How To Create A Modern Shag Haircut

Hi, my friends samvia here, welcome to the artist studio. I want to thank you for your time and, most of all, your desire to learn today. What i want to share with you is a real cool way to cut a modern shag and here's a great pattern that works right, especially want you to pay attention in terms of how i'm going to graduate or how i'm going to layer the hair. So we've gone through we've pre-sectioned i've sectioned off a horseshoe shape on top working with the top and the crown area by simply using the comb notice, i'm working with a white comb on dark hair for the transition by using the comb. I can determine where that hair head shape transitions from going vertical to horizontal. Then i've also worked that through the back area in terms of the areas that i've divided once i have the horseshoe we went through and we divided the front area or the front right side and the front left side. Then we went through and created the back area by simply finding that nape area in this particular case at the middle or just like at the top of the ear horizontal curved line that gives us the back area and dividing that in half gives us the right Back and the left back now we're going to start the haircut we're going to begin in the nape. Yet we're going to begin a little bit differently rather than starting at the bottom and taking our sections horizontally, bringing them down and starting to create the perimeter length. We'Re going to reverse that thinking and we're going to think inside versus outside, so we're actually going to go through and layer the nape area, first we're going to layer this to the shape of the head. So allow me to show you from a profile view in terms of how this is going to look and how it works. When we go through and we layer that so i'm going to take a center slice, then what i'm going to do is i'm going to come through and take a probably about three sections out of this back area. One two: three: three: equal sections: here's my first horizontal slice. Now i'm going to take this slice and i'm going to elevate this vertically so that the top of my hand is at the top of that horseshoe section and somewhere approximate there once it's there, i'm going to keep my position on my hand to the shape of The head, the entire back nape area, the shape of the head, the elevation is going to be vertical notice. My hand is up close to the head matter of fact: here's what i'm going to suggest we do. Let'S take this section, move it up and out of the way so that we're going to have control of where we're elevating this to so here's the first section now watch i'm going to be able to get this up against the head. Take a look at how my top of my finger in this particular case. That'S how i'm going to establish the length that you're going to see inside it's going to be longer on the outside. Let'S take a look at it, so we elevate keeping that hand flat when it's up at the top. That'S when we're going to cut and we're going to cut by scanning that section so notice how we take the guiding blade and we'll place that on our ring finger and possibly on your middle finger and then just come scan it slightly with the shear tilted. At a diagonal working your way across gives you more of an etched edge. That'S our first section now. Here'S where the thinking requires a little bit more of a different mindset and for your blenders. I think you're going to appreciate this basically because you can create a texture but you're going to do it in a very disciplined sort of way. Yet each horizontal section we take will be detached from the previous section. Here'S my first section: let's go to section number. Two: here's my second section working with the fine teeth of the comb immediately coming underneath positioning my hand to the shape of that head now, as we slide up. Let'S look for where that guide is using the spine of the comb. Look how i'm showing you where that guide is now watch that guide, that guy is going to slide into my hand. Normally, that's where i would cut, but today i'm going to suggest what we do is we go and slide that guide inside of your finger angle and now come in and cut so we're actually leaving this section about an eighth of an inch longer. If you will here's the analogy in the old days, a one length, bob i'd cut my first section to the skin. My second section would be slightly longer third section slightly longer fourth section, so it was short underneath slight one just slightly longer slightly longer and the reason they were teaching me that they said sam, that's an overcut. It'S going to help that bob to bevel. It'S going to give it more pliability, take that and turn it upside down so now the top is short. The next section gets slightly longer. Next section is slightly longer, so it's the same bob's concept in terms of how we created that graduation soft graduation at the perimeter, we're now reversing it and just reversing that graduation. So here we go once again fine teeth of the comb and now watch how i can see what i previously cut. There'S that first section there's that second section now that second section is going to go inside of my finger angle and now i'm going to come through and scan. So if you take a look at this, each section was slightly longer than the last section, but also because of the position on hand you're going to see this fall back short to long, but what i love about this is just the layered effect. Remember perimeter edge. We have not touched at all: let's continue to the left side of the nape area. Now, remember i'm getting about three sections inside of this nape area. So, let's come through. Take a slice, take a small piece of what you just cut on this side. Okay, so i'm taking just that top surface, that's so important! If you take more than that you're going to see variations of length, we just loosen your mindset, trust the guide that you pick up and come through and scan across that that's the first horizontal section, hot tip, leave the section in your hand, come