Brassy To Ashy Tutorial | Ashy Mushroom Brown Hair Color

Hey guys, today's video is going to be a transformation from a warm blonde into a ashy mushroom brown. So if you guys, like mushroom brown hair tones, then keep watching also before we get into the video don't forget to like and subscribe, you guys can find me over on instagram at christy at the cottage all right. Here'S my client's before growing up blonde she's. Usually nice and bright, but today she wants to go for a change. Okay, so my client that i'm doing right now, the last time she was in was like in july, which i really thought it was september. I'M shocked that it's actually been so long, um and the very first time i did her hair was almost a year ago, and we did it like really bright blonde and then the second time i did a video and it was like me kind of panicking because I was having a hard time trying to figure out the color that she wanted and anyways i did a video of it and it like was super stressful for me um. She kind of toned it down a little bit and then this time we're doing her hair. She like wants to go dark for sure um, except for she wants to leave some some, like very fine little highlights, but just definitely darker and um. I glad that i asked because all of our phones kind of have a different tonality to them, and so on. My phone, the dark color, looked like a very like chocolatey, warm brown, and hers was very like ashy and so um. So she wants to be kind of like a level four level, five ash, maybe not quite yet that dark i'd probably do like a six. Maybe ash just to be safe, because ash is gon na look a little bit darker, anyways, okay, so yeah um, so we're gon na go through and do like some just a partial foil of baby lights. Just because she wants to kind of break up her roots. A little bit and still have that um darkness there. So she wants to keep the darkness but like just have a few highlights, but definitely like brunette with very limited amount of blonde in it, but just enough to kind of break it up. So we're gon na go through and do highlights right now, just like um, a partial foil of baby lights. She has a lot of blonde from like here down, even though we just like cut quite a bit of it off where it was more solid through the ends, and she said she doesn't really like it super solid through the ends. So we're going to start our foil and i'm going to use my schwarzkopf blond me with 20 volume and olaplex here, i'm just kind of asking her where she parts her hair and if it changes, because i want to make sure that wherever her hair falls, whether It'S in the center or just slightly off to the side. I want to make sure that she has a good amount of coverage and i don't want her to part her hair and then, since we're doing subsections, then you know some of the highlights fall on one side of the part, but then not on the other side. So usually, when i'm going through and doing where they part their hair, i usually do uh smaller subsections and then i also kind of put a little bit more foils in just that area where they part their hair at give or take a few little extra spaces. On the sides of the hair, i don't want to say inches because i'm not doing like you know a couple inches on either side of where they part their hair. But you know what i mean just make sure where they part their hair you're going a little bit over to one side and then also to the other to make sure that they have that coverage, because even if somebody parts their hair the same place every day. Like you're not grabbing the same exact hair, every time, that's going to be falling on the same exact side every single time. So i feel like it's good to just make sure that you cover that area nicely so that wherever the hair falls, they have nice coverage of equal amounts of highlights. So, just in this area here i'm going to be adding a little bit more highlights and less of a subsection and then once i get from this area, then i'll be kind of doing a little bit bigger of subsections and then spacing out and not doing as Heavy amount of highlights normally start my foils off by doing the hairline foils to have more of like a money piece and to have that nice bright pop in the very front of the hairline. But she doesn't really like that. So that's why i'm not doing that. On this service, and i'm just kind of going right at her hairline and kind of doing some soft weaves and just going straight, you know as a halo foil but then, as i make my way down the side of the head, i'm going to be kind of Diagonally, the foils down a little bit they're, not going to be going perfectly straight back they're, just going to be kind of angled, just just a little bit, because i don't want her to pull her hair back and she's gon na have all these stripes on the Side of her head so just angling, the foils a little bit is gon na prevent like that harsh line. It'S gon na help it kind of blend just a little bit more and then also i'm gon na try to stay not directly on her hairline. I'M gon na try to come off of it a little bit that way when she does pull her hair back. She'S gon na have her natural hair to help kind of blend those foils. So that way she doesn't get any streaks or lines or anything in her hair when she pulls her hair back. I ended up flipping onto the other side of the head, because i kind of was on a limited time frame. I only had like two hours to do this service and i really wanted to get her in, because when she messaged me, i had over a