Modern Mullet Haircut For Women | Long Layered Haircut Step By Step

Like becca said, we're here at sandy springs van michael location and we've got a great model with us today. Dwindling thanks and women's actually one of our hairstylists here at sandy springs and also at the barber shop as well. She'S multi-talented she's, taking care of women and men on a daily basis and children and children, and we cut gwendolyn's hair back in december, wanted to kind of do something a little creative. So we did a really longer variation of a mullet, still keeping some length in the front we're going to kind of go through that and redo it touch it up, decide what we're going to do with the fringe. Last time, i'll be honest with you, i wasn't that happy with the fringe. Afterwards, gwen wears her hair curly most of the time, and i wasn't really a big fan of the way it sat. So we're probably going to leave a little bit extra length on that fringe, almost have like a motorcycle visor helmet fringe coming around so when it's curly it'll have some leverage to pop up and not be too short. So i'm just finishing up. We wanted to cut this dry just to kind of save some time to be honest with you, so i'm just finishing up flat ironing getting everything really smooth and nice we're going to be doing this off of a middle part. Why are you choosing to work off of the middle part so that way, she just has the option to kind of move it around a lot of times. Gwen will just let the hair decide where it's going to sit when she gets up in the morning kind of gets ready for work. So we want to leave that. Let'S say you were to have somebody with a mullet with a side part. Would you change up the technique that you're going to be doing right now? I would change up the distribution of each part, each section that we're going to be doing to sit even in that side part. So that would change and we'll talk about that when we get it started, because that does make a big difference. If you cut hair using a middle part, but that person doesn't comb their hair down the middle, the layers are never going to be even you're, always going to have one side shorter than the other, and for me i'm just never a big fan of that. I know it works for some people, you know, but we want to keep everything as balanced as possible, even in a editorial avant-garde. Type haircut like to have balance throughout the shape. So that's what we're gon na we're gon na knock out today, so while you're still flat ironing, will you tell us a little bit about your background? How long have you been doing hair? So this is my 21st year in the business. I started back going to an aveda institute in new orleans and then moved on to dallas to work at the original, tony and guy location for a few years, moved back to new orleans and then up to new york, and i worked at cutler salon in soho. For about two years, i got to work on a lot of editorial magazine stuff under the mentorship of leon, gorman, great editorial, hair, stylist out of new york and then moved down to atlanta, and i used to work at our buckhead location here and then went down To the van michael in miami - and i know you guys are already trying to count how many moves that is, but we're not done so just hold on to miami for a moment. Came back up to atlanta and worked at another van michael location, then moved back to new orleans and was at paris parker for a number of number of years and then another aveda salon there in new orleans, keith noonan keith. If you're watching have you been and then figured, it was kind of time to come back to atlanta, so i've been back here now for about three and a half years. Working at the sandy springs location got some great great, stylists and colorists here, as they do at every spot. Now have you always specialized in cutting and styling? Oh yeah me and color don't mix it's like. I knew that when i went to school, though it was one of those things right from the gate. What do you think the biggest draw to hair cutting for you personally is like opposed to color for me personally color there was too much of a what. If and actually i don't see, colors i'm not necessarily colorblind, but i do have trouble seeing some things that other people see like tonality and stuff like that yeah for sure and then just the chemistry of it. I was never a fan. So this to you is a lot more predictable. You have a lot more control exactly so for me personally, like when i'm i'm kind of the same way like you know, chemistry and i don't mix, but you know like i feel like all like color like i feel like you can go into it and you See ash and then they still see gold and then there's just like this discrepancy, whereas like there is no discrepancy when it comes to shape, we can all agree like on shape, so that, for me, is a huge draw personally well, the funny thing is in high School, i hated geometry, and so here we are now daily right. Doing geometrical shapes having to understand. If we do this, this is going to happen. So it's kind of a fun thing to just go through, and i mean once you know those rules. If you do x, y or z, you know this will happen on most hair types and now it's learning to unbreak those rules. Combine certain things together, create new, looks yeah, it's just it's fun. I mean you see, you see instant gratification out of your guests when you get that look in there that they're really really hoping to have. That'S that's satisfying totally as a hairdresser. You know that kind of quote an old saying. You know. If you look good, you feel good right and girl. You look good [ Laughter, ] yeah, so this is what was done in december and we're going to go for something a little bit different. So i'm excited to kind of see what happens well and it's a different color now too so yeah. So that's even cooler yeah for sure. You know we think about texture right and there's a lot of different ways to texturize hair from point cutting razoring twist cutting slide cutting on and on, but color chemical services is also another great way to add texture to hair, especially when you have hair lightened as Much as winds, it's really going to kind of already give it effect as if you've gone in you've done some kind of texturizing technique. So tell us