Mohawk Vs. Fan Foil Placement Hair Techniques & The Effects By Lo Wheeler Davis | Kenra Color
Learn the difference between mohawk and fan foil placements and the effects they create on the hair in this step-by-step tutorial by Lo Wheeler Davis.
00:00 Introduction + The differences between Mohawk and Fan Foil Placements and when to use each technique
00:41 Mohawk Hair Foil Pattern
09:25 Fan Hair Foil Pattern
16:49 Mohawk & Fan Foil Design side-by-side comparison
19:11 Final result side-by-side comparison & toner selection
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Mohawk vs. Fan Foil Placement Techniques & The Effects by Lo Wheeler Davis | Kenra Color
#blondingtechnique #blonding
Hey everyone., I'm Lo Wheeler Kenra, Professional's Brand Ambassador and I'm super excited to demystify the difference between two foil placements Mohawk versus fan.. Let'S get started.. The three tips I want to share with you today is knowing the difference between Mohawk and a fan pattern, and when to use them for your clients., We're going to discover which placement to use for clients that want a lot of contrast, then, which placement is going To be best for dimension., And then also what placement are you going to use dependent on how your client parts of their hair, Our first technique, is going to be a Mohawk section and just for consistency, both of my doll heads are going to have this same Block section on their crown., So we can really do a side by side of the results for you.. So a Mohawk section in the most simplest description is foils that go horizontally back in a grid-like section.. This is really a traditional approach to foiling.. I'M going to let down this section and then start working from the front to the back., And we know when we do that. The front will be a little bit lighter.. So you have to make the determination if your client's hair can handle that in the front.. So Mohawk section is super traditional. If you've ever been into a salon or seen anyone foiling hair you're going to come across this Mohawk sectioning placement. And basically, what you're going to look for in the end result is a high level of dimension. We're taking a medium Weave to just illustrate this and we'll understand that when you keep going and following a grid-like pattern, you're going to get a grid-like result., This looks like a high level of dimension in the finish.. So I'm going to section by section do a medium weave, bringing my Blue Powder Lightener consistently through my foil. I've mixed it 2:1.. I liked foiling with a little bit of a looser texture with my lightener, because I want it to glide through the hair., I'm not going to totally pull it through the ends because they're already pretty light as you can see. But I do want you to see the difference in the two placements., So I'm going to go ahead and go through the mid-shaft as well.. One mistake I used to make when I was in beauty. School is not dropping in a section of hair in between each foil., And it would just be like so funny, because I would pull all the foils out and literally there'd be no dimension left in between, because I was picking up everything in the foil. And it Was just like I didn't know what I was doing wrong at the time., But that piece of hair that section of hair in between the foils is going to change the outcome. And overall look of the dimension you're creating.. There is a big difference in the two words dimension and contrast.. I'Ve learned that dimension is a great way of illustrating the amount of shades and inflections in the hair., Whereas contrast is a difference of the levels between two opposite tones. ( upbeat, music ). As I work through this Mohawk section, I am committed to keeping my pattern because if I start to veer off and start to work off of a diagonal and change up, all of my foil positionings, it's going to change the end result.. This is a super classic approach, and so I'm locking my technique and pattern basically into this grid-like consistency where it's going to be super, even as I followed through with completing this section. And what this is going to do as an end result. Is it's just going to have such a bold dimensional effect. And it's really ideal for a client that can't commit to a hair part and want to see tons of inflections in their hair.. So you know those clients that are blondaholics those clients that flip their hair. Around., So what happens when our client has this placement and they decide to flip their hair around Because we're creating such a systemized grid-like pattern. It doesn't matter where they flip their hair. There's going to be a presence of color in every subsection.. It'S very, very thorough.. It'S a great way to make a very picky client happy. If they want to put their hair around they're, always going to see that presence of dimension, which is a really good thing to know. When you're going through a consultation., ( upbeat music ) In the sections that there's a little bit more depth in I'm going to go ahead and bring the color the lightener throughout the whole section.. One tip I like to implement when I'm foiling, is starting to apply. My product a little further away from the root area and just working the product up slightly.. This just helps me to avoid unnecessary like sloppiness and bleeding, because you know how lightener swells in the processing time.. So we don't want a