How To Outline A Wig Cap

Okay, so for you who have been following me in this series, we did the the closure on the wig cap okay. So today the only thing we're going to do is the outline. So, as i mentioned before, i want to try to keep the videos as short as possible, so i'm just going to do like bit by bit. Just so you guys can keep up with me and if you ever want to go back to a video it'll, be specifically about a certain thing. So again, as i always mention, i use the the mesh dome caps for custom wigs by posh collection. These are the best wig caps. They have a nice stretch to them. They are very deep, so they will cover up the entire head. So you want to make sure you get those at iloveposhcollection.com i'm using a medium, and the medium is for a 21 to 22 inch head. The measurements are on the back, so you want to make sure whatever wig cap you're using that you're using that same um canvas head. So i have a 22 inch canvas head. Okay! So we're going to make this quick. So whenever you are doing a custom wig unit in order to make sure when you're and we're talking about whether you're hand stitching it or if you're doing it on a machine, especially if you're doing it on a sewing machine, you want to make sure you outline Your wig cap, because if you do not outline your wig cap, you will get lost. So i'm just going to place this back on the mannequin head and you want to always put it about where you think your client's forehead will stop, which will probably be about right here. You don't want to put it too far in the front, because that's not realistic, so you want to push it back. Okay, we're going to use the t-pins, and i'm going to show you guys how i lay my tracks to get fullness throughout the unit. Okay, this out the way and we're going to pin this down in the back i'll pull it kind of far. You want to make sure that the middle of your cap is lined up with the middle of the canvas head. So remember, i told you guys about how the the posh caps always have like additional materials. So this is what you need for your wig cap. So when you start stitching the tracks on, especially with the sewing machine again you're going to lose a lot of that material and the issue that a lot of people are having with their wigs being too small is because the cap starts off being too small. So then, by the time you're done with your wig unit, your wig is now super small. So you want to make sure you have extra material, and now i'm going to show you how i like to track my wigs like a lot of people. They may just start at the bottom and just go across like back and forth across. I don't like going across because it's not allowing any fullness on the side. So from the moment i start my wig units, i always start tracking the hair from one side to the other, so it's like you're going to have like a u-shape or horseshoe shape throughout the wig unit until you get about to the top. So i'm going to start with just a you want to make sure you have like a silver um marker or something i got a silver in like a little bronze color one, because i just want to show you where i'm going to stop at with the bronze Color, so you want to make sure you have plenty of markers because they will like run out on you really fast. I try other colors, the other colors. Don'T really work so just make sure you get like a silver or bronze. So what i'm going to start doing is about the temple area, i'm going to draw just a gold line, because all my tracks in the back, i want them to come up to the temple area and what that's going to do is allow fullness. It'S going to allow your tracks to fall towards your face, so if you're just doing tracks straight across in the back then, and if you do it straight across on the sides now, your your wig is falling straight down. You'Re not going to have any type of hair that that can like fall in your face. Okay, so i would say about right here: i'm just going to draw a line straight across, and this is just gon na be it doesn't have to be super neat. As long as you can see it, when you get on the sewing machine, okay, okay, so this one line is where i'm gon na have all my tracks in the back meet at okay. So now a lot of people ice axe. If you can stitch the tracks onto your band, you can stitch tracks onto your band. You just don't want to like overdo it. So when i first start because you still you don't want to take away so much of your elasticity, like it won't hurt. If you do overlap over the beam, just don't want to just keep overlapping over the band, because that's going to eliminate your elasticity so now again, the way i like for my tracks to fall are at an angle, so they can fall towards the base. So my very first track, i'm actually going to start above the band in the back so about right here and as i go up, i'm just going to follow above the band. But as i get to the top, i am going to actually cross over to the band, because i want that track to come all the way to the side, all the way to the end of the cap and i'm stopping them all at the goal line. Okay, so this is where you want your first track and, depending on how close you want your tracks to be or how full you want, your your wig to be would depend on how close you put your tracks. If you double the tracks, i've never doubled the tracks on my wigs because i always like for them for it to just kind of feel nice and even throughout. I don't really want to feel it being like super thick in the back and then get thin on the top. So i like to just and i'm not saying that's wrong, i'm just saying that i just don't do it that way. I just do single west. All the way through, because if i'm doing double wefts and i get to the side now - it's going to be thick over here - which is going to make your wig kind of stick out. Okay. So let me take this off. It'Ll be a little bit easier. So this is my first track, so i'm just going to do all my tracks like this in the back okay. So my next track may be about right here, but you still want to curve it up and you don't have to try to make all your tracks come to the end, because as you'll notice as i keep going through, like some of the tracks, won't even make It all the way to the side, but they're still going to have like a nice little curve to them. Okay, so here's our second track, then you want to just start above that one and you just want to continue. You may get maybe