month until my next opening - and i really didn't want her to like you know - have to wait so long or like Go somewhere else, so i had an opening come up, and so i just wanted to make sure that i could get her in, because i really figured you know we're going darker. This isn't like a huge blonding session like we normally do so. I felt like i could get this done in you know a quicker amount of time and i ended up having my next client ended up having to wait like 10 minutes or so so, not bad, but usually my clients don't end up having to wait but um. I wanted to make sure that i started on the other side because i wanted. I didn't know how long this was gon na have to process or how long it was gon na take or whatever. So i just wanted to make sure that i got the foils in on this side of the head in case i ran out of time for foiling or whatever so um. That'S why i'm gon na flip kind of back and forth and do the sides, because i was paranoid that i was gon na run out of time and then i realized i had enough time. So i ended up extending the foils down the rest of the side of the head so and then popped a few in the back. So if you see me moving around that's why so this point is when i realized that i'm okay for time, so i'm just gon na extend these foils down the rest of the side of her head and also because i realized that i didn't have my typical Hairline foils, like i normally do where, if somebody pulls their hair back, even if we just do like around the mohawk section, but i do the hairline foils um, usually that's enough, because those hairline foils kind of help blend when they pull their hair back. They have that, like brightness kind of on by the temples and everything, but because we didn't do the normal hairline foils that i typically do. I realized that if she pulls her, hair back, she's gon na have highlights like on the mohawk section and then nothing on the sides of her head. So i realized that for one i do have a little bit of time and then for two that i better just hurry up and throw some foils down until we get to the top of the ear just down the hole sides of the head. So that way, when she pulls her hair back she's still gon na have some of these foils um on the sides and so she's. Not just gon na. Have this skunk stripe over the top of her head and i'm going to throw just a few little foils in this back section just to make sure that these start processing, because usually the back is a little bit harder to get as bright. And so i just want to make sure that this has equal amount of time to process. Because again i don't have that much time and i don't want to do the whole sides of the head and then do the very back section. And then it comes time to rinse and then these foils aren't as bright as the rest of the head. Just because you know i don't have time to wait for them to brighten up, and so i just wanted to make sure that i go back there and pop a few of these foils in the back to get these going first before i finish the other side Of the head and when i tell you that i'm really jumping around the head, i really mean it like. I went to the other side before i got to the back and i popped in a foil and then i was like oh crap. I better pop some in the back first so then i did that and then i went back to the other side of the head. I felt like i was your crackhead doing the service, but whatever sometimes we got ta be a crackhead, so you know just don't actually be a crackhead, so i'm just gon na finish these foils in the back and then we're gon na go and make our way Over to the other side again and then we're gon na finish that side and then we're gon na be done with the foil part of the service you can tell here, but the foil is just slightly angled and then also you can see that there's just a Little strip of her natural hairline right before the foil, so that's gon na help blend the foils back to prevent that, like you know, streakiness or whatever versus like going directly on her hairline and foiling back from there, that that would create a lot of lines which We don't want okay, so i just got done putting the partial foil on my client's head and she doesn't like having like a money piece or anything. So that's why i didn't do like the typical hairline foil that i normally did. I just kind of did it this way and i'm just doing really not. I don't okay they're, not like baby lights. I feel, like people get the term baby lights, just they use it all the time. Just like a typical weave, they weren't super fine um. The further that i got down over here, i did them a little bit more fine, like baby lights, but up here they were just like a standard weave and she normally parts her hair like straight down the center, so i ended up doing like pack them in A little bit more right in here with limited subsection, because she said she either parts her hair here or here. So i just want to make sure wherever it falls in this area. She has a good amount of coverage um and then i just kind of like you know, branch down a little bit more, so we're gon na go through now that that's processing and we're gon na do her darker color. So i'm looking at my colors and i really like the agora vibrance because i feel like it has good coverage and, like some people have asked like when they do a demi color like. Why does it look so translucent or why does it cover so much, and it really depends on what line you're using um like if i use paul mitchell, the demi? I know that it will be really