Great Tips For Cut Long Hair | Layered Hair Cutting Techniques | How To Cut Long Bangs

Okay, before we jump right into the haircut, i am going to talk about body, positioning and shear positioning for a minute. So body positioning is really important and i don't think we think about it enough, because we want our haircuts to be nice and strong and straight and just really good lines. But how can we do that? If our body is not angled correctly, so our body needs to be straight for the haircut to come out straight. So being straight means, you know legs shoulder width apart shoulders. You know nice and aligned back straight and then working within your strike zone. So if you know baseball, your strike zone is between your shoulders and your hips, and this is where your body is straight, going anything above that you're, starting to twist your back and losing how straight the hair is, give me a thumbs up if that makes sense To you guys, okay, like i said, working in the strike zone, keeping our body nice and straight with our feet and our shoulders completely aligned and also working directly behind our section which we'll talk about when we get into the haircut and then shear positioning. We all know you know hold it like that, but then also you know when you're cutting the hair, are you going to be cutting point, cutting cutting back? You know just kind of focusing on that we'll go into that a little more when we start the haircut, but mostly right now, it's the body positioning that i'm worrying about another thing with shears i like to wrap it under my pinky and hold it like this. When i'm not using my shears, because then it gets out of my way - and i have the rest of my hand to work with all right, give me a thumbs up or a heart. If that's making sense to you guys, okay, all right! Let'S go ahead and head into our haircut, i'm just going to turn michelle a little bit so connor. Just kind of follow me around perfect. So can you scoot back just a little make sure we get everything in here so for this layering technique? I start in the back and i don't actually set a guide on top because her head is my guide. I don't want to set a guide up here and then drop it down, because i'm not sure what her head shape is at that point. So i want to actually start from the bottom up if that makes sense, so i already set my perimeter i'm going to take one about an inch width section in the back, drawing it straight down. That'S why i have long nails, because i can section without a comb, it's fantastic and then, like i said we're talking about calming today too, so see how that hair is all nice and straight that's what we need every haircut. Every section has to be nice and perfectly straight if it's not keep combing comb from both sides - no bends here, so normally we elevate the hair up and cut it like. So today we are actually going to over direct the hair directly across from where it naturally lays so i'm combing directly across from what, naturally, is what that looks like you're pulling it completely straight out, so see how we have this massive corner here. That'S what we're taking off and then it's completely straight straight line off of her head. My fingers are completely parallel or straight down to the ground, and that's how i know the section is correct, because when i over direct it back after cutting it kind of follow, my fingers see it's going to have that nice harsh angle, and it's going to fall Down beautifully so let's go ahead and cut this section out again, taking a one inch width, section, combing, both sides roots to ends really getting that in there. I had one of my mentors one time when i was doing hair cutting. She came up to me during a class and she said you cut hair really well, but your combing sucks, so your haircut's gon na suck and i took that to heart, and so now i focus heavily on my combing and then i'm gon na grab it from About an inch above grab behind the comb over direct it completely straight out from where it lays not bending here, not bending up completely straight fingers completely straight to the ground. My guide is right there. If you notice all the hair back here from the occipital fell out now i'm going to go in and point cut and point cutting. I tell all my new stylus, i'm training if you're point cutting at a completely straight in 90 to the hair 90 degrees to the hair, you're texturizing, if you're at a 45 you're cutting. So i'm gon na go and texturize that a little bit see. I have that nice broken up line, so it doesn't cause any lines or choppiness in the back. Then i'm gon na let it fall back and it creates a nice soft, beautiful tape. Layer in there you can kind of see it starting to work. We only have one inch section, so obviously we're not going to see a lot. So i'm going to take that section hold it straight out from the head. There'S my corner, correct, connecting my length to my layer point cutting that corner at a 90.. So i'm more texturizing as opposed to taking out length there. Michelle does have a finer texture of hair, so i would like to leave some in there, so it doesn't look like she lost density through her ends, and then i just lay that down. You can kind of see we're starting to build a little bit of a layer in there. Now i'm going to take my next section again an inch width right next to the text section. We just took i'm not going to go farther than this yet because i don't want to work in her conversion points. So that is, you know right behind the ear right where the hairline shifts back. Here, that's going to be right where our conversion point is because that's where the hair line is changing