through. Take the second section now comb underneath you're, going to have much more control of seeing your guide and the entire left nape area. Now we come through notice how i position my comb and my finger together. I slide together and you can see it right away where you cut that last section. Now, i'm going to come through past that last section slide that inside of my finger position and coming through and cutting the second section. Now we go third section. This is my third coming through underneath hand slide elevate vertically 90 degrees position. Finger position is to the shape of the head. The cutting line is a horizontal line. Working left to right right to left now, release now look at how we've been able to create an oval shape towards the back and how we're getting just a soft kind of razor like very shattered edge of graduation. Now, it's time to move into step, two step. Two, a there's, two steps: a and b a is we're going to create our guide. That goes all the way around, so we're going to create more or less a channel or a rim. If you will as a guide so we're going to drop the side area, we're going to drop our back area and we're going to drop the same back area and side area on the right side, remember we want to create a guide that wraps its way around The side and the back areas so we're going to start in the front area before we do that. Let'S isolate underneath so take an elastic or some of your sectioning clips, go up high and slide that in why? Because this area is going to be detached from the underneath beneath nape area, this back area once again we're going to think inside out, let's create the guide first and notice. Once again, this is a concept of dry cutting. Yes, i'm starting out wet but watch how i'll let the moisture just kind of go away and start working with it more. Naturally, why am i doing this instead of really going into a dry? I want to be able to read the natural movement in the hair as i'm cutting and allow that natural natural movement to happen when we put water, we hit it with water. It just kind of springs it up and you start to see it, so it's just a great way to dry cut, rather than cutting from totally dry. Just introducing to you another way of approaching dry cutting side area, we're going to create a guide. Once again, i'm going to get probably about three sections out of that. I could probably get four, so you determine how wide how thick these sections are going to be. I'M going to take my first section now: let's determine the length today this length, i'm going to determine that i want it this tall from the bottom of my fine tooth of the comb to the middle of the comb. That'S going to be my length, so i'm going to determine it by using my comb today that time you can take this as long as you want or as short as you want, but here's why i'm doing this watch when i release this, how this section is Going to hit right at that nose or that eye between that eye and that lips just create that angle in the front i'm going to suggest, keep it in your hand. Take your second section oops remember: we want to create a guide all the way around. So once you create this guide, leave that just give it a little bit of a twist. You know you're going to create pick that up for your next section. Okay: let's go to the second section, which is this back area on the right side, but rather than creating from point a to b, trying to just carve that curved line in let's divide this in half to the corner back, so i'm looking for that right corner Back and that right center, here's my right corner back first section: i'm gon na get about four sections out of this. So here's my first section one but we're creating that guide working around all the way around here's. The guide now look i just lifted just as just skim very lightly, a piece of that top hair elevate straight up vertically. There'S my guide and scan into that. So now i have a guide for that particular panel and then, if you want to stay in control, come back in take your sectioning clip and just clip that section clip pointed up got my guides established in that one. Now, let's come through now i'm to the right of center in that back area, and here i'm going to take another slice, i'm going to get four out of that see i'll use my fingers to determine that width. Take a slice we're going to come through and just take and elevate, just a small piece of that, elevating up. There'S the guide and cut to it. I'M going to continue to work this concept, creating that rim or that channel of a guide through the top area of each section. All right, we've completed our guide on the last side on the left. Now we're going to come back all the way to the right. Remember we're going to take sections horizontal sections in this particular case, i'm going to put four sections. My first section was the guide. Here comes the second now watch as i come through, and i elevate i'm looking for that guide now. Remember, i'm not working with a lot of moisture. There'S that guide now a great way to get a really soft edge slide. That guide inside once again reversing the graduation, like an old bob of leaving each section slightly longer, here's my third section okay coming through and let's look for them all right. So here comes the first there's the second. Now i'm going to slide that inside - and here is my third once again continue with that shear diagonal, so that you can scan across that section. My last section notice how i'll go comb hand connecting the comb and the index finger together, glue them together and let them slide up together, maintains a nice strong line, i'm beginning to see. There'S my last section. I cut comb out slide inside and now scan. So once again, reverse graduation: each section is just slightly longer than the previous section just a great way to create a soft serrated texture texture within each horizontal section. Let'S go to our next bevel. Okay, we have our guide working for us already once again figure out how many sections you're going to slice