Permanent Vs. Demi-Permanent Hair Color | How To Formulate Color | Kenra Color

How do we know when to use permanent color versus demi-permanent color? There are many different uses for each. So, let's take a look at those differences as well as their ideal suggested. Use. Permanent hair color is used for lift and deposit, as well as gray coverage.. A small amount of ammonia is used in order to open up the cuticle layer of the hair so that the dye molecule can go inside and live in. The cortex. Gray coverage. Vibrant redheads, lighter and richer brunettes, as well as sunny blondes, are all aided by the use of permanent hair color. Standard mixing for permanent color is a one-to-one ratio with a process time of 30 minutes.. If you're looking to cover resistant gray, the process time will be 40 minutes.. We have four developers in the permanent color category to give you the proper amount of lift and deposit for your clients.. We have 10 volume, 20 volume, 30 volume and 40 volume. 10 volume is used when we want to deposit or go darker on the hair.. 20 volume is typically used for gray coverage and it provides both lift and deposit as well as up to one level of lift for a standalone. Lifting service. 30 volume can give us anywhere between 2 to 3 levels of lift and 40 volume can provide 3 to 4 levels of lift.. You may be asking: when do I use the 30 or the 40 depending on the level.? Well, that depends on the client's, texture and density.. Someone with fine hair may be able to achieve 3 levels of lift with 30 volume, but for someone with a coarse texture or high density, you may need to bump up that developer to 40 volume. In order to get the lift, desired. Gray coverage is usually achieved using 20 volume developer, especially if the client is 80 % or more gray. If three or more levels of lift are needed, along with gray coverage, 30 volume and 40 volume can technically also be used.. The N Series is necessary for great coverage, so you can use our Natural Series, our Natural Ash Series, the Natural Brown Series or the Natural Ultra Ash Series for standalone coverage or mixed with any of other shades in the portfolio based off of that client's percentage of Gray. For clients, with 25 % gray, we recommend incorporating 25 % of any of the N Series into your formulation and 75 % of the desired end result. For clients between 25 and 50 percent. We recommend mixing 50 % of the N Series and 50 % of your desired end result.. If the client has over 50 % gray, we actually recommend mixing 75 % of the N Series, with 25 % of your desired end. Result. Underlying pigment is natural pigment found in all hair and is visually exposed anytime we are lifting two or more levels.. Knowing the underlying pigment at each level allows us to either use it to our advantage to accentuate warm tones or to cancel them out when necessary.. Our demi-permanent color is ammonia-free and for deposit only color services., The grow-out is softer subtle, with little to no line of demarcation, and you can use the demi-permanent not only to refresh the ends but also achieve gray. Blending. Standard mixing is at a 1 to 2 ratio, with our 9 volume activator on damp or dry hair for up to 25 minutes. For gray blending. We actually drop the ratio down to a 1 to 1 still processing for up to 25 minutes.. Our demi-permanent color can be used in many different ways.. Let'S take a look at a few of them.. First, we have color enhancing.. This is when we apply demi-permanent color from scalp to ends on damp or dry hair anytime, we're looking to deposit tone.. If there's no need for lift or gray coverage use demi-permanent for this service. Color equalizing, I love utilizing a color equalizing service because I may need permanent color for lift and or gray coverage at the roots. But I also love refreshing my mids and ends with demi-permanent. Toning. I love toning, my clients with demi-permanent color, because there's no need for additional lift. I can deposit the tone neutralize what I need to or accentuate the warmth, I'm looking for all in one step using demi-permanent color., Typically with toning. I don't need the full process time and usually I can get it with about 10 to 15 minutes on damp hair. At the bowl. Gray blending, As we discussed earlier, all you need to do in order to get a gray blend. Is drop your ratio from a 1 to 2 down to a 1 to 1 and let it process for the full 25 for a superior gray, blend., Clear gloss, Clear gloss is a versatile tool in the Kenra Color portfolio that can be used in many different ways.. It can be used standalone to provide shine on hair, that is dull. It can also be mixed in with any of our other shades to dilute the formula or extend process times. Within our demi-permanent portfolio. We have some amazing options to tone in five minutes or less right at the bowl.. These are our Rapid Toners.. Now the Rapid Toners are mixed, just like every other demi- permanent color in the portfolio at a 1 to 2 ratio with our 9 volume activator. But the process time again is 5 minutes or less.. We currently offer a silver violet, a violet pearl, a beige and a green blue rapid toner.. Our silver violet Rapid toner has an intense blue violet base and is recommended for levels 8 through 10 pre-lightened hair., Our violet pearl Rapid Toner is a translucent violet base also recommended for levels 8 through 10 on pre-lightened hair. Beige. Rapid Toner has a violet base and is recommended for levels 9 and 10 on pre- lightened hair, and our green blue. Rapid toner is an intense saturation of both green and blue to neutralize warmth at levels 4 through 6. Kenra Color makes formulating simple with our 5 easy steps to color formulation. Step 1 Determine the client's natural level by utilizing either the level finder or the N Series. Swatch page in your Kenra Color swatch book. You'll also want to determine texture and density for proper formulation. Step 2 Determine desired level and tone utilizing your kenra color swatch book. This information should be gathered through a thorough consultation with your client. Step. 3 Determine volume of developer thanks to steps one and two. We understand what our clients, natural level is as well as what their desired level is. So this tells us how many levels of lift or deposit is needed, which will in turn, let us know which volume of developer to choose. Step 4 Determine percentage of gray.. Now that we have steps one through three out of the way it may seem like. We have a formula already in our minds., However, steps four and five can come in and completely change the formula, determine your clients, percentage of gray to make sure that you are incorporating the correct amounts of N, along with the desired end, result to also get the Coverage that you're looking for. Step 5 Determine underlying pigment.. Remember any time we are lifting two or more levels underlying pigment can be exposed so make sure to take this into consideration when formulating to either enhance it or neutralize. It. We've covered many different uses for permanent and demi-permanent color, and now you have all the information necessary to make the best decision behind the chair. To learn more, be sure to subscribe to our YouTube channel and check out the other videos in the Kenra Color 101 Series