lot of product right at the end of the foil towards the root.. We want a good amount of product, but not too much.. We don't want it to swell change, move and create issues and bleed marks., I'm very, very picky with that.. I never get bleed marks and I'm so happy to share this tip with you.. It'S like so stressful to rinse somebody out and then see a bunch of bleed marks. Everywhere. Then, you have to like overshadow and overcompensate and you're like all stressing out, but it's really easy to avoid that by just being a little bit cleaner and more deliberate with how you initially put the lightener onto your foil.. One thing, I will say is: if you are using a Mohawk foiling technique just like this, it really is a challenge to just leave it at this placement. You're going to have a drop-off. If you don't continue your placement in a similar fashion, down the other quadrants of the hair., So really you're looking to do like a pretty substantial, foiling job.. So this is more geared towards those full foil clients., And you want to make sure that you charge according to that labor and also that amount of coverage and appointment time as well. There's a little business strategy for you.. I'M excited to show you the fan technique, because there is some really good points of difference that will contrast what we're doing at this point.. So this is like such a traditional way to approach hair and just get a high impact.. So you'll see a lot of different educators, putting their own spin and sub-sectioning onto this classic approach. And doing like diagonals in a Mohawk section, leading back and doing little specific customizations that you'll see get slightly different results.. My challenge for you would be to try this technique as it is super classic notice, your results and measure them and then make your own creative, customizations., (, upbeat, music, ), Okay, now moving on to our fan type of pattern, basically, I'm going to stick within temple To temple, just like the Mohawk section. And we're going to do similar coverage of circumference area.. However, I'm going to work off of a middle part., You can work off of any type of part that your client is naturally parting, their hair at. But it's just going to give a little variation in effect., So I'm going to work off of a middle part. And the fan shape pattern is going to literally be going this way instead of horizontally and going straight back., And really I love this, because what it Accomplishes is it has like a little bit more of an organic aesthetic because you're actually looking at the placement versus just a bunch of grid like pieces., So you have the opportunity to make more contrast in the hair versus dimension.. So I'm going to start by laying the first foil in this way. ( upbeat, music, ), Okay! So now I'm gon na take this immediate next section and I'm going to pull it towards me and do really nice moderate, weave. And piggy that right back onto my section. And we're going to do this same pattern for a good couple. Foils deep. And then I'm going to show you a main difference between your options with a fan placement and a Mohawk replacement.. But until then I am just going to work my product towards the scalp just like before. Again. This is going to give us an opportunity to have different spacing between our sections and we have different amounts of space between the sections you're able to control, not only the dimension you're able to control the amount of contrast, you're seeing in the hair.. So, with a heavy, systematic weaving, the placement you're going to see just total dimension., But with this we're going to start to be able to work off diagonals. We're going to play with spacing the foils apart and that's ultimately going to give us control over the contrast. We'Re creating., ( upbeat music ) Working on a fan. Pattern is also good for clients that, like to flip their hair., You just have to be a little bit more strategic with where you're, placing your initial foils and how heavy you choose to place them back to back.. But let's just say, for example, we're using this tutorial to work off the middle part. But if my client worked off a middle part and some times flipped to a side, you could do a heavy concentration of foils on each recession, which would be a side part area., So you're definitely not limited to just a middle part or a heavy placement. In a chosen part just because you choose to do that., You could easily make this versatile for people that flip their hair by how you continue to choose your placement. ( upbeat music ), As you can see, with just so few foils we're working with the width Of the foil to save us time in application., There's literally, what is it six foils here. And it already goes through the width of her entire crown area.. So how I'm going to build in more efficiency and dimension, and contrast with this - is I'm going to start to take diagonal foil placements, as I work down to her temple.. So, instead of doing a million foils, I'm really going to cut out pie sections, which is like I mentioned before, slightly more hair in between then what I had previously sectioned out., I'm going to work through the bias of her head and still creating the same pattern Of weave and thickness of weave., So, let's just say, revisiting the topic of like she parts her hair in the middle and on the side we're now getting in