inside of that we're going to actually work four sections again here comes my second section. The guide was the first elevating up. There'S the guide guide goes inside and scan. Now you don't have to scan. You could cut this blunt and still get a nice soft edge to it. Maybe if the hair is finer, i might want a little bit more of a stronger edge to it. So i might cut it blunt instead of scanning here's, my fourth section within this bevel elevating up notice, everything is elevated straight up. That'S that whole shag concept there's the guide. I just slid past it. You can almost feel it inside of your finger as you're working just take that underneath out and look at the how i've not gone into my perimeter edge. You may like the the texture you have on that edge or you may want to adjust it. That comes towards that end. On that creative approach. Okay, let's go to the right of center; okay, so we've cut that here center now we're to the right of it. Okay, so we're going to our second bevel in the back here. This is the second section, i'm placing four within each one there it is there. Take a look now watch me just slowly slide that inside as soon as i feel that inside scannotice, how i keep that section in my hand, discovered it helps me to control it. A little bit more in terms of the consistency, moving sliding past one length and the next length, so i just continue to hold that section. Let'S take up our last fourth section within this bevel there we go and sliding that in okay, let's go to the left of center now and notice how i'm letting that hair dry as i go, that natural movement is starting to work for me second section guide, So it's all about continuing to think and do in a different way yet with more control, more discipline, third section - and you can really start to see them - use the spine of the comb to find out where you're at slide to that slide. That in and now i'm going to cut so if you were to say sam, how long is each side about an eighth of an inch try not to make it no more longer than a quarter of an inch? Now it becomes two separated there's that edge notice. The position of my hand is to the shape of the head, so i'm getting this back nice and rounded, which is why we divided it in all those different bevels. Here'S my last one here, let's make sure we keep that underneath isolated, and this will be the last one in the back before we move to that left side area. Let'S give you a view of that, taking horizontal section looking for that guide again there. It is now watch me slide that inside so i don't see it anymore. The moment, i don't see it anymore, scan third section. We cut four sections within each bevel within each area within each vertical panel and the last section stay within that bevel and stay in control. Try not to pick up any of the hair, the bevel to the left, to the right of the area that i'm cutting. My last section and watch when i just start to put a little bit of moisture into that and we're going to start to see that texture really start to pop in our last side area we're gon na get four inside of that one. Here'S number two here comes my guide on the guide guide went inside scan, i'm gon na continue to work down, continuing the same elevation, same position and same fingering all right, so we've completed all of our underneath and you can just start to see the just the Layering effect that we're starting to get out of that, and just if i start to work with my hands, you can start to see once i start adding product now, that's just going to come in naturally and start to give me a nice kind of organic feel To the texture, all right, it's time to move into the top area, the top area is step three step. One was our nape step, two a was our guide and then step three step. Two b was the inside of each panel or bevel that we had now step three we're gon na work, the top area, so, let's be sure to isolate what we've already cut. As we stated, this is going to be disconnected from the top area. So let's come in and slide okay now you could put this in a ponytail, but remember it's heavily layered you're going to have some hair coming up just isolate that top surface area. Now, let's go into the top area once again, what i want to create on the top area is not so much a crop top because not everybody wants to wear that, but what i want is a sense of volume, but i want a lot if you're, taking A look at these lobs, the lobs on top. They have a lot of link to them, but then there's separation within that length. So here's an idea that i want to share with you: here's what we're going to do we're going to go in and we're going to cut horizontally across the top of the horseshoe. But what we're going to do is we're going to cut short to long and then we'll reverse it short to long. So i'm going to stand in the back. The first horizontal slice i'm going to take is i'm going to use this side area as my guide and i'm going to cut short to long, then i'm going to come through. That'S my first horizontal section, the next horizontal section i'll take my next horizontal section. Using this as a guide, i'm going to cut short to long the opposite way, so we're going to continue to work each horizontal line short to long using the rim that we created as a guide. So it's going to create a sense of balance, but because one section goes short to long next, one watch the sense of texture that i'm going to be able to create in that top area. So, let's start in the back area in that crown. Once again, i'm work with just a small spritz of water. All of this is going to be detached, we're working in the top and crown area now and watch how i'm going to work with the streamline i'm going to work with a sheer. You could use a razor. You could use slide cut this if you want, but we're going to work it with a sheer and you're going to see how i'm going to talk my way from short to long in this top area. Why? Because i want a little bit more kind of a shattered texture that doesn't have so much of a blend. It'S got a little bit more chunkiness if