Hair Coloring Tutorial: Foils & All Over Color

Hi guys so today we're going to be giving a color on my beautiful mother. This is the after pretty much. We did a partial foil and a flat color paint between, and I kind of go through the steps in the mixing with you guys, but I just want to show you how you can do it if you are looking to do a color on someone. You know whether you're trained or not. I guess that's your choice. This just tips that I use and my technique is to how I do it on her at least so yeah. I hope you learned something and enjoy the video. So today I'm going to be using color brilliance. I just got this from Sally Beauty Supply, there's a couple other ones that I like to use. But today this is I'm going to be using. It is a cream color and it is permanent. It'S good for great coverage, alright, so today I'm going to be using six WR six point, three five and said: seven WR, seven point three: five: these are both mochas they're classified. This is a dark golden mahogany blonde and a medium golden mahogany blonde. I just want to get a level right between these, because the seven I like the tone of that shows the warmth, but I want to add a little bit of depth. So as far as the longevity of it, it doesn't fade as quickly. So I'm just going to mix two ounces of this, so one ounce of this one and went on to this one. You before you add your developer, you want to mix a color together, first, at least, if you're, using more than one color, just because it's going to be easier to distribute this and then as a developer as opposed to adding it and then try to make sure That all your colors can mix good. So with my mom's here um we are deepening it. Well, if you're going the same level or or lower, you can just use a 10 volume developer, so the 10 volume isn't going to lift. So it's only going to deposit or deepen so since we're pretty much just refreshing the color and we're not lifting it as far as all-over color goes, I'm just going to use 10 volumes and this is equal parts. So we have 2 ounces here. So I'm going to use 2 ounces of this you for her highlights. Today, I'm going to be using salon care, prison lights and I'm using the blue. One has opposed to the violet because she already has a lot of warmth in her hair and blue is complementary to orange on the color scale. So it's going to cut out any orange tones. We want to keep the red. That'S why I'm not using an ash or a violet one, because I want to cut up orange so musically now for this, because she's sitting at a level between six and seven - and I want to get her blonde highlights, but she has previously lighting her hair. So I don't want to go too crazy, so I'm just going to use the dirty volume developer today, it's okay, if it seems a little thin because as it oxidizes it's going to thicken up some more. So I always kind of start with a thinner consistency. What I'm going to do is the partial foil. So it's going to be starting from about her ears, so I'm going to get all this all the top and the back. So just pretty much the bottom of me, the only thing that's not colored, but since she's more a hair frequently, then it really doesn't make that big of a difference, because the layers up here are going to spring the highlights down and give it the effect that It'S pretty much a full float and then after I do the foils I'm going to do the all-over color, which we call paint between and that's just where I go and apply the color everywhere. The foils are not so that at the end, the result is a full head. Color and everything was touched up and then the foils in there for highlights, and that way I don't have to do a double process or two-step color. I can just get it all done in one application, so what I'm going to do is a moon to section or hair, I'm going to make a mohawk section based on where our part is, since her part, isn't directly in the middle. It'S a little off to the right, I'm going to go about an inch inch and a half on each side and section that off go from this point or I ended this section down to her ear pretty much. This is what you should have right now. So just this is down I'm going to start my files right here go up and then afterwards this is all going to be colored with our color for all her foils, I'm going to do a weave as opposed to a slice, so a slice would be taking It like this and just using the whole slice, a weave is taking it and then weaving out sections so that some pieces are in and some pieces fall out. The only difference that this is going to make is, when you slice it's going to be a lot more dramatic and chunky, whereas this is going to be a little more blended and refined, I'm not going to do a super small leave. What I'm going to do is kind of bigger chunks, because I want it to be. I want there to be a lot of contrast and dimension. I don't want everything to be super uniform. I want the foils to kind of be more blended in some places and a little more PC and others, because that's just kind of like the style we go far. So I'm going to ever tilt your head down and make sure when you are slicing a section up or picking up a section to boil that it's not really thick. Because if you take a section too thick like this, then what you're doing is, when you put the foil down - and you go like this all the hair in between here and underneath - is not going to get hit. So, at the end, when you wash it up you're going to have a big gap or you're going to have spotting or we call like zebra stripes and just it's really unflattering, so the closer you can get or the smaller sections you can get and they're closer. You can get to their scalp, the more natural the foils are going to come across and you're not going to have any lines of demarcation anywhere. So I took a small section and I'm just going to take my foil, a comb and leave out some pieces and then I'm going to take soil. What I do is take my comb, and I put it right at the bottom here like this and put that right, underneath your hair and pull the hair down so now. This is all the way up to her scalp as a kit. I'M going to take my blonde Lightner and I'm going to start about a half an inch away from the top oil just because if it's a lot of product it slides up, I don't want it to get all over and then get bleeding. So then, I'm going to hold them at the top here and I'm just going to start working the color up closer and closer to the scalp and I kind of like to take and turn sideways and just kind of fan. The color on there, and especially with this weaving technique, you're not really gon na - have to worry too much about any bleeding or any strong lines of demarcation. Just because there's going to be other hair, that's in there that's breaking it up. So this is a really good wave. If you have fine hair too, like my mom does, because when you have fine thin hair, sometimes foils can look very chunky and dramatic, and this is just a good way to make sure that that doesn't happen. So what I like to do now is I fold it in half. But after that I go back and I take my comb and I stick it in that little section that little extra Timmy way up there and I kind of push up a little bit so that I'm as high up to the scalp as I can. And then I fold that over and over all right, so then I'm going to go up and I'm going to do about half inch sections so about a half an inch from my last one you so for this specific strand, you can see that we hit a Spot where there's already blonde, so I don't it's not necessary to put the blonde everywhere, because that's just going to cause damage, since this is already Galland. It'S already porous, if I put bleach over it and strip it more, it's just going to dry it out and probably cause some breakage. So what I did was I pretty much just hit three girls and if you want you can kind of like fan it down. A little bit you so now that I have all the foils in we're going to go and take the all-over dark brown color, and we're going to put that everywhere that the foils are not so. I like to hit her roots first, because that's where the gray is, and that is just the most stubborn hair it's the hardest to penetrate, and sometimes it's real, stubborn and resistant, so just getting a color on there. First is going to help with that, but also to kind of help like make my affections and then I just go you all right, so we just blow-dry her and we can really like flatter and or curl or anything we just put some hairspray in there, but You can see the highlights if you want to zoom in put your head down. As you can see, all these beautiful highlights on top here some other chunkier. Some are more blended and we put like a lot of peace and ones in the face screaming. Here you can see in the bangs no gray, okay, which is which is always good. You check out his reaction: yeah yeah