How To Safely Overlap Bleach Onto Blonde Hair! | Beauty School Series
- Posted on 04 April, 2018
- Color Lace Wig
- By Anonymous
HI GUYS!
This video has come highly requested so I finally made it happen! Disclaimer: I know there will be plenty of hair dressers that don't agree with me and that is FINE! Let's all try to remember that every one in this industry is unique and has their own way of doing things.
FORMULAS USED:
Schwarzkopf Blonde Me w/ 20 Volume in foils, and 7 Volume on teased ends
Joico Lumishine 8NA Root Tap at bowl for 3-5 minutes
Goldwell Colorance 10P on ends for 5-10 minutes
FOLLOW ME:
Instagram: @jz.styles, @jzstlyes.co, @jessigish
Snapchat: jessigish
BUY HAIR EXTENSIONS: (USE CODE "LETDOWNYOURYOURHAIR" FOR $10 OFF)
Hi everybody, so today's video is something I get questions on all the time. I do a lot of blonde hair and with blonde hair cuz overlapping at times. So I am going to go over my tips and tricks for overlapping bleach onto blonde hair. This can be a really really scary subject, something that we learn not to do in hair school, but there are a few ways to break the rules in a safe way, so stay tuned if you're interested in this video okay. So one of my first tips is to use the switched off blonde me. Lightner, as you can see, right here, has a bond enforcing enhancement in the lightener, which means you do not have to use olaplex because there's something like olaplex built into this Lightner. If you do not use this light nur, I would suggest using olaplex with your Lightner. That'S my number one tip is using olaplex or Lightner that has a bond enhancement in it, because that is going to protect the hair when you're overlapping. So I never mix more than a scoop or a scoop and a half at a time, because if you do that, your Lightner has a better chance of swelling so we're just gon na start off with a scoop and a half. And I am using 20 volume right here, so we're just gon na go ahead and mix this up. I always like to do a finer consistency, so a little more developer rather than more Lightner. Just because it's easier to work with - and I click the product spreads better and another little tip I have - is never use more than 20 volume if you're going to be overlapping Lightner on to the blonde hair. Sometimes I use 7 volumes. Sometimes I use 10, but here I'm using 20 and I'm never gon na go above that, if you need to use 30 in their regrowth or a different developer in their regrowth, just make sure you use 20 and below on the ends. Okay, so there's a few different ways that I like to feather through darker or Golder bands in blonde hair, which causes overlapping at times. As you can see here, she has quite a bit of regrowth and then her ends are pretty blonde, which is nice, but she does have some gold and some dark throughout her ends as well. So I'm going to go through here touch her regrowth and then, as you can see here, she just has a little bit of dark throughout the bottom. So I'm just gently feathering my light node down through it, and this is rule number three just lightly, feathering any bleach through the dark parts and then folding it up. Okay and on this next section, I'm actually going to be taking the lightener all the way through her ends, and the reason being is because sometimes you need to pop open that cuticle just that it takes toner better. We also don't want to get the illusion of hot roots, where her roots, lift really well and her ends are still dull and yellow looking. So what I'm going to be doing is I'm just gently feathering through the ends after I've saturated the root area and as you can see here, I'm just going over it pretty quickly, I'm not trying to really saturate it and it's not fully saturated. I don't know if you could tell and then I'm folding it up into the foil since we have a bond enhancement in here. I'M not super worried about it. I'M also going to watch my foils pretty quickly, but since we just gently feathered through the ends, it's going to be okay, okay - and this is one of my favorite little tips. So I'm going in here saturating that root where the regrowth is and then I'm actually going to feather through the ends down. As you can see right here, I am just feathering through those blonde ends and then I'm actually just going to kick it out of the foil and comb through it and the reason I do this is because it pops open the cuticle. Those ends get some Lightner on it, but brushing through it kind of dries it out a little bit and it not being incubated in the heat of the foil is going to make it so that it stays healthy and strong. Okay and then another rule that I have, which is kind of common sense, but is don't overlap if you absolutely do not need to. We got lucky with this foil. She actually just needs her regrowth to be touched right here and, as you can see, as we extend down lower, we can stop it right where that dark, regrowth stops and we don't have to touch those ends. So not every foil means to be overlapped. Just use your best judgement and do what you think needs to happen a lot of times. We actually don't need to pull the bleach down to the ends inside every foil. We can just do a root retouch, and this is where this little trick comes into play. As soon as the regrowth foils are done, I like to tease out the ends and then just feather Lightner throughout the ends