why you're choosing to cut dry opposed to what is it simply for time purposes or do you feel like this? Is a preference of yours or what do you think? Okay, okay cool? Can you describe gwendolyn's natural texture because she doesn't ever really wear it this straight? So can you tell us what it actually looks like so gwyndolin's got well, she does wear it straight. Sometimes, but yeah yeah she's got curly, hair and, of course, like with most curly hair. It'S not all consistent throughout the entire shape. So you know there are some spots: that's a little bit straighter than others. You know there's a little bit of frizz going on as well. So would you say that you know cutting dry would help you just maintain like a cleaner line like throughout or okay. It'S gon na. Let me just see the shape now. You know: we've really been working on curly, hair, textured here, hair here in van michael, you know we have a couple of stylists and colorists who are now in charge of that department really trying to educate the staff as well as the guests as well. You know we want to send people home with the understanding of hey. My hair is this way, but i can still make it look great without having to straighten it and flat iron and that whole thing i can wear it natural and it worked for me, and it's been a great addition to the van michael education program to have That knowledge, how to almost create functionality for sure yeah how to use the right products, how to be able to distinguish some curl patterns from another, and then also you know in this day and age, saying the right things right. We don't want to insult anybody by maybe misusing a word and it's it's not out of harm. It'S just out of really taking that's anything. You know we don't know. Oh, if i say this or this to a person, they may take it more in a negative manner. So we've been working on a lot of that and it's really started to help and show the staff that we are capable of doing all hair types and textures. So i've gone through i've taken a central profile section from the forehead to the back of the hair. This is where i'm going to start with my overall initial guide, so i'm going to cut short going out to long. We want to preserve most of this length here in the back. I will clean that up after we do the interior of the shape. Once i do that, we're going to go through i'm going to take a radial from behind the ear right behind the apex and then we'll work on that front area. Okay, why are you choosing to start in the front? Because i want to keep enough length for her fringe, i don't want to take that too short. So by starting there, i know how short i'm actually taking that and i'll be able to preserve that for kind of our visor later on. So i'm just pulling this straight up. Perpendicular to the floor, gwyndolin sitting perfect spot legs aren't crossed shoulders back head up right. You know. That'S one thing: i see a lot of times, especially with younger stylists they're, so caught up in what they're doing technically that they forget to check what their guest is doing. Is your guest helping you out or are they more of a hindrance and how the overall look is going to be? You know someone's legs are crossed. Does it make that big of a difference? Sometimes it does sometimes it doesn't. But for me something like that: i'd rather play the game and do the correct rule. So we don't have to go back and try to correct something later on or if the guest's head is tilted or you know not upright in one section. But it is in another section: you just create that much more inconsistency and that much work to fix later on for sure. So luckily the room that we're in right now we've got mirrors on the side mirrors in the front. So i'm going to look see i'm coming straight up where i need to be looking that side mirror perfect, i mean if every salon was this way, that'd be amazing. I think we'd all be a little bit more self-conscious, though than what we already are. So i'm going through and cutting everything very blunt. You know some people would prefer to go and start adding texture already, but since gwyndolin has old texture from the last cut and from the color, i'm not a fan of putting texture on top of texture, i like to get a clean line and then come back And then recreate new texture, i don't want those ends to look like this in just a couple of days or a couple of weeks. I want there still to be some strength within the haircut, especially the fact that it is going to be curly, and we know those ends aren't going to stick together like they normally would with straight hair. Now, are you continuing to just work back that center section? All the way through front to back the central profile is continuing. On now past, the crown of the head still pulling straight up perpendicular to the floor, keeping that short out to long just a clean lean line as we work our way back, and this is why i'm also waiting to cut the length afterwards. So it'll kind of strengthen up that bottom from us already layering it and give us just a nice line down at the bottom. So we can see right at the end. Just have a few little strands to cut see that stuff is really just kind of dropping out right through there already start to see where our shortest point is going to be right in through that aspect. So here's our shortest layer through the back and then what we have in the front. So now i'm just going to go back and re-park down the center dividing that central profile section in half. So i hope everyone out there has been doing well through all this pandemic. All that stuff, i know, california's had a hard time. California, we're with you. I think about you all the time all the hairstylists out there appreciate it through. Don'T worry, hang in there for sure just continue to play the game. Wear your masks, keep everything clean and we'll be back, i'm back to 100 within the salon. Soon enough, all right! So now i'm going to go through i'm going to take a radial parting. So radio parting is something that's going to go up over the top of the head, usually it's from the top of the ear either at the crown or the apex. A number of years ago i started taking radials at the vertical hairline behind the ear and i started doing that because