about 9 to 10 tracks back here and again. If you want more, you will just put them super close together. You guys see how i'm stopping all of them at the goal line, because once we go above the goal line, they all will start coming straight across from left to right, so that they will be flush up against the closure. Okay, so you don't want to keep doing this all the way up, because then the track will start kind of like flipping back, because it's going up too high. But if it stops about right here, that'll make it fall in this direction, whereas it's going up this way, it may start flipping backwards. Okay and then, once you get your lines on and you kind of get accustomed to using the sewing machine, if you want to go in between the line and stitch another track in between the line, then you can. This is like to just help you guide to guide you through the wig unit on the sewing machine, because once you get on this sewing machine - and you start sewing on this black cap, you will like lose your place. You'Ll get confused. If you do not have these lines, so you always want to outline, i do the outline after i put my closure on, because you don't need a outline for the closure and if you guys didn't see how i did the closure, it is on my ig page As well as youtube, youtube always has more detailed videos, because i'm able to do longer minutes where ig i'm only allowed a certain amount of minutes. Okay, so can you guys see that so all i did was took the lines up and, as you can see, the only one that's coming all the way to the side is the very first one and as you go back further back with your tracks, they're, not All trying to come to the side so now you're not going to have all that thickness of a bunch of tracks coming all the way to the side: you're not going to have that fat. So in you don't want a bunch of tracks once they start overlapping. Each other, it just starts to look super bulky. Okay. So this is your outline. You still have that the cap don't try to make. You don't have to try to worry about making a line super neat or pulling the cap when you make the line just kind of let the cap just fall into place and just lightly draw over it. If you don't stitch directly on the line, that's fine as long as you kind of try to stay in order with the line. The line is just there to guide you, but you don't have to try to stay directly on the line. It'S just there. So you'll know what section of the wig you are on once you pass that goal line, then you know you went too far, okay, so now and if you guys have any questions about what i'm doing you could leave it in the comment section on my page And i'll be sure to answer those questions so now, once we get above the goal line, all we're going to do is do straight across okay i'll turn it so you can see it so you're just going to run parallel with the goal line. Basically, once you get above the goal line just run parallel with the goal line until you've gotten all the way up to the top of your closure. Now this is a seven by seven closure, so usually, if i use a five by five closure, once i get above the goal line, i usually get maybe about four or five more tracks in, but because this closure is bigger, then i'm only probably going to get About two or three more tracks in but i'll, probably try to force, maybe another one, but my advice to you is, if you like, a full wig unit, always make it thick at the bottom. So if you want to put your track super close like say, if you're doing like a like a 26 inch, wig or 24 inch wig and you want it to be super thick, okay and long, you want to pack your tracks in the back. So you want to make it super full back here because from this part of your head on back you're not going to get that bulking so once you start packing the tracks too too much on the side, that's when you get the fat wig. So if you want to put your track, super close back here, just put your lines closer together, but as you get closer to the top, you don't want to put your lines too close together, because that's what's going to get you a bulky, looking wig, but when You use a 7x7 closure is really good, because the 7x7 is going to stop about right here. So you're gon na have flatness on the top before you get a bunch of tracks coming down. So let me just finish my lines. So that's the second line above the goal and then my last line i'm put right up against the closure. You don't want to overlap it on the closure, but you definitely want to sit right up against the closure. You don't want that space because when they park their closure, you don't want to be able to see that space, so your very last track should be right up against the closure. Okay, so it's kind of messy. I hope you guys can kind of get a general idea of what i did here. So the very first line you're going to go in and draw is your your goal line as we would call it that way. You know where all of your tracks are supposed to stop. This is very important, because if you were to put just another silver line right here, then you wouldn't know which silver line you're supposed to be stopping it. So the goal line is just to let you know exactly where you're supposed to stop placing your tracks. Okay, so i hope this helped you guys out. This is all we're going to do today. Again, if you haven't seen the other videos they're available on my page as well as youtube, so you can get caught up, but everybody who's doing. The wig series now should have their caps, and you should have your closure on by now and so now, today, your assignment is to go ahead and outline your wig unit, because what we're going to start doing for the next video is actually stitching the tracks. So if you want to hand stitch them, you can hand stitch them. If you want to try on a machine um, you can go ahead and get your sewing machine. I use the stinger. This is a fashion, make um it's available at joann fabric. They have other. You can you can sew on basically any type of machine that you want, but i just use the singer fashion map because it's easier for me. So if you want to continue moving forward, putting your tracks in then make sure you guys have your sewing machines available and get caught up. So this is your assignment. Let'S all get to this point, any questions you have leave it in the comment section on my ig page. I hope this was helpful. I'Ll see you guys in the next video