Blonde Hair Color Correction [How To Fix Spotty Bands With Babylights And Color]

What'S up and welcome back to my youtube channel today, i'm really excited because i'm going to be showing you my go-to highlighting technique for bb lights, as well as doing some color correction today. So my client has a little bit of orange banding going on so we're gon na be doing a little bit of that. Also lifting her really dark roots and i'm even gon na be doing some corrective toning, which i'm super excited about. But before we get started make sure you hit that subscribe button and turn on all notifications, so you don't miss a tutorial. Now, let's go ahead and get started. So this client right here drove over two hours to come, see me in north la and you can see she has level one regrowth, along with some orange banding, going on and lots of old highlights and lots of damage. So i wanted to make sure that i'm going to take care of her hair and do everything possible to ensure the health of it. So i'm actually prepping her with malibu crystal gel. So you just mix this up with two ounces of water and apply it to freshly shampooed hair. The reason why i decided to prep her with crystal gel is just to remove any surface mineral and color buildup that was left onto the hair. So, basically, anything that is discoloring the hair from minerals or even just environmental damage, and i just felt like this was a prime example of when to use it. So i'm actually using clarifying shampoo from kenra professional and after doing a really good cleanse on those mids and ends. I then rinse it and then apply onto down towel dried hair, the malibu crystal gel and then apply a processing cap, and then i just popped her under the dryer for 20 minutes once she's done processing. I then bring her back to my shampoo bowl. Give her a light, shampoo light condition and then 100 drier and proper for her color service. So what i'm going to be using is kenra professional blue powder lightener, one to two mixing ratio with 20 volume developer and then you'll see later on that i'm actually going to be using 30 volume later on. But i like to start off with 20 because we are going to be doing a full baby light and minor color correction in between. So it's imperative that i have the 20 volume to start with and then i'm also going to be using demi anua at a one to two mixing ratio with nine vol, and that is to correct the orange banding in between each of the foils. Now i also have a bowl of conditioner as a backup and just in case, if i need it in place of you, know, lightener or something like that, so i always like to have a little bit of conditioner just put aside. So here is my sectioning: you can see it's basically a triangular section right down the back and then i have my quadrants going on so total of five sections in the back and then i use the natural parting of the client's head right down. The back of the ears and then i also left out about two inches of a money piece, but she has lots of broken pieces going on. So we're not going to be doing too much in that front hairline. So i got my tray set up and i'm ready to go with my from our tools and i like to start right in the back. So this is my go-to highlighting hairline technique. I'M going to be doing two back to back baby lights on each side. Now i like to weave the hair with it starting brushed up and then bringing those pieces right on down and then using the head as a surface area to paint. This just makes it so much easier for me to get really close to the scalp, and this also helps me avoid bleeding and again it's just my go-to technique. I will say that if you do this for the first time, it does feel a little awkward just like anything new that you ever tried. But i promise that if you start highlighting like this, you are going to get addicted to it, because you're literally going to be able to pick up so many little pieces of hair, and it just comes out so beautiful and flawless, which you will see. At the end of this video, so let me show you one more time: i'm actually going to do another highlight by pulling the hair straight on up and then weaving right on down now these are two back to back baby lights on each side and what that Means is, there's no hair as a subsection in between so there's no hair fall out, and that's really really important, because usually these hairs are really baby fine and most of the time, if your client likes wearing their hair up, they want to see that pop of Blonde going on on the hairline, whether it's in the back or in the front, so i'm actually going to start speeding this up. But this entire video is literally showing you my go-to sectioning for really all of my highlights. But i'm showing you something pretty special here, which is a color correction, along with some baby lights. So after i get those two highlights on the right side, i'm then gon na apply the same two on the left side and then i'm gon na marry these sections right in the center. So each of these sections is really going to vary depending on your client's. Hairline type, this client has a pretty nice standard hairline going on, so she has a really great example to use for a video, but sometimes people have really funky hair lines and if that's the case sometimes you may need to add a third foil and that's okay. So just keep that in mind to customize it for each and every single one of your clients, it's okay, if you need to add more or maybe on the third foil you're starting to introduce a subsection. So that's, okay, too! So sometimes i do that. But for this client we just did a