the area of like where a side part would naturally live.. So if I wanted her to have a side part there as well as a center part, I would just double back to back foils in the areas where she would theoretically like to part her hair.. So you can see the gap and distance between these main six foils and the seventh., And I'm going to do another pie, shape subsection and I'm going to connect it horizontally to the width of these initial ones.. And then I'm going to repeat this on the other. Side. ( upbeat music ), I'm always going to make sure that this point at the temple is closest to the others.. This is going to give me a slight money piece effect, which is always a good thing. ,'Cause it's super in style.. So that's what we're gon na do. And now our final subsection again we're going to come down at a diagonal.. It'S going to be a little deeper in the crown area, and this extra space in between these foils, as you remember, is just going to cause a little bit more contrast, which is what we're shooting for.. We know we all have those clients that love a good contrast. ( upbeat music, ), Here's our two different foil placements. And, as you can see, there's a couple little differences between them., So the fan shape placement is really great because I was able to create a Little bit more separation between the subsections, that's going to result in so much more dimension., So here's tip number one.. If you want your client to see a lot of dimension and contrast, you would easily opt into a fan, shape pattern. Tip number two. We can see that there's so much more placement in this Mohawk section.. So that's going to cause an extreme amount of dimension., So tip number two is: if you want a client, that's looking for a high amount of facets in the hair and inflections in the hair. Aka dimension you're, going to opt more into a Mohawk pattern. For flipping the hair. We'Ve learned that you can flip the hair with both of these different patterns, but you're going to have to make a conscious effort to keep your placement in mind when you do a fan with a client that's going to flip. And then also, if you have a Mohawk section that you're working through to cause a lot of dimension for your client's hair. They can part it zigzag to the left to the right and you're going to have color placement in all aspects of the hair.. So the Mohawk placement gives the most coverage. And if you have a client that likes to part their hair some of the time, but they don't flip their hair in numerous different directions. The fan is really minimalist in super effective for hair flippers as well.. Our final tip in this tutorial that I want you to take away from this is that both techniques are effective.. They both offer a dimension, and some contrast, one is just higher contrast. And one is just higher dimension.. This pattern. I was able to count the foils and I was able to achieve the same surface space with a good three less foils.. So, if you're looking to save time, this might be a better option, but if you're looking for like really really thorough placement, this is the option that you will want to choose.. I did take the opportunity to do the same shadow root on both of them, so they would just finished and, as you would actually finish, your clientele as well and see the final results. So you're, looking at an 8NA shadow root, which is like super nice and Neutral., So the difference between the fan and the traditional Mohawk is exactly what you're. Looking at. With the fan. You get a little bit more dimension because this hair, when it splits you can see some of that interior depth. That occurs when we space out the foils on a dimensional diagonal parting.. So that's the result that you're looking to achieve. And with the Mohawk, it's very grid-like., So you're going to see a little bit more diffusion, a little bit more dimension versus contrast.. So here are the two final results, and this will vary on client to client.. Some clients will lift a little bit more. Some will have finer hair in which you can make little tweaks to the space in between your sectioning., But I'm really excited to show you. The different ways that you can customize your foiling services based on your client's preferences., My name is Lo Wheeler and I'll. See you next time.
Comments
Angeline Biswas: Pro tip: if your lightener swells too much add a few drops of tap water to your bleach mixture. You’ll never have bleed marks and swelling again
Heather Reis: I like these techniques but personally always do the opposite-foiling back to front (crown to front hairline) in mohawk sections & go from bottom to top on sides so once foils are in they stay put to prevent bleeding
depeesify: I think it would be much more helpful if you showed us the raw result before the final look. But this is great. Thank you for sharing this
IMSODONE: Thank you for the education. We didn’t even learn how to do foils 35 years ago when I went to school. We pulled hair though a cap. This is so much better. I’ve seen this done at hair shows, but you did a really good job explaining the placement of the foils for the desired effects. Great job. I’ll have to get a mannequin to practice on.lol
Angela Hagood: I never even knew there was an alternate way of placing the foils! I love the finished look! I also loved the blond color, stunning! Thank you for sharing this technique with us!