if we come here, then we're leaving that opening here, which sometimes can create a hole. So, by taking a radial from either the crown or the apex to that vertical hairline we're now more than likely not going to have that happen because that's out of the way - and we have nothing but strength on the back side of that. So i'm going to go just behind the apex of the head, sit down to that vertical parting on the side, we're just going to clip that out of the way, so i've been trying to think i wanted to cut the top a little bit differently than i Did last time, i honestly wasn't that big of a fan of how it came out afterwards, so i've been thinking about it this weekend and this morning and so well, we'll see how it comes out, see what happens still kind of feeling it out for sure. So what i'm going to do is so i have that that initial guide right through this area, i'm going to take vertical sections, starting at the front working our way back over directing everything to there using that guide, to create a concave or short to long shape, Which will just really release that weight leave a little bit of weight down here at the bottom and then just come in and collapse that shape on both sides? Now, if i'm not a fan of that, i can go through once again. Take those verticals combing them forward with over direction and cut it square, releasing more weight throughout the entire shape and then having that come down and sitting it a little bit more into gwyndolin's, ear area. Okay, i always love hearing. You speak in the way that you teach, because it's your methodologies i feel like you're so pronounced like you've, really studied this, and what advice would you give younger ones that are just starting out if they want to become as well versed and understanding behind their craft? As you are like what were some things that you did so for me, when i got into hairdressing, i was already a little older than what most hairdressers would be getting into it right. We see most people 19 to kind of 21, that's the average age. We see people getting into hairdressing right. I was 28 29 and i'd already had a couple of careers doing things and so for me, i wanted to learn as much as i possibly could in as quick as time imaginable. So the aveda institute that i went to had some videos. Of course they were on vhs at the time of yoshitoya from san francisco and if anybody knows yosh, amazing hairdresser and even more amazing educator, so i started watching those and then i went to a hair. Show and the tony guy art team was at this hair show and i talked to them and learned about their education program. That'S why i moved to dallas after school, because i wanted to get as much education as possible and at the same time i started buying up every book. Every video tape dvd that i could get my hands on from everybody. I mean my collection and dvds. I have about 150 dvds of about 80 to 90 books and they're from everybody from paul mitchell, american crew, toni and guy aveda. That would go through and learn everyone's verbiage everyone's techniques and take everything that i possibly could be it bad or good. You know i'm not gon na lie. There'S there's been a class or two that i've taken. It'S like that. Wasn'T that great of a class? But i learned things in that class that i would not want to do in the salon atmosphere so going through cutting that slight shorts along that concave shape not cutting past. My second knuckle letting that fall back down and kind of starting to see how that's collapsing within there, and i really want that hair to push down, especially when it's curly kind of sit in and not bellow out through there. So i'm more than likely going to keep this concave through this front area. Well, you can already see the difference like so the left side. You know versus the right side, there's so much more expansion almost like it doesn't work as well as what's going on right now on the right side or my right, your left, whatever. So that's the thing too. You know if, if, if you give your haircut room to be maneuvered around, don't get yourself set on just one thing like you know what that's not necessarily working, i can change that shape and make it better or your guest. Do you know ryan, nicole, garcia? Yes, they said, go dj, that's my dj! So for for all those people that that don't know me, i've been a dj since 1992 and for a very long time here at van michael, i did go by dj and it's just recently that i've changed it to david. So the long-standing joke is, i'm dj. The dj not really so back on that on that question, though becca you know, there's a lot of information out there and i try to tell students all the time it's really going to be. What you put in will dictate what you get out. So if you want to put the time in, if you want to spend time at home and watch videos and learn it's going to pay off in the end, you know if you just want to only learn when you're going to class, it can show for some People, it goes with anything in life. You know totally, you got ta put the effort out there. I think it's just as important, and i mean it's kind of like dating it's just as important to figure out what you don't like, as well as what you do. What what you do like and um in the midst of figuring out what you don't like? You really do: figure out what you do so and like that's. Why i feel like learning classic technique is so necessary because and then continuing the education further, because then you get to kind of develop your own style and swing to things which is really cool, very true yeah, just because you've been doing hair for x amount of Years that doesn't mean your education should stop. I mean i've been doing this 21 years. I still buy dvds off of ebay. All the time buy books when they come out now a lot has changed within the industry. Concerning education, you know things aren't as long as what they once were. The new generation of hairstyle is coming out. They do want things quicker, they don't want to watch a video, that's an hour and a half long. You know they want something that just they can kind of sit down and knock out pretty quick and get the information out of it, and i think we're really seeing that throughout the industry with people putting out