How To: Lightening Salt & Pepper Hair - Chromastics Pure Tone Hair Color

Hello, my fellow colorists i'm tom dispenza and today i want to talk about lightening and coloring the most difficult hair we see in our salons, i'm referring to salt and pepper hair, in which the pepper is either darkest brown or black. I want to concentrate on two techniques: super glaze and high lift brunettes. Let'S start with super glaze super glaze is the low lift full deposit color. It is created by mixing 30 grams of permanent color plus 30 grams of deposit, only color plus 60 grams of 20 volume developer, and it's only timed for 20 minutes. This chart shows the results of mixing chromastix, permanent, colors and chromastix deposit only colors for a superglaze. They both use 100 oxidative dyes. However, the ph is very different when they are combined, we create a new ph of approximately 9.25. This means less swelling of the hair, both permanent color and deposit. Only color can be mixed with multiple developers. However, super glaze is designed to be mixed with 20 volume developer and the mixture only works with ammonia and amp. It will not work with mea, which is also known as ethanol amine. And finally, you create one half to one level of lift depending upon timing. A super glaze is normally timed for 20 minutes, but can be processed for 30 minutes 20 minute timing gives approximately one half level of lift 30 minute. Timing gives approximately one level of lift. Super glaze has been designed to either blend or completely color gray, hair to blend gray, hair mix, a formula that is two or three levels lighter than the natural hair color for complete gray coverage mix, a formula that is the same level as the natural color one Level lighter than the natural color or darker than the natural color concentrates can be added to a formula to customize the color results. Superglaze formulas should be applied to hair that has been shampooed with clarifying shampoo and then towel. Dried do not condition the hair before the super glaze is applied. You may spray the hair with chromastix leave-in conditioner, if necessary, to comb through tangled hair. Here'S a sample of the virgin hair. I used for all the swatches. It'S a mixture of 50 white and 50 black. This first swatch is a combination of 1n black and xl cream. Here'S an interesting fact about chromastix black. We made black color differently than it has been made in the past. We created black color. That does not contain ammonia or ethanol amine, and if the hair is fine or medium textured, it is mixed with 10 volume developer. Yes, you heard correctly for finer textured hair. You can use 10 volume for complete gray coverage if the hair is coarse, textured, it's mixed with 20 volume. Here we have a 4n super glaze. It was created by mixing 30 grams of permanent 4n and 30 grams of deposit. Only 4n and 60 grams of 20 volume developer. It was processed for 20 minutes. We created a light golden brown color, and here we have the same super glaze formula, but with three grams of blue concentrate and six grams of green concentrate added to make the color light ash brown. No extra developer was added for the concentrates, and here we have 30 grams of permanent 3n and 30 grams of deposit. Only 4n and 60 grams of 20 volume developer. What you should notice. We created a light medium brown color. What you should also notice is the swatches do not look orange, which is one of the biggest problems we have when lightening darkest brown or black hair. Now, let's move on to high lift color high lift color is used to lighten coarse textured, salt and pepper hair up to three levels without creating excessive warmth. Here are two high lift formulas you can create in your salon number one 30 grams of excel super plus 30 grams of chromastix permanent color plus 60 grams of developer formula number: two is 45 grams of xl super plus 15 grams of chromastix permanent color plus 60 Grams of developer, the developer can be either 30 or 40 volume depending upon the texture of the hair. This first swatch is just 1n black mixed with 20 volume developer and applied for 40 minutes. This next swatch is 40 grams of excel super plus 20 grams of 1n plus 60 grams of developer. You can see: we've created a darkest brown final color. The third swatch is 45 grams of xl super plus 15 grams of 1n plus 60 grams of developer. You can see we have created a deep medium brown. Next, we look at 3n, medium brown mixed with excel super. First, we have 40 grams of excel super plus 20 grams of 3n plus 60 grams of developer. The result is lightest brown. You can see that it has a golden cast. Secondly, we have 45 grams of xl super plus 15 grams of 3n plus 60 grams of developer. The result is dark blonde. It still has a golden cast. The third swatch is the same formula as the second swatch 45 grams of xl super plus 15 grams of 3n plus 60 grams of developer. Only this time we added 4 grams of green concentrate, plus 2 grams of blue concentrate as a result of adding the concentrates. We created a dark ash blonde. Here are the two side by side we've put together a trial kit that includes all the colors i've used in this demo. The kit contains one each of 1n, 3n 4n deposit, only 4n xl cream, xl super green, concentrate and blue concentrate, including shipping. It is only fifty five dollars go to the quarastics website at www.cromastics.com click on the purchase, the super glaze high, lift sample kit button and enter your info. I'M tom dispenza and thank you