and when the head is rounding. So i don't want to go in there, because if i took a vertical section through this, i'm cutting off her perimeter. And if i cut this section wrong, i'm creating a hole in my hair cut, so i want to leave that out for now. I don't want to touch any of that perimeter, so i can leave all of her density and not create any holes so again, combing from the roots to the ends directing it up. As i comb putting my fingers behind the comb. Sorry got to get comfortable my hand and then going out directly from where it lives. So if you look, i'm actually going across the top of her head now at a diagonal because that's where her hair lives, it's going to fall directly back and then come back up here. And i took a little bit of a section from my last section and i can see my guide right here. My guide right here and i'm going to point cut in point cutting closer to a 40, so i'm actually tanking length getting some of that hair. Out of there right, there looks a little heavy, i'm just going to go in and texturize that since i'm already here so i don't have to later then direct it back down and see a little bit of that layer that it's creating right there. How it's a nice beautiful movement down? That'S because this is based on her head shape so pulling out a 180 like that the hair is falling directly out of her head shape and making it. So it's a perfect smooth transition down, creating that beautiful movement. We'Re looking for like i said this is not a haircut where it's like a shag, anything with nice defined layers. This is really soft, subtle movement. So here's our corner, there's our layer. There'S our length point cutting at a 90 to leave some of her density through here because, like i said earlier, she does have a finer texture, so we want to make sure we preserve as much density through her ends as possible. Okay, so see we have this section right here done see how it just has a little more movement. You can see a little bit of that layer in there. It'S really soft and subtle. We don't want anything too drastic, just nice and subtle, so we're gon na. Do the same thing on the other side of the middle, so the right side of the middle now did the left side now we're doing the right. So i'm not going to her conversion point leaving that out taking a small bit from the middle section, combing locking it up with the comb. If i were to grab it down here and then just pull it see, i have a big dip right here: yep big dip right there don't want that. That'S going to create an uneven cut, i'm going to come up comb it and walk it up with my comb. Then i'm going to come in my fingers direct directly across from where it lays so we're making a diagonal across the top of the head. You can see my guide poking through there point cutting out of 45 and then texturizing at a 90., directing it back down, picking up the same exact section like we did before and then point cutting out that corner. So there is a beautiful seamless blend point cutting out of 90 to maintain her density and there we go so now we have the back done, of course, not to the conversion points, but you can see. We just have some nice movement in there. So when she curls it, it's going to be really like noticeable, but straight it's not going to look like there's layers in it because she doesn't want anything drastic. She just wants some movement through the ends. Okay, now we're gon na start on the sides. So i'm gon na take a one inch section like we have been directly above her ear and now i'm going to walk to the other side. So with this body, positioning is important because i'm going to be on the other side of her at all times, i'm actually going to come around on when i'm working on my clients right side. I stand directly in front of them because i want my fingers pointed towards the floor. I don't want them pointing upwards. I want towards the floor, so it's a little awkward, sometimes, but that's okay, because she's getting a great haircut out of it right. Michelle yeah, good! Okay, so going directly across from where the hair lives hair pointed down, my legs are shoulder width apart shoulders, as straight as they can be when i'm standing in front of a client and then a point cut at a 45 and texture is at a 90. awesome. Do we have any questions connor coming in no questions perfect, you guys do have any questions, don't be afraid to leave them in the comments, be glad to answer anything and then the sides, because they're thinner, we have a very subtle corner, i'm just taking the very Tips off i'm still leaving a corner, i'm just taking the tips off, so it's a little more blended but again leaving that corner for her density. Okay! Now here's where we're going to connect the sides to the back, so the hairline lives on an angle. He looked there, you know it's a diagonal back, so i want to take it very similar, my section similar to the hairline uh perimeter, so i'm going to come in the middle of the back in the middle of the side and create a triangle over the conversion. Point so the point of the triangle is about an inch up from the perimeter on all ends, so the perimeter under here is protected and at the very base of the nape it's protected as well, and this line is pretty closely mimicking. The natural line of her hairline so a reason i took thank you for all the good yeah, thanks friendly, i'm assuming that's uh, my co-worker brinley yeah. Thank you friendly's great. She just graduated from being an assistant in our salon. She was my assistant for three months. I think so she knows this haircut inside and out. Okay. So now we have our section. Our nice triangle