you will to it, so we're going to go short to long. Here'S my first section so now, i'm going to give you a front view of this and you'll see how i'm going to control each section that i'm working with. So let's take this hair. Let'S isolate this, so you have a nice view of that top and how we're working with that give you a three-quarter view of this. Okay, here's my first section, i'm going to work short to long. So now i'm going to come in we're going to take and take just that top surface. This is my guide right there. Now, i'm going to go from short to long now, how steep you make this angle, that's going to be your creative choice, i'm going to go there now watch what i'm going to do this season to create something a little bit more heavy and chunky, i'm going To go underneath my finger angle and i'm just going to work from short to long and notice how i'm not going in and i'm not closing this year close completely. I'M just talk. Talk talk so i'm just going to bite, bite, bite, bite, bite, talk, talk, talk, talk, bite, bite, bite, working short to long. Take this section place it down open up one of these clips and place it inside now. Let'S move to the opposite side notice. How i was standing here, i need to stay in the bat stay there on that side, because i'm right-handed, so i want to go now short to long. I want to go short along the opposite way. So where's, the best way for me to stand is going to be in the front now working short too long. So i take my next horizontal section: okay notice, how i'll comb the hair, the grain of the hair, this direction so enables me to slice. Now how thick are my sections, the bulkier, the check, the texture? You want on the edge the thicker, the sections, the softer the texture, the smaller the sections in terms of the thickness of the suction okay, i'm right-handed. So look where i'm going to stand so now, i'm taking. I went short too long here, standing in the back standing in the front now taking a section there's my guide. Okay, let's angle, don't be so concerned about the angle, visualize the angle and now walk to it. This is not so much about it being at really even straight line. Think about this has a natural texture to it. We'Re gon na pop it. Okay. Now i have length thrown over here and length thrown over on both sides, so you just start to see short to long short to long really establishes a beautiful texture, i'm going to continue to work this concept working from one side to the opposite side, and please Note how i turn the chair each time, so i'm standing in the front one direction and standing in the back another direction. You can see the elevation from the profile view, i'm elevating right from where that section is at okay. Loosen up the mindset in terms of one side is short. One side is longer loosen that up. Okay turn. Now i'm standing in the back, here's a section. I just cut, i encourage you to clip it back and away so you're, not picking up any of that hair. The most important thing is, when you do these things and you're: reversing your graduation and staying in control next section, there's my short piece and notice how i'll get close to that angle wherever it happens, to be and then throw this hair over your hand. So you can get to it now slide your sheer in and now walk and talk short too long. It'S really important that you loosen up your mindset in this. I know that if you're a blender, this is strong for you to really it's tough to comprehend. In terms of how we're working this notice, where i was look, i turn, but it's all about really thinking saying and doing differently. Okay, now we're going to go through notice, how i throw that, let's throw it to the front, so you can actually see where i'm at give you a better view, so that hair is out of the way and notice how i just keep trying to keep the Same pace moving, so it kind of gives me a good balance of length, but once again, not overly concerned with that and you'll see how i'm going to come in and we're going to pop a fringe. But i want you to continue the same motion all the way into this, and then you'll see how we're going to pop the fringe. Okay, my last section still trusting that guide on the side area, so notice how i lift that guide in the side area and now working short, too long. Okay. Now we could, at this point not do a fringe, but i want to introduce you to cool french. That'S really kind of very kind of floaty like, but let's take a look at where we're at right now in this shape, remember we have not touched that perimeter at all, so we haven't touched it. What i love about this is look at the variation look at the lengths that we have, but just look at the silhouette of the shape, how it sits more straight up and down and remember we're putting a fringe in this. So now you could come in. You could say: well, let's go side which side do you part on? Do you want a blunt heavy fringe? Now the creativity happens in that fringe area. Let'S just start to just start to pop it in you can just start to see the texture in terms of what we're creating, but what i love about. This is how it's so moldable in terms especially on that top area. Now, let's take a look at the back and just take a look at the graduation of what we created once again, i haven't touched that perimeter: let's wait and let that dry a little bit before we go in after it. Now, let's go into the fringe. Okay, i'm not going to go in this season and take that fringe all the way back as far back as i used to, in other words, not going to go back, let's go from a middle part, so you can really see so we're not going to go Back in terms of way back into that top area here i want to move this slightly forward, so i get a little bit of hair that overlaps the corner of the fringe, and i also want this to have kind of floaty kind of idea to it. So what we're going to do is we're going to come through where you start to see the hairline start to change. I just want you to take from that point there where it starts to change direction. All we're going to do is