education, you know tony and guy's. Last video, i mean those videos were 10 minutes long. You know we're trying to do that at van michael now, where we have short little videos of different techniques, different things that people can do that you could sit at home and watch and maybe not take out your whole evening. But it's been it's been, you know. Half an hour or 45 minutes getting some education just looking for that guide, still creating that concave shape coming through marina twigs said hi jinx reina reina is an amazing hairdresser. Over on the north shore of new orleans, i've had a pleasure of working with reina for a number of years and known her for even longer. I saw that haircut. You did the other day right now. Look good love so coming through and you can see. I'Ve got some extra stuff and i just added a little bit more from the back to this, so nobody freak out. I expect that hair to come off right there and once again, just cutting very blunt, i'm going to add texture into the shape afterwards. I just want a clean line for right now. I want to get rid of that old texture. I don't want gwen's hair to look so thin on the ends that she needs another haircut in a couple of weeks so with this, and we hear this all the time utilize, your mirrors go through and let's kind of see how that balance is looking. Let'S move that shape around a little bit, we're still going to do that that visor fringe here at the end, to really open that up. I'M just looking at what's in front of that radial, i'm feeling pretty good. I like the compression here of the shape. It'S sitting in we'll take some weight out of there afterwards to kind of get that negative space to really help out and push that in a little bit deeper, but she also looks like a sheepdog right now. It'S like that year. You were cousin it for uh halloween gwendolyn when we last hot plastic hair is so hot to wear, while you're cutting hair and blow drying, but it was so worth it yeah. Didn'T you win that year? Yes, girl! Yes, oh yeah: what were you dj? He was boy george washington, so at van michael we have a huge halloween, competition and um, because everybody in here is so creative, like the costumes in here on halloween or gnarly, and dj and gwendolyn go head to head every year. So i did his makeup, though. So you know yeah, okay, all right so once again, just re-establishing that center parting, i want to keep that cleanliness, especially with the concave shape. We all know anyone that cuts concave shorts along that shape, sits in there like that little v. So you want to keep that you don't want to take it too far and have that offset one way or the other so make sure that we keep that cleanliness now, starting in the back that radial, i'm going to pivot and i'm going to pivot. Starting from the side working to the back on both areas so going to take that first section to answer a quick question: joanna we are located in sandy springs georgia and we work at van michael salon, we're a compartmentalized salon, so we specialize so david is a Specialized hair cutter here, which means we do not do color um yeah, so that's where we're at hey joanna, so i've got my first section. I'Ve got some previous from that last vertical and then some pie shape of what was sitting behind that radial. Where our length is going to really really sit so once again, i'm going to comb that straight up perpendicular to the floor, and i'm going to over direct i'm going to travel. That section to the last vertical section that i cut. So it's here and we're going to move it slightly forward and that's going to become a stationary guide for the rest of my left side of this haircut and over the years. I'Ve always found that i cut the left side of hair first and i don't know why. Just one of those things that started and has never stopped so you're pushing you're over directing i'm pushing i'm pushing forward i'm over directing forward, which means you're going to gain a little bit of length in the back, correct, okay and the further. I go back. The more length i will gain so we can see there is my section there's my guide and same thing short going out to long or concave. If anybody has any questions at all, please feel free to ask we'll literally answer anything. It doesn't just have to be about hair, cutting we'll tell you how our day is going [, Laughter, ], so becca for you as a hair stylist. Let'S try to turn the table. Okay. What do you? What do you consider yourself? What do you like to to have come in or what do you like to see walk out? It'S so funny, because i feel like i've changed it's like it changes every. I would say a year for me so um i used to be into really really strong shapes because i felt like they were the hardest to cut and i feel like it was the most thought provoking for me like to create really strong lines and really like Just just building shapes, i guess and um now i've gotten really heavy into loose lived-in texture and i think the reason is is because you can still build shapes um that are really strong, but have the natural texture do the work for you. So i think that it's cool to kind of have like that mix going on, if that makes sense, yeah for sure well, your hair has also kind of changed accordingly, too. It'S it's really funny because, like it's like whenever i feel like your clientele, definitely matches you. You know what i mean, and so when i had a really short bob above the chin, that's when i found i had the most clients come in and say yo. I want to cut my hair off um and now that my hair has grown out. I feel like people are like: oh yo, like you, don't style your hair. I don't want to either you know, but my haircut is a classic strong technique and my texture just kind of like lives in it. If that makes sense, also cut by dj, he follows directions. Well, so i'm going through now on the last side of that pivoting for the left part of the haircut. So i've worked from that first section: i'm just taking pivoting partings working our way around over directing all that to the radial coming short up to law joanna. We are not near savannah savannah's about five hours away. We are about um, ten minutes right outside of uh atlanta, yeah buckhead. Sorry, i'm going through again combing all the