to shorter use shorter inches or you can choose to cut after after doing that, it all depends on you at a point where you'd have to care the weft to sew. It you'd have to use your fingers to control it and turn it in that direction, because the machine cannot automatically do that so you'd have to control it with your fingers and turn it in that direction to be able to sew on your guide. This is the finished work and we're about to do the cotton. That'S what it looks like i'm using this type of razor comb to cut when the blade feels blunt you just take it off, and then you remove the hair that is in it or you can choose to change it either. Ways and the nip area would definitely be flatter than the occipital area because, as i was explaining earlier, you'd want the nip area to be flat, but the receptor area will be a bit up to give it that curve. So, that's why i don't pack a lot of hair at the nip area, but i make sure i space it out a bit as compared to the occipital area. So when i'm cutting, i don't cut a lot of, even though i still cut the occipital area, because i still want the shape, but i make sure i don't cut so much from that side. I just shape it to blend with the nip area and you make sure you cut the sides, the sides of the wig as well, and when you are done cutting through, then you use the scissors to shape the ends. You can still use your cutter to shape the ends, but it depends on how you'd want your ends to be someone's very sharp ends, whatever you'd like to achieve. That'S what's most important, so you do you work with that. So these are the sides that i'm cutting. I make sure that side also goes a bit flatter than the septal area, because i don't want it to look the same as the back. That side will have to go in a bit for the occipital area to bulge out else. You'Re not going to see or get the shape that you want, so the cat is really sharp. Some also want it um feathered, so they use a razor to also cut it so that all depends on you. So this, what is going to look like i'm going to be showing you in my next video how to style how to talk into and style this pixie cut. You wouldn't be able to see its beauty because we haven't been able to style it, but i just want you to see the end result of what we sewed and it still fits perfectly on my canvas head so mind. You just hold the hair and cut through or thin it with it with a razor razor comb just hold the ends of the hair and then cut the essence of this razor or the part that i'm using is to thin out the hair. I don't want it to be so sharp. So that's why i hold the hair and then i cut through so i'm just turning the hair to have that place. Look um, let's um, to have it looking less bulky and, as you are cut into you already know where you'd want your patterns. Ah, the hustle with i need to adjust your money just to get your wake up done, um! So right now, i'm spraying water into the hair onto the hair to keep it flat. You need to be sure of the pattern you want before you cut, because when you are done cutting if you happen to take more of the closure onto the left side - and you cut more there's no way, you can flip it to the right, because the style Is going to change or you're going to have some of the hairs hanging or sticking out or falling back onto the left side, because it's short, so you need to be mindful, as you can see, i parted it to the place. I desire the pattern i desire before um trimming and that's exactly what i've done. So when i'm done with the side, i just come to the front and trim a bit, as i explained that i wanted the front to um the right side to be a bit more than um usual. So that's why i added longer inches to it. As i explained earlier, i use that for b for the front and i use longer inches in front so that i have a mid length, um hair in front, because i don't want the front to be too long. That'S why i did it that way. That'S why i'm spraying the water into it, and then i comb it out before i apply my wrap set, because i would like the rub set to touch every part of the hair, so guys we've come to the end of this tutorial. If you find this tutorial very useful, kindly like kindly subscribe, leave a comment in the comment section below and share i'll, be very grateful. You