draw a line straight up to that to that middle part, so this season, that's how much, how i'm determining how much hair to actually put into this part. So it's not so much of a diagonal back or triangles has been the triangle. It'S not so sharp! It'S been more a little bit more softer and rounded this season. So, let's take this hair place this hair back and away now we're at a point in the haircut where i want you to start to really just start to really caress the hair and let it start to dry on its own or what i'm going to do Is use a diffuser today, okay, so i'm just continuing that line that works its way right across. So i'm looking to see where i'm at, and i continue that line right to where that reset receding area starts to happen. Now i'm going to come through and clip this side back now. I want to get three sections out of this and i'm going to work the same way that i've been working with, but rather than starting on the inside we're going to start at the perimeter. This time now watch the idea here, so we start at that perimeter edge. I want to get three sections out of this here's my first section. Okay, we're going to use the bridge of the nose as our guide. Approximately the bridge of the nose is going to be the guide, so i'm going to come in about right there, but i'm going to elevate. Let'S give you a profile view of this okay and look at my degree of elevation. So right there about is where i'm going to go right there and now i'm elevating straight out from that head. Okay! So now i'm going to go through and i'm just going to scan that i want a little bit more weight in this fringe this season. So that's why i'm starting the front now, my second section and let's continue to work the way, the same way that we have been working inside, which is, i want to go in and extend the length within each horizontal section. So here's my second section watch how i'll continue to elevate straight out from where that head is on that section, but i'm going to slide past that first guide. So i'm looking at guide, it's not on the top! It'S underneath now! So you got to fold and look for it once i see it, you'll feel it go inside now you scan same concept yet notice this time, how i'm working from the perimeter edge guide longer longer we had a section inside and we worked inside next. Section came to it longer next section longer, so you see i'm reversing it now and thinking about that bob where they had me leave one section longer than another: let's take our next and last section dry cutting stay in control. I know it's not easy, especially when you're going through and you're trying to really work with discipline like this in terms of dry cut. You mostly know dry cut, is working with it and cutting to the wave notice, i'm working a lot more discipline and i'm allowing the concept of this reverse graduation create the texture for me. So i'm choosing to be a little bit more technical with my dry cutting. Rather than visual, okay now look how this fringe has got some weight to it yet because of the degree of elevation, it still has a degree of softness to it so now the lastly, the last thing we're going to do is just start to reassess the length In terms of where we're at and how we want to see that length, so you can just start to see the fringe and how i'm getting the movement that i want out of that. But now it's time to come in and apply some product once i start to diffuse this after applying product. I can come back in and reassess right now. I want to take a look at this perimeter length and, let's just readjust the length and just give us a little bit more kind of a little bit more weight inside of that. So let's come down notice. How we haven't done anything to that length, but we've got a nice softness. Now, don't cut this so blunt and so heavy that you're going to lose that softness. So i'm just going to come through just scan. I want to just place a little bit of an edge into that, rather being so loose and so free over here and notice. I'M doing this last rather than doing this first establishing the length discovered if i establish that length. First, i'm getting way too much weight at that perimeter: okay notice, the shape and the texture and how we got very look at the length that you see inside of that, but then, at the same time, you're seeing some shortness inside of that and you're. Seeing a lot of these shapes right now, you know - maybe you might see this in a lob in terms of this, but now let's go through and let's start to just enhance that natural texture. So i'm just going to spritz with some water first just to pop it in okay, then i'm going to come back in i'm going to hit it with some air set. I want just a soft touch of air set, i'm placing the bottle this way, so i'm using the height of the bottle to determine my distance and i'm trying to stay within consistent, even though, as i move around and what i've discovered is. This helps me not to over saturate, especially when i want to diffuse and then you're probably wondering why iron shape 11 sam. I thought it's meant more for for heat in terms of when we're working with heat. Well, i'm going to be working with heat, but it's going to be the diffuser. So what i want to do is i want to go in and use something that has a little bit more medium. A little bit more stronger hold so has a medium control with 11, because i'm choosing to diffuse it and notice, i'm just working with my hands next thing i want to introduce you to is watch my hands as i'm coming in caressing the hair notice, how i'm Starting to manipulate my fingers and just push in some movement into that, so it's just a matter of lacing, so you just want to start to just think about lacing the hair in terms of how you're working with it and you'll, see me lace and do this As i'm actually drawing and look at the pattern you're creating by doing this, okay, you can start to see how that hair is intertwining in between that. So if i release that i'm getting that type of pattern to it so think about using your hands as a tool when you're drawing it and starting to crest the hair a little bit more differently as you're drawing it. Okay continue to work, my iron shape. 