way from that bottom. I want to make sure all that is getting combed straight up. Okay, so getting that comb in there and bringing that around and getting that working right up through there. You see, we just have just a little bit left to cut on that first section, there's my concave part, and so you can tell because of the over direction he's not having as much hair to cut every single section. He works with right, correct we're saving that length at the perimeter. We want as much length back here as possible. I mean it's really kind of creating super super long shape and you see all that texture like and he hasn't even texturized like everything's, been cut, really really clean and he's maintained so much texture throughout. So to feel like you always have to point cut through everything you cut is just it you might not have to it. Just may be a matter of you changing techniques. So that's i think again, where, like education comes in handy and really studying your craft and trying to figure out, you know how to combine all these classic techniques and inspiration too totally so past. Couple days, i've been looking at inspirational photos predominantly on instagram. These days you know it's, we don't really get the magazines like we used to. You know that whole area for hairdressers has kind of really disappeared. You do see a magazine every now and then, but instagram has become a great inspirational source and for me i just started following them a couple of months ago, but an instagram page called lay journal has some great great photos from some amazing hairdressers all over the World and a couple of days ago, they posted a shoot, i believe it's from japan and they had a couple of shapes along this line and it really kind of inspired me and made me think about how i was going to do this and really kind of Recreate from what i did last time, so now, i'm on the right side. I'Ve taken another pie, shaped section pivoting off that point right here over directing everything forward to our stationary guide, cutting that concave and you can see the over direction and also too like. I feel like body positioning plays a huge huge, huge role in hair cutting and maintaining balance and david's body positioning has been good this whole time. I always tell people so i got this from a mentor when i was in school and i was lucky enough to have this guy craig boute. The little cajun come in a couple of days a week at the aveda institute in cummington and really kind of spend some time with man. One of the things that he talked about with body positioning is always trying to leave your body open to be able to move around. You don't want to get into a position where you're so locked that you can't move from side to side. You know take a step back open your arms up, have your shoulders spread apart and have that ability to move around if you're, just locked in and you're trying to cut hair like this? Where are you going right? You can't do well, you can't see either and then you run into the potential of either like one not make being able to maintain a clean line and or over directing um or building up weight or collapsing your shape. I mean i really do think that taking a step back even when you're not holding the hair is vital to kind of evaluating everything. You'Re doing. Um gwendolyn hannah said that your color is beautiful. Thanks, hey hannah, so those that don't know anything about ben, michael or our culture. Hannah is van michael's, new creative director for a cut started. I guess it's been a month now, right hannah. I think it's like two months or something yeah. It'S been a minute and she's kind of got things rolling. She has a passion for hair. We got some sick t-shirts dude like up in here now we got all kinds of fun things going and actually i actually get to be dj. The dj next week for an event hannah's putting on for chattahoochee riverkeeper, so that'll be a good time. Hopefully it doesn't rain all right. So i'm coming back into my last section, i'm just going to park that right down the middle, really maintain that consistency and cleanliness. You know there's a lot of different hairdressers out there, there's hairdressers that are just visual and just pull up sections comb it to where they think it needs to be and cut. For me, i've always been more technical in the overall shape itself, but then creating something fun within it. I'Ve always been. Let'S learn the rules. Let'S follow the rules, then we can break those rules. So here's my last section there's a little bit more to cut on this side. It'S just because of the previous haircut. Somebody wants to know what type of music do you dj uh these days, it's very deep house down tempo and reggae dub, so fun. Okay, i have a question. I have a hair question, so um the way that you are holding the hair while cutting this concave layer. Why are you not standing on this side and cutting up like? Why are you choosing to cut down so for me, and we had this this conversation a couple weeks back in our weekly van michael cutting classes? We do now have we teach where people can stand? You know a lot of people are having a hard time cutting they need to keep their fingers the same way for me. After doing this, for so long, i've just been able to develop that technique where i can keep my finger pointed at the correct angle. This way, or this way and and you know, either cut down or cut up, some people do prefer just to cut up, and so they would move to this side right and do here. But for me also, if you're pulling that hair to that stationary guy and if you're not maintaining consistency, do you over direct it too far and the same thing could happen by by pushing it into it. But it's just so you're saying that there's potential to over direct too far by pulling because technically you'd be pulling. If you were standing on this side, correct, okay, but but it could happen with with as well totally and you need to maintain. I think just your consistency throughout the entire shape yeah, but it's also knowing how you cut hair and your technique yep. For me, i've been able to do that and kind of stay where i want to stay behind the shape for most of the haircut and not have an issue with one way or the other, so we