How To Cut A Short Graduated Haircut On Curly Hair - Short Bob Haircuts For Curly Hair

Hi everyone - this is Sally, Rogerson, 4xr, education, good evening, happy New Year to you all. Thank you so much to head break for having me and allowing me to stop need an ear off with you. All bride is going to be over on the side and he will be taking any questions was anything you want to ask me technique. You know anything whether it's about your career or the industry, I'm open to any questions, so Brad is going to be able to share anything with me. Many many different ways to come. A lot of people like to work on dry hair. I want to do that as well, but at the moment I'm really enjoying cutting hair when it's wet again lots of philosophies about, particularly men, must be quite wet. Then I like to cut it very precisely with the protection, so you can see I'm using my wire to our gifts, our education home, of course. What else would I be using and actually combing with quite high tension? I'M working powder power and my sections are deal with that afterwards and I actually started Mia and just went through with vertical diagonal sections. If we revert back to our foundational theory, then vertical sections tend to remove more weight, and so I'm using a vertical diagonal diagonal sections work with graduation really rough and what I'm doing is actually setting in my angle, graduation in this middle portion of the head. Worse before I work in to report to them, so what I'm trying to imagine is where I want to build weight. This is my model. She gives beautiful and wrote my house models and she has a really great round occipital bone and rotary prominent. So I don't really need to put words weight on top of it because already you know, wait when you're cutting curly hair and you are putting tension on the hair like I am, then you will find that the hair is going to spring back more, and I Quite like that, because it gives me a more soft and diffused kind of feeling with the hair, so I actually enjoy cutting curly hair with tension anticipating and knowing that the hair is going to shrink up a little bit more. So, as you can see, I'm really working with the hair getting my fingers in there seeing what it's doing, how is the hair reacting? You will generally find that curly hair. It springs up differently in different areas. My sections have been vertical diagonal and then going all the way through to the front, I'm not starting the knee, because I want to sit my angle and build my weight on the most round part of the head shape. First, I don't always cut like this, but I find it it's quite exciting and it allows you later on to be able to learn and decide how to go later on I'm keeping my sections more vertical, slightly diagonal as I come through to the front. So I want to get rid of quite a lot of this hair later on this front area. It'S going to lay down over the top of it, so if you're just joining us. Thank you so much. I'M sorry gorgeous lip. My hair education company is SR education. You can find out a little bit more about us if you're interested in Rogers and again my wonderful model, Miley she's, been working with us quite a lot recently and work here, GameSpot's there. So that's a little bit about where we are and what I'm doing is working with a short leash. Oh hi Steven Steven over there New Jersey, great hope everyone's having a wonderful new year. Oh yeah, Jessie, Jessie Frey, is actually one of my other SR education educators. She actually does classes for us our education over in Charlotte, so if any of you are over on the East Coast, keep that in mind not just me the progress, our educational policy. We have a whole team used to just be me route all the time, but now it's nice because I have to share it. So all I'm doing is I'm combing the hair quicktype now sometimes I'll cut hair with very loose tension, and that's really why you choose the comb that you want to use. You know, if I'm doing tight attention, then I'm going to choose to tighter kind of comb types, sometimes I'll I'll, actually cut with super loose tension and a really big wide teeth cut. I'M not a hair cutter that just like to pigeonhole themselves. You know we also do amazing razor cutting classes with us, our education, I'll cut hair dry wet. I don't like to pigeonhole myself, I like to do whatever I feel like at the time, and so I think that you know to me. There is no one way to cut hair. There is no one way to color hair. I think, if you know technique, you know, do you believe in the Salim? You know one cut hair the same everybody like I would try and pair with a lot of different ways from the front from the back just so, I hope you're all doing really good. Thank you so much for joining us this evening. Thank you to pea-brained hope. You'Re all feeling great after you New Year's Eve celebrations, and it's really nice to start the year out with something like this to get inspired, to have a few techniques that you can take into the shower and also, I think, talk about trends right, because I think Trends at the moment, you know we're seeing a lot of stronger hair cutting and in our classes we get this a lot. A lot of people are saying to us: I've been doing color classes for three years to three years, and now I want to get back into how to cut hair. So cutting hair with a lot of technique is the thing that's in fashion right now. Isn'T it so I've cut this side already, I'm just in the middle you'll notice. I haven't cut this bottom area yet now the hardest thing on graduation is balance so a little tip. What I tend to do is I take a