total of two on each side, with a complete of six back to back baby light foils for that back hairline, something i get often asked is: can you do this highlighting technique with some no highlights in the back section? So, just basically you want to do the hairline, and the answer is absolutely if your client has a typical accent highlight or partial highlight, and they like to wear their hair up. Adding just these six foils in the back is a great way to add value to your highlight service and not have to do the entire head all right. So this next section is really important. You can see i'm going in diagonally, and so this is essentially like a triangle, and i really stress the importance of starting off your highlight in the back this way, because you're adding that depth that's needed, and you can also see at this point her hair's starting To get a little long, so i'm starting to guess when i need to start picking out and doing that correcting going on, and i need to be really careful because she does have some breakage going on. So i'm making sure to just apply that lightener onto that new growth, but also bringing it down if necessary. So you can see on that particular foil. I did add some conditioner right onto the ends, so this is just to help get the hair to stick onto that ends of that foil, because i am going to start introducing that demi permanent in between those foils later. So it's imperative that i make sure i know exactly where that hair fallout is living so that way, i don't get that eight anyway onto the ends. So here's where i'm starting to pick out see what's necessary to leave out and each foil is so different. So this is another reason why starting off with 20 volume, especially if you're a slow foiler like me, you're, going to want to start off with 20 volume, because the end of the day, you can let it process if it's not ready, and you can always reapply So this is the fourth foil that i'm applying in this particular left back section. So that's not including those hairline highlights, but a lot of people ask me how many foils do i actually put into the hair so again everybody's going to be different, and it's all case by case, but this particular client has medium to fine hair and four foils Was just plenty so there is a little bit of subsection, but each of my sections are about a quarter of an inch wide since i am working in the interior and we do have a lot of correction going on my baby lights do start to turn into Regular highlights so each foil is going to be so different. I'M really looking for a really kind of uneven weave when i'm doing correcting, basically the more uneven your weaves are the more blend that you're going to get when you have a lot of banding going on. So that's essentially why each and every single highlight that you see is going to be slightly different from the last they're, not at all the same. If i wanted a really uniformed look, usually that's because i have a really even canvas that i'm working with, but this is definitely not it. You can see each and every foil is so different and that's because i do have that banding going on and it's really hard to see in the camera, because originally, when i filmed this, it was done in a lot darker lighting for some reason. So i had to brighten up this film so that way you could see. Hence the reason why her natural looks a lot lighter in this lighting than it did in the outside film on the beginning of this video, so just something to kind of keep in mind. Um, you can't really see 100 the banding, but just know that it's there um there's probably about two inches of orange, going on on the last time that she got her hair done. So now i'm working on the third section in the back and this is going to get a little redundant. So i'm really going to speed up this process, because i want to show you that top back section but just know that this entire back section is slightly diagonal, the entire time uneven, weaves and one-quarter inch sub-sections. And i am using all from our tools and foils. If you want to check out from our products and purchase them, the link is in the description of this tutorial. If you are still wondering about placement and direction of highlights and the effects they create be sure to check out my other hair tutorial called for foil placements and the effects to create and the link will be at the top of this video or also in the Description of this tutorial, alright, so now let's go ahead and move on to that top triangle section. So i'm going to slow down this video, so you can really see how i get this started, but here's a top view. You can see it's straight basically from ear to ear on that very top, and here is my top triangle section and i'm more comfortable working from the right side, which is why i'm starting on the right side and i'm going to be taking some really thin micro Slices now i decided to go in with these micro slices here at the top, because it was going to give me a little bit more control for the very severe banding. So here's where the camera lighting was much better than in the beginning of this film and you can really see those orange pieces kind of going on, which is why i really had to take my time and taking slices, makes it a little bit easier. Sometimes, when picking out these weaves, because i was really able to see exactly what was going on before so here, i'm putting conditioner right onto those ends and then now i'm going to take a foil and just rip it in half and i'm actually going to place That foil right onto those really fragile ends, i decided to go in with the