go through. We can see now just all that layering in that part, even though it was shorter in the center, you can still see it was kind of created. It looks so healthy yeah in that layering pattern where it's coming down. We have consistency all the way through. You know some people will go through and they'll really disconnect the shape. For me personally, i love disconnection, but something like this and keeping this much length. I want to have more of a flow throughout it. I don't want it to just stop here and then pop all the way around right, especially since she is going to wear her hair curly more times than not. I want that to come up, because if this was much shorter and it wasn't connected and then she wears that curly, it's going to sit way up here and this is going to sit kind of down here right. I don't want that. I want that to blend and have a nice flow going all the way to the bottom and again i feel like this creates like almost like a sense of like functionality too, whereas like when that curl does kind of like bounce up. Like i mean it, just falls right into place right. You know what i mean into the perfect place, all right, so we're going to go through we're going to hit with the lens fringe. Like i said, i honestly - and this is being honest with myself and being honest with you guys - i didn't like her fringe last time, so i'm going to keep it a little bit longer. Do you feel, like you, took it too short, yeah, okay for sure, and that happens right? Yes, sometimes sometimes that guest comes back to you and and trust you some more and let you do it again. Sometimes you never see them again so but own up to anything that you do. You know it's. It'S a learning mistake, it's not a it shouldn't, be a bad mistake. It should just be something to learn and progress from for the future. Well, sometimes you have an idea in your head and then you go for it and then you're like well that didn't work out. You know like even after knowing everything you know. Sometimes it still doesn't work out true. Well that and cutting straight hair and curly hair. I mean the unpredictability of curly hair is, is a lot to contend with and with my hair at certain lengths it brings out the curl and at other lengths they don't curl, so it just it's really hard to cut and turning. It does a great job. So you guys can see i've taken a triangular section, probably about two inches from her hairline to that central parting out to her low recession. So when cutting a fringe or bangs, i never want to go past this because soon, as you go back past that and we've all probably done it, you create a shelf yep. So if you stay within the realm of where that low recession is and never go, past that point you'll be okay unless you're just doing severe fringe or bang coming all the way to the back. Okay, if i'm in your way, you've got to talk so i'm going to just pull this up just going to let that sit right in the comb. So i'm going to cut it everything pulled forward, so it's going to round out to the sides just a little bit and that's about right where we're going to go with this and because there's slight elevation, there's going to be slight layering, which will create texture. Also right correct and a little bit of softness on that top yep, like i said, i'm going to leave this longer because of what happened last time, and i don't want it to happen again. I have very little tension, i'm not trying to yank her head forward. I'M just getting the comb in there and then stopping and grabbing i'm actually not pulling her hair any tighter than what i did with the comb. Stopping at that second knuckle throw and see it just created that slight roundness coming around and even though it still looks a little sheepdog-ish, i'm good, that's where i want it all right. So, let's go through i'm going to do some texturizing, real, quick and then right at the end, we'll have gwyndolin stand up because of the length of her hair, whatever hair it gets to the point where it's hitting the back of the chair. I will always have my guests stand up. Oh my god, i'm at chair length now you're at your length. That'S not fair! So i found over the years, if you're, trying to cut hair in and around this area, to about right here it can create a little bump. So just have your guests stand up, stand behind the chair, make sure they don't lock their legs. Just comb everything nice and clean and cut that line, and they can sit back down and finish or do whatever it is that you're going to do so, i'm going to go through and predominantly just point cut deep point cut: gwyndolin's hair. I want to create a lot of seamlessness within this shape and because of the texture of her hair, i don't want to do anything. That'S going to be a razoring technique like slicing anything along those lines because of what's going to happen just to the ends. So i watch david cut a lot and behind the chair, i feel, like i texturize quite a bit because again, i'm still kind of trying to break out of that cutting super clean lines, all the time on everybody and mixing up my techniques. And what have you so um? Why do you feel like you're able to get away with not texturizing as much? Do you think it's just the way, your the techniques you choose like? What do you think a lot of it? I mean, of course, it really kind of comes down to the guest. Does that? Does that guess need that much texturizing right, you know. Does the shape need that much texturizing? I will texturize most haircuts, but a lot of times. It may not be that extreme. Even now, it's not that extreme, and this is something that you know i feel like. If i was cutting a mullet, i would texturize some crap out of it and mine with with gwyndolin's hair, though, is her hair as curly yeah. If i was to go through and just scatter, this shape out just non-stop either you know going through one way or coming in this and and left it to where that hair was like that right. When she wore it curly there would be no substance yeah. It would be too sparse yeah, so everything has to be for a reason. Don'T just start doing something because you saw somebody else. Do it right? Oh man, she she was twist cutting and doing this and doing that i'm gon na do that right! Well, why are you