strip of hair from the first slide that I cut a section off and clip away that first site. I'Ve just got this strip of hair here and then I take all of that hair over to my other side and I'll use that as my guide right, so I'm just dunking down actually leaving I'm using a Lehmann treatment spray. I love this formula rate team and it's amazing to cut with on curly hair, because you get a bit of moisture as you're cutting. So now my sections are going to be the same to the other side, which was more vertical diagonal and what I have is I actually have a guideline. I actually have a line from the other side, so you can see the hair that strip of hair there. They took from the first side is now my guideline. You just pump it out for me bright a little bit. Thank you actually did my hard side first, I'm right-handed, so I did my right side. First put the brake up so that I could show you the other side of the easier. So now you can see my guideline, so that tells me what to cut. Remember, I'm not cutting the underneath. Yet, let's talk about the advantages of using this technique, rather than starting in the day, he's a little bit more advanced. Obviously you have to feel like you and your understanding where you build in the weight, but the advantages of doing it. This way, a client perhaps very tricky growth patterns in the nape area. Maybe they want like a high graduation in the above, the occipital bone, but they have, you know either a very fine hairline or a very low hairline or just how I'm. So. If I actually stop here, I put later on go down to that bottom area and make a decision how tight I want to go, how much hair I want to dependent on that power. Yeah formulary teen is the bomb.com right. I love it. I love how use styling products shampoo conditioners. I mean very good question on different hair and I also use it to achieve different results on curly hair. If I am, then I'm going to end up getting something, that's a little bit more. Do use them stuff when it drives, because it's going to spring more and actually end up diffusing, I'm not going to be left with a line, sometimes on hand. If I'm working on, let's say the crown or a difficult hair line, then I'll back off from the tension and hardly even hold it, I know I'll be using this or even a bigger comb right. So I hope that answers that question. Thank you so much. I do not cut hair, oh my classes, we have a lot of purses all over the place. We are based here in spots down in Arizona. We have the Academy here. We do advanced training classes, we also do teacher training and we are starting cosmetology yeah in January, and it's going to be a very different cultural ecology program. It'S starting possible with filming video, editing, social media photography, and so you learn how to market yourself first and you learn how to build that. I, our next classes, are Sunday when a foundation, we also have a foundation class in Charlotte. You can find them all email. Us as well and we'll help you up personally, but the big thing we have coming up Bradley is right, so I also own a hash table and it's both thrive sessions and it's very small. It'S about 200 people. It'S not very many come ahead and take something home. Bribe is coming up 19 to 20, sweat. Yes, yes, and she is teaching modern salon hair, so it's full, unfortunately sold out in about a week yeah. So any of you, people that want to go to Jessie's classroom shower we're gon na put some more dates in yes, you know I can't get out to these. We have another question very good, so your section, but our section at the top is a triangle. The triangle has gone below the crown, so if you look at the comb, the round of the crown or the apex of the crown is up here. I'Ve chosen to go underneath the crown on purpose, because we have a lot of swirl in that crown. I'M probably gon na disconnect it a little bit and then, when it shrinks up visually I wanted so a great question is also going to disconnect so the bigger that section is at the top, the more obvious it will be. The washer is always your go-to and that usually sits really well on any hyper a triangle. If you go to disconnect it will disappear and blend your disconnection in. So it's very useful, a square or rectangle is going to really give you a lot of weight across the back and leave you corner. So you have to make sure that's what you want. Nothing is done randomly grab right. Okay, now, obviously you could leave it like this, which is kind of cool if I was doing a photo shoot or something I might go and do something like that. But that's not what I'm looking for today, I'm actually going to go in and graduate and connect all of this. So it's going to go in pretty tight. We also pre colored Mandy's hair as well. She was very red. You'Ve, probably seen it on my Instagram. I have a new Instagram by the way as well, so we're not going to be posting on our old one were going to sell grudges and official is our new one. Yes, but you might have seen her was very red hair before which is slowly trying to get a bit lighter. So you can see here I'm using the top hair, but I graduated as my guideline and then I'm choosing with my finger angle. How tight I want to go in or how much length I want to leave around the outlines. So again, it's just depending on what you want it to look like number two. It could be. How strong is that hairline? Because if it's springy, you might want to leave a bit more hair there all sections and I'm going to be moving forward with them. If you pivot you'll end up with too much luck apparent there, so I'm going to be ruling through