Debbie Packer: That was very helpful. I've been trying to learn how to foil myself, and I wasn't sure which way was going to save me time. Clearly the fan method saves time and also provides that dimension I'm looking for. Thank you so much for this!
Fatima Avila: It’s always nice to see the results of different placement techniques
Rizzo Ruiz: I had several “ah-ha” moments with this! I love the results of both and can see how they would benefit needs for different clients! Thank you for sharing!
L. Havvke: my hairdresser has always done me the fan technique. I often tie my hair back and you could see the light colored stripes with a strong unnatural contrast. during the lock down I discovered the mowhawk technique, I did the bleaching by myself and the result is much more natural. I make very thin sections and I am fine!
Starmane: I’m glad you said you shadow rooted them because every time I’ve tried the fan technique or any horizontal highlights even if they are super fine weaves and sections it looks crazy without a shadow root.
Cassidy Savage: I’m in hair school and how Lo has broke down the two differences in the techniques makes more sense to me on the out come! Thank you!
Cindy Tan: I really like this video! I usually do the Mohawk section for most of my foliage but I’ll try this fan section out looks like it’s just easier and saves so much time
lizzet castro: Loved the video , please more videos on foils placements and or patterns , thank you ❤️
Polina Sh: Thank you for master-class! But it’s a bit scary to place the foils vertically because of product can flow down on a scalp
Jill Jacobs: Hi Miss Lo!! We love your videos!! You do georgeous color,and easy to absorb! Thank you and please keep these coming!!!
lil.lina_diary: I love the fan pattern If I were to want an even more chunky look, like thicker strands, would I be able to use the fan pattern but just weave my comb through with bigger strands?
Natasha Eccles: I love Lo so much! She is such a sweet and helpful instructor! And this tutorial is perfect! Great technique demo!
kittykatsu: Thank you so much for this video!! It was so informative and exactly all the information I was looking for.
Ang Lu: Loved this ! You’re great at explaining !! Thank you!! Excellent job!!
Samantha Zone: the other reason I love the fan is for my widow's peak, I dont get any lines going horizontally. Thanks for the great vid. I love the fan technique as well for the natural aesthetic results
Jarod: Amazing tutorial and illustration of the two techniques great tips, and analyzes thank you so much <3
Evelyn S.: Awesome information and great tips on when to use each method. More content like this would be awesome. *Comparisons*
an opinion: you've earned a new subbie. I am so glad you showed how to flip the foil once it's folded, to one side to the other, without it slipping or bleeding onto the next subsection of hair. Thanks so much for this vid! They both look great, but I think the fan will be best for me to attempt on my own head!
Deana Flanigan: Nice video. For myself, I definitely like the mohawk style. I want dimension more than contrast. Thanks for showing us the difference.
Mrs B.: This was so helpful! Thank you so much for your thorough explanation. I would love to see how you apply the shadow root. I'm assuming its after you wash out the bleach. Is it on wet hair?
Rachel Simper: I’m applying to go to hair school for this January so I’ve been trying to learn as much as I can before going and I thought this was very informative AND easy to understand/follow. Thank you!!!
prqurn: They are both different & gorgeous. Very educational. How would you do this on graying hair?
Irene Smith: From a 30 + plus year professional I loved your tutorial ! Great job!!
elena mill: Great video! Just had a client who want more dimensions and was not sure how I should get it accomplished. I got it done but this method is better! Thank you!
Lynn 3218lb: You were fantastic! I really enjoyed this video, I was super excited, it was a great idea to show the two techniques, until you shadowed the root! I feel like it softened the result down to the point where it was more of a client visual end result, not an educational visual result! You did not need to do that! I wanted and needed to see the raw highlights results, so I could truly see the way the highlights looked and fell! Not every client wants shadow roots, even if it is the trend right now it will go out of fashion but these applications will not. A clean, raw result would have REALLY helped the professionals in an educational way. This is just a thought for next time, dry the the hair and let us see the raw highlights, then shadow root and let us see that. Thank you for your video
Sevi Regis: Very interesting. The Mohawk definitely looks lighter and more blended
Connie Squires: Wow this was absolutely best tutorial and great description showing step by step and what effects will each achieve. I ve always had the mow hawk done and it was too much of blended uniform highlights. Now I know that the wave is way to go for the dimension. !!thank you
2Infinity 88: You’re so down to earth! I made the same mistake in school that you mentioned lol. Thanks for all the tips I enjoyed watching :)
Lovelynn44: Wow that was Very interesting to learn! I Love the results of the fan method much better! Both are Beautiful!!