doing it well, and i think again, that's just like why i like watching you cut hair. So much is because you know again it's just it's not necessary on everyone like most, especially when you've worked so hard on building your shape. You know to have to just go through and deconstruct. It is just it's a bummer dj really thinks about. The end result he's very methodical, yeah. For sure i mean i i saw a long time ago. This guy do hair on stage with a couple of other people and he finished before everyone else, so he decided well. He had to keep cutting so he kept texturizing, he kept texturizing and he kept texturizing. And for me it was a learning experience because he texturized the shape so much that the shape actually changed. It was no longer the haircut that he intended it to be, and that really resonated with me from a finishing standpoint to once again, are you over doing something yeah, sometimes when it's done it's done, you know if everybody else is finished before you are you're finished Before everybody else sweep the stage sit down stay in your lane, dude sweep the stage, engage with the audience. Whatever be the hairspray shout out to jay yeah dude aj, good job sweeping yeah man you'd be doing it, so i'm going to use that mirror. Unfortunately, i can't see that forward glass is on but start moving that hair around looking at that texture see. If i want to create a more kind of like right there, i feel we can kind of break that up just a little bit right at the end of that fringe, and then also an important part too, is once you kind of get to a point. You think you're finished texturizing, have your guests put their hands in it and feel around and for sure, certainly they think they're, the ones wearing a haircut. Not you well, and it's so funny. Every time i say feel that out for me, they're always like what i'm like touch your hair, you're gon na, be the one touching it more than me like. You need to feel it. You know yeah. They need to be happy, so you can see that there. That'S from the from the back section: it's not something i missed, don't put me on blast. You know we get the question a lot of times when we're teaching classes and things like that. How do you know how to do a creative or avant-garde haircut? You got to know how to do the basics. It'S all that's all any haircut is right, is some form or combination of basic haircuts, combined to create new shapes, and at this point, is there anything left really to create it's all a new take on just something. That'S already been done or for any young hairdressers, just educate yourself get as much education as you can. It'S out there, it's on youtube, everybody and their mom has an education channel. Now, yes, you know that's all i saw this morning. I hear a poop has some glasses online through hair brain. It'S like 20 bucks, i mean 20 for a year's worth of education or a lifetime worth of education is worth it. I feel like in the world of like instant gratification, where we can order our food, like that, where we can search anything there's no, like i mean we can literally look up anything. We want all the time we have access to everything at the touch of our fingertips. This is still a craft that it's like you have to take time. It takes so much time, you're teaching your hands, how to do something brand new. You know for sure. It'S just it takes time, you're, not a machine you're, not a machine you're, not a robot, dude and don't be afraid to fail. There'S any new hairdressers out there don't be afraid to fail. Don'T let it get to a point where you're discouraged, but just take everything as a learn, experience and don't be afraid to ask for help hey kirsten. Thank you. She said looking good kirsten all right, so, let's kind of spin going around. Let'S see here in the mirror, um you can see, we still have those ends to clean up. Those ends are looking a little. A little beat up a little haggard, but i'm feeling pretty good about that that texture that i've created in there with what's already been created with the bleaching david, taking a step back to kind of like turn his guests around and look in the mirror. I would say is just again making sure that he takes that extra step with his client and not only that but his his own work just so, he can see a little bit better. I feel like again when you're standing on top of something for so long. Even if you know what you're doing and you're confident in what you're doing, you still may see something visually that you don't love. So i think it's worth just turning them around in the mirror and or just taking a few steps back yourself to really analyze the shape. Well, even lighting makes such a difference. Yes - and i found that spot that i don't love so right here, right at gwen's ear, so because i pulled that up and texturized up here, it still kept it a little solid down at the bottom. So i'm just going to go in and just do some deep, deep point cutting right through there now i've had this conversation the other day with someone about texturizing. For me, personally, with someone with longer hair, it's very rare that i'll go past the midpoint of long hair now, with short hair men's haircuts, pixies things like that, it's a little bit more difficult. We got to kind of get in there and do it, but when you get into longer shapes like this, it's again it's my personal take. I don't like to go past the midpoint of someone's hair length, all right cool, so i'm feeling better about that. Come back! Just add a little bit more right here and i'm going in not exactly parallel, i'm slightly creating a little bit of an angle within that shape, if you're just going in parallel to the length of the hair, you're, more removing weight and not really creating any movement. So i want to create a little bit of movement by having that that angled, scissor and yeah, i call them scissors, not shears. I call them scissors just kidding. I call them scissors too, all right cool, so i feel pretty good about that. When how you feeling, i can't see she feels great, she feels awesome wholeheartedly my friend so now, i'm gon na just get gwen to come stand behind the chair, real quick swing. I mean cut up that length. Come back here. Oh you look cute. So when doing this