with the same section as I go and then bring the hair connecting to the top. Because my guide is the head: I've already cut up there and then I'll start to move down and use the previous section of sky, I'm a right-hander. So I have to be very conscious and sure to be pushing my weight and traveling to the right of my weights on my right foot to my right leg and I'm encouraging my body to push my fingertip in and not stand on. My left leg and push my fingertip out because that's when I get the problem with the balance of being a lot of stuff that we teachers you know, Brad is all about body position. If you get your hands on your body position right life's easy nice, hello, Ben insert, hi, Rick Bennett, Rick, hi Rick, my good friend, Rick Bennett, I'm really hoping to see you at thrive and I've known Rick for many many years, amazing school, hi, Rick, hi Lawrence. Really nice to hear that he's on okay, so I'm going all the way down and all the way through again it's just connecting and I'm leaving a bit of hair in that bottom area. And then I can decide how I feel do I want to carve my name into the bottom. Do I want to scissor over comb it up, leave it loose, no right or wrong. It'S your decision, you're, the designer everybody in a lineup of 10, might do a very different outline right and that's okay and that's what we teach in all of our classes. We'Ll teach you the fundamentals of how to get through the haircut, but we also teach you, though it doesn't have to look a certain way has to be a reflection of your community, your it's your style, so you can see my shape developing right now, just gon Na let it dry as I go along and I'll be doing that outline after okay, I've also prepped, I've also prepped it and I've put some of the volumizing root mousse in there as well, and I'm cutting with that. Okay, I'm going to my other side and going this way vertical, diagonal section camera, so you can see now I'm just following my guide using my guide from my other side. You know. Also, this is a really great haircut to use asymmetrically keeps out behind the ear. I just remember my days of being sour, and sometimes we need different ways of approaching how to cut that hair, otherwise yeah. Well, I think you know they always say that you don't really know something until you teach it right, because you surprise yourself something that the doubt always would say it would be. Encourage people to share, share their information, share their knowledge and teach somebody who has something up get a lot more out there. Three tips on disconnection clearly go Tony Sadiq Tony and I have known each other media but never met. So what are these days? For me? Yes, you have to realize that it's going to shrink up the hair is going to change so sometimes I will maybe disconnect a little bit bigger. Often I choose to disconnect more on curly hair, because if I disconnect and choose a smaller amount, then often it can look just like a lump or can look like a mistake. Also disconnection on curly hair, I think, has to really reflect the pattern of the curls. So, for example, you will find that curly hair is often not a regular, so you'll often get curls that are tighter in that middle back area, sometimes it's straight to in the underneath, so you get multi textured hair. So I always try and make sure that I disconnect the really curly areas more and that's when place. Your disconnection, I think, is everything, but you have to read the patterns of the curl and try and just go with it not be too obsessive. Try and use your eyes a little make sense hope that helped I'm very technical but I'm also very loose at the same time. So you know I mean like I'll, put a technical shaking like that and then after that, I'm all I'm curling hair. It starts to gather a little bit here and especially if you're intending like I am on putting that hair over the top. This hair here can get very heavy when you lay it down from the front view. So what I'm gon na do is I'm gon na go back in, and I'm just gon na take this corner out here, because this has gon na fall over. It will make it less big from the front profile later on. So I'm gon na come through almost like a round graduation and just come through and take a little bit of this corner off from here, so that it lays a bit better and also sometimes it gets a bit frizzy around there. Doesn'T it so I'm just taking that corner out, I'm gon na bring this hair forward, lift it up, obviously, the more I lift it, the softer it's going to be not looking for it to be super hard. The colors working really nicely it's a. We did a bleach, we did funnel 18 bleach like never like to call it. I'M ENGLISH bleached it and then our toner is half vanilla, half blush again that blush toner is like everything to me. I put it on so many people, but it's really pretty super shiny, so lots of love Dena is also agreeing. She surprised me, so that's so surprising to learning growth routine. Oh my god X. Our education is hottest. We have a three month, one coming up in Charlotte and wine estates. In March we have a brand-new 12 months mentorship, starting here in Scottsdale in January, in like a couple of weeks, something like that. We'Ll probably start another one later on in the year, but we're literally on waiting. This is kind of only on those twelve month ones, because I think it's just been this really big explosion of people wanting to learn how to teach. I was never taught how to teach. Oh, it's making it happen when alone. You know, I mean yeah and I did a lot of big failures had a lot of moments that didn't work, but I