slice technique also for this top section, because this is where she had the most breakage. So at this point the breakage was already helping in that really uneven, weave illusion kind of going on that i was trying to create on the underside um. Fortunately she didn't have a lot of damage underneath, but this is where she had a ton of breakage. So i just wanted the most control possible plus i am gon na - go in and correct with that eight anyway, so the slices were perfect, but keep in mind if you're doing correcting take really thin thin slices. So that way, it mimics a highlight or a baby light. Okay, so this whole point why? I'M so excited about this top section - and this is typically again, my go-to for any full highlight baby light service. That i do is because this top section is not just diagonal it's pivotal and what that means is i'm taking really baby pizza slices as my subsection meaning. The right side of this section is slightly wider at the base and it is more narrow towards the right side. So again, it's kind of hard to see in this film but you'll see exactly what i mean when i finish this section and do the very last foil you'll see that it completely pivots creating a fanned out type of effect with the foil, because i really take My time with foiling this is where i'm gon na start applying that demi permanent in between each of the foils, just where her last highlight session was at so basically for just those first, two to four inches, just to help control a lot of that orange and Warmth and banding that she has going on right in that zone and i'm gon na let that process. And then, when i start working towards the front, i'm gon na check on those back sections periodically and if it's ready to rinse out. I know that the color and the lightener all processed at the same time, so i'm totally good there. Basically, what i'm saying is this is why i mix up two different batches at two different times. I basically treat the back section as one set of bowls that i'm using and then the front section is gon na, be a brand new batch of lightener and my demi permanent as well. Now this is where i'm going to start using my 30 volume developer. Still one to two mixing ratio with my blue powder lightener. Now this might scare you or some of you out there, but that is okay. If you're still comfortable with using the 20 volume, then just use the 20 volume, i'm comfortable enough to use a 30 ball, and i know that i'm gon na be really careful with overlap. So if that's not you that's! Okay, it's okay to use 20 volume! So now i'm going to work on these side sections all horizontally, so i'm going to work from the bottom and then work my way up and keep in mind. I left that money piece little section out. I'M actually going to do that last because that's another little area where she had a ton of breakage and typically i like to do the money piece first before doing these side sections but again customizing this for my client because breakage, we want to be really really Careful so i'm getting pretty close here right on top of that ear, and each of my sections or subsections are just as wide as the ones in the back, so about a quarter inch wide - and here i am weaving she didn't - have a ton of breakage right Here in this interior front section and she didn't have as much banding going on, which is why i went back to my weaving technique. But if you want to know what a money piece is, and you want to learn a technique for it, be sure to check out my other hair tutorial, which is called the perfect money piece and i even have tons of other money piece tutorials. In fact, i have an entire series of videos. Even for curly hair straight hair, chunky money, piece, subtle, money pieces, you name it they're all there you can click on the link at the top or also at the description in this tutorial. So now this is getting a little redundant here on the sides. Let'S go ahead and move on to that front money piece, so i can show you exactly what i did to foil it up on these super fragile, broken little pieces. Basically, what i did is use that same technique of brushing the hair up and then weaving it down. Sorry i thought my camera was recording at this point, so my assistant didn't capture the actual weave portion, but i am being really really careful and i'm just gon na put in two back-to-back little baby lights right on to the side. Now, for those little hairs kind of around those temple area, i'm actually going to be taking those right on out of this foil in just a second, but they will kind of marry into that top section. So i actually have a little triangle piece on that top, and that is also in a little area where it's super fragile and really broken. So there's a total of three sections here on this front. Hairline again, this is customized for each and every single client. Sometimes it's just split down the middle, and sometimes it's just two sections and in this case i've got three sections going on here, so i just had to be really really careful. So here's a better example of how i comb the hair up and then weave these pieces down. You can see how broken these are, so i actually had to cut up the foil, really really tiny, to get these pieces of hair inside of a foil all while being super careful with my application. So, even though these are two little baby foils going on here, they are all going to be back to back with no hair as a subsection in between any of the foils. So this is really important that if you want for the money piece to be bold enough but again check out those other hair tutorials that i have on