same thing: i'm gon na pull it directly over across from where it lives. So it's a great diagonal. Now here's my guide, here's my perimeter! Here'S my guide! Point cut out of 45 texturize at 90., okay, so through here, because this is probably the thickest section on the head, it is going to probably have a corner through right here. You can see it's still a little heavy right there. When i move it, it has a little less movement just right here, which is normal. So now i'm just going to do one last section directly over the conversion point making sure i don't drop have any of my hairline. This will fall out when i pick it up comb it up straight from where the head the hair lives on the head. There'S my corner point cut it out. I went a little bit heavier on the point cut in the conversion point, because that hair is thicker. So it needs a little more blending than it would otherwise. Okay, there's some awesome movement in there. You can see the layers popping out, because the way i colored her hair, where she has a bit of a shadow box under here, it makes the layers a little more defined, which is awesome because it just gives her color more dimension and more movement as well. Okay, let's move back to the sides, so we already got from the middle of the side back connected now we're going to do the top part of the side front part of the side, if you will so normally we'd think to pick up that whole section. But i don't want to because she has a recession, like everyone. Does it's normal to have this recession right there in the hairline and same thing as with our perimeter back here. I don't want to cut into this because i'm going to create a hole right around her face, so i'm going to drop that out and we will come back and connect it later later with a new technique. I'M going to leave that completely alone, and just do this a little bit. There won't be a lot to cut off because it is such a small section, but it's important so standing directly in front feet. Shoulder width apart shoulders, aligned, combing well pulling it directly over and there's my guide same guide there guide there, it's very small, some people. It will be a larger guide than others just depending on their head shape, so these sections will change size slightly depending on their head. Everyone has a different size head, so the sections are going to be different sizes because we are working based on head shape. So i'm gon na pull out that section again that we did not cut and then i'm gon na connect that corner here's a tiny baby, one right there just take that off nice and easy. So we have some beautiful layers happening through the side now, but it's still heavy in front, which is okay, because we'll connect that in a minute we're gon na do the other side and then do her curtain bangs and then connect the layers in. I always cut the perimeter first. What'S up so we have a couple comments: cool yeah. That says amazing tips. Thank you, courtney and we have a question yeah. So christine greer is asking. If the client wants to see more of the layers instead of invisible, can you tweak it to crest to create a heavier layered? Look! Yes! Yes, you can. You can always take these and make them your own. If i want a heavier layer, look i'm actually going to set my guide in the very beginning. Where now i'm not working with a guide, i would set my guide in very beginning up top like a traditional layer and then do this section. So if i set a guide in first, i would have a guide. You know say i wanted this short sorry wand about there. Then i would see my guide and cut it there and then connect it back around. So give you a little bit heavier layer because you're taking more off okay, so i'm going to pull it back around like i was doing straight across from where it lives. There'S my guide there we go point cutting out of 45 to take length. Okay, there's that tiny corner we're just gon na cut and real quick, i'm just gon na check that it's even on both sides a little bit shorter, that's okay! So i just connected that. Normally i pick up a guy from the other side. I just kind of forgot today, which is fine, because we can just go back and set our guide and then do it again and take it back around there's my guide right under there you can kind of see it's a small one, just gon na put that Back in and then check my corner again, take it off. Okay, now middle of the side middle of the back, creating a triangle over the conversion point. So we've got a question yes, stephane kravitz is asking. Would that layering technique still work on like a lob length, or would you use another technique um? It would work on a lob length, you're just going to get very subtle layers, and the only difference is when you're connecting this front to the back. You want to be careful not to lose length in the front, because the lob is typically longer in the front. So what i would do is i'd create this section as i have it now, but instead of combing from both directions, i would actually just comb from the back like this and then connect it nearly all the way to the back middle of the back. That way. You'Re over directing to keep your legs in the front - and you already have your guide set in the front, so you can see it when it's back here, so you're, pretty safe and not taking off more length, but just over directing it for extra protection. For yourself to make sure you don't take too much, but yes, this looks good on nearly every length perfect. Does that make sense? So if you're cutting a lob directing it back to maintain your length in the front, but if you are not cutting a lob just do it directly over the where