prefer to actually teach people. None of this watch me do as I do actually verbally explain how to do something. Yes, but a lot of people need help just getting organized something verbally. You know we have another question about texture and, yes, different comb, a very good question again, both sides. Let'S imagine this scenario so when they blow dry it out straight, it looks great, even if it was fine or think that wouldn't matter to me so that would be my thing is to I like to get a strong tension wise again, if I was cutting it Dry, I would probably hardly use my comb I'd be like no tension on loose tension. Wait I'm pulling it right a lot on purpose which a lot of people don't agree. That'S fine! It'S just what I feel like right. So now we've decided to actually work on this kind of longer front feeling. So how we're going to do that? I have a big triangle through here. It stops underneath my crown because the crowds quite springy and I might need to leave a little bit more than step so there's many many different ways that I can connect this top area in. If you want to take a lot of weight out of it, you can actually connect and layer it. If you want to keep all weighted it like the client that had more fine hair, then I would kind of over direct it back. You keep more density in the middle. For me, I'm just going to probably just do a little bit of channeling, because giver loves their care through their. I would like to get a lot of different lengths, so I'll just very loosely channeling, but it's still gon na be technical, so like dumps, okay, so what I'm going to do is I'm going to get some of that color out and also just very dense through There then I'm going to take my next section and I'm just going to leave it out, so I'm not really cut it at all. Then I'll take my next section and again I will connect this over to this side. I'M just going to connect all the one side. There'S many many different ways to share channeling originally comes from the late seventies and the eighties. It was a little bit more obvious in the 80s it was orange and black and one side absolutely one ounce of cutting every other section. What this is going to do is it's going to give tensions and in curry had to me it just gives a few little spaces, but curly had to breathe, because curly hair tends to stick to each other and curl around so channeling curly had allowed that just Degrees allows it a little bit of short and long and some space - that's all I'm doing yes great, and so I'm just kind of feeling the I hope I do have a connection from that side. Obviously the type you're gon na keep the low you go. The less you'll keep so I'm leaving these pieces of hair out completely now, because I'm going diagonally that way, the shorter hair is gon na push the longer hair across. So I will get a directional push from this side across that side. Now, if you can, I wonder where that head the opposite way as well, that you can do exactly the same thing over again from right. This is great on guys, hair as well too, but guys was thinking, wait curly now again, when it sticks together space to breathe. You see a lot of people doing this type of thing, but freehand right. This is gon na do is leave me some longer hands and density, but it's just gon na allow it to breathe a little bit more sorry, I'm talking about. Do you have some other questions? We just have awesome hellos from Christopher Leone, James hi, Christopher hi, James Christopher's gon na be here a thrive soon. He'S gon na be here in a couple of weeks very exciting. All the way from give me a second Raleigh, yes got it. Do you know what I'd really like to do in here as well? If I had the time, I don't have the time to set it properly, but I would do like take a wave on here. Do not I mean and sit under the dryer and all of that business bit of Fashion Week in there, so I kind of get that vibe going on, but obviously you guys be extremely bored. Stop watching that drive for three hours. Oh yeah, I can't wait to see you it's gon na, be amazing, okay, so what I'm gon na do now is I'm going to go back through and I'm going to cut the long pieces right. So I went through this way and I cut along. So basically, what I'm going to do now is actually through the hair, so I'm just gon na come through with vertical sections and dress those longer pieces of hair and push and over-direct that hair across almost do a new guy or a new level. So I know this is a very interesting thing. That'S been happening recently, but I actually love doing color. I love to design. It became a once because way back then amazing, it's gon na be amazing anyway back, Oh, so I've just been let in that back area. Dryer so that I can go back around and do the outline just a little bit back area. Okay, so back to the back area is almost dry now. Obviously many many different options that we can do here. You can a hundred percent go in press it down and go in and really kind of carve in something strong through there. You could go in and keep it really loose and PC and raw honestly there's no right or wrong, as I go believe in that. I think it depends on suitability, doesn't it your client, your hairline, I'm pressing this down again on purpose, I never press down and out. I do I'm doing this on purpose because I wanted to spring up so you know strong. It has a softer quality to it and again, obviously so just take that arrow again, you can totally use a trimmer. Whatever you want is just something that I you know you can leave something long in that middle area. If you would like to - and this is your opportunity