11.. All right now we're going to come through and we're going to take some outshine 0-1 in this particular case and we're going to use that and emulsify like a hand lotion now. Once again, i don't get too carried away with it, because it's not really wet all. I want to do is just come in and just start to crest. Okay, look at the fingers caress, so i'm just really putting in and putting my shape into. It could probably take that shorter. Let'S reassess that afterwards, okay, a little bit more oil shine, i like using outshine when i diffuse it just adds a little bit more kind of definition to it and once again, starting to crest. Now, when you caress, i suggest you bring the hand in vertical and just really start to move that hair all right now, let's come through and then just work with a diffuser. I could allow this to dry, naturally, but i want to introduce you something with working with a diffuser, a lost tool that we're now going to start picking up a little bit more, but i'm going to use my hands now. One of the things i was taught when working with the diffusers. I always heard this: let the diffuser do the work. Let the diffuser do the work. What i'm going to do is i'm going to come in and take my hand and very gently just start to think about that s, pattern that i want to create and i'm just going to caress the hair and then look notice how i open up my hands. That'S going to allow the hair flow to move through so see how my hands are open, the space that i have, but look at the shape that i'm creating out of that one section there now coming in and diffusing. So i have my airflow on low and my heat is on medium. I recommend you don't put it on high, because the fact that you're coming in and you're actually diffusing this be gentle with the hair once your hand is placed in let the airflow do the work for you all right. So this is the shape as you we've diffused it and you can see how it has really natural organic, really playing off of the natural texture all right. So, let's recap the haircut. We divided this into three separate areas: the top and the crown area. The sides in the back area and the nape area, the nape area working at the top of nape area, is where we started our haircut. We elevated vertically our finger position was to the shape of the head, and our finger angle was horizontal. We scanned into that. First section the next section: here's where the concept of reverse graduation happens. That second section was about an eighth of an inch longer each section, eighth of an inch longer, so it gave you more of a serrated edge with an e within each horizontal section. So we started nape area, we went to the side, the back and the side area on both sides dropping all of that down. We took a slice in the side area, the back area on the right on the left and the left side area. We elevate it vertically once again stain with the shape of the head. We cut our guideline underneath the top and crown area all the way around, starting back in the side area. Elevating each horizontal section, we took four horizontal sections. Second section: we elevated to the guide. Yet we slid an eighth of an inch past. The guide did that, with every section getting progressively longer as we elevated up, we continued that on each area, so once again in that center back to ensure that we create a round shape within the back, we took that right back area and divided it in half. So we got the right corner back and the right center back and we did the same thing on the left that ensured that we position our hands when we cut to the shape of the head, went through the top area, starting the back horizontal sections, be sure To isolate the underneath horizontal sections right handed working from short to long turning, the chair puts us in position to work from short to long again, turn short to long. So we went through and basically achieved an angle in each section where first section short to long next, section short to long next, section short to long next, section short to long. Reversing that, as we work towards the front, worked all the way towards the front and then came back in, took a small section of fringe this season. So we created a little bit more weight in that fringe area and not opening it up so wide just coming through and just narrowing that more of a soft curved triangle. If you will, starting at the perimeter using the bridge of the nose just past the bridge of the nose as our guide, elevating straight out from the head second section straight out from the head slightly longer, eighth of an inch and third section slightly longer that gave Us that soft texture again yet with a little bit more weight. What i want you to notice in the silhouette is how it sits more straight up and down creating that shag type of environment shags, don't sit where they're wide. This way they sit very straight up and down and more narrow. Now you can adjust this some of the lengths on the sides that you see here from short to long short to long. You might say: i'm not liking these pieces that overlap. Now it's all about your personal taste in terms of going in and tweaking the haircut. My suggestion, then, would be to come in and freehand any pieces that you see that don't fit or visually don't fit to your taste. Next, you can also come in and do anything that you want to desire to that fringe area. Take it further back. If you on really cut a heavy fringe cut, a pc fringe could have chewed into a fringe or shag fringe. That'S going to be your creative choice. What did we want you to get out of this lesson? The idea of reverse graduation each section, an eighth of an inch longer try that concept with anything you're, layering and you're, going to love the visual end result, which gives you a very soft edge once again, thanks for watching the artist studio, and we appreciate your desire To learn talk to you soon, you