Helly Patel: Was really confused which type of highlights i want but after watching your fan method I'm surly asking my stylist to do that thank you so much
Piedad Arias: Gracias por subir vídeos tan bien explicados!! Pero por favor ponga el traductor a español en la parte de abajo como subtítulos
TinaSparkles: I usually do the Mohawk placement, but surprisingly I think I like the result of the fan pattern more
Dolsie Mercado: I love these two techniques. Thank you for the tips and explanation. Love you!!!
Alex Turner: I used to do Mohawk but switched to something similar to the fan technique because I watched color_spectrum on Instagram and she shows the difference between vertical and horizontal placements and the Mohawk is actually a vertical placement not horizontal because of how the hair falls. Vertical=more dimension(pieces of blonde and horizontal=maximum blonde (sheets of blonde) so the fan technique I would say has more blonde. The darker pieces are I believe the part that she didn’t foil so if you foiled with the fan technique on all of the front it would be super blonde. So I have switched to the horizontal foiling because you can do way less foiling but maximum blonde. Not to disregard anything lo wheeler is saying everyone thinks differently this is just what I have seen since switching from Mohawk to horizontal foils
R B: This was very interesting and explained well. I just wish she could have played with and shown more of the finished product in detail and better lighting. That’s just me though.
Jayra Jimenez: Thank you for this , love that I am learning , your voice is clear ! So excited to try them on someone.
Veronica: Me: not a hairstylist, but client, trying to learn so I can explain what I want to my hairstylist. This is incredible. Thank you
Shilpa Dureja: Thanx a ton how nicely u explained. It really helped me a lot in gaining the knowledge. I am new to this world , ur tips actually gave new dimensions to my theory. thnx a ton. Love from india
Erica B: love it!! this was so educational thank you <3
Rachelle Cathryn: Awesome video!! Just what I needed to learn! Thank you!
Myles D: This is an amazing demonstration!
Maria Nunez: Habemos muchos hispanohablantes que utilizamos sus productos, seria bueno que hicieras tutoriales en español.
Yohana SirenaYLS: Beautiful job wow thank you new subscriber I loved the fan one gonna try that on my teenage daughter
Jane Lambert: Love learning different techniques have been in the business 50 years still learn something new every day
Aracelys: Thank you for your tutorial videos, great job !
Allison Michelle: Great explanation of these techniques! Awesome video
Calv Ash: Great educator i love the way she explains everything.
Annette: LOVE YOU LO !! YOUR TUTORIALS ARE EVERYTHING
Iper’s World: I love how you explained it. I guess the Mohawk style is easier for me to do for my self. But i like the fan style tho. Thanks for sharing.
LYD VINCE CRUZ: Thanks for sharing that information.That would help me a lot.Love the results.
Wizdom 4 U.S.: I have been doing my own hair for 20 years I am looking for a contrast of my natural color which is kind of a dirty blonde with a lighter blond and a copper. I have done this before the colors were good but I think the technique could have been better. Can you answer which of the two full wheel techniques you would use to achieve the effects that I'm looking for. I'm not looking for hard chunky colors but yet at the same time I don't want them to be so fine and feathery that they're difficult to distinguish. I'm a few weeks out yet from coloring but I hope that you have an opportunity to answer thank you God bless great presentation by the way
Mary Morales: Mohawk technique seems like it makes more sense but I like the finished look of the fan technique better.