to design and do something for that clients network now, if someone has a you know a nice neckline, you want to show it often who got hired to show it up. If you've got someone who maybe wants a little more coverage on their profile, then you would keep it lower. You know I'm just spoiled with models like Mandy, because she has a great hairline. Her hair is really nice to cut. We could leave that long bit as well right braid, it put some beads in it. What do you think he's taking that fluffy stuff up again, no one's saying you have to do this. You might prefer to do something softer. That'S all think, once you know how to cut hair like you know how to color hair, then you have no choice, so it just gives you more opportunities to be able to do more. Not just do the same three hair coming back through doing a bit more freehand. Now, as the hair is drying as the hair is drying, I'm looking more at the silhouette, and so you can't start to come in and do it freehand, I'm looking at the dark and the light. So I can go ahead and just use the point of my scissors just to blend a bit of that we have a question from Vicki Perez. Oh, I love Vicki, ivy she's asking. How do you did personally determine those longer lengths like how do you want to leave them on the top she didn't say, but I would have sent up shoes. So if you turn about the top Vicki, the disconnections on the top area are really decided by. What do you want it to look like at the end right? Do you want to have longer hair? It'S not anything more than that. So if you want it long in the front, you could go sleep with your eyeball. If you wanted it to be shorter in the front, then you could follow the head, but I do need to dry this front area a little bit I'll put a little bit of shine on key thing with PC product time. You need to make sure that you comb it through and you also need to style it properly as well. Don'T fluff the hair, I'm using the palms of my hands, get that product and make sure you get all of the frizzy areas and then again with a tight comb. What I'm doing is I'm gon na go through and actually curl the hair down put it into place, make it sit down. How I wanted to this has been bleached today, so you will find, and you can see the disconnection to there. You will find that it wants to be a bit frizzy. It wants to be a bit bigger, so I'm going through I'm combing the product through again, you could go through and do some twisting right so make the hair a bit more finished, make it less frizzy. If that's what the cuticle needs, so that's a really good thing to do is to comb it through and then actually set it. But the key thing to me is to stop it being so. Frizzy is to seal the cuticle by combing through the product. Sometimes I'm Cody how you feel, like I'm coming the curl out, but he springs back up, but with a good finish, you know I mean what kind of tree you know. I used the shine yeah again just so I don't want to get into a huge blow-dry. I'M going to diffuse a little bit, so I hope you guys really dodged me for a second, because I want to get it finished a bit nicer for you all. I think this kind of a like a 90s trend in at the moment, obviously in fashion and stuff, if you look at hair in the 90s, people went very natural. A lot of disconnection people were very concerned about what they were putting on their hand. It was a little bit grungy right, so we're seeing that obviously a lot in fashion, but also in hair at the moment - and there was a lot of simple haircuts - I'm just you can see again my disconnections through here and don't be always like you're making everything Match everything doesn't have to balance. Every piece of habits have to be the same, especially on Cody. Try not to scrunch it too much. If you want to actually touch the hair, then you can hold it but hold it tight with your fingertips, but not there's nothing. We have some what I'm Thank You Jenny. What I've done is I'm driving with a diffuser now, because I'm just on here and do it a bit more editorial even in the salon. This is a white hub, diffuser back it's titanium and the bottom of it is really really amazing because it doesn't let a lot it doesn't that a lot of air through, but it's so diffused, isn't it that you can actually put it on like high-speed. Oh hello Wayne Woodruff, my good friend, so I'm reading to just kind of a bit focus. Matt Cody had that's not done right now. Okay, so just doing a little bit Esper a firm hold hairspray still want to do too much to it. To be honest with you, I kind of just like it doesn't need to be overdone. The shape is already there. The graduation is satiny. I have some longer and shorter pieces on here, so I'm just really liking what it looks like do you like her outfit? She just plain says, looks great he's loving it. We specialize in. We have an amazing hair show coming up. This lineup is absolutely out of this world, from photography to color, to styling, to haircutting social media, everything so thrive, sections you've got to thrive, sections calm or you can also go to. What did we do here? We did some very classy. Graduation actually started it in the middle of the head, not in the knee. I took diagonal vertical diagonal sections from this back into the front. I then went back down into the nape and sat it in in there very simply worked into the top triangle. I cut from short to long. I did some channels, so I cut one left, one out cut one left one out and then I also went back into the longer pieces. This connections, even though they've done technically, do enough for me. So I think everyone we knew yet