the hair lifts out of the head stick awesome great! I'M glad that helped. I hope you can use this layering technique. It'S one of my favorite. Everyone on my salon uses it so much it's like our go-to okay, so conor come around this way around the front of michelle. If you can thank you, so you can see it's laying over. But then, if you look at our guide here, you can kind of see how it gets thinner. That'S my guide! All in there those little hairs peeking through there's my guide. There we go and i'm going to texturize at a 90. okay direct it back. Let it lay down connor come over here. If you can, so we can look at this, so we're going to check it. I always check my layers by honestly just kind of wiggling them and seeing the movement in the layers, so it still looks a little heavy right there, i'm not getting the movement. I want to see i'm going to take a one inch section directly over that part. Making sure i leave the perimeter out, so i don't affect that, pulling it up directly straight out from where the head the hair lives on the head. There we go, there's my corner and again on the conversion point i'm actually cutting a little more off the corner than i would anywhere else, because the conversion point is the thickest part of the hair. So we have another question from courtney beck she asks. Is this a good technique for curly hair? Yes, i love this technique for textured hair. That'S actually one way i developed this technique. I have a co-worker who specializes in curly hair and i came up with this technique and had her test on myself, because i have curly hair when i decided to wear it that way, and then it worked fantastically and she helped me kind of develop it to Make sure it worked for textured hair, so, yes, i do recommend always cutting it dry, though. So if you are doing it on textured hair have them come in with clean dry hair, the way they normally style it, so you can see and cut it that way and then wash it and check it after okay. So now we're going to do this front section again we're dropping out the perimeter on the front still a little thin right there, so i'm actually going to take more off to leave out, because i really want to maintain all the density i can, through the front Of her hair, so now that i have my section, i'm going to come around standing behind my layer with my fingers pointed towards the ground. Remember you want your fingers towards the ground, just a tiny bit to take off, because that was really small section. I'M gon na pick it up again just check the corner. I don't think there will be one right here, but just in case there is oh yeah, just a tiny one. There we go okay. So we have another question. Yes from brenda's eagle. She has what brand of shears do you use and do you use different shoes for different types of cutting? Yes, that's a fantastic question, brenda right, yes, brenda! So i am using right now my samvia artistic series shears. I really love these because it has a bit longer of a blade and then they're more ergonomic for the hand, so they don't stretch my hand too far out of position. I also have some joel's i'll use. Those are my original shears out of school. My joels are, i can grab them out and show them to you real quick. I use these for more of my dry cutting for the most part, so these are my texturizers they're joel's, and then these are my original, joel shears that i'll use. Sometimes i use these more when i'm doing dry cutting or if someone has really coarse, hair dry cutting, because the coarseness can kind of hurt the blade a little bit. So since these are a little bit older, i'll use those and then go in and use these on, wet hair, michelle has a very fine texture of hair. So it's really not going to hurt my blade any, especially with all the smoothing products i put in so i like these and because they're longer so they can get layers a little bit easier. So i prefer uh longer shears when i'm doing layers. Okay. So let's get a full view of this head, so all the layers are done. We'Re just need to connect the layers to the front after we cut our curtain banks. So looking beautiful, it's a nice lovely movement. You can tell when she curls it. It'S really going to pop. Yes, oh good, i'm glad that helped brenda okay! So now i'm gon na part out for bangs. So how i like to do this is where the comb lifts off the head is where i like to put the bangs another trick. I like to do is right here, where the ear meets the skin put the base. My comb there roll the hair up the comb up, not the hair. Sorry, can you see that again, yep? Absolutely some put the comb at the where the ear and the skin meet on the side of the head and then roll the comb up the head. And then i just kind of drag it to create a section. And then i have it at the top here and connect it around to the corner of the eyebrow or the corner of the eye, usually they're the same points, but if their eyebrows are maybe a little shorter or longer go towards the corner of the eye. Typically, that hits right in the recession, which is what i want i'll connect it down after, but right now i just want it in that very top point to create my base. If you will for the bangs so then i have it on that side, i'm going to do the same thing on this side because, as we kind of talked about earlier head shapes are all different and with that means they're actually not even so, you may clients Want the bane section to be even but based on their head shape. Sometimes it's not, and i usually like to go based off head shape because that's just what's going to fit their head best and if you don't go off head shape. This hair up here is still going