translucent and show through. It doesn't have like a lot of depth to it and i don't know what the difference is um, but the agora vibrance has really great coverage. So that's why i'm going to use this because she does want it. Definitely darker not just like you know, soft or anything, soft and darker, so i'm looking at my colors and the color she wants is kind of like an ashier brown with like a slight hint of warmth to it. So i'm looking at um, i think i'm gon na use like five. I was looking at five two one, which is just like an ash brown or five one, six, which is like an ash chocolate, and i think i'm gon na use the 516 because i feel like it has a little bit of that warmth. Added to it, and especially going darker and cooler, you want to be careful and make sure you have a little bit of warmth in the pigment, because, oh god, this feels really like not full at all. Do i have another one 516.? I might be using the 521 then, and then i'm gon na add some natural to it, just to give it that warmth back in there um okay, so i might be having to do five. Two one i'm gon na use as much of the 516 as possible, and then i'm also going to use the six one. Two. So just be careful. If you use this line because i feel like the six one, two especially it can grab extremely blue, so be cautious with that make sure you add that warmth to balance it out to make sure it doesn't go too gray or too ashy or too blue or Whatever so right now we're gon na mix for this color and i'm still gon na try and figure out what color i'm gon na use so stay tuned, and you guys know me. I just pour a little this little of that. But i want to say that probably a quarter of my formulation was the level five, so you know just take that into consideration. Also, i don't have time to record me pouring so i'm going to do the majority of like five one, six, five, two one um, probably a quarter of my formulation - will be the six one two and then another quarter will be the five. So don't ask me what the formulation mixture is. I just told you so and i'm not gon na write it out either. Okay, bye, so do you ever apply dark color and then you feel like it gets kind of splotchy and you know it doesn't grab evenly or whatever i feel like going through and just spraying the hair down a little bit kind of helps it go on a Little bit more evenly and helps like spread out a little bit better versus just going on dry hair, and then you know, i just feel like i get a better, even saturation when i just wet the hair down a little bit and then another thing also is Because her hair was pretty blonde before and we've had a little bit of um more blonde through the ends of the hair, i want to make sure that, because it's a little bit more dry, you know how blonde just makes the hair dry and more porous, and So i want to make sure to spray the hair down just to kind of even that porosity out, and i don't want to put this dark color on her hair and then it really grabs extremely dark in the ends, because the hair is so porous. So i feel like if i go through and just spray the hair down a little bit before i apply the color, then that will help prevent it from grabbing super dark. So that's why i'm going to use my water bottle, i'm not doing it enough to like wet the hair down a whole bunch. Just honestly, just enough to slightly like you know, just make it a little bit damp. So that's why i'm doing that and then also um, i'm starting in the back, because, like i've said before that, uh 612 color is extremely blue based. So i feel like i have to be extremely careful for when i apply that color and i want to be able to keep an eye on it, because when you do these ashy tones like you, can try the best to your ability to really like formulate to Make sure that everything's gon na go perfectly fine and whatever, but like you know, sometimes you just never know i mean, maybe you do, but sometimes i just never know so. I feel like when i'm kind of unsure of how the color is going to turn out and honestly, like i've, never had the color go wrong but, like i just want to start on the back to be sure and to be safe. So that's why i started applying the color in the background. I could keep an eye on it and see how it was processing before i went to the front, because if i had to rinse it out, if anything was wrong, then it wouldn't be that big of a deal so now that i know that color's, okay and It'S processing, fine, i'm going to start going on the sides of the head, but i don't want to run it through the ends yet just because the ends are so porous and they are a little bit brighter up on the sides and the top of the head. Because it was solid blonde, so just to be safe, i'm not gon na run it through the ends. Yet i'm just gon na wait until, like the last probably the last few minutes to like just go through the ends and then um you know ashy your colors tend to go darker, anyways or tend to appear darker. So then, if porous hair sucks in color a little bit more anyways, then the ends of her hair would go even more darker than the rest of her hair, and we don't want that. So um i'm going to wait until the last few minutes to run it through the ends. So i feel like it's just kind of scary. When somebody has blonde hair and then they're, you know she usually does more of a golden or more of a warm blonde. She hasn't really done much of like these ashy tones before so. It'S kind of a scary transition for one to go. Take somebody dark when they've been blonde, but then