on a on a day-to-day basis behind the chair, i'm always big about consistency. I'M always saying the same thing to every person right so i'll have someone come here. I'M like i want you stand right here for me, you can use the back of the chair of support. Just please don't lock your legs and no dancing, because someone will pass out on you. Somebody will pass out on you. Especially. Are you serious? It happened to me on the sun. Oh no, i was a teenage girl and yep. I said you're leaning and she said i know and then she just kind of started to lean into me, but she was fine but yeah. She locked her knees. So now i say: don't lock your knees and it's maintaining that consistency on doing that, once you kind of get into that routine, it really helps out. So i'm going to come down just get that stuff right at the bottom. No elevation combing everything straight down once again. Somebody might want to go through and point cut this, i'm thinking about when she's wearing the shape, not straight so i still want strength at the bottom if she's wearing it curly and it's over texturized, it's really going to show. So i want to keep that little bit of a harder line and just have more texture and movement with inside the shape itself, and just in general i mean if you go through and you point cut too much pretty soon in a week or two it'll look Like i need a new haircut, two sparks come through just get a couple, little guys right there, just fine detailing you know, sometime really highlighted hair can be tricky and some of those guys need to be cut a little bit shorter than the actual shape. So just go back and find those guys that maybe spent too much time out in the sun and got a little too burned, get those guys off cool. Let'S have a seat all right, so we're going to go through and i'll just finish up. Quinn'S, hair kind of just recap, really quick and then i'll finish the styling and go through there. So we started off by taking a central profile from the forehead back to behind the crown, pulling everything straight up, perpendicular to floor and cutting short up out to long right and that's going to create our initial guide for the entire rest of the haircut. I then took a radial behind the apex of the head back to behind the vertical hairline behind each ear, working vertical partings sections over directing everything to that front, cutting concave short out to long back behind the radial. We would have a stationary guide as our last vertical section now with pivoting sections back through here over directing the left side to that stationary guide: combing everything straight up short out to long concave, everything on our right side; pivot it to the back comb. To that stationary vertical guide here straight up short out to long concave and then there's our overall initial shape. So we started off before we. We got dwindling dried used, a little bit of uh botanical, strengthening leave-in treatment, just to give a little bit of conditioning through there. It'S aveda's answer to olaplex, and then we use some thickening tonic throughout the entire shape, just to kind of beef up the hair. A little bit and i'm actually just going to finish off with a little bit of air control, do you need a hair dryer? How do you feel so far so good? Do you like to finally see? Yes, okay, excuse us, while we're trying to hook up hair dryers and whatnot, all right did you plug it in? I think it just plugged in. Oh all right, so we're just going to go through i'm going to finish off with a little bit of hairspray. That'S critical: you need me to hold it, i'm a really big fan of spray waxes and very few people make spray wax anymore. So i want this texture to really kind of show off. So what i'm going to do is i'm going to have glen kind of tilt her head back a little bit, i'm going to put it on medium heat and low speed, start moving that hair around and then just get that hairspray spray. It right in this way. Just kind of spraying that right up underneath, so you can already see just really separating that hair. That'S great too. If you've got someone that wants, maybe a lot of lift spraying hairspray up underneath the shape is going to give more lift at the root than spraying straight down. Like i don't understand why people will take hairspray and they've done this big voluminous dallas shape and then i'm going to spray right on top of it, and the pressure of that hairspray is going to push that shape down spray up or spray in, especially if it's A really wet hairspray for sure i'm just going to just go through just kind of rub my fingers through it break it up a little bit. I don't want to break it up too much and i just see in the mirror that we really can't see him. I'M trying i don't want to stand behind you, i keep moving and i'm like. I don't know where to go i'll, just break that up right through there. Do you guys want to see the back of david's shirt, or do you want to see the hair? They said, hair, here's the mirror there you go there, you go there, we go it's a clean mirror cute, so we'll have gwendolyn stand up. That'S always the grand reveal. So you see we kept a lot of that length right. That was. That was really the main goal today was key, but gwendolyn's been growing it up for quite some time from a much much shorter haircut, but she still wanted something going on inside some something exciting, so we can see there's our shortest layers. Right i mean we've got some short stuff going on, but we still have a lot of substance within the haircut. It'S not so thin throughout it that when she wears it curly, it's just going to look stringy and we want. We want to keep that strength and then same through here kept a stronger fringe. This time, just kind of coming around gwyndolin has a little bit of a square face, so i kind of wanted that to soften up with a little bit of roundness in and around the side of her eyes, and now she can just take this and and move This around to whatever direction she wants. She didn't want to feel so short. She just pulled that forward and have that through there. You look great awesome. I feel great. I like this already better than the last i do too. I do too it looks more wearable. It'S very functional, yes, yes, functional is the word