like I am doing here, I'm actually only using seven-volume with the blonde me and I'm just going to be doing this sporadically wherever I feel Like she has a little bit of gold or a little bit of dark to pop those ends open, and this is a really good tip if you are scared to overlap, because this is a safer and more gentle way to do it. One of the most important things when overlapping with blonde hair is to rinse the foils once they are ready, so we just rinsed her back she's sitting in olaplex and the front is still processing okay, so she is now sitting in a root tap of 8 and A lumishine and one of my tips that I actually did not do on her butt that I recommend is, if you do not want to overlap in the foils, you can always do a quick bleach wash at the ball. You can just use bleach, ten-volume and shampoo for 5 to 10 minutes to pop open that cuticle. Another little tip is make sure that you tone the hair very well toners not only counteract unwanted tones, but they can add shine and longevity to your colors. So a lot of time they can seal that cuticle and just give it a nice glaze out the hair looks healthier. Sorry, my dogs are crazy. My last and final tip is to always trim the hair. All of my clients know that it's a rule in my chair that when you are going lighter, it is required that you receive a trim with your service. This is going to keep the hair healthy and intact. You
Comments
TarantulaCandy: this is truly one of the best videos less "go to a professional blah blah" (if I wanted to go to a pro I'd go to one and not search on youtube how to do it) you're actually showing what you're advising, congrats
DelilahZoe: I'm sorta giving myself a crash course in hair school, cause I am really broke and need to do my own hair. THANK YOU, Jessi! You are the BEST TEACHER! <3
Jenni Luv: I went to a professional to get my hair from medium brown to blonde and walked out with highlights. I have been wanting to go to someone else and go completely blonde but I have been scared since I have all over highlights that took me from brown to dark blonde. This is so tedious, I would definitely not do it at home but at least I know now that blonde is possible.
Jen Sheehan: That came out so beautiful!! I love watching your videos! I've been a stylist for 14 years and I'm pretty confident in my skills but I ALWAYS learn new stuff from you!!! You are very knowledgeable and very willing to share your knowledge with others!! You are an amazing person! Thank you so much for putting in the time and effort to put out these videos!! ♥️♥️
BipolarChaos: My daughter wants to do crazy colors, all the time. It’s pretty expensive to take her in every time she wants a new shade. So I started being the hair dresser. Thank you for helping me to NOT turn her hair into super damaged, brittle hay, Barbie doll garbage.
Christel Frappier: One tip, using metal whisk with chemical products can apparently react to the bleach product. Other than that good tutorial and technique. I am a hairdresser myself.
Lpg 8: Beautiful and great tips. I'm having my hair done tomorrow and have jotted down your tips since my hair has been highlighted several times. I'm praying for minimal breakage :)
swtpnay1306: Thank you so much for this!!! It was super helpful and made me feel more confident. I love your videos so much. Please continue to make more! You’re so inspiring ❤️
Little Dreamer: I JUST switched from getting box highlighting kits to THIS stuff. I've used it about 4 times now and it makes SUCH a difference. I have level 5-ish natural hair and can use this stuff with the Schwarzkopf 20 vol and it lifts SOOOO nice!
Katie McCall: I love this client’s color and cut. Everyone thins out my already-fine hair and a lot of people overlap bleach on me and refuse to use olaplex or B3 which I request of all stylists!! I want to find someone like you. Love this hair!
Sara Kjeldsen: One of the freakiest moments ever was when I was a hair model for a modeling gig and the stylist soaked fresh bleach all over my already platinum hair. I screeched and he told me not to worry, it was a gentle solution. He didn't leave it on long though. I will say it became that really lovely ash blonde once he toned it.
Jen Sheehan: How long does it usually take you to do a full head foil when you are being careful to not jeopardize the integrity of the hair by over processing the blonde that's already there? Does it take you longer than when ur doing a full head foil on someone that doesn't already have blonde
Lesley Morley: A truly wonderful stylist , learning more and more from your work .. Thanku Jess
Valerie Ferguson: How long should it take to complete a pass over the head for the ends, mid-lengths and roots, respectively? Thanks in advance to anyone who can answer this!!
Alexa C. Brown: You're work, and all of your tips and knowledge, is wonderful!! Thank you
Kathy: I’m touching up my money piece tomorrow and wanted to make my blonde brighter, this video has been the only helpful one really thank you so much! Sincerely, broke cosmo student and aspiring hair stylist
Stephine Moore: How long does it take you to apply all those foils? Beautiful work !
Claire Raesch: Dang. I wish I lived by you. You are a detailed artist. I have had so many stylists take by blonde, but I’ve never seen anyone do it as detailed and wonderfully as you.