Crystal Elk: Hello Kernra. I'm Crystal Elk, from Vancouver BC Canada Great tutorial! I'm a new subscriber now! So happy I found you! I've been growing my hair back after 2 summers ago, my bff paid to cut all my hair off! @ salon, I must of been out of my mind. To do something I said I would never do, is cut my hair short? Now it's 7 inches down my back! Ya hoo! But it's all natural... My hair color is mousie brown... It has a touch of light brown & dark smoky grey! ( Not age grey!) Always has been this color under a Blonde, strawberry blonde Which I like best most my life since I was a kid we used lemon juice & then Sun In! Ha ha ha! BBM. I started Modeling @12 yrs old & back in the 60,s & '70,s, the. They had control of everything?¿ Sending positive vibes your way. Peace love dream's! ️⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐☠️️
Helen Valentina: You did an AWESOME JOB EXPLAINING THIS thank u
Jeanette Calise: Loved the video, going to try the fan pattern yes more videos on placement pattern
C. M.: Thank you so so much I finally understand the difference!
Griselle Gonzalez: So beautiful and helpful I would like to see them from the back as well
JOY: I love both but never understood the difference! Seriously tho you make it look so easy! Great video., will keep
Verena W.: Great explained!
Molls: Awesome explanation thank you !
Hope Faith: This was excellent! Thank you!!!
GWEN WILSON: In the fan technique you did 10 foils total ? Also the first six you didn't drop hair down between them ? What was your toner for the foils and how long you left the bleach in ,? Thx
Cristin Fountain: If you do the fan placement on top in the mohawk, how would you place the foils on the sides and back of the head?
biglouis: Nice techniques,well explain,thank you for sharing,congratulations.
Beth Tebow: You are AWESOME! I love your work. I wish you could do my hair Beautiful work
Tijana: I’ve always wondered, what happens to those mannequins that hair stylists practice/demonstrate on? Can they be reused? Are they tossed after?
Heriberta Angulo de Coté: Love boths!! ❤❤❤
Ioannis Antiotis: Very nice techniques! Thank you!
Eric Moody: I don't know why I'm here, I'm a boat builder. But wow, you have done this a couple times.... amazing technique.
Tamara Castillo: AMAZING video WoW !!! Most Helpful I’ve ever watched .. Kudos !!! ✌
EierkopfFuchsgesicht: Great video! Helps alot. Im just still a little bit clueless about the back of the head
odeth cedillo rosales: Beautiful!!!!! Thanks
The Master Diamond of My Life: very good explaination. thank you
Jen The Fairy Punk Mom: How do you avoid the foils sliding to avoid bleeding when doing a fan?
Iris T: How would you finish the rest of the hair for each style.
Maryam Sani: Thank you as always great job
Melinda Dalton-Horne: Love the fan method.
Luke Neri: Thank you for making this video. It’s great
Cindy Sayavong: I love it! Thank you for sharing
Mari Espinoza: Thank you so much for this helpful and educational video
Maritza H&M: I loved the fan effect thanks for sharing
Gary Harden: I’ll do the fan technique and do like three mow hawk in the front and ea side to hide the fan tracks
Angel Lopez_1984: Excelente video. Me encanta tener la habilidad de ser bilingüe y poder aprender de dos mundos.
Sleepy Pisces Love: I really love your color. Can u share your toner formula?
cynthia morgan: Wow that is awesome thank you so much for sharing your knowledge
Mazzy Star: Does a Mohawk section + sides = full head? Or do I have to do all 6 sections for a full head of highlights?
Jamie Brown: Loved this video ty for sharing
Tomasa Hernandez: Beautiful! Thanks for share.❤
A.Birkin HRMS: Woman.. This is the best video ever made!!!
Gso Gso: Thank you so much for the class you are a great instructor very knowledgeable and easy to follow they don't forget how beautiful you are your voice is very in chanting
Felicien Chanel: That was really good. Thanks.
Muse Uke: That was amazing. Thanks!
Tammy Brown: Awesome I love it
Smilesremember2Smile: Which one is better for someone who pulls their hair completely back? Like wears a headband with no parting?
Sarah Usman: i just messed my hair doing mohawk thingie, I always loved the fan tech and wanted the same result but unfortunately i been doing mohawk and was getting blended lights