the other part of it too, is that they're going ashier versus golden which is gon na make it look darker anyways. So i feel like that's something you really need to like express to your client like. Not only are we going darker, but you're gon na feel even probably more darker than what you really are, because we're going cooler which tends to appear darker so make sure that your clients are just prepared for that, because you know you don't want to do this And then you feel like okay, yeah we're just gon na do like a level five six, then in their eyes they look at it and think it's like a level four or something so just make sure to explain all of this stuff to your clients. Let them know that, yes, it's gon na, you know softly lighten up over time. The ends are probably gon na start feeding and brightening up or whatever, so just express that to your clients and then um just also be sure to leave the ends out. Look at how bright those ends are that would suck that color up and go extremely dark, so we're just gon na wait until the end to run the color through those blonde pieces all right. So here we are running the color through her ends and i'm just double checking again to make sure that it's you know not grabbing too blue or too whatever through the ends of the hair. I mean that looks really dark, so it's just crazy. How dark ash your tones look? So just you know if your clients freaking out just let them know like you know, it's okay and i told her when we were washing this out. I said you know, because we're going um, ashier and darker if, for whatever reason, you're not sure of the tone or if you feel like it's too dark or if it ends up being too, you know whatever we can always clarify it out and try to lighten It up or whatever so just give your client options and let them know that whatever happens, that you got it covered okay, so i waited a few minutes to pull the all over color through her hair, just because her ends were so blonde. I didn't want them to, like you, know, be porous and grab and turn like extremely blue or gray or whatever. So i just pulled that through, like the last, maybe like 5-10 minutes of the color seating on her hair. So now we're going to mix her toner and i want to keep her a little bit brighter but kind of cool. So i'm going to use the agora vibrance um 724, which is a medium blonde ash beige. So it just has like a little bit of warmth in there and then i'm going to use the nine just to keep it from going too dark and then also have that natural base in there too, to prevent it from going too ashy and then um. Eight one one and just to have like you know that ashiness in there too and um, you guys have to remember that what i use on my clients isn't necessarily going to work on you or your clients, because i'll get messages from people a lot of times And they'll say like hey, i used your formulation and it grabbed really blue or whatever or i don't know, and that's because maybe your formulation needs more warmth in it. Or maybe i don't know, but just keep in mind like what works on my client isn't always going to work on your client, like you, still have to use your judgment and formulate for your client um. So just keep that in mind, especially when using these colors, because they do go very blue and i don't want to be responsible for that. If you message me saying your client is blue, so okay, so we're going to apply that and then i'm probably going to take that um all over color that we did and just barely tap her root with it just to kind of blend it. Because i know she doesn't want her highlights to go like you know, be super bright up to her scalp, so um, that's what we're going to do to kind of blend her roots just a little bit, and hopefully it turns out like i am so anxious about This color ashy tones can be so tricky, especially when you know you're going darker and you just never know how is the hair going to grab? So that's why i started applying the color in the back, because i wanted to make sure like if, if i noticed that it was turning blue or gray or green, or whatever the hell color ashiness, that it was gon na turn um, then i was gon na. Be able to rinse it and it wouldn't be like up front or anything so always when you're unsure about the toner, which, let's be honest like it happens, sometimes you're just praying to the sweet. Lord above that this turns out. Okay - and you know generally, it does and never really is there a problem but, like you just never really know exactly how color's gon na grab. So that's why, in situations like these, i prefer starting in the back all right. So when i went through and kind of tapped the roots, it didn't tone it down a whole bunch, but i asked her if she was okay with it, with the highlights still kind of going a little bit brighter up to her roots, and she said she liked It and everything was fine, so um that turned out good and so here's her before again super long and then we did a cute little chop and then here is her after i love the richness of these ashier tones like when you do an ashy tone and It looks kind of drab um, you know because you it's not formulated, or maybe you didn't add any gold or warmth to the formulation, but when you can like formulate it just right and it has like a nice richness to it, i think it's so pretty. So here's the after! Thank you guys so much for watching, and i hope you guys like this video don't forget to like and subscribe and i will see you guys next time.