to fall in every day and bug her, so i would say: trim it off anyways, unless the client doesn't want that. Okay, so now i have it all cooked back and we are going to set in her curtain banks. So michelle are you, okay with them being? You know about the bridge of your nose here at the shortest okay cool, go ahead and close your eyes for me, and then i want you to tilt your head up slightly perfect. I always have my clients close their eyes because some clients like to raise their eyebrows and look at what they're doing so like raise your their eyebrows to try and see and like they're, going like this and then you take them shorter. So i always like starting longer or starting with their eyes closed, so they don't do that. I'M going to take a small section, just right in the very middle, to set my guide combing from either side pulling it directly down it's a little more off center than i want there. We go same thing calming okay. Now what i'm going to do is. I have it here, i'm actually going to let go so i have no tension on it, so i can see how her palettes are falling, because if i pull it like this and pop up, it's gon na go much shorter, so i'm just letting go and then Twisting okay and then i'm just twisting grabbing with my right hand, my cutting hand gon na put my fingers directly on her nose where i want to be come in, with my left hand, grab it and then continue the twist. So it's a full 360.. What was that 180. 180.? Is it yeah 180. sorry either way, and then i'm going to point cut all of that. The twisting kind of helps give it a nice softer, look and start the angle of descent down. So now that i have my guide set in i'm going to take one side and i'm going to comb it directly in front of her nose so i'll do it again, i'm going to comb it directly in front of her nose and hold my fingers completely parallel To the ground, then i'm going to come in behind my fingers at the guide and slide cut down there. We go and i'm gon na do same on the other side, pulling it directly in front of the nose fingers parallel to the ground. But now i'm gon na touch my wrists together, so your wrists touch together come in behind, find your guide slide cut down and then i'm going to check to make sure it's, even because sometimes that could be a little difficult to get it even all right. We are looking good so now, i'm just going to make sure they're laying and how i want and the length is what i want so sometimes, when i do this, the length can be a little too long, so i'm going to come over here. If you will connor hold it from its natural point, where it will lay and just take this kind of tail off just because it's a little too much and then do the same on the other side and then we'll connect it in and connect it to our Layers, okay, coming in behind i'm just gon na slide, pat that tail off there we go okay, let the hair down. So we want the banks to be pretty prominent, but we still - i don't love the disconnection between there. So i'm going to do is take the point right in front of the ears straight down. So now it's connecting where we started up here. Just all the way down, i'm going to hold it out. Excuse me connor. I will patch it there we go. Remember we always got to be directly in front of what we're cutting not to the side, because then it's going to change our body positioning and change how straight the hair is. So i don't want to do a huge slight cut on this, because i don't want to connect it too much, i'm just going to very lightly take off whatever comes so. It'S very subtle just to blend it in a little bit and then we'll continue blending this in in a minute i'm going to do the same. On the other side, though so i'm going to walk around so at this point, where it is where we parted it. For the bangs go completely straight down, so you'll land right in front of the ear and then just kind of slide cut that off make it more subtle there. We go so now, they're, just a little bit more blended, so they're, not such a harsh disconnection. Okay, now we're going to do our final technique on both sides to connect our layer that we created back here into our curtain. Banks, because right through here, there's a lot of density that i don't want. So this i call my three-point triangle: technique kind of a long name. I just came up with it, so i'm gon na start on the top of her head. I'M gon na go about a quarter of the way back, which is typically where the banks start. Typically, everyone's head's gon na be a little different. I'M gon na go about quarter the way back and to make a triangle going to the middle of the eyebrow. So it's a very small triangle and then i'm gon na hold it directly up from where the head lays. Then, if you look closely, i have two guides in there. I have one here and one down here: that's falling out, so i'm just gon na gently point cut that to connect my layers. This is also texturizing, the bangs so they're, not so heavy, and then my next section is going to be directly in the middle of the part, so between the front of the hairline and the crown right in the middle to the corner of the eyebrow. There'S the corner of the eyebrow there we go same thing directly out from where the head lays, and now you can see the real disconnection starting because my guide's all the way up here and my guides all the way there. So now i'm gon na come in and slide cut that out and connect my guides, and you can see we're starting to lose that density in there, but still maintain all our length and create a beautiful layer going back a nice like sweeping layer. So we still have a little bit of density right here, so our last point is going