Sophie J: So beautiful and helpful!
MLS: Nice tutorial- THANK YOU=) Her hair is GORGEOUS!!!
Alicia MacKenzie: THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!! This is exactly what I have been looking for!
Jewelz Da Stylist: Everyone else does it showing darker hair. I needed this thank you‼️
Talia Lippe: Well prior to our recent quarantine here in FL. A client who used to see another stylist in our salon, had gotten butchered by said stylist. This stylist over processed her ends with overlapping the lightener with what is believed to be with a high level developer (I have no idea of the formula used). I never saw her in our salon again after that. Then after quarantine, I leave the salon I was at to work for myself inside Sola Salons. During my efforts to regain my clientele as well gain some new ones, she came across my advertisement and gave me a call. As expected for most of us, our clients (even including ourselves) looked a mess due to being stuck at home and everything shut down. She loved the rose gold look!! So rather than overlap on her lightener AGAIN!! We decided to give her hair a break and just touch up her roots with a level 5rv with Olaplex, and cover the insightful blonde with a rose gold tone (also with Olaplex) till we could perform the proper set of treatments to ensure her hair regained some strength and was healthy enough to be lightened again (she wanted it a bit brighter, but it simply wasn’t safe any longer to do so at that moment). Eventually as time went on, I was finally confident enough to Over lap and give her a partial highlight rather then the ombré she was sporting before. So for her roots I applied 30 vol to break through her roots and the 10 vol on her previously lightened hair. It came out amazing!!! Soft, shiny, and very healthy!! Of course I used Olaplex throughout everything.
Felix A. McNeill: Thanks for the tips!!!! It's beautiful!!!
The Cat Lady: Thanks for the fact that the bleach has the bonding ingredients in it. I am definitely going to try this product next time.
Anthony Quintanilla: It’s beautiful I love it , I actually have a question, so I have short hair I’d say almost like pixie cut and shave sides , now I have platinum blonde highlights ( a lot of them actually but also I have my natural dark hair almost as highlights as well , my roots are dark it’s time to retouch it’s a must lol , but I’m thinking of going full Pastel pink I want to do it myself because ( expensive haha) is it ok to also go over the platinum blonde hair or no. ( man I really wish you were here to help me )
DeathtotheAshes: Omg, thank you for this video. I was waiting for it. And you’re sooo right, I tried using 30vol and dragging it a little kick the level 9/10 blond and I got slight breakage. Also, would you mind sharing your ratios for preferred consistency? Do you do 1:2? Or 1:2 1/2?
Brianna Hargus: So helpful
Melissa Stanley: Amazing job. Learned so much.
Rockysmom: Super helpful! Thank you
Megan Mimosa: This helped me a lot thank you
Gerilyn Ballschmieder: I have been highlighting my hair blonde since 2019… and never ever got my hair to be healthy looking like this… what am I missing here?
Joey Riddle: I’ve watched dozens of videos and FINALLY I found you!!!! Thank You
Claire DeSabato: Great tips, thx for sharing that info!
Sherrie Olsen: Love your videos!!!!
TLP: What level were her roots? Your tips are AMAZING!! Love her color!
Mattyice: You are so talented! Great job on the transformation! Can you pls do a video on a shorter haircut thanks!
Amber Billis: How long does it typically take you to foil a whole head like this
Christina Rauch: Sweety, you definitely ARE NOT supposed to use metal when mixing the bleach. But otherwise that was a good video!
Claudia Wilson: What Olaplex product do you add for bonding in other bleaches? Great video!
Rockysmom: What did you mix the gold well 10p with?
Alan Renfroe: Very informative video.
Saige Scrooby: For a bleach wash does it matter what kind of shampoo you use?
Tracey Thomas: Thankyou so much I have similar next week to do thanks for the tips
Yiuglow: Do you follow a specific sectioning technique? I’m a cosmetology student and I feel like I need to learn more on sectioning the hair to achieve a look/technique.
Cynthia N: Hi i have a question. I’m going to highlight my hair again, the last time i did it i only did the top (im not a pro but it turned put very good) my sister and i are going to do the rest soon. I’m not sure if I should overlap my end that have been previously lightened. I would say they are a level 8 and my roots are like a level 6/7. I can’t buy olaplex or blondme in my country because I’m not a licensed hairdresser. I use a 20 vol developer. Would it be safe for me to overlap? They are very gold still and i want them to be lighter but I’m scared of breakage. I have thin but quite healthy hair. Thank you x
Lucy: Thank you very much for the video ❤️
Claudia d: does it matter what developer brand you use with the blonde me bleach? will the bond enforcer still work?
lizzyfashizzy: Beautiful color
Casey Torres: Could you use a higher developer on just the roots and then 10 on the ends? Or would that still give hot roots?