the perfect money piece. So that way, it can be a little bit more clear than what i'm showing you here in this video, since this is more corrective based versus the actual technique itself. So i just have to be really careful, because this is a correction nonetheless, and if you are struggling with deciding on a formula here, gentler is better meaning. Lower developer is best. So again i am comfortable using the 30 ball right here, because i know i'm not going to overlap and it is going to process at the same time and she's not going to have any breakage because of it. But if you're veering on the more careful side. Just go for the 10 or 20 volume here and just let it process a little longer. So as soon as i get this very last foil onto the head, i am going to apply that eight anyway in between each of the foils again right on that line of demarcation where she had her previous highlights done and where all that orange is living at. So i use anyway because they are living at about a level eight, because there's lots of orange kind of going on. So the eight is what is going to correct that orange base. So keep in mind, you can only tone at the level that you lifted to so, if i'm working with a level eight orange, i'm gon na use that level eight toner and i'm not worried about it over depositing so long as my formula is correct. So 8 anyway has basically an ultra ash pigment to it, and it's going to do exactly what i need it to do, which is control and correct so when she was done processing and lifted it to a nice level. Nine. I took her back to the shampoo bowl removed all of her foils, bringing that lightener down to buff out some old toner did a thorough, shampoo and treatment right at the bowl, brought her back to my station and got her ready for her base, break color melt And toner and more correction kind of going on, so i basically sectioned off her hair, taking that money section right on out in the front hairline, because that is going to be last and then just made four quadrants from there on out so kind of mimicking. What i did in the very very beginning with the highlights minus extra sections, so we got a nice base going on here, so i'm actually going to use studio styles express 7a and 7n and then for her ends, i'm going to be using more 8 anyway and Blending that into 10 ash, so i love using studio styles express number one. It works great on damp hair. It'S not marketed that way, but it does work great because it not only covers grain. It is a 10 minute hair color system. This is also going to tone and soften that line between her natural hair, as well as those highlights that we just put in so i'm going to tap this in on that first inch and then get a little deeper as i get closer towards the top. But i'm also going to be bringing it down and blending it into my demi permanent overall, the studio styles express is going to break my base. So basically give me a little bit of pigment shift. It'S also going to soften the lines, and it's also going to correct and diffuse that line of demarcation between the natural and the highlight and as soon as i'm done, applying that i'm mixing up my demi permanent immediately and then applying it onto those mids and ends Using a comb to help bring it down and i basically want to blend those two colors together. So even though i'm blending permanent into demi, it works totally. Fine. Just keep in mind that the studio styles express works really really quickly. So you want to apply as quickly as possible with your demi permanent and as soon as i get that on i'm going to only process this for 10 to 15 minutes. Something that i didn't film. But it's very important and worth mentioning is to make sure that when you apply your studio, styles express to apply it to that money piece last. You want that to be the last thing, that's processing, and that goes the same for the demi permanent. You want to apply that last because you want the brightest effect around that hairline and now i'm going to show you what the final result looks like at 4. 30 p.m, at the end of fall in california. So sad it gets dark here so early. But here is what her hair looked like before you can see those massive roots and orange bands and here's her after and look at those hairline highlights. I seriously am obsessed. We started out with lots of extra regrowth in the interior underneath and she just really wanted a softened highlight hairline and her hair super healthy and unfortunately i didn't spend enough time styling her hair, because i didn't want to beat the little last bit of barely sun. That was poking out because i wanted to at least get this on film, but i think this is a great first session when this grows out. We can just do a regular highlight on her and not so much correcting, but this is a great first session and i really hope you like it. So i really hope you enjoyed this hair tutorial and if you did, please give this video a thumbs up and make sure to subscribe and comment down below what your favorite part of this entire tutorial was and i'll be sure to respond. And you can follow me on all my other social media channels like facebook, instagram and tick tock, all under mirella manelli and if you enjoy listening to podcasts, be sure to listen in on my podcast called hairbnb. It'S a podcast all about hair beauty and business. For more free education, you can head over to mariellaminelli.com and subscribe to my email list and get free education, sent right to your inbox and finally be sure to check out my other hair tutorials right here on this channel, and i will see you next time.