to be at the crown to the corner of the hairline. What the corner of the hairline means. It'S where the hairline changes from being the front of the head to right around the ear so right at this corner. So you can see we're creating a triangle, our part and then down to the corner of the hairline doing the same as before. Combing it straight out from where it lives. There'S my corner right there, because all my guide fell out, so i could slide cut it. I chose to point cut because i had a little bit more control of point cutting. So that's the route i went right here feels a little heavy to me, so i'm just going to go in and texturize and take out some of that density and you can see we created a beautiful, sweeping layer that connected all of the hair together, but we Kept all of her density and all of the movement in there that we wanted, while still having that curtain, bang, which we'll style up later i'll post pictures of it completely curled and styled on instagram and my instagram handle, is a y hair, dot stylist. So a y hair dot stylist, if you want to see any of the colors i've created and then the results from this haircut as well. Okay, so we're going to come over to the other side and then do the exact same thing. So it's going to be about quarter of the way back. Our deciding factors are going to be the front of the hairline and the crown so about a quarter of the way back to middle of the eyebrow combing, the hair out directly from where it lives on the head. There'S my guide there's my guide. I'M just going to point cut that out again my deciding factor between point cutting and slide cutting is just what i feel i'll have the most control doing. Then i'm gon na go middle of the way back between the hairline and the crown middle of the way back to corner of the eyebrow and here's where we're really gon na start. Seeing some you know differences, so i have my guide there and then my guides. All the way up here, so it's a pretty quick concession since i'm on my non-dominant side, i'm going to hold the hair a certain way so i'm holding it like, i would and then i'm going to flip it back towards me. So my fingers are on the ground, so we start with our fingers in the air fingers back and then i'm gon na slide cut towards me to connect it. So it's the same as the other side. I just positioned it, so it was more comfortable to me and i had better control so i'll. Do it one more time to show you guys, because i know it's a little confusing at first so middle of the way back corner of the eyebrow hold it straight up from the head. You can see. We have much better um blending through there fingers up in the air fingers down. Point cut towards me slide that towards me. Okay, so now our last section is going to be at the crown to the corner of the hairline. That'S where the hairline changes from being above the ear to in front of the face, combing it directly out from where the hair lives on both sides roots to ends. Good calming is key. There'S that big old corner point cutting that out, i'm going to take the top of this section and i'm just point cutting at a 90 to texturize, because it just felt a little heavier than i wanted it to be. So i wasn't taking any length just point: cutting there we go some nice, beautiful layering connecting all the way back, giving her that beautiful, sweeping layering and movement that we want. Okay, brenda steele said. Thank you. I love this. I can't wait to try it. Oh good. I'M so excited, i hope all of you guys go home and try. This try on your clients, and even a good thing to do as well is take the technique of directing the hair over like if you decide this layer technique isn't for your client. At that moment, but they still have kind of a shelf up here, don't go in and try and texturize that out direct it over and if there's a corner, just snip that off and you're really going to get rid of a lot of that heaviness. So every piece of this technique can be used in different layerings, so my sectioning of doing one two three in the back and then one on each side and connecting over the conversion point. I do that, no matter what type of layers i'm doing just because it protects me from creating holes in the haircut and then i also do that three-point triangle technique, as i call it on every haircut as well, because again, it's just protecting me from creating holes In the haircut so like we went over today, you're going to comb really good roots to ends. Your body is going to be straight you're, going to have your feet, shoulder width apart shoulders, aligned you're going to work within your strike zone, so top of the strike zones at your shoulders. Bottoms of the strike zones at your hips not going to work otherwise and our chairs have these really cool things on them, where we can make them go up and down. So if they're too high or too low move it, they move to you a lot easier than you can move to them. Yes, again, my name is alyssa young, i'm a hair stylist based out of utah. I am a healing artist with lonza, and that is what i had to show you guys today. I'M really excited for all of you to go home and try it in the salon and just be able to get some really soft lovely movement out of this. If you'd like to see more from me, my instagram is ay hair dot stylist. You can also find me through the laundry facebook page and instagram. I have a couple things up on there and, of course we have our big event coming up in february. I hope you guys will all be there. We have some amazing classes from amazing artists, i'm so excited so get your tickets and i hope to see you guys all there soon. Thank you for tuning in bye,