Anna George: Can I use olaplex number 3 if I don’t have the oil bonder?
Ella Clarke: I have blonde streaks in my hair about 60% I wanted to know if it’s possible to bleach the brown parts of my hair with piggy touching the already bleached streaks?
Lela Muse: Gorgeous!
Popy Barua: How long did you spend on this service, including cut and curls to finish. Loved Loved it
Melanie Baker: I thought metal wisks were a no no when mixing bleach.
Jason Gonzales: How about measuring the bleach and developer?
Puvlee: Sorry I don't get it, after the bleaching process you tap the roots with 8.0 lumishine for a smudged effect?
Tay Williams: Okay but wait aren’t you not suppose to use anything metal in bleach?
Kelly Sao: Can you do more hair clients with level 2 going blonde ? Would like to see them
Lance Lanza: can you use water to weaken developer for Blond Me bleach??
Janae Miller: Great video!
Debra Smith: I liked the final result however making it a requirement for a trim would cause me to retreat instantly from any hair dresser,I'm sure you just meant that you would strongly recommend.
Jessica Sanjose: Love it
Josephine Mumford: Hair looks lovely your a very good hairdresser very hard to find in Brisbane AUS.
Kexin Tian: which toner did you use love?
Natalie Orndorff: Love your vids
Danikah Smith: now these rules only appy for level 9 10 correct? and what about a half foil? can I overlap safely if the person isn't as light as they could be and they only have old standard size highlights? I did a half foil bleach over a year ago on a client over a year ago and she wants to go blonde so I'm making sure I don't compromise her in any way.
Kim Evangelista: So beautiful
Lucy Bradley: Why do my blonde ends go so dull and dark after no time? I had my hair bleached and it’s was lovely and baby blonde on the ends and it always gets so dark and yuck after no time. What causes this? I avoid heat and I use clarifying shampoos. I also tone. Help
Kazooki Shaw: beautifull my dream hair. wish you were my hairdresser I can't find a hairdresser that doesn't break my hair off
LoriLou Who: Just a question : I always hear people say not to use metal tools with bleach ?
Nina j cleeve: what toner did you use
JORDAN BASHA: Awesome video
Kim Vanloozenoord: Thank u for the awesome video....clarifi... did u use 30vlm on dark then 2ovlm mid shaft....i often have to use 30vlm top Thank u so much I appreciate your videos...hopefully you will make it to Michigan sometime soon!
Lark Mortensen: What do you mean by leaving the hair healthy and " intact" by trimming the ends when your done bleaching
MLS: GORGEOUS!!=)
C F: My stylist overlapped and I have so much breakage. Do you recommend any products to kinda help the breakage
Melissa Coburn: Did you have to tone it also
Home Schoolie: I don't understand how the feathering makes the bleach less damaging it's still being applies to the hair
Mira. Zeppeli: Pray that I don’t mess up my moms hair
Sara: Now how do I do this on myself?
Hafsa Ahmed: CAN I DO THIS AT HOME!!!
Jen Mc: What if your hair is hard to lift? (Using low volume) I'm Burnett n carry red/orange tones
LYD VINCE CRUZ: Thanks for sharing.Loo_s really .nice. I still cant shke the felling of hair falling off. I get so intimidated.
Camila: I have highlight and I’m trying to bleach all my hair but people keep telling me that not to do it because my hair might burn might fall out what can I do
Tyler Roy: Hi, my hair is naturally blonde and I was wondering what happens if you bleach it. I'm am Male
Miss FitNat: How on earth did you take her from a 7 to so light with 20 vl ?
Nola Susan: I see a lot of brown underneath the top of head. Wish she would have shown the undergrowth after the bleach job.
sari taylor: What toner did you use please huni. And how long did you leave both bleach and toner on for
CL Boymom: Overlap blonde with max 20vol.
ALICE GOLDENVALLEY: What is the name of the song at 1:50 please? :D thank you for this video!
Andy Obregon: ❤️
icefigureskater liz: Excellent
Mason Dissick: Am I the only one not understanding why she teased it?
Night Nymph: Wait she’s using a METAL whisk???
Erin Kurbes: Wait whaaat you shouldn’t use metals with your bleach, should you?.....
Sheila AM SheiShei: Amazingggggg
King👑Daughter: You can do my hair
Marian Scissors: what happens when a client comes in with a really brassy base like level 6 brass- but then and nice highlights
Jay B: